2018 Volvo 0W-30 Oil Recommendation

Joined
Jan 23, 2019
Messages
4
Location
Vermont
Hi all. I'm looking for a recommendation for a 0W-30 oil for a 2018 Volvo V90CC T5 with 100,000 miles. I live in Vermont, so I want to keep the lower temperature protection of 0W. But with a spirited driving style I lean towards the -30 weight as opposed to -20.

I'm assuming there are better oils now than the original Volvo RBS0-2AE specification when the VEA 4 cylinders came out.

Thanks for the help!
 
I’ve run AMSOIL and HPL 0W30 in my Volvos - both have worked well in a Vermont winter. My son’s V70T5 is in Waterbury, and runs the AMSOIL. My daughter’s XC90 is in Boston, but she gets out skiing pretty often in New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont - and it has the HPL.
 
All RBS0-2AE is 0w20.

However, Volvo's alternative is A5/B5 0w30 or 5w30. You might like this Liqui-Moly Special Tec V
Any of these will work:
Screenshot 2024-09-15 at 14.18.20.webp
 
Castrol Edge Extended 5w-30 has the A5/B5 approval, so it's technically an approved oil for that engine. I know it's not the 0w you want, but thought I'd mention it as it's easy to find.
 
Thanks for the responses everyone.

One follow up question, my understanding is that the special Volvo spec was essentially an ACEA C5. If I’m right does it make sense that a C6 would be a good, newer spec fit for my engine?
 
M1 esp 0w-30 is a good option for you. M1 and Castrol 0w-40 are also good to use. M1 afe 0w-30 is ok but not as great. I'd change more on the frequent side with that engine at its mileage. You can order any of them on walmarts website with free shipping.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-...art/1756386056?classType=REGULAR&from=/search
The OPs engine has 100k miles. Is there a reason a higher mileage engine would require more frequent oil changes than whatever the normal oil change interval is? Or is this specific to Volvo engines? Just curious....I have changed my oil and filter every 7500 miles on my BMW since new, and it is now at 368,200 miles...never been rebuilt, doesn't burn oil. But I am open to more frequent oil changes if there is evidence this is beneficial.

Same with my Tundra...oil/filter changes every 6k to 7k miles. Bought with 24k miles...now at 362,000 miles.
 
The OPs engine has 100k miles. Is there a reason a higher mileage engine would require more frequent oil changes than whatever the normal oil change interval is? Or is this specific to Volvo engines? Just curious....I have changed my oil and filter every 7500 miles on my BMW since new, and it is now at 368,200 miles...never been rebuilt, doesn't burn oil. But I am open to more frequent oil changes if there is evidence this is beneficial.

Same with my Tundra...oil/filter changes every 6k to 7k miles. Bought with 24k miles...now at 362,000 miles.
To have a more assured path of good engine cleanliness which helps reduce emission problems from oil burning and helping the timing components and turbo last longer. Volvo specs 10k intervals so he could be doing that and couldn't be blamed for it. If the book/olm says to do 10k or close to that then the vast majority of people will do so and can't be blamed for it. I'd suggest somewhere around 5k to account for cold weather. Vermont normally sees -5 to -20f in the winters. Additives deplete and the oil degrades and a gdi engine in the cold will be dumping a lot of fuel which thins the oil, eats away at the polymers, and the acidity increases. Seattle and Houston are oddly similar in winter temps which aren't cold. I and anyone else is gonna let it idle for 10-20 minutes in those sub zero temps to let the seats and steering wheel warm up and to start getting some warm air blowing instead of immediately driving away shivering because I preferred to obsess over fuel in my sump. I'll just change the oil more frequently instead.

Your two older vehicles like my two older vehicles are naturally aspirated port injected v8's that don't work that hard, don't get short tripped, and don't really dump a lot of fuel so I'm not surprised they lasted that long. Without any design issues or manufacturing defects to concern the engine it's just normal wear that will be a factor and that's something you can have control in unlike manufacturing or design. I have 340k in my 05 yukons 6.0 and it doesn't burn oil. Been using 15w-40 and change it accordingly which amounts to 7-8k.
 
To have a more assured path of good engine cleanliness which helps reduce emission problems from oil burning and helping the timing components and turbo last longer. Volvo specs 10k intervals so he could be doing that and couldn't be blamed for it. If the book/olm says to do 10k or close to that then the vast majority of people will do so and can't be blamed for it. I'd suggest somewhere around 5k to account for cold weather. Vermont normally sees -5 to -20f in the winters. Additives deplete and the oil degrades and a gdi engine in the cold will be dumping a lot of fuel which thins the oil, eats away at the polymers, and the acidity increases. Seattle and Houston are oddly similar in winter temps which aren't cold. I and anyone else is gonna let it idle for 10-20 minutes in those sub zero temps to let the seats and steering wheel warm up and to start getting some warm air blowing instead of immediately driving away shivering because I preferred to obsess over fuel in my sump. I'll just change the oil more frequently instead.

