20wt with highest HTHS

from what I know even the 30w redline makes doesn't hurt the cats,it more of a myth.its a serious company with super top notch products why would they sabotage their business by selling a product that do any sort of damage.

All of the white bottle products have zinc/Phos levels well beyond what's considered "acceptable" by the API for catalyst protection. That doesn't mean you are going to have catcon issues however, even if the engine does consume a fair bit of oil, it's simply a risk.
 
from what I know even the 30w redline makes doesn't hurt the cats,it more of a myth.its a serious company with super top notch products why would they sabotage their business by selling a product that do any sort of damage.


It’s not a myth. The point that was made above is that if the engine is burning oil and allowing that to go to the cats then it’s a problem. If your engine doesn’t burn then there is no problem.
 
It's not like the higher levels of zinc/phosphorus will make the catalyst fail instantly but I think the problem is more that it can shorten the lifespan of the cat. I'm sure the difference is more noticeable in a laboratory setting or in a large fleets setting with cars that are driven tons of miles and are kept until they become uneconomical to repair.
 
Did you have any catalytic converter issues given the higher ZDDP content of redline?
ZDDP wasnt the issue,its phosphorus. My original converter pooped out at 270,000 miles.I was revving it too so of course the consumption will be up but that was mostly my doing.I keep forgetting that there are low tension piston rings in here to maximize economy. I have learned that the better oils with high AW do better on non ethanol fuel. Luckily it makes the car warm up a bit sooner and run slightly hotter which may explain getting a more complete burn and less residue on emission sensors. I was sent this article (https://itstillruns.com/effects-ethanol-catalytic-converter-12172217.html) and during my time of running redline oil I followed this thinking/explanation and when my converter did a P0420 at 270K the tech laughed and said that whatever I used in oil,fuel,etc had given this part a long and healthy life. He noted that most dont last anywhere as long.
 
ZDDP wasnt the issue,its phosphorus. My original converter pooped out at 270,000 miles.I was revving it too so of course the consumption will be up but that was mostly my doing.I keep forgetting that there are low tension piston rings in here to maximize economy. I have learned that the better oils with high AW do better on non ethanol fuel. Luckily it makes the car warm up a bit sooner and run slightly hotter which may explain getting a more complete burn and less residue on emission sensors. I was sent this article and during my time of running redline oil I followed this thinking/explanation and when my converter did a P0420 at 270K the tech laughed and said that whatever I used in oil,fuel,etc had given this part a long and healthy life. He noted that most dont last anywhere as long.
What does the P in ZDDP stand for?
 
2.94 HTHS 5W20 and the other numbers are quite good. Achieves its HTHS by using better base oils like Red Line versus VI in the add pack. Pricey, Red Line or Driven in the same ball park. The move to 5W30 is a good suggestion is you are just wanting a better shear resistant oil.
 
I would think just add 1 quart of 0W-30 or 5W-30 to the rest of the 0W-20 or 5W-20 you are currently running.

That should get you pretty close.
Or add 2 quarts.
 
Just want to get the thickest 20wt possible. Unless there isn’t a significant difference between say a 2.6hths 20wt and 2.9hths 20wt.

xW-30 is the thickest xW-20 possible 😁 - This is 2020 after all. Heck, xW-20 and xW-30 oils could have all been replaced with one viscosity. My vote would have been 0W-30 like Mobil 1 AFE 0W-30 (but with a lower pour point). Taking shearing and temporary shearing into account, one motor oil could have been used for all gasoline engines today (within reason).

Anyway, my opinions aside, here you go: https://www.redlineoil.com/5w20-motor-oil

I know you mentioned Red Line as well, but I'm here to tell you that you won't find another 5W-20 with such high HTHS. This is because Red Line is not API licensed so they don't have to follow their guidelines when it comes to additive limits and formulation viscosity.
 
xW-30 is the thickest xW-20 possible 😁 - This is 2020 after all. Heck, xW-20 and xW-30 oils could have all been replaced with one viscosity. My vote would have been 0W-30 like Mobil 1 AFE 0W-30 (but with a lower pour point). Taking shearing and temporary shearing into account, one motor oil could have been used for all gasoline engines today (within reason).

Anyway, my opinions aside, here you go: https://www.redlineoil.com/5w20-motor-oil

I know you mentioned Red Line as well, but I'm here to tell you that you won't find another 5W-20 with such high HTHS. This is because Red Line is not API licensed so they don't have to follow their guidelines when it comes to additive limits and formulation viscosity.

I thought they already made universal oil.
Mobil 1 ESP 0W-40.
 
I know you mentioned Red Line as well, but I'm here to tell you that you won't find another 5W-20 with such high HTHS. This is because Red Line is not API licensed so they don't have to follow their guidelines when it comes to additive limits and formulation viscosity.
Doesn't the Redline product meet the HTHS requirements for an API 0W-20?
 
Doesn't the Redline product meet the HTHS requirements for an API 0W-20?

Probably even exceeds them ;) :ROFLMAO:

What's the application you're looking to use such motor oil for? Do you have an oil cooler?
 
I thought they already made universal oil.
Mobil 1 ESP 0W-40.

Yes, I use Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 which is the exact same thing with a touch more ZDDP and a lot more Calcium.

[Edit]

Doing my best to help the OP stay within his desired viscosity range. It would have been easy to just tell him to use a 0W-40 oil :D
 
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