2017 CRV 1.5T Valve Adjustment

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Oct 28, 2002
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Everson WA - Pacific NW USA
The Honda 1.5L Turbo engine.............indie shop my wife took it to says valves need adjusting at 30K intervals. Hmmm

Maybe need checking at 30K, but not sure about that. Not shown in her manual.

Does anyone know?

Historically on this engine do they need true adjusting? How soon?
 
Not aware that the 1.5 has issues, but the 2.4 in older CR-Vs were 100K intervals. When I did my 2008 CR-V at 100K, I think I had one valve that was slightly loose. The 2.0 on the first CR-Vs did have issues with valves getting tight and burning, which unfortunately you would not know because the interval said 100K or "if they are noisy". They wouldn't get noisy, they'd get quieter because they are getting tighter.

I'm surprised they don't mention anything, even my Pilot calls for valve adjustments; 100K or if they are noisy. Edit: Ok, the maintenance minder tells you when to do the valve adjustment, but it coincides with the timing belt and spark plug replacement which is generally 100K.
 
The Honda 1.5L Turbo engine.............indie shop my wife took it to says valves need adjusting at 30K intervals. Hmmm

Maybe need checking at 30K, but not sure about that. Not shown in her manual.

Does anyone know?

Historically on this engine do they need true adjusting? How soon?
02 Civic Si's were 100k or noisy, if I remember the maintenance booklet correctly. When I heard noise and thought valves at a bit over 60k it was actually a deteriorated exhaust cam lobe. I checked again around 100k and 150k and they were ok, never super far off, but I adjusted to make them more consistent. Then sold it around 200k.
 
It probably would not hurt to check them at 30K, noisy ones are not really an issue its the ones that are quiet that can a problem.
Valve seat recession is more likely to occur within the first 30K and can lead to over tight valves, this is rare today with the advanced material used in modern valve seat construction, if there is any wear it will be minimal but still worth checking IMO as an increase in valve lash can be attributed to cam wear which is better addressed sooner than later.
Usually after the first checking they are good for 100K and more before any adjustments are needed.
 
I'm 'kinda surprised Honda continues with non-hydraulic valve compensation. Most mfrs have gone to hydraulic. I actually prefer mechanical ones, as gummed-up hydraulic lifters, when you have 16, 24, or 32 of them - is a daunting task, first to find, and second, to decide whether to replace all of them in one go, or just the offending one. I say the latter bit, cuz it'll only be a matter of time before another one gums-up. Actually, frequent-enough oil changes helps avert this.
 
I'm 'kinda surprised Honda continues with non-hydraulic valve compensation. Most mfrs have gone to hydraulic. I actually prefer mechanical ones, as gummed-up hydraulic lifters, when you have 16, 24, or 32 of them - is a daunting task, first to find, and second, to decide whether to replace all of them in one go, or just the offending one. I say the latter bit, cuz it'll only be a matter of time before another one gums-up. Actually, frequent-enough oil changes helps avert this.
Adjusting 32 of them can't be too much fun either. Yes frequent oil changes but there are chemicals like Kreen to slowly dissolve said gum.
 
It probably would not hurt to check them at 30K, noisy ones are not really an issue its the ones that are quiet that can a problem.
Valve seat recession is more likely to occur within the first 30K and can lead to over tight valves, this is rare today with the advanced material used in modern valve seat construction, if there is any wear it will be minimal but still worth checking IMO as an increase in valve lash can be attributed to cam wear which is better addressed sooner than later.
Usually after the first checking they are good for 100K and more before any adjustments are needed.
Exactly. Loose valves really don't cause any issues. Seems like the newer ones that I've done recently are all loose.
 
You allowed your wife to take her car to be worked on, elsewhere?

We might revoke your BITOG membership. :ROFLMAO:
I don't work on Honda anymore. Period. Fluids sure. Never buying another Honda, that is for sure.

GD Honda dealers too. Asses added some kind of Karr alarm without our permission. Use Scotchlocks and jiggered up the wiring to the door locks. SOB!
 
They don't cause more wear? Isn't the noise of loose valves the cam smacking the lifter on each revolution? That can't be good.
Once upon a time we used to follow the "Tappy valves are happy valves" philosophy. Cams were different, oil was different (60's & 70's)
All the Honda's we've owned and that I have worked on, exhaust valves were slightly tight, intakes were fine, I always tried to make them as close to the same as I could; that magic touch fades a little with age because your back gets sore and you say "close enough :) sooner!
 
They don't cause more wear? Isn't the noise of loose valves the cam smacking the lifter on each revolution? That can't be good.
Unless they were so loose they were hammering then no. there is a gap even when properly adjusted, the ramp on the cam lobe gradually closes this gap before any pressure is actually exerted on the valve and you don't hear it, a light ticking is not hammering anything in fact some engines years ago had some ticking even when adjusted to spec.

Old Jaguar straight 6 engines were built like this and also designed to burn a fair amount oil deliberately. Nail Head and early Buick 430 engines were also designed to use some oil, only the exhaust valve had a small o ring valve stem seal from the factory.
Ever hear the term ticking over? It is generally accepted it means idling but it comes from many decades ago then idling engines made a ticking noise when operating at low running rpm.
 
Unless they were so loose they were hammering then no. there is a gap even when properly adjusted, the ramp on the cam lobe gradually closes this gap before any pressure is actually exerted on the valve and you don't hear it, a light ticking is not hammering anything in fact some engines years ago had some ticking even when adjusted to spec.

Old Jaguar straight 6 engines were built like this and also designed to burn a fair amount oil deliberately. Nail Head and early Buick 430 engines were also designed to use some oil, only the exhaust valve had a small o ring valve stem seal from the factory.
Ever hear the term ticking over? It is generally accepted it means idling but it comes from many decades ago then idling engines made a ticking noise when operating at low running rpm.
Nowadays we've got fuel injectors to tick too.
 
I don't work on Honda anymore. Period. Fluids sure. Never buying another Honda, that is for sure.

GD Honda dealers too. Asses added some kind of Karr alarm without our permission. Use Scotchlocks and jiggered up the wiring to the door locks. SOB!
I worked at a Honda dealer - I’ve seen the KARR installers at work.
 
I worked at a Honda dealer - I’ve seen the KARR installers at work.
We did not ask, nor did we pay for something that actually messed up the car. We have since moved, and of course the dealer who sold us the car is not returning calls.

Is there a way to reach Honda (Car) of America?
 
Is there a way to reach Honda (Car) of America?
You could - dealers live and die on CSI score. But Honda will say 3rd party accessories fall out of their jurisdiction and they don’t recommend oil and fuel additives.

They know dealers are in bed with SWDS(KARR alarms) and MOC/BG/Wynn’s.
 
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