2015 Odyssey Positive Battery Terminal replacement question

[JeffKeryk]

I have my nieces's 2015 Odyssey EX-L for 2 days and am checking it over. 197K on the clock.
Servicing battery terminal is part of my standard maintenance routine.
The positive battery terminal was lightly corroded; I have cleaned it in the past. I cleaned it and found the Honda OE strap type terminal has seen better days due to time and corrosion.

The positive terminal is enclosed with red plastic. I am not talking to the pop up cover. My question is, does the plastic pop off allowing for terminal replacement? Or is the replacement part an assembly that includes the plastic? Or is the terminal integrated with the cable requiring a complete cable assembly replacement?

Thanks in advance!

 

[eljefino]

If that were my car I'd trim that terminal cover back with some diagonal cutters until I could see what was going on.

 

[Nukeman7]

By the looks of your photo, you might be able to pry the square-shaped "tab" back on the left side and lift the right side plastic apart enough to pull out the terminal. I'd say that worse case, cut it apart with a Dremel tool since the terminal needs replacing anyway.

It is clear that the battery has the classic terminal seepage associated with Clarios/Johnson Controls manufactured lead-acid batteries.

 

[slo town]

I just replaced the positive cable on our Element. I ordered the Honda OEM one and is was identical in every little detail as the one that came from the factory.

The OEM one shown here for the Odyessy looks like it has that plastic piece and everything else. I have experience with this dealer. The transaction is easy, they ship fast, and everything is always packaged well.

Scott

https://www.hondapartsconnection.co...keXNzZXkmeT0yMDE1JnQ9ZXgtbCZlPTMtNWwtdjYtZ2Fz

 

[JeffKeryk]

Looks like the terminal comes as part of the complete cable assembly.
Why Honda why?

 

[bullwinkle]

By the looks of your photo, you might be able to pry the square-shaped "tab" back on the left side and lift the right side plastic apart enough to pull out the terminal. I'd say that worse case, cut it apart with a Dremel tool since the terminal needs replacing anyway.

It is clear that the battery has the classic terminal seepage associated with Clarios/Johnson Controls manufactured lead-acid batteries.

It’s worse on the Honda & Toyota positive terminals because the terminal cover traps the gases & acid underneath. The Corolla in my sig was corroded pretty heavily, but it cleaned up with baking soda & water. Couldn’t get that JC Clarios junk-*** battery out of it fast enough!

 

[oldcodger]

I like the ones Nissan uses. The actual terminal connector is removable and can be replaced very easily. I would look at maybe adapting a Nissan one to fit.

 

[JeffKeryk]

The best thing about replacing the cable is that corrosion creeps up the copper wire. Sneak attack!

 

[f355spider]

The best thing about replacing the cable is that corrosion creeps up the copper wire. Sneak attack!

I've seen that in various applications. I've repinned Bosch Junior Timer connections and after depinning the connector, and cut off the pins and strip the insulation back, I am surprised to find corrosion on the wire....sometimes you have to trim back a couple inches or even more to get to clean wire. In a few rare instances I don't have enough to wire to cut off (may be a large auto engine loom) so I just wire brush and use contact cleaner to get it as good as I can, before repinning and assembling the connector.

But yes, if given the option, new cable and connector is better and completely resets the clock.

 

[JHZR2]

TBH it doesn’t look THAT bad. Assuming you can pull it and wire brush it, and it looks ok… and the interior circumference isn’t pitted, I’d probably keep running it. I’d work a baking soda paste over everything, and coat most surfaces besides the inner circumference and battery post with dielectric grease. That includes under those pads (I never run them) at the metal post to plastic case interface, and on top of the post after tightening.

 

[JeffKeryk]

TBH it doesn’t look THAT bad. Assuming you can pull it and wire brush it, and it looks ok… and the interior circumference isn’t pitted, I’d probably keep running it. I’d work a baking soda paste over everything, and coat most surfaces besides the inner circumference and battery post with dielectric grease. That includes under those pads (I never run them) at the metal post to plastic case interface, and on top of the post after tightening.

Thank you @JHZR2
I did clean up the terminal and battery but had limited time. I will complete your guidance next time she is over.