4WD
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2015 list of Dex 1 gen 2 ... to be honest - I'd trust GM oil specs any day before Ford - but I'm running an MB spec'd M1 in my 3.5L ecoboost ...
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2017 Fusion best oil?
- Thread starter mattri
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With the Eco Boost engines keep in mind the possibility of fuel dilution, especially for short tripping. This could necessitate changing the oil sooner. I'm not too sure what oil life parameters Ford uses. For our 2.3 Eco Boost it seems that you lose 1% oil life approximately every 100 miles. This happened from April through most of June, not a warm time period here in NJ, 3,200 OCI, 67% life left. Just changed it from 2 recent trips equaling 7,000 miles in 2 months, mostly high speed interstate driving in Southern heat. That OCI showed 29% oil life left, again 1%/100 miles. Yet the driving conditions were very different. This one was with Mobil 1 5W-30, I'm sending this off to Blackstone to see how the oil fared. When I changed it there was a definite fuel smell in the oil. I changed to Motorcraft 5W-30 and will run it to 5,000 miles and also do a Blackstone UOA to see how it fares. This one will be our "normal" driving conditions. I'll post all the results as I get them.
Whimsey
Whimsey
Originally Posted By: Whimsey
With the Eco Boost engines keep in mind the possibility of fuel dilution, especially for short tripping. This could necessitate changing the oil sooner. I'm not too sure what oil life parameters Ford uses. For our 2.3 Eco Boost it seems that you lose 1% oil life approximately every 100 miles. This happened from April through most of June, not a warm time period here in NJ, 3,200 OCI, 67% life left. Just changed it from 2 recent trips equaling 7,000 miles in 2 months, mostly high speed interstate driving in Southern heat. That OCI showed 29% oil life left, again 1%/100 miles. Yet the driving conditions were very different. This one was with Mobil 1 5W-30, I'm sending this off to Blackstone to see how the oil fared. When I changed it there was a definite fuel smell in the oil. I changed to Motorcraft 5W-30 and will run it to 5,000 miles and also do a Blackstone UOA to see how it fares. This one will be our "normal" driving conditions. I'll post all the results as I get them.
Whimsey
You have to keep in mind that the Ecoboost engines are different. Yes, they have DI and the turbos, but....
For instance, the 1.5 has 4.3 qts of oil, which is actually more oil capacity for displacement than the 2.7. Also, the 2.7 oil is going through two turbos, etc.
I was just looking at my daughter's 1.0 Ecoboost Focus specs(yes, they do exist in the U.S) 4.3 qts. of 5W-20. Way more oil for displacement than the 2.7.
With the Eco Boost engines keep in mind the possibility of fuel dilution, especially for short tripping. This could necessitate changing the oil sooner. I'm not too sure what oil life parameters Ford uses. For our 2.3 Eco Boost it seems that you lose 1% oil life approximately every 100 miles. This happened from April through most of June, not a warm time period here in NJ, 3,200 OCI, 67% life left. Just changed it from 2 recent trips equaling 7,000 miles in 2 months, mostly high speed interstate driving in Southern heat. That OCI showed 29% oil life left, again 1%/100 miles. Yet the driving conditions were very different. This one was with Mobil 1 5W-30, I'm sending this off to Blackstone to see how the oil fared. When I changed it there was a definite fuel smell in the oil. I changed to Motorcraft 5W-30 and will run it to 5,000 miles and also do a Blackstone UOA to see how it fares. This one will be our "normal" driving conditions. I'll post all the results as I get them.
Whimsey
You have to keep in mind that the Ecoboost engines are different. Yes, they have DI and the turbos, but....
For instance, the 1.5 has 4.3 qts of oil, which is actually more oil capacity for displacement than the 2.7. Also, the 2.7 oil is going through two turbos, etc.
I was just looking at my daughter's 1.0 Ecoboost Focus specs(yes, they do exist in the U.S) 4.3 qts. of 5W-20. Way more oil for displacement than the 2.7.
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Originally Posted By: Mathew_Boss
Use Quaker State Ultimate Durability. It's $20 For a 5 quest jug at Wal-Mart and it's the one of the best anti wear oils which is important for short trips. If you don't like SOPUS, try Castrol Magnatec. It has produced some of the best UOA I have seen in Ford Ecoboost engines and is usually less than $18 a 5 quest jug at Wal-Mart. Change at the IOLM and enjoy your new car.
There is a $7 rebate on that 5 quart jug right now as well I just picked up 2 of them!
