2024 Lexus RX350 UOA - 782mi / TGMO 0W-20 782mi

Joined
Jan 2, 2024
Messages
23
First Oil Change post "Engine Break In" on a 2024 Lexus RX-350. Plan on doing a second oil change at the 1,500 mile mark (another 700ish miles after that), then at 3,000 and every 3,000 thereafter. This was using Factory Fill 0W-20 from Lexus/Toyota.

I noted the high silicon which I presume is from the break in process. Somewhat concerning on high Fuel Dilution. I recall when I changed the oil, I did smell a gasoline scent so I'll be monitoring this. I drove the vehicle about 30 min prior to this oil change and primarily run it on 25 min hauls twice a day (not really taking short trips with it)

1708485277755.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Why the UOA on a new engine?
Why not? Will be interesting to play with OCI's and track changes over time. Its relatively cheap ($25) and I'll likely only do 2-3 oil changes a year after the initial few. I only buy new vehicles and run them so I'd like to see if some of the efforts and initial OCI's are worth it. And tbh, I am glad I did after seeing Fuel Dilution as high as it is. I'd like to see it start settling out over the next OCI's.
 
Last edited:
Fuel is at the high level but just note that fuel doesn't always track with mileage. It may remain around 5% for thousands of miles but you'll not know for sure of course until more uoa. Silicon & other metal will continue to come down. I think you have a good plan for now.
 
Touché --- Lake was the reason I accelerated my initial oil change to 750ish from 3-5k as originally planned. Either way, I will never go 10k miles on oil like Lexus recommends.

I settled on 7500mile OCI for my 17 Outback but ran some OCI's to 10k and the UOA done show I could go longer. I'm a believer in early OCI to remove break-in but if I'm reading this correctly 750 miles and then again at 1500 miles? That doesn't make much sense to me. And the 3k OCI's don't quite dovetail with UOA's at least to my limited noodle.

Just me but if I had a Lexus and doing 3k OCI's I'd strongly question it. To me, even DI like the Ford Eco's are good to go with 5k OCI's using a quality synthetic oil and quality filter. What is it you expect the UOA's to show you with consistent 3k runs on the oil?
 
257 PPM Silicon
I'm a believer in early OCI to remove break-in but if I'm reading this correctly 750 miles and then again at 1500 miles? That doesn't make much sense to me. And the 3k OCI's don't quite dovetail with UOA's at least to my limited noodle.

The second quicker oil change is definitely to ensure the amounts of silicon are coming down which would be expected. Also I want to keep an eye on fuel dilution. I was a bit concerned with the gas smell when I changed my oil the first time. Oil changes are cheap enough on a $60k+ vehicle that I dont mind doing a few to make sure I am setting up for a long lasting "perfomance" engine. It equates to about $55 per change (about $30 for oil, filter, and gasket and $25 for lab test)

As to the every 3k this may be overkill and with UOA maybe I will extend the range a bit but thats all part of the "experiment". I plan to drive maybe 7-8k miles a year so this equates to 2 or 3 OCs a year which seems alright to me. Given the turbo having fresh oil seems to make sense to extend the life.
 
Fuel dilution should come down - the rings were forming the piston bores that first hour or so of driving.
I sense you are being a bit to over cautious, over zealous or maybe just a nervous nellie with your OCI plan. I would propose 2500 run next OC. Then settle into Winter /Spring OCI. Your engine has an oil filter - you are giving the turbo and insert bearings clean oil.

Keeping an eye on fuel dilution? What will you do if it its high again? Lexus won't do anything. I had to step up to a 10W30 on a DI engine spec'd for 20 grade - but I did so a bit too late. It clatters loudly when hot. Sounds like rod rap. You 25min "haul" is pretty close to short tripping.

I don't like the low KV 100. It will improve as fuel dilution and wear in stresses abate, but meanwhile you may want to boost your sump by substituting a quart or two of the 20 grade with a high HTHS ACEA A3,B4 lube MB or Porshe gasoline spec. You can't reverse pounded bearings once they have been pounded.
 
But is it primarily polyisloxane from RTV and some anti-foamant treat?
Is this an etched back Nikasil or Alusil block with no liners?
The fact you're questioning it is my point... It's an unknown variable that you or I can't tell so why risk not flushing it out? Your "senses" don't know what's actually in the oil but your telling OP to keep it in. That doesn't make any sense to me. 🤷‍♂️

Besides who wants extremely high amounts of this stuff floating around in their oil for thousands of miles if they can simply flush it out earlier. Your stance is, run this high amount of silicon debris through the engine & the OP is a nervous nellie b/c he's not doing that. I wholeheartedly disagree 100% & think the name calling is uncalled for. When there is a "Red Flag" on your UOA I'd imagine it's wise to remedy the issue if possible & in this situation you can by draining after a few hundred miles, then gradually increase the runs as it improves.
 
The fact you're questioning it is my point... It's an unknown variable that you or I can't tell so why risk not flushing it out? Your "senses" don't know what's actually in the oil but your telling OP to keep it in. That doesn't make any sense to me. 🤷‍♂️

Besides who wants extremely high amounts of this stuff floating around in their oil for thousands of miles if they can simply flush it out earlier. Your stance is, run this high amount of silicon debris through the engine & the OP is a nervous nellie b/c he's not doing that. I wholeheartedly disagree 100% & think the name calling is uncalled for. When there is a "Red Flag" on your UOA I'd imagine it's wise to remedy the issue if possible & in this situation you can by draining after a few hundred miles, then gradually increase the runs as it improves.
I appreciate this response. Clearly the silcon was not captured by the filter and if I listened to Lexus it would be in my oil for another 9000 miles (or listened to others at least anothet 2 to 4k miles) i am glad I flushed it out and start again with fresh. Also why I want to do another OC at 1500. Overkill, sure maybe, but why run high contaminations for thousands of miles if I can flush them out for $30 (plus an UOA) and 30 minutes of time.

