2021 F-150 2.7L EB - M1 5W-30 - 10,040km

Joined
Mar 19, 2008
Messages
13
Location
Ontario, Canada
Hi Everyone,

I bought this truck new and have serviced myself. 1 year old now. With direct injection, I was worried about fuel dilution and this is probably close to my worst case; seems like I did the right thing by changing when I did. 10k interval is a habit from past cars; a (hopefully) conservative round number I won't forget.

This is the 2nd Gen 2.7L with dual injection (port + DI), 10speed trans.

This oil was used from January to June (6 months). It had some pretty big payloads for ~1500km and another ~1000km worth of towing a light trailer. Lots of idling due to Canadian winter/spring. Mostly highway/rural roads with some city. Love the truck and runs good.

I am using M1 because it meets WSS-M2C961-A1 listed in the manual. Seems like I am changing at the right time; I'm not interested in extended intervals, just good long term ownership. Any and all comments about interval and oil choice are welcome. Hopefully it helps somebody else!

Change 1: Factory fill drained for M1 @ 5,000km
Change 2: M1 - 5,000km
Change 3: M1 - 10,040km M1 (this sample)
Interval Engine Hrs: 269​
Interval Idle Hrs: 32​
OLM showed 38% remaining
Total Odometer @ change: 20,126km

Motorcraft FL-2062-A Filters, factory air filter.

F-150 Analysis.jpg
 
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Hi Everyone,

I bought this truck new and have serviced myself. 1 year old now. With direct injection, I was worried about fuel dilution and this is probably close to my worst case; seems like I did the right thing by changing when I did. 10k interval is a habit from past cars; a (hopefully) conservative round number I won't forget.

This is the 2nd Gen 2.7L with dual injection (port + DI), 10speed trans.

This oil was used from January to June (6 months). It had some pretty big payloads for ~1500km and another ~1000km worth of towing a light trailer. Lots of idling due to Canadian winter/spring. Mostly highway/rural roads with some city. Love the truck and runs good.

I am using M1 because it meets WSS-M2C961-A1 listed in the manual. Seems like I am changing at the right time; I'm not interested in extended intervals, just good long term ownership. Any and all comments about interval and oil choice are welcome. Hopefully it helps somebody else!

Change 1: Factory fill drained for M1 @ 5,000km
Change 2: M1 - 5,000km
Change 3: M1 - 10,040km M1 (this sample)
Interval Engine Hrs: 269​
Interval Idle Hrs: 32​
OLM showed 38% remaining
Total Odometer @ change: 20,126km

Motorcraft FL-2062-A Filters, factory air filter.

View attachment 113046
SupraSteve
Since you're not looking for extended drain intervals and are content with 10k kilometer uoa's, I would switch to some different brands of synthetic. These Ecoboost motors are known for shearing Oil out of Grade. Your 2.7L EB was no exception. I'd like to see what Amsoil SS, High Performance Lubricant, and Super Tech would do head to head
We saw what M1 did
Best of luck
 
SupraSteve
Since you're not looking for extended drain intervals and are content with 10k kilometer uoa's, I would switch to some different brands of synthetic. These Ecoboost motors are known for shearing Oil out of Grade. Your 2.7L EB was no exception. I'd like to see what Amsoil SS, High Performance Lubricant, and Super Tech would do head to head
We saw what M1 did
Best of luck
Id bet his fuel dilution is alot more than 1.8%. Id use OAI instead of blackstone
 
Looks pretty good to me considering the fuel dilution. Its just barely out of grade. Try using OAI instead of blackstone next time to get an accurate measure of fuel dilution!
 
Looks pretty good to me considering the fuel dilution. Its just barely out of grade. Try using OAI instead of blackstone next time to get an accurate measure of fuel dilution!
Are you the new shill in town, with back-to-back OAI-fluffing posts? 1.8% is among the highest I’ve ever seen Blackstone note, so maybe they’ve altered their measurement technique. OP can see he’s just out of grade and no coolant contamination, so if he’s happy with Blackstone, there’s no benefit to changing to OAI. A “more accurate” dilution % isn’t going to change the cSt of the sample nor the results of the report.

Some fuel in the oil is a feature of GDI. The only real way to decrease it is to alter driving style (reduced idling, etc) and by changing the oil more frequently. 10k km OCI is likely safe for the OP and easy to remember.

OP, do you have a JLT catch can or anything? I know the one on my 3.5 catches the very-low viscosity stuff that would be circulating in the crankcase & making it’s way into the intake. I’m glad it’s not. I get roughly 3oz total over a 6k mi OCI.
 
Are you the new shill in town, with back-to-back OAI-fluffing posts? 1.8% is among the highest I’ve ever seen Blackstone note, so maybe they’ve altered their measurement technique. OP can see he’s just out of grade and no coolant contamination, so if he’s happy with Blackstone, there’s no benefit to changing to OAI. A “more accurate” dilution % isn’t going to change the cSt of the sample nor the results of the report.

Some fuel in the oil is a feature of GDI. The only real way to decrease it is to alter driving style (reduced idling, etc) and by changing the oil more frequently. 10k km OCI is likely safe for the OP and easy to remember.

