2013 F-150 3.5 Ecoboost Motul 8100 Eco Lite 5w-30, 5690 mile OCI

[thirdgenlxi]

What's up everyone.... First post here and just wanted to get some opinions on how this looks. It sounds good from the comments, but y'all know a lot more about what all these numbers mean than I do.

Truck just turned 300k miles on original engine..... Still runs like new. 2013 F-150 3.5 Ecoboost..... 301,202 miles at sample. Running Motul 8100 Eco Lite 5w-30 + BG MOA and WIX filter. 5,690 miles on this oil sample

Thanks for any input

 

[wpod]

300,000 miles ! This is BITOG and turbo engines don't last that long. Excellent results.

 

[kschachn]

What's up everyone.... First post here and just wanted to get some opinions on how this looks. It sounds good from the comments, but y'all know a lot more about what all these numbers mean than I do.

Truck just turned 300k miles on original engine..... Still runs like new. 2013 F-150 3.5 Ecoboost..... 301,202 miles at sample. Running Motul 8100 Eco Lite 5w-30 + BG MOA and WIX filter. 5,690 miles on this oil sample

Thanks for any input

Actually it doesn't mean a whole lot at all in regards to the oil. But in relation to your engine and operating conditions it seems fine.

Don't trust the fuel numbers, Blackstone's method of estimating fuel dilution is not accurate.

 

[fantastic]

Very good! Did you put on the 300k? Oil lab testing looks great for that mileage & I'll assume plenty of highway time.

 

[thirdgenlxi]

Very good! Did you put on the 300k? Oil lab testing looks great for that mileage & I'll assume plenty of highway time.

No I bought it used in 2019 with 160k from the original owner. It was an older guy that took very good care of it.... He had it dealer serviced every 5000 miles since new. It's still a very clean truck and runs/drives like new, so I plan on keeping it for as long as it'll stay going, lol. It's been an extremely reliable truck..... I'd still trust to to drive anywhere

 

[CKN]

And there was a recent thread on "turbo longevity". This thread should be linked!

 

[thirdgenlxi]

And there was a recent thread on "turbo longevity". This thread should be linked!

Oh yea? I'll have to check it out. Both original turbos here and doing just fine

 

[TiGeo]

300,000 miles ! This is BITOG and turbo engines don't last that long. Excellent results.

get off my lawn/tuRBO caRS dON't laST crew crying right now

 

[thirdgenlxi]

get off my lawn crew crying right now

Hahahah Change is definitely hard for some

 

[dnewton3]

The UOA itself is showing decent wear trends; very good.

As for the longevity of this truck, it's impressive. And also anecdotal; no precedent is set by seeing one high-mileage turbo engine.

 

[TiGeo]

As for the longevity of this truck, it's impressive. And also anecdotal; no precedent is set by seeing one high-mileage turbo engine.

Of course. But worrying about longevity by many here is also primarily anecdotal and baseless

 

[rodinator1234]

So much smack has been talked about these engines, this is really interesting.

Do you know if the cam phasers are original? Timing chain guides/tensioners? Anything about the maintenance history? Coolant flushes? How's the transmission?

 

[thirdgenlxi]

So much smack has been talked about these engines, this is really interesting.

Do you know if the cam phasers are original? Timing chain guides/tensioners? Anything about the maintenance history? Coolant flushes? How's the transmission?

Outside of a few common quirks, they're actually solid engines when properly cared for. They're just very sensitive to religious maintenance

I did do the timing chain and cam phasers at 178k for the startup rattle..... I went ahead and did the guides and tensioner as well while I was in there. That's been the only bigger thing to go wrong.... Only other engine related issue was a small oil leak from the vacuum pump seal.... New gasket and she was good. I flushed the coolant shortly after I got it..... It still had the orange junk in it so I got all that out of there and went to the yellow. Transmission is perfect..... Still shifts like new and never had any problems. I change the fluid every 30-40k miles and it stays clean and bright red. I've sent a couple trans oil samples into Blackstone as well and all came back fine. All other fluids get changed regularly as well.... Brake fluid at least once a year, t-case when I do trans fluid, and diffs about 75k. Spark plugs and coil boots every 40-50k and it's never had a misfire.... still on original coils. Have a dual catch can as well. I also always let it warm up before driving..... I never drive on a cold engine