As to being a nervous nellie I dont think thats the case. Overzealous is probably the best description. Just looking to take as best care of my purchase as possible. If spending a few hundred $ on accelerated OCs now saves me thousands down the line I guess its worth it. Problem is that we will never know given the variables.

I am pulling a lot of my thoughts on OCI from Lake's videos and I think with his credentials I trust what he has to say. And the UOA he presents shows the proof. To me he has nothing to gain from encouraging shorter OCIs but I do have somrthing to gain from short OCIs. I am honestly surprised with some of the responses on an oil forum of people that question why I change oil post break in and so often early on or why I even do a UOA on a brand new vehicle/engine. I appreciate the dialogue as we all gain from it but surprised to see so much of it.
 
Last edited:
I appreciate this response. Clearly the silcon was not captured by the filter and if I listened to Lexus it would be in my oil for another 9000 miles (or listened to others at least anothet 2 to 4k miles) i am glad I flushed it out and start again with fresh. Also why I want to do another OC at 1500. Overkill, sure maybe, but why run high contaminations for thousands of miles if I can flush them out for $30 (plus an UOA) and 30 minutes of time.

As to being a nervous nellie I dont think thats the case. Overzealous is probably the best description. Just looking to take as best care of my purchase as possible. If spending a few hundred $ on accelerated OCs now saves me thousands down the line I guess its worth it. Problem is that we will never know given the variables.

I am pulling a lot of my thoughts on OCI from Lake's videos and I think with his credentials I trust what he has to say. And the UOA he presents shows the proof. To me he has nothing to gain from encouraging shorter OCIs but I do have somrthing to gain from short OCIs. I am honestly surprised with some of the responses on an oil forum of people that question why I change oil post break in and so often early on or why I even do a UOA on a brand new vehicle/engine. I appreciate the dialogue as we all gain from it but surprised to see so much of it.
Throw in the fact that since you plan on doing UOA it makes perfect sense to rid the break-in contaminates & get to a better UOA baseline sooner. And if you end up going further than 3k when it's safe to do so then it will equal out or better factoring in these few early changes so why people cry foul makes no sense to me. You can easily make up the difference in these few short runs by extending them longer in the future. Then there's no "Waste" as some here claim. You are responsible for your equipment & attempting to keep the oil system clean is wise in the long haul but don't be confused with extended drains in the future that can work just as well after this break-in debris has subsided to safe levels. Congrats on the Lexus! Side Note: In another thread I questioned a Lexus owner & responded that it did not come with an oil life monitor so I'm curious if yours does not as well?
 
The fact you're questioning it is my point... It's an unknown variable that you or I can't tell so why risk not flushing it out? Your "senses" don't know what's actually in the oil but your telling OP to keep it in. That doesn't make any sense to me. 🤷‍♂️

Besides who wants extremely high amounts of this stuff floating around in their oil for thousands of miles if they can simply flush it out earlier. Your stance is, run this high amount of silicon debris through the engine & the OP is a nervous nellie b/c he's not doing that. I wholeheartedly disagree 100% & think the name calling is uncalled for. When there is a "Red Flag" on your UOA I'd imagine it's wise to remedy the issue if possible & in this situation you can by draining after a few hundred miles, then gradually increase the runs as it. improves.
This "concerning" ppm was in the oil that was drained. This is the break in factory oil.

There was likely 30ppm+/- Si compound anti-foam agent in the fresh oil package that was installed. Also recall 100ppm is one one-hundredth of one percent.

I concede that one person's excessive is another person's necessity.

Have at it if you will. But think about boosting the HTHS a bit. You may not have that goodly amount of moly to help with boundary regime lubrication - which you will likely experience with a fuel diluted, high VM 0W20. Floating the fast moving bits is priority.

OCI #2 is in progress as I type.
 
Good on the changing oil early, but every 3k regular oil change is totally unnecessary. 5k minimum or every 7.5 k on good oil as in Amsoil or HPL.
 
This "concerning" ppm was in the oil that was drained. This is the break in factory oil.

There was likely 30ppm+/- Si compound anti-foam agent in the fresh oil package that was installed. Also recall 100ppm is one one-hundredth of one percent.

I concede that one person's excessive is another person's necessity.

Have at it if you will. But think about boosting the HTHS a bit. You may not have that goodly amount of moly to help with boundary regime lubrication - which you will likely experience with a fuel diluted, high VM 0W20. Floating the fast moving bits is priority.

OCI #2 is in progress as I type.
11 PPM silicon on VOA 0w-20 Toyota Motor Oil.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/toyota-0w-20-sp-voa.341709/#post-5799221

There will still be high amounts of Silicon in this second run. Notably less than this first run but still high so the high PPM silicon is not just this single oil run.
 
meanwhile you may want to boost your sump by substituting a quart or two of the 20 grade with a high HTHS ACEA A3,B4 lube MB or Porshe gasoline spec. You can't reverse pounded bearings once they have been pounded.
Do you have any recommendations on what you would use (product names)
 
Back
Top