2018 Forester 2.5 w/ CVT

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So I just took ownership of a brand new 2018 Forester Premium. I have never owned an AWD before nor a CVT. Anyone have any recommendations on CVT and differential fluids? What kind of intervals are people running, especially the differentials?

Any other tips in general would be appreciated.

Thanks.
 
Leave the CVT alone for 100K. Change the differential oils at about 50K. Use Subaru differential oils.
 
Lets not overthink this. Just change the oil and filter for the first 2-3 years and enjoy the car.

The engine is about the easiest to change the oil in of any car I have owned. The filter and fill are right up front. The oil drain plug is within a little cutout of the bottom engine shield.

I installed a Fumoto valve for oil changes. Super easy now.

Amszon has Subaru OEM filters by lots of 6. I buy some every once and awhile.

SYNTHETIC 0W20 oil only. I use NAPA, but its not picky.

With respect to symmetric AWD, if you damage a tire beyond repair it needs to be same tire tread remaining as other tires. That means used or cut down or replace all 4.
 
Only on bitog does someone get a new vehicle and immediately ask about transmission & diff fluids. Too soon. Wait about a couple of years, then pose the question maybe.

Change the oil at 1,000 miles to get out the break-in metals though.
 
I would not leave the CVT alone for 100k miles. I would do drain and fills every 50k miles unless you do a lot of driving in the mountains (which I kind of doubt considering your location) at which point I'd do it every 30k. Just my opinion, however.
 
Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
Only on bitog does someone get a new vehicle and immediately ask about transmission & diff fluids. Too soon. Wait about a couple of years, then pose the question maybe.

Change the oil at 1,000 miles to get out the break-in metals though.


I just like to plan ahead and buy on sale before I need them. If i wait to decide what I want when I need it I always spend too much.


Right now I was going to do an every 50k drain/fill on the CVT.

I wanted to do a 30k change on the differentials with a long drain oil like Amsoil. Then change again at 100k, 200k, etc. But I see supertech 75W90 GL5 is like $5/quart so maybe just changing them every 50k when I do the CVT would be adequate.
 
As stated just enjoy the Subie for a couple of years. The drain cutout on the bottom of the engine has a plastic cover over it. Been changing oil in Subarus since 1995. This cover about a six inch long oval is the worst designed ever. After I got it off, I just left it off. Other than than welcome to the boxer family.
 
You will find the CVT fluid expensive if you opt for Subaru or Amsoil. And more than just a few QTs like a diff. And you need to do the final finish filling knowing the transmission temp.
 
Originally Posted by sopususer
As stated just enjoy the Subie for a couple of years. The drain cutout on the bottom of the engine has a plastic cover over it. Been changing oil in Subarus since 1995. This cover about a six inch long oval is the worst designed ever. After I got it off, I just left it off. Other than than welcome to the boxer family.


I normally do oil changes with a vacuum pump. Any idea if the boxer pan makes this less of an option?
 
Originally Posted by badtlc
Originally Posted by sopususer
As stated just enjoy the Subie for a couple of years. The drain cutout on the bottom of the engine has a plastic cover over it. Been changing oil in Subarus since 1995. This cover about a six inch long oval is the worst designed ever. After I got it off, I just left it off. Other than than welcome to the boxer family.


I normally do oil changes with a vacuum pump. Any idea if the boxer pan makes this less of an option?


Unsure, but once installed you can reach the Fumoto valve without putting the vehicle on ramps or jack stands. You can get the Fumoto valve with a nipple on the output and connect the vacuum pump to it.

You are talking about a 10-15 minute oil change, no ramps. Could not get much easier.
 
Originally Posted by Donald


Unsure, but once installed you can reach the Fumoto valve without putting the vehicle on ramps or jack stands. You can get the Fumoto valve with a nipple on the output and connect the vacuum pump to it.

You are talking about a 10-15 minute oil change, no ramps. Could not get much easier.


I guess I should clarify. With all my previous vehicles, I would vacuum pump the oil out of the dipstick tube and have been able to get more oil out than using the drain plug. I was hoping the Forester will be as easy.
 
Originally Posted by sopususer
As stated just enjoy the Subie for a couple of years.


And then what, junk it? Trade it? Sell it? Some of us like to keep our cars for their entire lifetimes and the CVT could very well be the determining factor in modern cars. The OP is planning ahead. I like to do the same thing.

