2014 BMW 535D 119.5k mi; T6 5W-40 7.5k mi

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Hello! I am a long-time reader, first time poster! Here is my first oil report with a new Frantz bypass filter on my Diesel BMW. I am happy to see that it is obviously making a difference!

BMW oil.webp
 
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@BMWTurboDzl - Iron is lower, Sodium and Silicon are lower. This is the second oil change using T6, Liquid Moly before that. Maybe I don't know what I am looking at but this seems like great results to me. Maybe it is due to other things besides bypass filter?
 
@BMWTurboDzl - Iron is lower, Sodium and Silicon are lower. This is the second oil change using T6, Liquid Moly before that. Maybe I don't know what I am looking at but this seems like great results to me. Maybe it is due to other things besides bypass filter?
Sodium has nothing to do with the filtration. Silicon would largely be part of your air filtration or a wash-out of some sealant residue over time.

Lower iron might be due to several factors other than filtration, it is impossible to tell from a simple spectrographic analysis such as this. It's not dramatically different, and given the inconsistences we've seen on Blackstone UOA it might not be significant at all.
 
Well, I am impressed. which doesn't mean a whole lot, I guess. You are running a BMW with over 100k on it that didn't need any fill oil in 7,500 miles! From what I have read, at that age they leak 2-3 quarts on the garage floor in that time! LOL! Your UOA numbers look really good. I used Liqui Moly Mos2 oil additve in a 2015 Honda CRV I bought new. It developed a VVT actuator ratlle at around 60,000 miles, I could have spent a few hundred on it to have it fixed right, but I tried the Mos2 Liqui Moly first. It stopped the rattle. Anyhow, that may be the only "mechanic in a can" stuff that actually did what I was hoping for. Anyhow, your UOA looks good.
 
OK, let's repeat this again: UOA is NOT analysis of used engine, but used oil!
So:
1. We are missing TBN and TAN. Oil sits at exactly 14cst. Exactly??? That is new one. But let's say KV100 is 14cst, that means there is some oxidative thickening going on. T6 is made for large sumps, it has cheaper base stocks, and will have higher Noack than Liqui Moly used previously. It will also dump more sulfated ash into DPF.
2. In s second sample, Zinc stands at 1311ppm? Phosphorus 1150? What is that? There is no Liqui Moly with such high Zinc and there is no way any European manufacturer will approve oil with such high zinc level. Was something added to that oil during run? And KV100 is 11.76, which tells me something was added?
3. Wear metals, unless we see huge dramatic spike, could be consequence of various issues: cold starts, more city driving etc.

Strictly looking at oil, for what UOA is designed for, I cannot believe I will say this, but Liqui Moly did better.
 
OK, let's repeat this again: UOA is NOT analysis of used engine, but used oil!
So:
1. We are missing TBN and TAN. Oil sits at exactly 14cst. Exactly??? That is new one. But let's say KV100 is 14cst, that means there is some oxidative thickening going on. T6 is made for large sumps, it has cheaper base stocks, and will have higher Noack than Liqui Moly used previously. It will also dump more sulfated ash into DPF.
2. In s second sample, Zinc stands at 1311ppm? Phosphorus 1150? What is that? There is no Liqui Moly with such high Zinc and there is no way any European manufacturer will approve oil with such high zinc level. Was something added to that oil during run? And KV100 is 11.76, which tells me something was added?
3. Wear metals, unless we see huge dramatic spike, could be consequence of various issues: cold starts, more city driving etc.

Strictly looking at oil, for what UOA is designed for, I cannot believe I will say this, but Liqui Moly did better.
I agree with edyvw. Get the recommended engine oil for your exact BMW car off the Liqui Moly website and use that instead of the Rotella T6. Of course, I am kind of a Liqui Moly fan, where edyvw is not. While you are at it, add a can of the Liqui Moly Mos2, follow the directions on the additive. I will cost an extra 10 bucks, may or may not help. It helped me in the past. I have found you can get some decent prices on the different Liqui Moly oils and products off of Amazon.com. Just Sayin.
 
I agree with edyvw. Get the recommended engine oil for your exact BMW car off the Liqui Moly website and use that instead of the Rotella T6. Of course, I am kind of a Liqui Moly fan, where edyvw is not. While you are at it, add a can of the Liqui Moly Mos2, follow the directions on the additive. I will cost an extra 10 bucks, may or may not help. It helped me in the past.
Why? Is there something he is trying to address?
 
Why? Is there something he is trying to address?
No, I don't think so. The Mos2 won't hurt anything, with exception of the $10.00 cost I guess. It has helped me in the past. Actually, what I was most impressed with, if you read my earlier comments is the that his BMW with over 100,000 miles on it didn't need top off in 7500 miles! According to what I have read about BMW in the past, they would leak 2-3 quarts on the garage floor in that amount of time! That is an exaggeration of course, but they are known to be leakers at that milage. If I was going to recommend a LM additive, it probably should be their "Motor Oil Saver" additive. It has stuff in it that helps with softening up gaskets and valve seals to slow down the starting or progression of leaks. Ultimately, Kiarny was pleased with his new installation of his Frantz oil bypass filter. I didn't realize they were still out there. I used to be an OTR trucker. I owned and drove my own trucks. I had a new Volvo 3 axle tractor truck custom built and had a bypass filter installed at the factory called a "Spinner II". The Spinner II is the only experience I have had with bypass oil filters. I had a Detroit Diesel Series 60 put in it. I wore that truck out. It was a good one. Anyhow edyvw, I like Liqui Moly stuff, I am aware there is better oils out there. Heck, he could probably use Castrol Edge Euro or Mobil 1 Euro and be better off than using the Shell Rotella T6. As far as his Frantz filter goes, it probably won't hurt anything either, IMO.
 
