2015 Ford 6.2 4x4

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Hey guys new to the ford lots of useful information on here I'm a big fan. So here is what I've got, I've always ran diesel pickups I've had 3 7.3's,4 6.0's, and 2 6.7's, always had good luck and I drive a lot close 2 200,000 miles every 2 years, Whats the best oil to run in this 6.2 to achieve 200,000 miles I'm a certified preowned car dealer and I deliver vehicles to clients as well as I pick up vehicles at dealerships, generally i tow anywhere from 11,000 to 19,000 miles so the truck will get pushed to its limits at times. Thanks for all the helpful advise Colton.
 
Use what ford specs, change maybe every 3000 to 5000 miles or what is recommended for heavy towing. And if you can run analysis on a sample
 
Originally Posted By: Fordbossguy
Ford specs are 5w-20 synthetic.


No Ford does not for the 6.2 F250. Any API/SN ISLAC 5W20 will satisfy requirements. If you want 200K just change the oil every 5-7.5K and the engine will be the last major component that fails.
 
Okay awesome, Ford told me that's what I need to run in it because it was ford specs but there probably just trying to get me to spend more money. I'm coming up on 3 thousand miles what would you go back with synthetic or petro for the first few changes?
 
Welcome to the site!

I've not got too much data on the 6.2L engine, but I see no reason not to simply follow the Ford rec's here. Does the vehicle not have an IOLM? Use a lube meeting Ford's spec, follow the IOLM, and don't worry about it.


(moved to PCMO - mod)
 
Any quality recommended rated oil. Be a wild and crazy guy and run Mobil 1 oil it can't hurt.
 
My dads raptor has this engine. For his truck, the OM specifies at least a blend. Ill have to recheck though.

I used to run Pennzoil Platinum and Mobil 1, but will start using MC 5w20 blend once my stash of clearance'd Castrol synblend from Autozone runs out. Just follow the oil life monitor and you'll be golden.
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
My dads raptor has this engine. For his truck, the OM specifies at least a blend. Ill have to recheck though.

I used to run Pennzoil Platinum and Mobil 1, but will start using MC 5w20 blend once my stash of clearance'd Castrol synblend from Autozone runs out. Just follow the oil life monitor and you'll be golden.


Doesn't a raptor have a twin screw bolted to the top,which makes the comparo inapplicable.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
My dads raptor has this engine. For his truck, the OM specifies at least a blend. Ill have to recheck though.

I used to run Pennzoil Platinum and Mobil 1, but will start using MC 5w20 blend once my stash of clearance'd Castrol synblend from Autozone runs out. Just follow the oil life monitor and you'll be golden.


Doesn't a raptor have a twin screw bolted to the top,which makes the comparo inapplicable.


She's naturally aspirated.

*Supercharger kits are available though.
smile.gif


http://www.roushperformance.com/vehicles/raptor-2013.html
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
My dads raptor has this engine. For his truck, the OM specifies at least a blend. Ill have to recheck though.

I used to run Pennzoil Platinum and Mobil 1, but will start using MC 5w20 blend once my stash of clearance'd Castrol synblend from Autozone runs out. Just follow the oil life monitor and you'll be golden.


Doesn't a raptor have a twin screw bolted to the top,which makes the comparo inapplicable.


She's naturally aspirated.

*Supercharger kits are available though.
smile.gif


http://www.roushperformance.com/vehicles/raptor-2013.html


Huh.

I thought they were all boosted. Weren't the first ones all boosted. I coulda sworn........

Thanks for straightening me out.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
My dads raptor has this engine. For his truck, the OM specifies at least a blend. Ill have to recheck though.

I used to run Pennzoil Platinum and Mobil 1, but will start using MC 5w20 blend once my stash of clearance'd Castrol synblend from Autozone runs out. Just follow the oil life monitor and you'll be golden.


Doesn't a raptor have a twin screw bolted to the top,which makes the comparo inapplicable.


She's naturally aspirated.