Use Quaker State Ultimate Durability. It's $20 For a 5 quest jug at Wal-Mart and it's the one of the best anti wear oils which is important for short trips. If you don't like SOPUS, try Castrol Magnatec. It has produced some of the best UOA I have seen in Ford Ecoboost engines and is usually less than $18 a 5 quest jug at Wal-Mart. Change at the IOLM and enjoy your new car.
There is a $7 rebate on that 5 quart jug right now as well I just picked up 2 of them!
Any WAS certified pcmo changed per iOLM is the "Best". Boring answer.
Typical BITOG over specing oil here.
Run what the manufacturer says and change it when the manufacturer says and you'll be good for >200K miles. I've done it a few times since the 80's with far inferior dino oils than are available today.
Any mainline oil from a reputable manufacturer should be fine and handle anything a grocery getter will throw at it. Just don't go cheap and put some old leftover oil from a barn or some really good ebay deal on oil you never heard of and you should be fine.
Also don't crank it on a cold morning and redline it to warm it up.
Run what the manufacturer says and change it when the manufacturer says and you'll be good for >200K miles. I've done it a few times since the 80's with far inferior dino oils than are available today.
Any mainline oil from a reputable manufacturer should be fine and handle anything a grocery getter will throw at it. Just don't go cheap and put some old leftover oil from a barn or some really good ebay deal on oil you never heard of and you should be fine.
Also don't crank it on a cold morning and redline it to warm it up.
If it was mine I'd be running 5w30.
Best would be to follow the owners manual.The OLM is designed to take into account your particular driving conditions and they work very well. Motorcraft oil and filters will suffice wonderfully. There is absolutely no reason to pay top dollar for synthetic oil the OLM will alert you to dump expensive oil at the same interval as any other.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted By: danez_yoda
Typical BITOG over specing oil here.
Run what the manufacturer says and change it when the manufacturer says and you'll be good for >200K miles. I've done it a few times since the 80's with far inferior dino oils than are available today.
Any mainline oil from a reputable manufacturer should be fine and handle anything a grocery getter will throw at it. Just don't go cheap and put some old leftover oil from a barn or some really good ebay deal on oil you never heard of and you should be fine.
Also don't crank it on a cold morning and redline it to warm it up.
Best answer in this thread.
Typical BITOG over specing oil here.
Run what the manufacturer says and change it when the manufacturer says and you'll be good for >200K miles. I've done it a few times since the 80's with far inferior dino oils than are available today.
Any mainline oil from a reputable manufacturer should be fine and handle anything a grocery getter will throw at it. Just don't go cheap and put some old leftover oil from a barn or some really good ebay deal on oil you never heard of and you should be fine.
Also don't crank it on a cold morning and redline it to warm it up.
Best answer in this thread.
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
Above average stuff in your signature ...
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted By: 4WD
Above average stuff in your signature ...
Not because i think it's best, more because it's what i felt like using at the time. I've used Conventional and Blends in the Santa Fe Turbo as well. SM/GF-4 is not hard to meet for the grocery getter.
Above average stuff in your signature ...
Not because i think it's best, more because it's what i felt like using at the time. I've used Conventional and Blends in the Santa Fe Turbo as well. SM/GF-4 is not hard to meet for the grocery getter.
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
Go to eBay or Amazon and get a Gold Plug (brand name) - there have been issues with cheaper brands ...
Originally Posted By: mattri
Great replies, thanks to all who have posted so far.
Debating Motorcraft vs M1 at the moment while searching for a magnetic plug.
More of a budget decision. The motorcraft is cheap buuuut if you buy this month there is a mail in rebate on M1 that makes it about $13 a jug
Great replies, thanks to all who have posted so far.
Debating Motorcraft vs M1 at the moment while searching for a magnetic plug.
More of a budget decision. The motorcraft is cheap buuuut if you buy this month there is a mail in rebate on M1 that makes it about $13 a jug
Anything that meets Ford's approval will be more than sufficient for your fusion. Enjoy the new vehicle!
Read what is happening with the eco boost and oil out in the world. Some uoa's show the oil simply being threaded in these applications. Viscositues of transmission fluid are being seen with many of these motors, this is not a good thing. So whatever you choose, DO A UOA and make sure you visc is not in the 7's. If it ends up there, consider an oil that wont shear down as easy as others, redline.
Had free oil changes for a while from the dealer and used the MC 5W20 held up as well as the synthetics for the OCI. In Iowa though, I believe I would go for a 0W20 synthetic, especially in those winters.
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Motor craft, whatever's cheapest or on sale.
Pretty much any oil mentioned in this thread if it matches with your owners manual including the comment above mine!
Agree on the Gold Plug as far as a "best" suggestion.
Agree on the Gold Plug as far as a "best" suggestion.
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