2016 F86 Oil Analysis

[DgjoX6M2016]

New member first post. Referred over from Bimmerpost. Recently changed oil and sent sample in for analysis. Perhaps there is some feedback from forum members? Report says all good, but curious as to what the output means. I take great care of my cars, and want to keep this particular one long term. Thanks!

2016 F86/X6M
S63
58,000 miles

 

[DgjoX6M2016]

Photos for quicker viewing.

 

[edyvw]

Move to heavier oils. S63 runs super hot. That BMW TPT 0W30 is fuel-efficient oil.
I would use Castrol 0W40, Valvoline 5W40, Quaker State 5W40, all available in Wal Mart.
Did you do CCP on that engine? That should be TU version but still some head valve stem issues.

 

[DgjoX6M2016]

Thanks. I’m not sure what a CCP is? It is the TU s63B44T2 and I haven’t noticed any unusual oil consumption. Had a friend with a n62 and needed new valve stems. Brutal repair.

I burn maybe a liter per oil change (5-7k miles or so). Perhaps not even that.

I do use BMW 0-W30. I think BMW is She’ll oil now.

 

[edyvw]

I

Thanks. I’m not sure what a CCP is? It is the TU s63B44T2 and I haven’t noticed any unusual oil consumption. Had a friend with a n62 and needed new valve stems. Brutal repair.

I burn maybe a liter per oil change (5-7k miles or so). Perhaps not even that.

I do use BMW 0-W30. I think BMW is She’ll oil now.

know BMW uses 0W30. I personally would never put in mine as it is designed strictly to bump mpg. The thing is there are different flavors of W30 or W40 oils. HTHS is what matters, not grade per se. In an engine that runs oil temperature 240-250 in regular driving , I would go oils that have HTHS above 3.5 (LL01 oils NOT LL01FE oils, which 0W30 TPT is).
Shell was supplier from 2014. From 02/2021 is Castrol.

 

[DgjoX6M2016]

Move to heavier oils. S63 runs super hot. That BMW TPT 0W30 is fuel-efficient oil.
I would use Castrol 0W40, Valvoline 5W40, Quaker State 5W40, all available in Wal Mart.a
Did you do CCP on that engine? That should be TU version but still some head valve stem issues.

I

know BMW uses 0W30. I personally would never put in mine as it is designed strictly to bump mpg. The thing is there are different flavors of W30 or W40 oils. HTHS is what matters, not grade per se. In an engine that runs oil temperature 240-250 in regular driving , I would go oils that have HTHS above 3.5 (LL01 oils NOT LL01FE oils, which 0W30 TPT is).
Shell was supplier from 2014. From 02/2021 is Castrol.

I have only seen the oil temp gauge climb to 250 at the track/autocross. Daily driving when full warm is exactly in between the 160 and 250 degree marks, so appx 205. Perhaps the oil temps rise as the car cools down - but I do know the coolant circulates for about 10-15 min after shut down. I don't care about fuel mileage - so if that is why the car is running 0W30, then I have no issue changing. I just don't want to run the wrong weight and risk any damage. I live in CT if it matters. Cold winters, medium summers.

 

[edyvw]

I have only seen the oil temp gauge climb to 250 at the track/autocross. Daily driving when full warm is exactly in between the 160 and 250 degree marks, so appx 205. Perhaps the oil temps rise as the car cools down - but I do know the coolant circulates for about 10-15 min after shut down. I don't care about fuel mileage - so if that is why the car is running 0W30, then I have no issue changing. I just don't want to run the wrong weight and risk any damage. I live in CT if it matters. Cold winters, medium summers.