Your two older vehicles like my two older vehicles are naturally aspirated port injected v8's that don't work that hard, don't get short tripped, and don't really dump a lot of fuel so I'm not surprised they lasted that long. Without any design issues or manufacturing defects to concern the engine it's just normal wear that will be a factor and that's something you can have control in unlike manufacturing or design. I have 340k in my 05 yukons 6.0 and it doesn't burn oil. Been using 15w-40 and change it accordingly which amounts to 7-8k.
to idle for 20min is way overkill, just let the rpms drop from the cold start and drive or wait at max 5min, will get the temps up way faster and you will not be wasting your life away for a cold start..
 
to idle for 20min is way overkill, just let the rpms drop from the cold start and drive or wait at max 5min, will get the temps up way faster and you will not be wasting your life away for a cold start..
Same. I travel to Alaska a couple times each winter and rental cars/trucks typically no longer come with block heaters. It can be -17F in Fairbanks, and they start right up. I only let it idle long enough to scrape the windows (2 or 3 minutes) and I'm off. My trusted technician told me the same...waiting more than a couple minutes is a waste, the car will warm up more quickly by driving off. Just drive gently the first few miles.
 
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Same. I travel to Alaska a couple times each winter and rental cars/trucks typically no longer come with block heaters. It can be -17 in Fairbanks, and they start right up. I only let it idle long enough to scrape the windows (2 or 3 minutes) and I'm off.
I live where it can be -15c all winter, i just start the car and start all the defrost features and scrape the windows, if the rpms have dropped i just drive under 3k rpm until the water temp is at 90c according to the gauge. I'd go insane sitting for 20mins just to drive 10min to the store, litrally just dumping fuel in the oil and wasting fuel because of the car doing it's thing in lower engine temps

i have max 15min to work, adding 20 mins for idle it would take 23 hours (or over 6h a week) each month just to let the car sit and waste fuel. It's just a car, i have better things to do than waste away.
 
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To have a more assured path of good engine cleanliness which helps reduce emission problems from oil burning and helping the timing components and turbo last longer. Volvo specs 10k intervals so he could be doing that and couldn't be blamed for it. If the book/olm says to do 10k or close to that then the vast majority of people will do so and can't be blamed for it. I'd suggest somewhere around 5k to account for cold weather. Vermont normally sees -5 to -20f in the winters. Additives deplete and the oil degrades and a gdi engine in the cold will be dumping a lot of fuel which thins the oil, eats away at the polymers, and the acidity increases. Seattle and Houston are oddly similar in winter temps which aren't cold. I and anyone else is gonna let it idle for 10-20 minutes in those sub zero temps to let the seats and steering wheel warm up and to start getting some warm air blowing instead of immediately driving away shivering because I preferred to obsess over fuel in my sump. I'll just change the oil more frequently instead.
This is good information. Has this been seen in used oil analysis that additives deplete and oil degrades more readily in cold weather? Or is this specific to GDI engines more specifically? And again, that GDI engines in cold are more susceptible to these traits than previous generations of engines?
 
All RBS0-2AE is 0w20.

However, Volvo's alternative is A5/B5 0w30 or 5w30. You might like this Liqui-Moly Special Tec V
How does this fit in with the Volvo specified VCC - RBSO - 2AE 0W-20?
My car is under warranty (2020 S60T6R) and Volvo is known to be sticklers when there are oil related failures.
So how do I use the other oils and be covered under warranty?
What does the Castrol and Liqui Moly Volvo specified oil offer ingredient wise compared to
the other RBSO-2AEs?
My step daughter's 2015 S60 2.0 is out of warranty BUT I am using Luqui Moly ordered from
FCP Groton $48.00/5qt. and 1 quart HPL 30w cleaner to stay ahead of the piston ring/oil drain
hole issues. FCP has lifetime warranty so I have yet to return my full jug of used oil as shipping may
may not be worth it. HPL is local to me and I would use their European 0W20 as it may be a much
more robust oil with higher cleaners in it. The hard part is sifting out opinions and conjectures from truth.

Yes, I wonder if Volvo specd this oil due to their lawyers and bean counters input....

Thank you all in advance
 
How does this fit in with the Volvo specified VCC - RBSO - 2AE 0W-20?
My car is under warranty (2020 S60T6R) and Volvo is known to be sticklers when there are oil related failures.
So how do I use the other oils and be covered under warranty?
What does the Castrol and Liqui Moly Volvo specified oil offer ingredient wise compared to
the other RBSO-2AEs?
My step daughter's 2015 S60 2.0 is out of warranty BUT I am using Luqui Moly ordered from
FCP Groton $48.00/5qt. and 1 quart HPL 30w cleaner to stay ahead of the piston ring/oil drain
hole issues. FCP has lifetime warranty so I have yet to return my full jug of used oil as shipping may
may not be worth it. HPL is local to me and I would use their European 0W20 as it may be a much
more robust oil with higher cleaners in it. The hard part is sifting out opinions and conjectures from truth.

Yes, I wonder if Volvo specd this oil due to their lawyers and bean counters input....

Thank you all in advance
I own a 2017 Volvo S60 Inscription and have been paying attention to the recommended oils as well as the oil burning / piston ring issues on model years prior to mine. At least for my year, the original recommended oil per the manual was any A5/B5 5W-30, but it was later back specd to the VCC - RBSO - 2AE 0W-20, which can be hard to find. My first several oil changes whether done at the dealer or by me used either Castrol Edge or Pennzoil Platinum A5/B5 oils, and I've used Liquimoly, Ravenol, and Motul, all VCC - RBSO - 2AE 0W-20 spec since Volvo changed the recommendation. My car does not burn oil and is out of warranty as of last year. It was a CPO car purchased with 5K miles and now has about 49K miles on it. I am a little less concerned about the the Volvo spec oil since it is out of warranty, but I will continue to use a Euro Spec 0W-20 at 5K-6K OCIs for the foreseeable future.
 
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