No, I don't think so. The Mos2 won't hurt anything, with exception of the $10.00 cost I guess. It has helped me in the past. Actually, what I was most impressed with, if you read my earlier comments is the that his BMW with over 100,000 miles on it didn't need top off in 7500 miles! According to what I have read about BMW in the past, they would leak 2-3 quarts on the garage floor in that amount of time! That is an exaggeration of course, but they are known to be leakers at that milage. If I was going to recommend a LM additive, it probably should be their "Motor Oil Saver" additive. It has stuff in it that helps with softening up gaskets and valve seals to slow down the starting or progression of leaks. Ultimately, Kiarny was pleased with his new installation of his Frantz oil bypass filter. I didn't realize they were still out there. I used to be an OTR trucker. I owned and drove my own trucks. I had a new Volvo 3 axle tractor truck custom built and had a bypass filter installed at the factory called a "Spinner II". The Spinner II is the only experience I have had with bypass oil filters. I had a Detroit Diesel Series 60 put in it. I wore that truck out. It was a good one. Anyhow edyvw, I like Liqui Moly stuff, I am aware there is better oils out there. Heck, he could probably use Castrol Edge Euro or Mobil 1 Euro and be better off than using the Shell Rotella T6. As far as his Frantz filter goes, it probably won't hurt anything either, IMO.
That would be news for my BMW with 155,000mls that has at least 10,000 track miles.
 
WOW, no leaks ever, or you are really good about keeping up on stuff. Also, what do you run in you BMW foe engine oil? Just curious.
At 105,000, it had a wet spot on the oil pan gasket (never leaked onto the floor or belly pan).
I changed it as I was doing a suspension refresh, some upgrades for track purposes.
VCG never had a leak. I changed VC because I broke brake line when I was upgrading brakes to Brembo from f30 335. I had to take out the VC to access the brake line support, so I put in a new VC.
I run current Motul X-Cess 5W40 GEN2, before that Castrol Edge 0W30, before that Motul 300V 5W40, before that Motul X-Cess 5W40, before that Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40, Castrol Edge 0W30, Castrol Edge 0W40, Mobil1 0W40. On track always 40 grade.

I had several M57 diesels. They never leaked. I had 525d E61 in EUrope that made some 483,000km. No leaks (diesels run much cooler). I had in US 2013 X5 35d. Always Mobil1 ESP 5W30, once or twice Valvoline 5W40 MST European Vehicle (LL04. That oil is no longer available).
One of the reasons why I think VCG is good on my 328 E90 is that I have oil cooler from 335 that keeps oil temperature in check. I changed for example, OFHG at 105,000 miles when installing OFH from 335i and no hint of a leak 50k later. I would say that is due to the radiator-type oil cooler.
 
At 105,000, it had a wet spot on the oil pan gasket (never leaked onto the floor or belly pan).
I changed it as I was doing a suspension refresh, some upgrades for track purposes.
VCG never had a leak. I changed VC because I broke brake line when I was upgrading brakes to Brembo from f30 335. I had to take out the VC to access the brake line support, so I put in a new VC.
I run current Motul X-Cess 5W40 GEN2, before that Castrol Edge 0W30, before that Motul 300V 5W40, before that Motul X-Cess 5W40, before that Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40, Castrol Edge 0W30, Castrol Edge 0W40, Mobil1 0W40. On track always 40 grade.

I had several M57 diesels. They never leaked. I had 525d E61 in EUrope that made some 483,000km. No leaks (diesels run much cooler). I had in US 2013 X5 35d. Always Mobil1 ESP 5W30, once or twice Valvoline 5W40 MST European Vehicle (LL04. That oil is no longer available).
One of the reasons why I think VCG is good on my 328 E90 is that I have oil cooler from 335 that keeps oil temperature in check. I changed for example, OFHG at 105,000 miles when installing OFH from 335i and no hint of a leak 50k later. I would say that is due to the radiator-type oil cooler.
Man, you don't mess around when it comes to oil. I have read and heard a lot of BMW oil leak stuff, never owned one myself. It could just be posted by BMW haters or something. I drove one up in Omaha when I was thinking of buying a new 335I. I could have swung it, but the wife wasn't all in because " I really don't think we need to be making house payments on a new car". That is an exact quote. Anyhow, I thought about it, and backed out. In my simple little 2025 Toyota RAV4 it currently has 0w-16 Schaeffer 9000 with the infamous can of Liqui Moly Mos2 you love so much. LOL. I am probably switching to Castrol GTX full synthetic 0w-20 next. It is on my local Walmart shelf and is the thickest of all the 0w-20 API rated Castrol oils at 9. Anyhow, my Schaeffer's is a pain in the butt to go get.
 
Man, you don't mess around when it comes to oil. I have read and heard a lot of BMW oil leak stuff, never owned one myself. It could just be posted by BMW haters or something. I drove one up in Omaha when I was thinking of buying a new 335I. I could have swung it, but the wife wasn't all in because " I really don't think we need to be making house payments on a new car". That is an exact quote. Anyhow, I thought about it, and backed out. In my simple little 2025 Toyota RAV4 it currently has 0w-16 Schaeffer 9000 with the infamous can of Liqui Moly Mos2 you love so much. LOL. I am probably switching to Castrol GTX full synthetic 0w-20 next. It is on my local Walmart shelf and is the thickest of all the 0w-20 API rated Castrol oils at 9. Anyhow, my Schaeffer's is a pain in the butt to go get.
BMW does require some TLC. It is all about preventive maintenance. They also run HOT! More heat, more efficiency, power. But mine does everything: takes kids to school, daycare, me to office, groceries, skiing 1-2 times a week, track. I have Sequoia, for family stuff only.
 
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