 

[rodinator1234]

Outside of a few common quirks, they're actually solid engines when properly cared for. They're just very sensitive to religious maintenance

I did do the timing chain and cam phasers at 178k for the startup rattle..... I went ahead and did the guides and tensioner as well while I was in there. That's been the only bigger thing to go wrong.... Only other engine related issue was a small oil leak from the vacuum pump seal.... New gasket and she was good. I flushed the coolant shortly after I got it..... It still had the orange junk in it so I got all that out of there and went to the yellow. Transmission is perfect..... Still shifts like new and never had any problems. I change the fluid every 30-40k miles and it stays clean and bright red. I've sent a couple trans oil samples into Blackstone as well and all came back fine. All other fluids get changed regularly as well.... Brake fluid at least once a year, t-case when I do trans fluid, and diffs about 75k. Spark plugs and coil boots every 40-50k and it's never had a misfire.... still on original coils. Have a dual catch can as well. I also always let it warm up before driving..... I never drive on a cold engine

That's impressive, that's not even the supposed updated chain and phasers.

 

[Impatient]

Jealous of your results, my EB not as good and only 78K. Also, this is first UOA of Motul in an EB that I’ve seen.

what were your previous oils in the UOA?
do you get much gunk out of your catch can?
what trans fluid and diff fluid are you using (Since you don’t fit “the mold” for typical Ford truck users.)
what climate? Typical use pattern?

 

[thirdgenlxi]

Jealous of your results, my EB not as good and only 78K. Also, this is first UOA of Motul in an EB that I’ve seen.

what were your previous oils in the UOA?
do you get much gunk out of your catch can?
what trans fluid and diff fluid are you using (Since you don’t fit “the mold” for typical Ford truck users.)
what climate? Typical use pattern?

Yea I never see anybody else in the F-150 or Ecoboost groups that uses it either. I've used it in motorcycles for awhile now and always had good results, so I figured I'd try it in the truck too, lol. The 8100 Eco Lite specifically lists the Ford spec # for the Ecoboost, and I like the ester oils as they keep everything clean inside. I'm a Ford dealer tech and have seen inside plenty of them that run the motorcraft and they seem to varnish up pretty bad, especially when they go by the dash for oil changes. Seen some that were straight up sludged

All of my UOA have been with the Motul..... I'd been using it for a little while before I started doing the UOA's. Everything seemed good so I just stuck with it. The catch can fills up with more condensation than anything, I think just because I have it mounted in the front, so it gets a lot of cool air going across it. There is still some gunk in it, but the majority seems to be water. I've also swapped the stock black PCV valve out for the brown one, which was supposed to help lessen fuel dilution.

Trans fluid I usually use either motorcraft or Schaeffer's LV..... Currently has Schaeffer's in it now but it's due to be changed again. Both diffs have Motul gear oil. T-case gets the same as the trans. Brake fluid just a synthetic dot 4 from the parts store, and coolant motorcraft yellow .... Got that orange junk out of there awhile back

Climate is fairly mild here..... I'm in western NC. It gets hot and humid in the summer but not as bad as some places. Winters are generally pretty mild. It's my daily commuter.... 33 miles each way to work wveryday, mainly 2 lane roads 55-60 mph. I do quite a few road trips too though, so lots of highway as well. Have a small camper that I pull around as well. I live out in the boonies where I'm not really close to anything, so not many short trips or stop and go.... I try and stay out of the cities, haha. Also as mentioned above, I always let it warm up before driving.... I use remote start every day. I never drive on a cold engine. And always let it idle a min or so before shutting it off. And I do that with all my stuff, even my lawnmower, lol. I ride dirt bikes as well and it's very common for people to start them up cold and immediately just sit and rev the piss out of them.... Makes me cringe everytime, lol. But then they need a new top end after 100 hours. I have a 200cc 2 stroke and I put 1,409 hours and 22,000 miles before it needed a new top end..... And it wasn't fresh when I started. I always start it and just let it idle for a good 10 mins or so while I'm getting changed..... Seems to make a difference

 

[Impatient]

Nice write-up. Nice endorsement for Motul too. And Ford.

