2022+ Subaru WRX FA24F Oil Strategy

[bluesubie]

Thanks. The language in the manual “…should be changed to 0W-20 synthetic at the next oil change” makes me think they can still make a stink if they are that kind of people.

I am stock, but surprised to hear something negative about Shell gas.

The manual also states that thicker viscosity oil is required in hot temps.

I’ve had warranty work on my Forester (turbo seals replaced) and I was using oil with a different spec than recommended in the manual. IMO, dealers mainly want to see that oil changes were done on time, rather than getting too granular in the details. My dealer actually had to get approval from the district Subaru rep since I was 2k miles out of warranty.

That Shell problem could be a local issue. I put 100k on my Forester after installing a Cobb AP, and stuck with the OTS tune, running mainly Shell 93 and occasionally Costco 93.

 

[ToadyJanker]

I don't know if I mentioned this earlier or not but the owners manual says 5w30 can be used.

I had an oil change done at my dealer after purchase and they had no problem throwing 5w30 in there when I requested it.

My manual says

If 0W-20 synthetic oil is not available, 5W-30 conventional oil may be used if replenishment is needed but should be changed to 0W-20 synthetic oil at the next oil change.​

Now I will confess this feels off... that if 0w-20 synthetic isn't available to top off with a conventional oil instead of a different grade synthetic, but to me that's pretty clear that Subara (America) is saying to not use 5w-30 for extended periods \ not to do an oil change with 5w-30. Fully understand that Subaru Japan says something completely different, that the engine would probably be happier with 5w-30 synthetic, but I'd rather do more oil changes following the letter of the manual (even if that means I do oil changes every 3-4K) until the warranty period is over... especially since I suspect many of my oil changes will be at the dealership.

 

[kschachn]

My manual says

If 0W-20 synthetic oil is not available, 5W-30 conventional oil may be used if replenishment is needed but should be changed to 0W-20 synthetic oil at the next oil change.​

Now I will confess this feels off... that if 0w-20 synthetic isn't available to top off with a conventional oil instead of a different grade synthetic, but to me that's pretty clear that Subara (America) is saying to not use 5w-30 for extended periods \ not to do an oil change with 5w-30. Fully understand that Subaru Japan says something completely different, that the engine would probably be happier with 5w-30 synthetic, but I'd rather do more oil changes following the letter of the manual (even if that means I do oil changes every 3-4K) until the warranty period is over... especially since I suspect many of my oil changes will be at the dealership.

Subaru cannot recommend an oil that wasn’t tested for fuel economy. It’s illegal to do so. But that in no way means it’s a technical reason. Engines are not harmed by oils with an increased HT/HS, only the other way around.

They are saying to change it because it’s a violation of their EPA award to suggest anything different.

All of which has been discussed here hundreds of times, including posts of those EPA letters. But since you’re new I guess you missed all of that discussion.

 

[ToadyJanker]

Subaru cannot recommend an oil that wasn’t tested for fuel economy. It’s illegal to do so. But that in no way means it’s a technical reason. Engines are not harmed by oils with an increased HT/HS, only the other way around.

They are saying to change it because it’s a violation of their EPA award to suggest anything different.

All of which has been discussed here hundreds of times, including posts of those EPA letters. But since you’re new I guess you missed all of that discussion.

Nice passive aggressive snark.

Just because I'm new doesn't mean I haven't read all of it. But I do understand the difference between what shouldn't matter for a warranty claim vs what a company can claim is the issue, I also know from a friend's experience that if I do have to make a claim, I know in a dispute the burden of proof is on me if they want to be difficult...

...maybe if you'd read my posts, you would have seen that. Guess you're new to this thread...

 

[kschachn]

Nice passive aggressive snark.

Just because I'm new doesn't mean I haven't read all of it. But I do understand the difference between what shouldn't matter for a warranty claim vs what a company can claim is the issue, I also know from a friend's experience that if I do have to make a claim, I know in a dispute the burden of proof is on me if they want to be difficult...

...maybe if you'd read my posts, you would have seen that. Guess you're new to this thread...

Sounds like you’re set then.

 

[bluesubie]

My manual says

If 0W-20 synthetic oil is not available, 5W-30 conventional oil may be used if replenishment is needed but should be changed to 0W-20 synthetic oil at the next oil change.​

Now I will confess this feels off... that if 0w-20 synthetic isn't available to top off with a conventional oil instead of a different grade synthetic, but to me that's pretty clear that Subara (America) is saying to not use 5w-30 for extended periods \ not to do an oil change with 5w-30. Fully understand that Subaru Japan says something completely different, that the engine would probably be happier with 5w-30 synthetic, but I'd rather do more oil changes following the letter of the manual (even if that means I do oil changes every 3-4K) until the warranty period is over... especially since I suspect many of my oil changes will be at the dealership.

