210k 5.2L Durango

05Blazer · Oct 11, 2009

I was recently given a '98' 4wd Durango with a 5.2L. This car has had one owner who is a mechanic and has changed the oil every 3k miles with Maxlife blend. The truck is in decent condition with 200k miles on it and hey, it's free! I am well aware of the pickup screen clogging issues with this motor and was wondering about suggestions. The oil pressure seems okay. So if it's not broke, dont fix it? Should I flush it with some diesel and then drain and drop the pan & clean the screen? I would like to keep this vehicle running well as it would be a nice winter 4x4 to keep around and play with.

addyguy · Oct 12, 2009

If the guy really did 3k changes the whole life of this truck, there shouldn't be any sludge or bulidup issues.

If it's not broke, don't fix it! Just keep using Maxlife at 3-5k drains and enjoy the free truck!

FastSUV · Oct 12, 2009

MMO in crank case if sludged; otherwise as mentioned probably okay. I am not a Max-life fan but if you are gonna do 3k OCI then use whatever...it is a roller motor.

I like Pennzoil HM the best so far out of the HM oils...any leaks?

05Blazer · Oct 12, 2009

I have read numerous stories about people with receipts of 3k mile ocis and only like 50k original miles on these trucks with blown engines due to the pickup screen. The truck doesnt seem to leak oil anywhere at all. I may consider the pennzoil HM for its first change beings its only $12 at Walmart!

FastSUV · Oct 12, 2009

Well I ran Mobil-HM/Mobil-1 silver cap in my magnum V8 for 8 years...but since I do such a short OCI myself, I just decided to go back to dino or blend...I have some seeps too (not major leaks but enough to make me try dino)

I am experimenting right now, but I can tell you, 180k of Mobil-1 and I never had a pickup screen clog up...also, change the PCV valve at least once per year on that motor!

hounddog · Oct 12, 2009

Sludge is worse on those engines with a leaking inner plenum gasket.Its sludge and carbon thats in the pickup screen.To check for a leaking plenum,pull air cleaner off.Lay over throttle body.Open the throttle body plates and with a flashlight look down in it.If its got a wet oil buildup its leaking.If not its ok.There is a TSB on such.If it leaks it screws with the pcv system etc.If its sludged the oil psi goes HIGHER before it craters like at highway speeds.Had a tech who use to cut the baffle off the dinky pickup screen to allow a little more pickup.The REAL way to clean one of those motors is if pan off,pull valve covers,clean them and top of heads and flush the mess straight through to a catch tray.Even better is with intake pulled for resealing and same deal.At least is pull pan,pull pickup screen and soak it in old fashioned brown carb cleaner.Looks like new after overnight.

ac_tc · Oct 12, 2009

-98 Durango 5.9/4*4 andi use 10w-40 hdeo (syn)/ and 3k oci´s and my engine is very clean inside. It is used as a horsetower and fire alert truck so i think its severe service for it...
Mine also has this leaking bellypan and im gonna fix it when i have the time.

05Blazer · Oct 12, 2009

I was thinking of either continuing to use the 5W30 Maxlife the previous owner has been using or bump up to 10w40 Maxlife. I am also contemplating 5W40 Rotella Synthetic.

FastSUV · Oct 12, 2009

Originally Posted By: 05Blazer
I was thinking of either continuing to use the 5W30 Maxlife the previous owner has been using or bump up to 10w40 Maxlife. I am also contemplating 5W40 Rotella Synthetic.

I am not a Valvoline man, but Max-life seems to get good numbers so if you keep it, I'd run the 10w30 at least in the warmer months.

JT1 · Oct 12, 2009

No reason to deviate from the maxlife.

It really is good stuff, provided you don't have any of the aforementioned oil screen/pickup problems I can't see why you shouldn't be able to get another 100k out of her.

Chris142 · Oct 12, 2009

Another problem that causes sludge on the 5.2 and 5.9 is the timing cover gasket. Some of the water pump bolts also hold the timing cover to the block and ocasionally when a wp gets changed the gasket gets torn or otherwise damaged which will let coolant into the oil.

Replacing the timing cover gasket is pretty easy.

FastSUV · Oct 12, 2009

Originally Posted By: Chris142
Another problem that causes sludge on the 5.2 and 5.9 is the timing cover gasket. Some of the water pump bolts also hold the timing cover to the block and ocasionally when a wp gets changed the gasket gets torn or otherwise damaged which will let coolant into the oil.

Replacing the timing cover gasket is pretty easy.

I assume oil would be milky if this was the case? I changed my WP last year but oil has looked good.

ac_tc · Oct 13, 2009

It´ll love Rotella.

FastSUV · Oct 13, 2009

Originally Posted By: ac_tc
It´ll love Rotella.

Or Mystik 10w30 too maybe

Hokiefyd · Oct 13, 2009

I've run the Rotella 10w30 in my 5.2L, but even on that oil, I could tell a difference in engine power. It felt a little more sluggish. I've run 5w30 MaxLife and it seemed to like that the best.

FastSUV · Oct 13, 2009

Originally Posted By: Jason Adcock
I've run the Rotella 10w30 in my 5.2L, but even on that oil, I could tell a difference in engine power. It felt a little more sluggish. I've run 5w30 MaxLife and it seemed to like that the best.

well i could tell a sluggishnesss on 10w30 max-life in the 4.0L...maybe the moly or thicker base oil? Anyway, I guess on my magnum I will take sluggish Mystik if it means the motor will last longer. Who knows...

Chris142 · Oct 13, 2009

Originally Posted By: FastSUV
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Another problem that causes sludge on the 5.2 and 5.9 is the timing cover gasket. Some of the water pump bolts also hold the timing cover to the block and ocasionally when a wp gets changed the gasket gets torn or otherwise damaged which will let coolant into the oil.

Replacing the timing cover gasket is pretty easy.

I assume oil would be milky if this was the case? I changed my WP last year but oil has looked good.
Not necessarily. It takes quite a bit of coolant to turn the oil milky.

FastSUV · Oct 13, 2009

Originally Posted By: Chris142
Originally Posted By: FastSUV
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Another problem that causes sludge on the 5.2 and 5.9 is the timing cover gasket. Some of the water pump bolts also hold the timing cover to the block and ocasionally when a wp gets changed the gasket gets torn or otherwise damaged which will let coolant into the oil.

Replacing the timing cover gasket is pretty easy.

I assume oil would be milky if this was the case? I changed my WP last year but oil has looked good.
Not necessarily. It takes quite a bit of coolant to turn the oil milky.

so do you lose pressure then or what??? How could you know>?

ac_tc · Oct 14, 2009

If you go the HDEO route keep an eye on clour of the oil.
If it turns black fast change it out since it has dissolved alot of sludge. This has happend to me every time ive changed to hdeo and it has always calmed down after the first change. I dont belive the ones that say that these engines react to oil viscisity in a manner wich you can feel in your pants- ok maybe in the wallet pocket of your pants if you go with a expensive oil. HDEO arent expensive if you buy it in a 5 gallon bucket.
I use 10w-40 hdeo in everything...

05Blazer · Oct 14, 2009

Is the Rotella 5W40 Synthetic considered a true HDEO? Would I be better off with a different one? I would use the 15W40, but the truck isnt garaged and I am nearing Chicago winter. I plan on doin a 1-3k mile OCI with a good cleaning HDEO oil and then moving back to maxlife 10W40 or even Shell 15W40 in the Summer.

210k 5.2L Durango

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