2014 Ford Fusion Ecoboost 1.5L 0w-20 Amsoil SS

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Originally Posted By: oilboy123
I have 218K miles on my 98 Taurus. Been doing long drain 13-15K runs for probably the last 120K. I had the pan, timing cover, and valve covers off about 20K miles ago. It was pretty darn clean.

I say keep on keeping on.........


Your engine has nothing in common with this engine, so its irrelevant to be honest. The 3.0 in the Taurus, especially the Vulcan is one of the easiest engines on oil in the world, i know i own one. It's a low output OHV engine with a decent sized sump. The Duratec isn't as easy as the Vulcan, but still pretty mundane compared to the boost, with port fuel injection.

These ecoboost engines are a much more harsh environment for motor oil!
 
Looks like the wear numbers are staying low, so you can at least keep running 14-15k.
I'd say it held up pretty well with over 14k in a turbo charged engine.
 
what is it that makes the oil get thicker is it because of the additives in the oil wear out and exposure to oxygen over time causes this?
 
http://www.macallister.com/187/oil-condition-analysis.htm

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Soot

Soot is found only in engine oil. It is the insoluble residue of partially burned fuel. It is held in suspension by the oil additive package and causes engine oil to turn black. When soot drops out of suspension in the oil, it contributes to additive depletion and eventually increases oil viscosity. Heavy concentrations of soot can cause bearing damage by starving contact surfaces of lubrication.

Oxidation

Oxidation occurs in transmission, hydraulic and engine oils when oxygen molecules chemically join with oil molecules. This chemical reaction is accelerated by high oil temperatures, glycol contamination from engine coolant, the presence of copper, and from extended oil change intervals. Oxidation causes the oil to thicken, form acids, and lose lubrication qualities, which threatens the life of your components. Oxidized oil will cause deposits on engine pistons and valves, stuck rings, and bore polishing. In hydraulic systems and transmissions, it can cause valve scuffing and sticking.

Nitration Products

Nitration occurs in all engine oils, but is generally only a problem in natural gas engines. Nitrogen compounds from the combustion process thicken the oil and reduce its lubricating ability. If nitration continues unchecked, it can result in filter plugging, heavy piston deposits, lacquering of valves and pistons, and eventual failure.


So, Amsoil's basestock normally start with a higher TAN and TBN. So, there is a measure of oxidation resistance, but it's not so much if another oil would do better, but more like what is your engine going to do to 'any' oil with the current long-highway mileage. Normally, this is considered fine for the OCIs and is probably the most you will get out of any oil at this current service for this application.

If you short-tripped more, but got less mileage as fast you could run longer in time, but short-tripping will also bring the TBN down in quick fashion.

Again, this could be from the ecoboost / fuel setup. I'm not very familiar with this application. I recall vaguely a few years ago there were several DI engines getting fuel dilution and shearing the oil some, but you didn't have that in your case.

I would 'most' be concerned if oxidation lead to the point where enough deposits would cause problems for the Ecoboost's long-term functionality?

As long as you use a capable extended performance oil filter and keep intervals at this cap you are probably fine. For peace of mind, you could once a year run an idle oil flush or use a top-end combustion chamber cleaner. Most concern with oxidation is the deposits and it's essentially the oil saying, "Hi, I'm starting to get beyond my limits of holding this crud in suspension". If that makes sense. The length from the point this UOA is to the point deposits are / would become an issue I do not know. It's only a dynamic understanding, but monitoring soot / insols is a good start, IMO. TAN is a number to note, but with Amsoil recall it starts higher than most other oils and generally speaking that's why TBN is more reliable. Oil's capability vs. inconclusive random TAN without data points to infer anything off of that itself. Enter the insols / soot.
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Besides, the numbers look great otherwise. At least the oil isn't shearing, etc. You just might have a tad more deposits from longer continuous duty cycles if the oil is actually letting them go?
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Thanks for the info I was just looking at amsoil bypass setup and noticed it claims to filter soot in the oil I'm considering buying a bypass kit especially if it will benefit my application.
 
If you are trying to milk the oil out a ways a good bypass will keep the contaminants out of suspension, and extend the drain intervals. How far is the question. Amsoil oils used to thicken up with long drain intervals in the past. Which was not necessarily the worst thing.
Originally Posted By: Bldavis22
Thanks for the info I was just looking at amsoil bypass setup and noticed it claims to filter soot in the oil I'm considering buying a bypass kit especially if it will benefit my application.
 
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^Right, it's only when it actually begins to leave behind more deposits, etc. It's apparently still doing it's job despite thickening if we consider the low soot readings in the UOA. TBN is still good enough. (not sure if this lab uses the condemnation of 1 like B_S or of 2 TBN, it's quite possible this OCI is at the limit in a more complete sense if that were the case)
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However, this doesn't 'necessarily' conclude the extended interval isn't leaving behind something. I'd be more concerned if this were over a longer period of time. A 4 month OCI on Amsoil with a large portion by far being highway.

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IMO this oil was at the end of it's life. The miles were put on quickly and mostly rural driving. Very easy on the oil. I have gotten similar results with a mix of cheap synthetic and conventional oil. I would try a house brand synthetic and run for the same amount of time/miles. Perform a UOA and that oil and see how it compares. I really thought amsoil would have done better.
 
Excellent work getting value from your oil. So many on this board run their premium syn and filters for ~5k.

Nice looking engine... I guess turbos can do extended intervals... just not all turbos
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One thing I noticed on amsoils site about signature series oil is that with turbo or super chargers the suggested limit is 15k. I was looking into Mobil 1 ep to determine what there suggested limit for cars that have turbo chargers but don't see it or could be I just can't find it.
 
Lol as usual, Amsoil flexes its muscles a little bit and some people immediately start screaming "m1"! Oh, that's just so silly hahaha.
Op, run amsoil 0w30. It will serve you even better.
 
Looks like a good report to me. Try to add a couple thousand miles and report back... Hmmm, I sound like blackstone there.
 
TBN is very low. This doesnt look like Blackstone report and most labs use the other method where 2.0 is extremely low.
 
Originally Posted By: zach1900
Oil doesn't wear out. Additives do though.
Actually it does. oil oxidizes. Close enough to be considered worn out.
 
Originally Posted By: Bldavis22
Thanks for the info I was just looking at amsoil bypass setup and noticed it claims to filter soot in the oil I'm considering buying a bypass kit especially if it will benefit my application.

A bypass setup may help but i would suggest getting one or 2 more oil analysis before deciding. Something unusual may have happened for this oil to get old that fast. Who knows. A bypass filter doesnt prevent the oil from thickening or thinning. I do not think your oil is too thick. Amsoil 0w20 ss starts at 8.7 and yours is 9.7. It moved one point, thats not terribly significant. Your TBN is surprisingly low and i dont think a bypass filter would help that unless you get one of those fancy ones that burn off your fuel dilution and glycol and any water in the oil. That would keep your oxidation numbers down and the tbn up but i believe you would have to keep that ecoboost a long time for it to pay off moneywise. I have a bypass filter and dont regret it, but its not beneficial to everyone.
*just an edit: i missed the part that you have a turbo. Not quite so surprising that the oil didnt last as long. A bypass filter would increase your sump capacity which extends oci's itself, (you just use the same amount of oil in the end) but if you are working the turbo a bunch the increased capacity and cooling could stabilize your oil temperatures more if the turbo is heating it too much. That would depend on how well your car already manages heat spikes and if that is contributing to your oil not lasting very long.
 
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