My EB’s iron numbers are OK (~1k miles), aluminum OK, no Chromium, but Copper is consistently high for some reason (~1k miles). Total 2 the miles are long distance summer highway, with additional highway miles (
Most of this summer use has been with an expensive high-ester diesel oil that was recommended to me, but that oil may be history now. I use “lesser” synthetics in the short-distance off-seasons; the few times I UOA’s the “lesser” synthetics (Pennzoil & Quaker State), results were worse. Fuel dilution is my main concern.

I bought 2 OCI’s of Amsoil SS, so will try that for next 2 summers, I hope.

I would trade all the expensive oil (much worse$$ than your Motul) and angst if I could go back in time, and use what you use. I suppose it’s not too late to switch (After the Amsoil, assuming it does OK). It will be years before I get to 50% of your total mileage.

 

[EcoB00ST]

Nice write-up. Nice endorsement for Motul too. And Ford.

My EB’s iron numbers are OK (~1k miles), aluminum OK, no Chromium, but Copper is consistently high for some reason (~1k miles). Total 2 the miles are long distance summer highway, with additional highway miles (
Most of this summer use has been with an expensive high-ester diesel oil that was recommended to me, but that oil may be history now. I use “lesser” synthetics in the short-distance off-seasons; the few times I UOA’s the “lesser” synthetics (Pennzoil & Quaker State), results were worse. Fuel dilution is my main concern.

I bought 2 OCI’s of Amsoil SS, so will try that for next 2 summers, I hope.

I would trade all the expensive oil (much worse$$ than your Motul) and angst if I could go back in time, and use what you use. I suppose it’s not too late to switch (After the Amsoil, assuming it does OK). It will be years before I get to 50% of your total mileage.

Castrol Edge seems to keep my copper non-existent. Give it a shot.

 

[KCJeep]

The 8100 Eco Lite specifically lists the Ford spec # for the Ecoboost, and I like the ester oils as they keep everything clean inside. I'm a Ford dealer tech and have seen inside plenty of them that run the motorcraft and they seem to varnish up pretty bad, especially when they go by the dash for oil changes. Seen some that were straight up sludged

That doesn't surprise me but it's good to have some confirmation. I don't understand why Ford thinks a fuel diluting turbo can run long-ish OCI's on a syn-blend.

I'm going to be following 5k OCI's with top tier full syns, I have Valvoline EP on deck. The Motul is interesting, I've never looked at it. Viscosity retention is excellent!

 

[Impatient]

Well, obviously OP should keep doing what he’s doing, seems to be working. I did briefly look at the various Motul’s just now. I don’t see mention of Esters in the Eco-Lite, though that may not mean there aren’t any. I only looked at PDS, not SDS (which required providing email etc, so I balked). Motul does brag about Esters in their racing oils, but not the 8100’s that I looked at. So what? Well, maybe if there were cleaning esters, the oil would perform better in a “remedial” way. But if you start with Eco-Lite, maybe you never need “remedial.”

@EcoBoost, Castrol is in it now, and if you had any reason to notice my Subaru rants (which I presume you don’t ), you would see I’m sort of a Castrol (Euro) fanboy. But I fell into taking advice from a certain someone whose name shall not be disclosed () and he steered me in a different direction in the EcoBoost…for better or for worse. As it turns out, he was a fan of Ester-based and other “vegetable” oils, though that was before HPL became the buzz. I lost contact, so returned to Castrol for an “emergency” fill, though I have at least 18 mo worth of Amsoil SS to go through…which I somewhat regret, though I have no hands-on experience with it yet.

I do wish OP had used Oil Analysers instead of Blackstone so we had a better idea of the fuel dilution…but again, what he’s been doing has worked better for him than what I’ve been doing, so who am I to give advice.