I recently inherited a 2014 Yaris. It's gonna become my daily to go to work. It's got 40k miles and I'm wondering if I should replace shocks/springs/suspension parts simply due to age. I've already done a AT fluid/filter change. As well as a dump/fill of coolant, and brake fluid.
2014 Yaris. New to me, what to do?
- Thread starter northestPM
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I probably would not do them proactively unless there is some compelling evidence that they are worn out. What you have done already is great and should help it last a very long time. I'd check the condition of the battery. That's something I always do right away whenever getting a used vehicle.
When installing the Raybestos reman, the caliper would not slide over the pads even through the piston was fully depressed, it looked like the bottom slide pin was longer than OEM. I used my OEM upper slide pin (which has some black ring on it), which seems to work fine. Is that ok? Pulled the boot out of the caliper and count not get it to go in as good as it was originally.
I forgot/didn't notice these little black clips that were included in the hardware kit. I installed the normal 4 typical stainless brackets/shims. I noticed on the OEM caliper that there were 2 of these little clips only on the top of the pads on each side. What are these and are they necessary? I now notice when I tap the brakes there is a "clack sound" sometimes.
I forgot/didn't notice these little black clips that were included in the hardware kit. I installed the normal 4 typical stainless brackets/shims. I noticed on the OEM caliper that there were 2 of these little clips only on the top of the pads on each side. What are these and are they necessary? I now notice when I tap the brakes there is a "clack sound" sometimes.
Nothing, just drive it.
Right! Toyota shocks/struts are typically better than most. You may not have to replace the shocks/struts for a very long time. Same for tie rods & ball joints. They're just better than many others makes in this dept.
Those are the wear indicators.
"clack sound" means something is loose or not working as it was intended.
Also if you could not get the boot back properly, or if it is ripped or damaged, water or other stuff may get in there and eventually cause issues.
Since I'm not an expert or a real mechanic, I would fix these issues if I was doing a brake job. Experts may disagree.
Some fancy brake parts, pads or rotors are not sold by the dealer but I don't use or need them. I once bought stuff from a local auto parts store and had couple of issues (proper fit, quality, etc.) and wasted 2 or 3 days to resolve and got replacement from the store. After that experience, I only order from the dealer. More expensive but never had any issues and always a perfect fit. Dealer parts could come from the same factory ... who knows, but I think they may have a better quality control. Again, since I'm not a real mechanic and may do a brake job every 3-5 years, I try to eliminate or reduce any variance and buy the brake parts from the dealer. However, I'll never buy oil from the dealer. They also only sell 0W-20 and that's never gonna happen.
Also if you could not get the boot back properly, or if it is ripped or damaged, water or other stuff may get in there and eventually cause issues.
Since I'm not an expert or a real mechanic, I would fix these issues if I was doing a brake job. Experts may disagree.
Some fancy brake parts, pads or rotors are not sold by the dealer but I don't use or need them. I once bought stuff from a local auto parts store and had couple of issues (proper fit, quality, etc.) and wasted 2 or 3 days to resolve and got replacement from the store. After that experience, I only order from the dealer. More expensive but never had any issues and always a perfect fit. Dealer parts could come from the same factory ... who knows, but I think they may have a better quality control. Again, since I'm not a real mechanic and may do a brake job every 3-5 years, I try to eliminate or reduce any variance and buy the brake parts from the dealer. However, I'll never buy oil from the dealer. They also only sell 0W-20 and that's never gonna happen.
From someone who did brakes as a very big part of his bread and butter: when you find a slight issue with your brakes the time to fix it properly was yesterday. It's not going to fix itself and is going to cost more the longer you wait (extra brake wear, more fuel consumption, tyre wear or even more parts in the brake system degrading). Rebuilding a caliper is easy, all you really need is to shedule some time. And from what I read on here, rebuilding makes more sense than buying a reman that's gonna fail in another year or 2.
Be sure to use 5W30 in it, don't believe the 0W20 "back spec" that Toyota tossed out a few years back. The 1NZFE might be one of the best small car engines ever-keep SLLC or even another P-HOAT coolant in it, make sure your belts, hoses & radiator are in good condition. Keep it from rusting by spraying it, it may outlive you! (And fix the brakes correctly...)
No IMHO. I had a 2007 Yaris a few years ago with 4 times that mileage and everything aged well; excellent car for commuting and bulletproof engine
Toyota built excellent small cars.
My previous toyota, an echo, had the same motor and lasted to over 400K miles.
Maybe just a trans spill and fill and a radiator drain and that's it.
I've got 334k on my 05 GMC with tons of original suspension parts including all 4 shocks. What shocks are there to change on a 9 year young car with just 40k with no issues.
I've got 334k on my 05 GMC with tons of original suspension parts including all 4 shocks. What shocks are there to change on a 9 year young car with just 40k with no issues.
so are they needed?
They prevent pads from rattling, vibration and unwanted contact with the rotors. Also keeps the pads gliding smoothly and prevents binding. It's a very necessary and needed part. My kit from the dealer came with new clips which I replaced.
There are lots of helpful videos on YouTube which will provide better understanding of the brake system and/or functionality of different parts.
There are lots of helpful videos on YouTube which will provide better understanding of the brake system and/or functionality of different parts.
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exactly !!!!
"Just drive it" would be excellent advice. Though, to make 100% sure, put it on a ramp. Check the underbody for rust and such, and at the same time, any suspension wear such as leaking struts, torn bushes or bump stops, or worn ball joints or anything else should be apparent. That much of a suspension issue would make itself felt in the driving well before you got it up on a ramp though.
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