OP, do you have a JLT catch can or anything? I know the one on my 3.5 catches the very-low viscosity stuff that would be circulating in the crankcase & making it’s way into the intake. I’m glad it’s not. I get roughly 3oz total over a 6k mi OCI.
Wow dude dont take it so personal i dont even use them. Just a simple suggestion lighten up
 
Nice report. That run is certainly influenced by your use of that engine (and you are changing about when you should). I'm running 10kM on mine and my oil still has plenty of life.
 
OP, do you have a JLT catch can or anything? I know the one on my 3.5 catches the very-low viscosity stuff that would be circulating in the crankcase & making it’s way into the intake. I’m glad it’s not. I get roughly 3oz total over a 6k mi OCI.
The truck is totally stock.
 
SupraSteve
Since you're not looking for extended drain intervals and are content with 10k kilometer uoa's, I would switch to some different brands of synthetic. These Ecoboost motors are known for shearing Oil out of Grade. Your 2.7L EB was no exception. I'd like to see what Amsoil SS, High Performance Lubricant, and Super Tech would do head to head
We saw what M1 did
Best of luck
I doubt it's shearing that much at this mileage; likely the viscosity reduced from the fuel, but I don't think switching brands will help that much...probably just need to keep the changes fairly frequent (at least when winter idling/snowmobile trips are involved) The good news is, it looks like the engine didn't seem to mind (yet).
 
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Are you the new shill in town, with back-to-back OAI-fluffing posts? 1.8% is among the highest I’ve ever seen Blackstone note, so maybe they’ve altered their measurement technique. OP can see he’s just out of grade and no coolant contamination, so if he’s happy with Blackstone, there’s no benefit to changing to OAI. A “more accurate” dilution % isn’t going to change the cSt of the sample nor the results of the report.

Some fuel in the oil is a feature of GDI. The only real way to decrease it is to alter driving style (reduced idling, etc) and by changing the oil more frequently. 10k km OCI is likely safe for the OP and easy to remember.

OP, do you have a JLT catch can or anything? I know the one on my 3.5 catches the very-low viscosity stuff that would be circulating in the crankcase & making it’s way into the intake. I’m glad it’s not. I get roughly 3oz total over a 6k mi OCI.
Have you pulled a UOA on the eco with the catch can ? If so, how did it look ? My buddy just bought a F150 with a 3.5 the other day. I'm assuming he might need one...
 
Have you pulled a UOA on the eco with the catch can ? If so, how did it look ? My buddy just bought a F150 with a 3.5 the other day. I'm assuming he might need one...
I’ll have one soon on a Motorcraft oil fill with about 5,500 miles. Going to be dropping it soon since the dealer erroneously drained my Ravenol DXG @ 800 miles. Had about 1,500 miles of towing a 10k lb trailer so we’ll see…
 
I’ll have one soon on a Motorcraft oil fill with about 5,500 miles. Going to be dropping it soon since the dealer erroneously drained my Ravenol DXG @ 800 miles. Had about 1,500 miles of towing a 10k lb trailer so we’ll see…
Cool , gonna be interesting. Thanks for the reply.
 
Cool , gonna be interesting. Thanks for the reply.
No problem. (IMHO): frequency of service nearly always trumps the cost of said service; and if frequency is inside of manufacturer’s recommendation (6k OCI on a 10k mfr recommendation), you will never, EVER recoup the additional money spent on “exceeding” the oil specs required by the OM. Sure, there are always one-off cases, and there are certainly smarter folks than me- but for the 95% who buy their car & commute back & forth to work, none of the boutique oils will do anything that the non-bougie, in-spec oils won’t. Also: if you’re hell-bent on “better” results, the real gains are in making sure you’ve got top-shelf air and oil filters.

There are some “crutches” minimize the negatives of TGDIs like PCV air-oil separators (catch cans), but the biggest downsides to them (fuel in oil, micro-soot loading) can only be resolved by changing the oil & filter. It’s one of the reasons why I’ve only got 1 TGDI (3.5 EcoBoost) and why that likely won’t change anytime soon for me- port-injected, non-turbo engines are generally much gentler on oil, and with UOA testing (for viscosity, TBN, fuel & antifreeze tests only) one can stretch OCIs quite impressively, and safely.
 
I thought long and hard about a catch can, but the port injection should keep the valves clean; I wouldn't expect the inclusion of one to improve the lifespan of the oil in the crankcase.
 
I thought long and hard about a catch can, but the port injection should keep the valves clean; I wouldn't expect the inclusion of one to improve the lifespan of the oil in the crankcase.
Not even port injection will help keep the slime from the PCV system out of parts of the intake, though, and that's one big reason why I got mine. The other reason is to minimize any liquid oil getting into the intake or cylinders, as oil in the combustion chamber (especially on turbo engines) can do really bad things under heavy boost and high engine temps... 14psi+ boost plus detonation is going to ruin your day.

Think of the catch can as a check valve to keep crankcase liquids other than gasoline out of the combustion chamber, and for $150 its cheap insurance IMO.
 
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