2016 RAM Compressor Clutch Swap

[Fordiesel69]

This is the hemi, but the general location is similar.

Being my system is full charged with R1234yf I am considering swapping the entire clutch kit while the compressor is still installed in the truck.

How doable is this job? Anyone don one in person other than the guy in the video?

 

[Akin33]

A hot topic has been raised — I had a similar case with the same symptoms. A mechanic friend and I got a new compressor, but the compressor clutch turned out to be faulty — they installed a new assembly with a branded clutch, and since then everything has been working as it should.

One caveat: if the design of the assembly is different — for example, cast nuts or a different type of spring — be sure to choose a “matching spec” clutch kit. Because changing different components separately can lead to mismatched adjustments, and then there may be a buzzing sound when turned on or a leak of freon.

So, in addition to the clutch itself, check whether the “upgrade kit” includes all components, and not just the old clutch disc.

 

[JimPghPA]

Sometimes AC Clutches can be adjusted to take into account wear of the clutch shoe material. If it can be adjusted, it likley will have a lot of use left in it.

 

[Nukeman7]

Being my system is full charged with R1234yf I am considering swapping the entire clutch kit while the compressor is still installed in the truck.

How doable is this job? Anyone don one in person other than the guy in the video?

I have done this job 3 times and waiting on parts to do another one tomorrow. The video accurately reflects the difficulty of the job; however, there are two potential stumbling points: (1) how much clearance do you have to reach the inner circlip with snap ring pliers to release/secure the magnetic coil? and (2) how tightly is the large pulley stuck on the compressor shoulder?

Sometimes AC Clutches can be adjusted to take into account wear of the clutch shoe material. If it can be adjusted, it likley will have a lot of use left in it.

Before attempting to replace the a/c clutch, you should determine if the magnetic coil is working or not by energizing it with 12 volt (+) and testing for magnetism with a screwdriver. If it is showing a magnetic field, the issue is either an excessive air gap or wear/corrosion of the friction surfaces between the pulley and the steel face plate. If so, you can try reducing the air gap clearance by removing a shim(s) as shown in the video below and/or clean the friction surfaces with a Scotchbrite pad or wire brush (but don't abrade the fibrous friction material, if present).


Also, if the magnetic coil is working correctly, you can just replace the face plate and pulley without replacing the coil piece.

 

[brages]

^ I had success removing a shim from the clutch for the A/C in my Volvo.

 

[Fordiesel69]

I have not been able to get the pulley off the compressor. It is stuck. The clutch is rotted out and cannot grab anymore. The magnets do not have enouigh strength and it just rubbs and burns.

 

[brages]

Look up the "zip tie trick" or "bread clip trick" -- might be enough to make the gap tighter without taking anything apart.

You don't have to take off the whole clutch to shim it - just the outer plate.

 

[Arc]

I shimmed mine under the center bolt to close the gap slightly and lightly sanded the shine off of the clutch material. Good as new.

 

[Arc]

Look up the "zip tie trick" or "bread clip trick" -- might be enough to make the gap tighter without taking anything apart.

You don't have to take off the whole clutch to shim it - just the outer plate.

I used a tiny washer I found in the misc bolt drawer of my toolbox. All that junk comes in handy from time to time.