2012 KTM 500 EXC Refresh

This bike is going to be too cherry to ride and instead be put in a museum for display. I know you'll ride it, but it's going to be a work of art when you're done.
That's kinda the funny part. Come spring I'll be thrashing it through mud holes like I stole it :D
 
It's been a struggle to get anything done lately but I did get the shop in order:
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Didn't take any pictures but I dissembled and cleaned the brake calipers.

The OEM fuel rail arrived:
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The reason I wanted to replace the aftermarket one that the PO had installed is because the hose nipple came strait out the top which makes make it hard to access the bolts to remove the injector while on the bike. However the OEM rail is a two piece design and after spending a hour or two messing with it I came to the conclusion it was just too janky for my liking. There is too much play between the two pieces, I rigged up a pressure test setup and tested it to twice the operating pressure but I'm just not getting a good feeling about it so I'm going to put the aftermarket one back on as it is a well made part and holds everything very secure.

So here it was ready to go in the bike, then when inspecting the hose I noticed it has some small cracks in the top bend, probably fine but for the price of hose I will replace it. Also I will clean the inline filter while its on the bench.
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So that's it for now, not much progress but I've been sick for the last couple weeks and working lots of 14-16hr days. Hopefully things will start progressing faster but I have 4-5 months until riding season so not in that big of a rush.
 
Inline fuel filter cleaned, was pretty clean as it should be, it has a in-tank filter just after the pump. Small amount of dirt in the screen that can't really be seen in the pics and a little on the housing that will give you a idea:
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I noticed it would be much easier to install the throttle cables on the throttle body on the bench rather than in the bike so lets get that done.
My original plan was to just clean and lube the cables and replace a boot on the throttle housing that had completely failed, I guess time wasn't good to it and it just started falling apart to nothing over the last season and because of this the cables have a lot of dirt in them. The PO had installed a Motion Pro Rev2 throttle, so I called Motion Pro about a new boot, they informed me that the boot isn't replaceable as its installed and then the cables are finished after its installed, I checked and this is the case. So then I figured OK I will just get new cables since these ones are rough anyways.

I also wanted to use ODI lock on grips which aren't compatible with the Rev2 throttle, only the newer Rev3 version.
So what started as my intentions to replace a failed boot escalated to a whole new throttle system. LOL

I did take the opportunity to get the 3" longer cables that work better for the raised handlebars to accommodate the steering dampener that the PO had not and it was a little tight on cable length so a good upgrade all round.
Old on the left, new on the right:
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They also come with interchangeable cams that change how much the throttle is opened in relation to how far you twist the grip and a special one they call the "off road" cam that has a progressive profile that is suppose to soften the initial hit off idle these big bore FI bikes have, not a big deal if your riding desert and open spaces but will be very welcome in the tight single track I ride it can get kind of "lurchy".
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With the throttle body now ready I installed it and finally installed the subframe/airbox:
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Feels really good to see some progress and you might even say its starting to resemble a bike!
 
Onto the forks:
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You know what happens first, cleaning:
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Some tools I picked up for the job:
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I won't do a step by step write up, lots of videos on youtube for that, I will say be prepared for a mess:
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And done:
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I installed the front axle to ensure no binding and good fork alignment. Then torqued the triples to spec.

Then I marked where the triples clamp on the forks and removed them to install these fork wraps, they don't really add any protection, I just like the look.
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Also have these little covers for the bottom triple clamp:
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Then I installed the front axle to ensure no binding and good fork alignment(Axle slides back and forth easily). Installed the front tugger strap. Then torqued the triples to spec.
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All wrapped up:
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Handlebars & Steering dampener:

The process:
Install and torque lower bar clamp without steering dampener. Install bars temporally. Adjust steering head bearing tension. Remove bars, install steering dampener. Install bars and torque everything down to spec.

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That's where I'm at currently. The plan is to get most of the components on before I start to tackle the wiring. Try to find that balance of having the things that need to be in place and not the stuff that will just get in the way...
 