BTW, I think we might be neighbors.
 
Originally Posted by badtlc
Originally Posted by Donald


Unsure, but once installed you can reach the Fumoto valve without putting the vehicle on ramps or jack stands. You can get the Fumoto valve with a nipple on the output and connect the vacuum pump to it.

You are talking about a 10-15 minute oil change, no ramps. Could not get much easier.


I guess I should clarify. With all my previous vehicles, I would vacuum pump the oil out of the dipstick tube and have been able to get more oil out than using the drain plug. I was hoping the Forester will be as easy.


Thats a little hard to believe. Boaters typically use a vacuum pump to remove used oil from inboard engines. And they always assume they have left 1/2 QT to 1 QT using the vacuum pump rather than a drain plug.

Any oil left after draining using a drain plug is so small you can ignore it.
 
Solid performer the '18 Forester. Can't go wrong getting a Subaru. Smart purchase I think. .... The Subaru driveshaft and rear diff are constantly churning while driving, and I could see changing it after a year or two of driving, then go 5 years after the internal surfaces are polished down from normal wear-in.
On my '18 Equinox AWD, the driveshaft is disconnected, perfectly motionless, 99% of the time, so I can't imagine ever changing the rear diff fluid or anything to do with the AWD system which is manually engaged only when needed (front wheel drive usually).
 
Originally Posted by badtlc
Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
Only on bitog does someone get a new vehicle and immediately ask about transmission & diff fluids. Too soon. Wait about a couple of years, then pose the question maybe.

Change the oil at 1,000 miles to get out the break-in metals though.


I just like to plan ahead and buy on sale before I need them. If i wait to decide what I want when I need it I always spend too much.


Right now I was going to do an every 50k drain/fill on the CVT.

I wanted to do a 30k change on the differentials with a long drain oil like Amsoil. Then change again at 100k, 200k, etc. But I see supertech 75W90 GL5 is like $5/quart so maybe just changing them every 50k when I do the CVT would be adequate.


The plan you list looks good, if not maybe a little over-kill. Your Foz is an extremely low-powered AWD vehicle with open diffs, front and rear. It will do just fine with ANY GL-5 oil.

I would bet that your average driver could change the diff fluids and the CVT fluid at around 30k and never have to touch them again; however, your plan is very reasonable.

//

The pan on the Foz will not preclude getting most of the oil out, just as you're used to.

I, too, use a Fumoto valve, and love the fact that I can change the oil without having to use a jack. I slide the pan in, lay down on my creeper, reach in and open the valve. I then walk away for a while, to do other chores. Whenever I feel like it, I come back, shut the valve and complete the rest of the oil change (including replacing the top-mounted filter).

If you've already got and are used to vacuuming it out through the dip-stick, then that's likely even better!
 
Agree on the 30-50K mile interval for CVT fluid changes if you want to give it the best level of care.

The front differential service is a bit of a pain on CVT equipped subarus and for what ever reason, the oil doesn't seem to ever "look" dirty.

The rear diffs are super easy to drain/fill and that will look dark and nasty at 20-30K miles.
 
Originally Posted by fenixguy
Originally Posted by sopususer
As stated just enjoy the Subie for a couple of years.


And then what, junk it? Trade it? Sell it? Some of us like to keep our cars for their entire lifetimes and the CVT could very well be the determining factor in modern cars. The OP is planning ahead. I like to do the same thing.

BTW, I think we might be neighbors.



Hey neighbor.

Not trying to discourage preventative maintenance in any way, but with 0 miles on the clock the OP has a little time unless he rolls up the miles in a big hurry. Planning ahead is fine, agreed. Near Boone NC here.
 
Originally Posted by gathermewool


The plan you list looks good, if not maybe a little over-kill. Your Foz is an extremely low-powered AWD vehicle with open diffs, front and rear. It will do just fine with ANY GL-5 oil.

I would bet that your average driver could change the diff fluids and the CVT fluid at around 30k and never have to touch them again; however, your plan is very reasonable.



I know nothing about differentials. I assume open diffs must be easier on oils? Is there any difference in application between the front diff and the rear? Is one harder on gear oil than the other?

Would Amsoil severe gear last any longer than other syn GL5 lubes in this type of application?
 
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