Presume you owner’s manual also states:

• In choosing an oil, you want the proper quality and viscosity, as well as one that will enhance fuel economy. Oils of lower viscosity provide better fuel economy. However, in hot weather, oil of higher viscosity is required to properly lubricate the engine. The following table lists the recommended viscosities and applicable temperatures.

 

[Roberts9156]

Presume you owner’s manual also states:

• In choosing an oil, you want the proper quality and viscosity, as well as one that will enhance fuel economy. Oils of lower viscosity provide better fuel economy. However, in hot weather, oil of higher viscosity is required to properly lubricate the engine. The following table lists the recommended viscosities and applicable temperatures.

It does say this, and I agree it feels like Subaru opened the door. But it still doesn’t overrule the other statements. While I’m convinced a 30 weight would be better, and the engineers in Subaru know this, I expect the dealer would still try to argue I violated the manual when they are looking for any reason to deny claims.

 

[CleanSump]

How’s this for an oil strategy for a 2022+ Subaru WRX FA24F? (Daily driver, all climates, OCI <5000 miles. Not interested in boutique oils):

Under Warranty - Pennzoil Ultra Platinum (PUP) 0w-20
After Warranty - Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30
At High Mileage for a few changes - Valvoline Restore and Protect 0W-20

(Did I get my BITOG wings?)

Reads as a reasonable plan. It's what makes you feel comfortable, not what others think about warranties - your car, not their's.
To get BITOG wings you need to ignore the manual, go up in grade. and change the oil like diapers on a newborn.

 

[tired]

(Did I get my BITOG wings?)

Not hardly. Have you read much here?

Run Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 or Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30. Mobil 1 Euro Car 0W-40 is also an excellent choice but I imagine that a 40 on the bottle would cause you to have a stroke.

Your warranty isn't contingent on the grade of the oil used. It is contingent on your choice causing damage. A higher grade oil will not cause damage.

Your plan makes zero sense. Why would you run a 20 grade later in the car's life?

You'd be wise to listen to the long term Subaru owners who have had good luck running a Euro oil in a 30 grade. If you're not here to take their advice, then it seems you are just looking to have your odd choices validated.

 

[Roberts9156]

Not hardly. Have you read much here?

Run Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 or Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30. Mobil 1 Euro Car 0W-40 is also an excellent choice but I imagine that a 40 on the bottle would cause you to have a stroke.

Your warranty isn't contingent on the grade of the oil used. It is contingent on your choice causing damage. A higher grade oil will not cause damage.

Your plan makes zero sense. Why would you run a 20 grade later in the car's life?

You'd be wise to listen to the long term Subaru owners who have had good luck running a Euro oil in a 30 grade. If you're not here to take their advice, then it seems you are just looking to have your odd choices validated.

Please read my original post.

 

[bluesubie]

It does say this, and I agree it feels like Subaru opened the door. But it still doesn’t overrule the other statements. While I’m convinced a 30 weight would be better, and the engineers in Subaru know this, I expect the dealer would still try to argue I violated the manual when they are looking for any reason to deny claims.

Yeah, we’ve been having these same discussions since SoA/SC dropped the full list of thicker oils back around 2010 and made the oil recommendations more ambiguous. I always find it funny when the manual mentions allowing “conventional” 5W-40 or 0W-20. Someone on the Outback forum did get an SoA CSR to state that a 30 grade was acceptable due to the hot weather language (after several back and forth emails).

I’m glad that I know my dealership's lead Senior Master Tech well (placed 3rd place in the global tech competition) and he is reasonable when it comes to oil discussions and recommendations. By the time that he retires a may just move to an EV ToyoBaru.

 

[Chief2025]

How’s this for an oil strategy for a 2022+ Subaru WRX FA24F? (Daily driver, all climates, OCI <5000 miles. Not interested in boutique oils):

Under Warranty - Pennzoil Ultra Platinum (PUP) 0w-20
After Warranty - Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30
At High Mileage for a few changes - Valvoline Restore and Protect 0W-20

(Did I get my BITOG wings?)

How do you drive.........

Highway.....
City short trip
Lots of idling.
What is your climate like.....hot, cold, freezing.....?

Do you cruise and shift early or redline all the time.

These factors play a Bigger role than just a blanket oil weight.

 

[CleanSump]

Well, it's not like you asked what the best.

 

[scrllock]

Please read my original post.