Next up: Exhaust
Here is what we are starting with, this has already been scrubbed with a brush and soap, the crud is really baked on:
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I used a wire brush for the really baked on stuff and then the scotchbrite style wheel on a die grinder to get all the dirt off:
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I then went over it using a bench mounted buffer.
Turned out pretty good:
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The head pipe didn't shine up like the can as it doesn't have the surface for it and I'm not willing to put that kind of effort into it on this bike:
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New decal for the can for the finishing touch. (Also repacked it)
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The rubber bushings in the mounts were clapped out, after I checked the parts schematic it shows they are suppose to have a metal bushing on both sides, mine only has them on the front so that's probably why mine ate toast. I had the rubber bushing ordered in advance but will have to wait on the new metal ones.

I'll just soft mount it for now:
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Onto the brakes and controls:
Just your typical filth you would expect. Here is the front:
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I'm didn't do a complete rebuild, just a clean and lube.
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As you can see in the above pic there is a bunch of electrical tape around the speed sensor wire. I wrongly assumed the PO had done a repair here but turned out it was just protecting a connector and it did a fine job, the connector was clean and dry but looks a little janky so I put some heat shrink tube over it:
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The rear brake got the same treatment and I'm going switch from the Enduro Engineering disc guard to this SRT version for no reason other than cosmetic.
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Installed, you will also notice I installed some Polispotort swingarm covers.
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Handlebar controls mounted up:
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On the left side we have a Clake 2 assisted clutch lever combined with a LHRB, I ran this most of last season and I'm a big fan.
Also a CEV switch setup, this is actually the same switch the KTM come with in some European countries. I got it because it allows the head light to be turned off and the kill switch is handy at times. I ran this last season also.
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Right side is the Motion Pro throttle, factory front brake. For the switch I'm going from the factory version to this momentary one from Motominded. Its plug and play on the newer bikes so I'll have to wire it up later.
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I knocked out the ends of the grips too allow handguards to be mounted, I'll be using the same Enduro Engeimneering guards I had on it already. However I installed these threaded bar inserts for a more solid mounting solution:
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I have a lithium battery that is smaller than factory, last season I just crammed some folded up cardboard around it so it would fit securely in the battery box. I wanted to something a little better so I had a look at the box and came up with a easy solution, just drill a new hole for the rubber hold down strap lower:

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Worked well, there is still just a bit of play front to back and side to side so I will pick up some thin rubber to glue in.
Should work well:
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That's where I'm at now. Probably won't get anymore updates from me until after the holidays.
Hope everyone has a Merry Christmas!

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Updates:

Was feeling like doing something easy so I installed the new fork plastic covers:
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Then I put the decals on them, the swingarm and on the number plate:
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Radiators:
I cleaned them with aluminum cleaner back when I did the brakes. Here is what we are working with:
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The rad for the left side(right side of picture is bent and I want to install braces so we will have to do something about that. After about 10 min with some precision tools(mallet and 2x4) here it is:
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I went with the Enduro Engineering Rad braces and guards, they seem like a good compromise between weight and protection.
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Installed:
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I installed the new Samco hoses on the T-stat and got them installed on the bike.
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Next I put on the exhaust shield. I wouldn't have ever though about polishing something like this but when I was doing the muffler I also hit the carbon fiber end cap on the buffer and with no time at all it looked like new so I did a quick 30 second polish on this and it also cleaned right up.

Before:
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Its not bad just kind of dull:
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And after 30seconds on the buffing wheel:
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After that was checking out the clutch.
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I didn't take anymore pics because my hands were covered in oil but I inspected the discs, plates and the rekluse EXP unit. Everything was within spec and looked good so I buttoned it back up. I did put in a 280lb Bellevile spring as I was having some slipping when really hammering on it in the higher gears but I also didn't have it setup proper before either so that might be part of it. I had the spacer on setting 3 on a recommendation from rekluse but the spring wasn't even close to flat so it wasn't getting the proper spring preload. I went to setting 2 and its almost perfectly flat. The 0.004" feeler gauge fits snug which is right on KTM spec.
 