*Supercharger kits are available though.
smile.gif


http://www.roushperformance.com/vehicles/raptor-2013.html


Huh.

I thought they were all boosted. Weren't the first ones all boosted. I coulda sworn........

Thanks for straightening me out.


The first ones had the 5.4 which was the largest complaint about the whole truck aside from the bent frame rails from the rookies in the Raptor Run.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
My dads raptor has this engine. For his truck, the OM specifies at least a blend. Ill have to recheck though.

I used to run Pennzoil Platinum and Mobil 1, but will start using MC 5w20 blend once my stash of clearance'd Castrol synblend from Autozone runs out. Just follow the oil life monitor and you'll be golden.


Doesn't a raptor have a twin screw bolted to the top,which makes the comparo inapplicable.


She's naturally aspirated.

*Supercharger kits are available though.
smile.gif


http://www.roushperformance.com/vehicles/raptor-2013.html


Huh.

I thought they were all boosted. Weren't the first ones all boosted. I coulda sworn........

Thanks for straightening me out.


You might be mixing the Raptor up with the second gen Lightning, which is a pure street truck. All '99-'03 Lightnings were supercharged.

I'd probably run any name brand synthetic 5W20 in the OP's 6.2 for the duration of the warranty. Depending on how much of a beating the truck gets, I might step up to a heavier weight, but maybe not.

Totally different engine in every way, but when I started towing with my Ranger a lot, sometimes after a hilly highway run in the summer (engine coolant temps close to 200*F all the time, not sure on oil temp), the oil pressure warning needle, can't call it a gauge, would flicker at idle. Synthetic 30 weights (either 5W30 or 0W30) put a stop to that and the engine hasn't seen a 20 weight since. My engine was designed in the 1980s and originally spec'd 10W30 oil though. The 6.2 was developed almost a decade after Ford started using 5W20.
 
I ended up buying castrol edge full synthetic in 5w-20 with a motorcraft oil filter. Guys at the dealership told me they would rather see me run the castrol over motorcraft so that's what I bought.
 
Sounds like there is a Castrol fan at that dealership. I don't know why they'd suggest it over Motorcraft (aside from the Castrol being synthetic), but there's no harm either way. Ford gas engines are not super picky.
 
Two of the ford service techs told me they had good luck with the 6.2 and castrol edge synthetic, I hope I made a good choice because the Powertrain of this truck will see some use. I've never owned a gas 3/4 ton but it sounds like the motor is about to come out of the hood when your towing 15,000 pounds, I'm tired of all the maintaince of the diesel motor I had a 6.7 cummins right after my last power stroke that I put 23,000 miles on and had to have a short block replaced. I figured I can rebuild a gas motor for what I can replace a set of injectors in a diesel. Wish me the best of luck with this beast. Thanks for all the advice everyone much appreciated.
 
Ford build a quality gas engine and there's millions of examples that prove that. So I wouldn't worry about it.
Gas engines are built to spin,unlike a diesel. And Ford seems to like the dohc heads which don't really turn on until it starts spinning.
And remember that as the engine gains rpm the oil film becomes thicker and the bearings spin a tighter circle which eliminates contact thus eliminates wear.
Nordic spends countless millions testing and torturing their products so that in the field they can be counted on to do what they say it can do. If not you end up with a ridgeline instead of a truck.
So get out there and run er. It was built for hauling,pulling and screaming with a load on. Unless you habitually operate the vehicle in excess of its designed capabilities I'm confident the wheels will fall off before the engine fails b
However I suggest if buying a tuning device you acquire a tune that doesn't defeat or in any way dampens the knock sensor function. It's the only line of defence against pre-ignition and if the sensors are in any way defeated or their sensitivity compromised the possibility exists that the rear cylinders may pre-ignite because of a lack of heat control and the outcome isn't pretty.
Do your homework and ask questions. You are on the hook for their actions so you'll want to be informed no matter which way you go.
Great truck. Awesome engine.
 
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