No point to switching back to a 20 grade post-warranty. And odds are very low you would benefit from Valvoline Restore and Protect on an engine that's seen regular oil changes on Pennzoil Ultra Platinum/Mobil 1 ESP.

For a JDM FA20DIT, 5w40 was fully acceptable in their manual, as well as a euro-style 0w30 (3.5+ HTHS). Rod and main bearing clearances have not changed between the FA20 and FA24, so there is zero reason you can't use a 5w40/euro oil (as others have recommended here). If it gives you peace of mind to run the required spec during warranty there's nothing wrong with that but in general, if you are concerned about optimal wear protection, a thicker oil than the one required by CAFE rules would be the way to go.

 

[pman9003]

No point to switching back to a 20 grade post-warranty. And odds are very low you would benefit from Valvoline Restore and Protect on an engine that's seen regular oil changes on Pennzoil Ultra Platinum/Mobil 1 ESP.

For a JDM FA20DIT, 5w40 was fully acceptable in their manual, as well as a euro-style 0w30 (3.5+ HTHS). Rod and main bearing clearances have not changed between the FA20 and FA24, so there is zero reason you can't use a 5w40/euro oil (as others have recommended here). If it gives you peace of mind to run the required spec during warranty there's nothing wrong with that but in general, if you are concerned about optimal wear protection, a thicker oil than the one required by CAFE rules would be the way to go.

Taking this a step further, rod and main bearing clearances are also the same on the FA24F (BRZ-NA) and FA24D (WRX-Turbo). For the GR86 Cup, Toyota/Subaru have mandated Mobil 1 FS 0W40 for the series. So viscosity is not an issue.

I have a 25 WRX I purchased recently. I did my first oil change at 1000miles with Mobil 1 ESP 0w30 since its widely recommended.

Any reason Mobil 1 FS 0W40 would be an issue from an LSPI perspective since the FA24D is Turbo and DI only? Or any other concerns with the add pack? I have a huge stash of Mobil 1 FS 0W40 since I use it in several other vehicles and sticking to one type of oil is very appealing.

If it wasnt obvious, I'm not worried about warranty and oil choice. I will probably be tracking this car some, and unfortunately this will likely give them an out regadless of oil choice.

 

[scrllock]

Taking this a step further, rod and main bearing clearances are also the same on the FA24F (BRZ-NA) and FA24D (WRX-Turbo). For the GR86 Cup, Toyota/Subaru have mandated Mobil 1 FS 0W40 for the series. So viscosity is not an issue.

I have a 25 WRX I purchased recently. I did my first oil change at 1000miles with Mobil 1 ESP 0w30 since its widely recommended.

Any reason Mobil 1 FS 0W40 would be an issue from an LSPI perspective since the FA24D is Turbo and DI only? Or any other concerns with the add pack? I have a huge stash of Mobil 1 FS 0W40 since I use it in several other vehicles and sticking to one type of oil is very appealing.

No, a 40 grade SP/SQ oil won't have LSPI concerns. detergent pack is updated with SN+/SP and it is not as limited on ZDDP as a 30 grade ILSAC/RC oil would be.

I did the same thing while hoarding for the rest of the year. All 4 vehicles I maintain can use 0w40 FS without issue (even the tiny GM engine--it meets Dexos R which means it meets dexos 1/2).

 

[pman9003]

No, a 40 grade SP/SQ oil won't have LSPI concerns. detergent pack is updated with SN+/SP and it is not as limited on ZDDP as a 30 grade ILSAC/RC oil would be.

I did the same thing while hoarding for the rest of the year. All 4 vehicles I maintain can use 0w40 FS without issue (even the tiny GM engine--it meets Dexos R which means it meets dexos 1/2).

Thanks, this is what I thought. MB229.5 is pretty strict and the AMG engines run a lot more boost stock and are DI only.

 

[tired]

Please read my original post.

...

I replied to your original post. I don't see the logic.

 

[Roberts9156]

To be clear, I understand a 30 (or 40] weight oil is better, and plan to switch when my warranty expires. I have also appreciated the thoughts challenging me if I really should be concerned while in warranty. I may change my mind and switch earlier to Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30.

To be honest, I’m surprised how many people seem to have more faith than I do, that their dealer/service center won’t try to find any reason to not pay for a potential very expensive claim.

 

[Titan]

Thanks, this is what I thought. MB229.5 is pretty strict and the AMG engines run a lot more boost stock and are DI only.

LSPI tends to be a problem with some SMALL boosted DI engines. AMG engines don't fall into that category partly because they aren't "small".