These bikes have a small issue where the mud flap will rub against the swingarm where the shock bolts on and if left unchecked for hundreds of hours have been know to weakening it to a point it cracks. There are several simple and cheap ways to fix it. Some will epoxy a quarter on it. Stick some velcro on it, etc. That's all fine but I decided to go with this trick setup that replaces the shock bolt and then has a small wheel that is on a bearing that keeps the flap away from the swingarm.
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Put on a new dirt tricks 13T sprocket and reused the Dirt tricks washer with a new bolt. I tourqued it when I had the clutch apart using a clutch basket holding tool.

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What's with all the painters tape over the clutch slave mounting location? Good question, after the sprocket I was installing the case guard that uses one of the mounting holes for the slave. When I installed the slave a couple weeks ago I had to put in a shorter bolt because the one that goes through the case guard and slave is too long and will bottom out.

When I installed the case guard I had my 5 year helping and she put in the bolt so I didn't notice it only grabbed a few threads before it got tight. So when I went to do the final tightening I got to experience that wonderful feeling of the threads letting go.

Pulled out the bolt and this came with it
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This isn't ideal obviously but isn't the end of the world. It's a blind hole so that's good and I have strait on access to it.
On the down side I can only find one place in Canada with a M6x1.0 timesert kit and they want over $300CDN for it so I will have to get one shipped from the US which will take some time but I have lots to do in the mean time anyways.
 
Why not simply use a helicoil? Cheap, effective, easy.
Helicoil would probably be fine but I prefer time serts since they lock in place and cant back out like a helicoil can. I know its not likely but does happen occasionally.
 
I ordered a adjustable rear brake lever hoping to get the "pedal" part a bit further away from the pegs. Unfortunately it barely has any adjustment longer, I guess its design target was for people with small feet.
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At least it looks good if nothing else.
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Put on a new coolant overflow hose since the old was was very brittle. Little details like this are cheap and make a big difference in the end IMO. New rad cap also.
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Not much else done, picked up a couple more hose clamps to finish off the rad hoses, some little things like that.
 
The time sert kit came in, I meant to take some pictures during the process but completely forgot.

Anyway here it is with the repair done, clutch slave and case guard installed.
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Installed the rear shifter. Tried out these safety wire pliers. Could have routed the wire a bit better but it is pulling the bolt in the right direction so it will work. The shifter is 20mm longer than stock, had issues with the stock one being to close so this will be a nice upgrade.

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I need to service the Clake clutch and rear brake setup so I removed the lever set first, cleaned and lubed everything. I want to do some fine tuning here so I have a email into the owner and will probably be getting some different cams to try, well be back here later.

Polisport makes a bracket that allows the fenders from the 2017-22 bikes to be mounted to these 12-16 bikes. not only does it update the look but it also allows me many options for headlight upgrades, here is the bracket installed:
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The fender has these nice collars where the bolts go through. however bolts without washers makes for a sloppy fit and I didn't have any washers that fit inside the recess nice but I found some flange bolts that are a perfect length but the flange was too big. I turned about 20 thou off the flange so they fit in the recess nicely:
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Next I wanted to install the rear fender so I could mount the tail light/signals for the electrical. It took some trimming and adjusting but in went on eventually. At this point I thought perhaps I should mount all the new plastics encase I run into a fitment issue its probably better to find that out sooner than later. I was going to save this for the end so it kinda feels like I'm skipping to the last chapter of a book before finishing it but here it is:
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I did run into some fitment issues that required some minor trimming but nothing too serious.
Also on the airbox cover these pins screw into a formed post. The first one I did split on me, I will fix it up with epoxy. The second one I heated up with a heat gun and no issues.
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Now the curiosity was killing me about how the decals are going to look so I moved onto that.
Did the front fender and mask first:
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Its crazy how time consuming decal application is, took 1.5 hrs to do those three parts.

That's all for now, I will probably get the decals finished up next.
 

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Forgot about this, happened before the last post:

I need to service the Clake clutch and rear brake lever unit so I removed the lever set first, cleaned and lubed everything. I want to do some fine tuning here, I have a email into the owner and will probably be getting some different cams to try, we'll be back here later.

Before:
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After:
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