The turbo is not designed for a grade.
2020 Civic Hatchback 1.5T/ 24000m/4000m OCI/Kirkland 0w20
- Thread starter Senchronize
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Prevents knock retard. KR can cause the ECU to dump more fuel,/run richer to cool things down. That's the theory anyway and it has merit.
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So the Honda Engineers built a car really for a 91 octane and put a knock sensor to retard the timing? Seems kinda backwards, but I will help test out the theory via the scientific method by eliminating as much variables as possible.
I will complete my 6k this run without changing anything, send result to both BSL and another lab that does chromatography(any recommendations?), and then if the results vary quite a bit I will try the next 5k OCI with 91 oct only and see the result.
I'm a longtime BS customer that recently tried out Oil Analyzers. I see no reason to send two samples to two labs if you're looking specifically for fuel dilution. Just use OA (IMO). I like BS universal averages, so I will always use them at least once on any new-to-me vehicle just to get those numbers, but otherwise I'm switching to OA. In addition to using gas chromatography for more accurate fuel dilution, they also provide oxidation and nitration results which BS does not.
OA all day any day. Quick and reliable results, especially if you have a lab near by that you can drop the sample off (I’m in Houston area and they have a lab that accepts drop offs)
I'd say they can run 87 because of GDI, so it dumps more fuel in the combustion chamber to retard knock.
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All good, I ordered kits from oil analyzer, I'm running both since I want proof from the same sample that BL is far off compared to OA. Trust but verify
Once that is done I can decide which one to stick with. I'm in Arizona, any drop off locations?I'm probably going to do the same on our CR-V in October when its oil change is due. Send one to BS and one to OA. Main reason is I want the most up-to-date Universal Average data. It'll be interesting to compare fuel dilution data too. FWIW, others have already done this (you'll have to search the UOA forum) and it's typically 2-4% difference. So if BS says 1%, OA will typically show 3-5%.All good, I ordered kits from oil analyzer, I'm running both since I want proof from the same sample that BL is far off compared to OA. Trust but verify
edit: here is one that I had in my bookmarks:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...-3-labs-1-with-pc-tan-tbn.365649/post-6396801
and another:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...22-gmc-sierra-6-2l-2-labs.366147/post-6411173
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We have a 2020 Acura RDX with the 2.0 motor. At our last oil change I sent samples to both Blackstone and Oil Analyzers. You can see the results here in post #162
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-rdx...-much-oil-oil-dilution-gasoline-977992/page5/
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Wow that’s quite a difference! I though the 2.0L were safe because they are NA, but I guess the Acura models are 2.0 turbo?
Did you end up finding a good countermeasure?
Yes the motor has GDI and a turbo.
I don't know that there is any counter measure other than what I've been doing. I've been using 5-30 oil since the first oil drain and changing it when the maintenance minder gets down to 40-30%.
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All Direct Injected engines dilute oil, the vehicle manufacturers and oil manufacturers are aware and factor this into their design. Run a quality oil that the vehicle calls for and change it more often, and don’t pay too much attention to people here who think they’ve outsmarted the automotive industry with a few charts and 10 hours of browsing the forum.
Please provide any sort of reference of this. Otherwise it’s a bunch of nonsense.
On the 10th gen Honda specifies 91 for the Sport models.
On the 11th gen Honda species 91 for manual models.
I'm curious about the exact reasons why, but for most turbos you will get best performance on 91, even though it can run 87.
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That 91 for manual models is only for the sedan because the only manual sedan is the Si. Makes sense since the Si engine and turbo is no different from the non-Si except it runs more boost and tuned for higher octane
My hatch owners manual:
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Just being devil's advocate's and throwing out random thoughts here, and CAFE standard aside, what's more logical?
1.A company like Honda not testing their GDI engines at all pushes 0w20 not knowing it would have dilution issues and oil thinning grade before the oil change interval
2. Honda knowing the engine can start with 0w20 and knows it dilutes and the car can run fine without issues with thinner grade oil so they don't recommend higher viscosity? (And perhaps even beta testing 0w16 in the process)
At this point almost all the debate on this dilution has been done in various places online, I don't think I have seen an engine blow up or die or excessive wear pictures yet on those that use 0w20, nor those with 5w30 causing any major damage either. Unless I'm wrong, but I think the key is always making the OCI shorter, no?
1.A company like Honda not testing their GDI engines at all pushes 0w20 not knowing it would have dilution issues and oil thinning grade before the oil change interval
2. Honda knowing the engine can start with 0w20 and knows it dilutes and the car can run fine without issues with thinner grade oil so they don't recommend higher viscosity? (And perhaps even beta testing 0w16 in the process)
At this point almost all the debate on this dilution has been done in various places online, I don't think I have seen an engine blow up or die or excessive wear pictures yet on those that use 0w20, nor those with 5w30 causing any major damage either. Unless I'm wrong, but I think the key is always making the OCI shorter, no?
My son put 60k hard miles on a 2018 civic 1.5t 6mt. We loved that car. On 0-20 I did see some oci’s with increased oil levels, especially early on, and others where it had fallen. Around 20k miles I started using a mix of same-brand 5-20 and 5-30, about half half. At about the same time the levels started becoming more consistent. We stayed with the 7.5k oci. In general, just based on the butt dyno (which has limited credibility), the engine was more consistent throughout the 7500 miles on the slightly higher VI. that engine can run a LOT of boost and put out a lot of power and torque for 1.5 liters. We used the slightly thicker oil and premium fuel. Considering the crazy high mpg that car could get, we didn’t flinch at the price for premium. He sold it when his job started calling for more cargo capacity.
No to advance timing. More fuel takes longer to burn. Basically premium uses less gas for the same timing which produces more torque and better mpg. If the catalytic converter gets too hot it adds fuel to cool it even with premium. No engine built with fuel injection is made only for regular.
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