I used a 17mm Hex shallow socket with a long 1/2” ratchet (because it was overtightened) to remove the drain plug and it rounded out the drain plug. What would be the best solution to go about this? Would using GripEdge RPT hex socket work? Or what would you advise? Thank you.
2020 Lexus RX350 AWD - Transmission Drain Plug Rounded
- Thread starter iCurious
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That looks like it could simply be grabbed by a good pair of vice grips. Replacing the plug with a new one afterwards of course.
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In the past I've had good luck by hammering a torx bit into the rounded allen socket and letting the tapered points get a good bite, though this looks like it's pretty shallow. You can also try hammering a punch at a leftward angle into the outer face, with a good enough bite it will transmit all that force into spinning the plug loose.
I had a similar problem on a Toyota transmission drain plug. Knipex Cobras broke torque easily. I was so happy, not to mention surprised. Good luck.
SilentType
Site Donor 2025
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If worse comes to worse you could weld a hex nut to the plug.
Locking pliers and you're done!
Since it is a six-sided hex head, I would use a good adjustable Crescent wrench on opposing flats and hit it a few times with a 3 lb. hammer to shock it loose. Obviously, have a new replacement plug and washer on hand for reinstallation.
I would call it a lifetime fill from now on…
But if you really want to change it, it looks like there should be enough room for a pipe wrench.
Also I noticed in the second pic that there is a flat portion still remaining on the plug, so I don’t think you inserted the hex all the way in and it slipped. Try again, but insert it in all the way with a hammer and then make sure it doesn’t twist when you apply torque to the wrench, you need to keep it square.
But if you really want to change it, it looks like there should be enough room for a pipe wrench.
Also I noticed in the second pic that there is a flat portion still remaining on the plug, so I don’t think you inserted the hex all the way in and it slipped. Try again, but insert it in all the way with a hammer and then make sure it doesn’t twist when you apply torque to the wrench, you need to keep it square.
Thank you all for information.
I did insert the 17mm hex socket fully all the way but it slipped out while i was applying pressure on the socket. I was doing on the ground so leverage was not the best and had to use a long 1/2” ratchet and it rounded the bolt out.
Sorry for being skeptical but how is it possible to use a locking plier or cobra plier handle the immense torque?
I did insert the 17mm hex socket fully all the way but it slipped out while i was applying pressure on the socket. I was doing on the ground so leverage was not the best and had to use a long 1/2” ratchet and it rounded the bolt out.
Sorry for being skeptical but how is it possible to use a locking plier or cobra plier handle the immense torque?
Clean it out good, JB Kwikweld a socket in - wait 6 hours.....
Yeah hammer in a Torx and then honestly you gotta have an impact. Get to where you can SEE what's going on. You need an impact with good trigger modulation, which is most of them (I have an old Astro stubby that's terrible). Battery/electric tends to have better trigger control.
WATCH and if the Torx starts to move and the fastener does not, stop and try something else, or drive it in deeper.
Don't just lay into the impact -- you want quick blips.
With a bit of luck the impact will "snap" the fastener free. You need that quick snap, like ripping a tablecloth from under a set table. Heat is definitely your friend -- even MAPP (technically MAPP Pro these days)
Worst case take it to a shop. A bit can be welded IN or a nut welded ON. The heat from welding will also make it spin out like butta
WATCH and if the Torx starts to move and the fastener does not, stop and try something else, or drive it in deeper.
Don't just lay into the impact -- you want quick blips.
With a bit of luck the impact will "snap" the fastener free. You need that quick snap, like ripping a tablecloth from under a set table. Heat is definitely your friend -- even MAPP (technically MAPP Pro these days)
Worst case take it to a shop. A bit can be welded IN or a nut welded ON. The heat from welding will also make it spin out like butta
I honestly don't know on sizing. I like to have a set and try whatever fits the tightest.
Must it be a socket head? Could you replace with a hex head drain plug?
It looks like that casting rib at photo left could be sanded back a little?
I actually have them but didnt think I am strong enough.
Try them. You might be surprised; I sure was.
Gripedge 17mm hex is your best bet.