There is no approx. 160 degrees. 160 is when the temperature starts to go up. 160 is TOO cold for any engine, let alone S63. 240-250 is what should be. My N52 with no turbo's is running 230 oil temperature in regular driving.
The reason why it is running on track 250 and not more is that BMW went crazy on cooling capabilities on S63 as it is a hot running engine. That is why your pumps are working long after you turn off car. It is to mitigate issues know on N/S63 engines due to turbos being in the bay.
Engines in general can run ANY weight. There is no "too thick" of oil. But, for that particular engine, BMW recommended LL01 oil NOT LL01FE for a long time. Once BMW had to bump mpg to be CAFE compliant they moved engines to LL01FE and other approvals (covering 0W20 oils).
But your engine was always LL01, and still is on a lot of markets.
Another reason BMW particularly went to LL01FE on N63/S63 engines is short-distance driving. LL01FE works better if you drive very short distances where you do not warm up oil to operating temperature. Then LL01FE is a better choice. But, you track your car. On track forget W30 regardless of HTHS. Go XW40 LL01. If you are out of warranty, run Castrol 0W40 and forget it. Castrol 0W40 does not have anymore LL01 as BMW increased oxidation requirements for B generation engines. But for your engine as long as oil has MB229.5 and especially Porsche A40 since you track it, you are good to go.

 

[kschachn]

I just don't want to run the wrong weight and risk any damage. I live in CT if it matters. Cold winters, medium summers.

As edyvw has noted the only way you'll damage an engine is with an oil that is too thin or you're using an oil with a winter rating so inappropriate it cannot be pumped.

Pick a winter rating that is appropriate for your expected starting conditions, if you're starting unaided at temperatures below -35F then an oil with a 0W winter rating is correct. Anything above that a winter rating of 5W is equivalent.

 

[DgjoX6M2016]

There is no approx. 160 degrees. 160 is when the temperature starts to go up. 160 is TOO cold for any engine, let alone S63. 240-250 is what should be. My N52 with no turbo's is running 230 oil temperature in regular driving.
The reason why it is running on track 250 and not more is that BMW went crazy on cooling capabilities on S63 as it is a hot running engine. That is why your pumps are working long after you turn off car. It is to mitigate issues know on N/S63 engines due to turbos being in the bay.
Engines in general can run ANY weight. There is no "too thick" of oil. But, for that particular engine, BMW recommended LL01 oil NOT LL01FE for a long time. Once BMW had to bump mpg to be CAFE compliant they moved engines to LL01FE and other approvals (covering 0W20 oils).
But your engine was always LL01, and still is on a lot of markets.
Another reason BMW particularly went to LL01FE on N63/S63 engines is short-distance driving. LL01FE works better if you drive very short distances where you do not warm up oil to operating temperature. Then LL01FE is a better choice. But, you track your car. On track forget W30 regardless of HTHS. Go XW40 LL01. If you are out of warranty, run Castrol 0W40 and forget it. Castrol 0W40 does not have anymore LL01 as BMW increased oxidation requirements for B generation engines. But for your engine as long as oil has MB229.5 and especially Porsche A40 since you track it, you are good to go.

Great. Thanks. As an aside…what I meant by approximate is that my temp needle is pinned to the dot in between the 160 dot (where needle starts to moves) and the 250 degree dot (what I will see on track…never around town). So I extrapolate 205 around town. Maybe I should get a better oil temp and/or pressure gauge fitted.

I also have a n52 in our e91. Surprised it runs that toasty. Awesome engine. Revs so fast to 7k. Never seems to miss a beat.

 

[edyvw]

Great. Thanks. As an aside…what I meant by approximate is that my temp needle is pinned to the dot in between the 160 dot (where needle starts to moves) and the 250 degree dot (what I will see on track…never around town). So I extrapolate 205 around town. Maybe I should get a better oil temp and/or pressure gauge fitted.

I also have a n52 in our e91. Surprised it runs that toasty. Awesome engine. Revs so fast to 7k. Never seems to miss a beat.

That is way too low. Is that reading from the cluster?

 

[propellerhead78]

Very nice machine, that X6! I have noticed similar oil temps (205-215) with my car in normal driving, and I’ll say I have never seen it above 250 even on hard mountain runs. I suppose on track that would change. At the recommendation of a member here I decided not to run the Motul Specific 5w30FE in my M5 due to the lower HTHS number and I’ve avoided the FE oils altogether. Currently I have in the crankcase BMW TPT 5w30 which is LL01 and is a recommended viscosity for the car. I haven’t checked but BMWs switch back to Castrol means that their oil lineup will be a bit different, but I’m super happy with the Shell/Pennzoil they have used. Next change will be Castrol 0w40, then probably back to Motul Xcess Gen 2. Enjoy that car!

 

[DgjoX6M2016]

Very nice machine, that X6! I have noticed similar oil temps (205-215) with my car in normal driving, and I’ll say I have never seen it above 250 even on hard mountain runs. I suppose on track that would change. At the recommendation of a member here I decided not to run the Motul Specific 5w30FE in my M5 due to the lower HTHS number and I’ve avoided the FE oils altogether. Currently I have in the crankcase BMW TPT 5w30 which is LL01 and is a recommended viscosity for the car. I haven’t checked but BMWs switch back to Castrol means that their oil lineup will be a bit different, but I’m super happy with the Shell/Pennzoil they have used. Next change will be Castrol 0w40, then probably back to Motul Xcess Gen 2. Enjoy that car!

Good info! Thanks. And here is where my oil temp runs when full warm and not on track. Track hits the 250.

 

[DgjoX6M2016]

Full cluster. Better resolution.

 

[propellerhead78]

Looks about like mine. Snapped this on a 91deg day just as she hit 50k!

 

[edyvw]

OK, my best guestimate is that they are running a lower temperature oil thermostat to deal with issues that are related to heat in those engines. Makes sense when one thinks about problems N/S63 had before TU.

 

[edyvw]

Very nice machine, that X6! I have noticed similar oil temps (205-215) with my car in normal driving, and I’ll say I have never seen it above 250 even on hard mountain runs. I suppose on track that would change. At the recommendation of a member here I decided not to run the Motul Specific 5w30FE in my M5 due to the lower HTHS number and I’ve avoided the FE oils altogether. Currently I have in the crankcase BMW TPT 5w30 which is LL01 and is a recommended viscosity for the car. I haven’t checked but BMWs switch back to Castrol means that their oil lineup will be a bit different, but I’m super happy with the Shell/Pennzoil they have used. Next change will be Castrol 0w40, then probably back to Motul Xcess Gen 2. Enjoy that car!

Yeah, TPT 5W30 was exceptional oil. I would not bet on it with Castrol 5W30 version.
Castrol 0W40 sounds like a plan or Gen2.

 

[madeej11]

That is way too low. Is that reading from the cluster?

Looks like about 210 on the cluster photo

 

[930.engineering]

From this UOA I don't feel that much of a need for thicker oil. LL-01/LL-04 with HTHS 3,5 is fine though, just avoid LL-01 FE (HTHS 3,0mPа*s if I remember correctly). 2 ppm Cu and 6 ppm Al is just excellent and even 20 ppm Fe is still fairly good.
With 5000 mls OCIs and reduced sulphur gas I'd have no concerns running LL-04, which this engine is run with elsewhere anyway. Turbo GDI engines tend to love low-Noack mid-SAPS oils due to reduced CBU and LSPI risk (even though this engine isn't that prone to LSPI). If its LL-04 approval is going along with MB229.5 or 229.51 and/or Porsche C40/VW 511 00 - even better.

 

[edyvw]

From this UOA I don't feel that much of a need for thicker oil. LL-01/LL-04 with HTHS 3,5 is fine though, just avoid LL-01 FE (HTHS 3,0mPа*s if I remember correctly). 2 ppm Cu and 6 ppm Al is just excellent and even 20 ppm Fe is still fairly good.
With 5000 mls OCIs and reduced sulphur gas I'd have no concerns running LL-04, which this engine is run with elsewhere anyway. Turbo GDI engines tend to love low-Noack mid-SAPS oils due to reduced CBU and LSPI risk (even though this engine isn't that prone to LSPI). If its LL-04 approval is going along with MB229.5 or 229.51 and/or Porsche C40/VW 511 00 - even better.

Yeah, no need for overly thick oil. But HTHS 3.5cp IMO is minimum is these engines.
LSPI is not going to affect this engine.

 

[DgjoX6M2016]

Looks about like mine. Snapped this on a 91deg day just as she hit 50k!

I'm at 59k now and...knock on wood....zero issues. Dinan Stage 1, and want to make sure I do best I can with proper care. Thus this forum outreach.

Next stop is input on ATF fluid change. I don't buy that 'lifetime' fluid BS, but want to make sure this ZF8HP gearbox remains as sharp as possible.

Unfortunately I don't understand many of the acronyms used:

LSPI
Noack
SAPS
CBU (Carbon build up?)