2011 Camry Drain Plug too tight! Dang you Toyota.

On my son's GTI, the oil drain had a similar plug which stripped out. We used some Knipex Cobra pliers around the circumference to break it loose, given the low torque on it.
 
Had a similar situation on a drain plug for MB rear diff. Went to Grainger and purchased the IRWIN Hanson 53226 extractor set.
looks like this:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/EXTR-SET-10PC/19259759?adid=22222222264454299903&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=b&wl1=o&wl2=c&wl3=72568235478648&wl4=dat-2324367582750788:loc-71239&wl5=71326&wl6=&wl7=105603&wl14=irwin 53226&veh=sem&gclid=ef251e3383fe1796589e76563c82f678&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=ef251e3383fe1796589e76563c82f678

Used the largest that would fit the stripped hex plug and tapped it in as best I could with a small hammer. I got lucky and it did the trick, was able to break it loose and get it out.
 
Yes I've ran into this on Toyota's before. The trans drain plug on my brother and his wife's Rav stripped on me. Hammering in the hex head did not work stripped it more, like you said very soft!

I lucked out and was able to get it off with vice grips around the edge.
 
First, spray it up good with penetrating oil. Let it sit for awhile. Get the " blue wrench". Heat the plug up for a bit. Get a sharp chisel, lightweight hammer, and start making notches in different spots around the plug. Then just keep hitting the plug, where you started the notches, with the hammer and chisel. Slowly, it will start moving because there's a crush washer in between the plug and pan. Just be careful not to hit the pan. Oh, and make sure you have a new plug & crush washer.... LOL :)
 
It may not be very helpful now, but.. when I needed to open fill plug in TX case on a Tacoma and knowing they are easily stripped I went straight for impact and it came out with no effort and no damage to the plug. Same Taco, oil filter plastic cap was waaay too tight, didn't want to break it, filter removal cap and impact again, no damage and effortless removal. I think I used M12 Stubby.
 
Same plug STUCK in the Tacoma front differential. Use Al anti-seize.
This reminds me years ago I helped a friend put an OME lift on a '14 Taco and his front diff drain plug was rounded. I eventually drove a torx in and got it.

The key is a small to medium impact wrench and lots of pressure to discourage cam out. Quick blips of the trigger and hope (pray) to shock it loose. I got lucky but it was a fight and I now remember taking a B-BFH and going cave man on it to seat that torx after several failed attempts.
 
This reminds me years ago I helped a friend put an OME lift on a '14 Taco and his front diff drain plug was rounded. I eventually drove a torx in and got it.

The key is a small to medium impact wrench and lots of pressure to discourage cam out. Quick blips of the trigger and hope (pray) to shock it loose. I got lucky but it was a fight and I now remember taking a B-BFH and going cave man on it to seat that torx after several failed attempts.
My buddy had a reputable shop do the same re-gear and lockers as me to his Taco. After 1000 miles, time to swap "break in" gear oils. I was going to help him put in Amsoil 75W-90 in the front. Climb under the truck and the plug was completely buggered. The shop had done that! Yikes. We got it out, slot, chisel hammer..........and bought a new plug.
 
First, spray it up good with penetrating oil. Let it sit for awhile. Get the " blue wrench". Heat the plug up for a bit. Get a sharp chisel, lightweight hammer, and start making notches in different spots around the plug. Then just keep hitting the plug, where you started the notches, with the hammer and chisel. Slowly, it will start moving because there's a crush washer in between the plug and pan. Just be careful not to hit the pan. Oh, and make sure you have a new plug & crush washer.... LOL :)
I have pretty good tools in my garage for a DIY guy, but no smoke wrench. I am considering the chisel approach. I will get another crack at the car next week.

Thanks for your guidance.
 
Yeah, just go to Lowe's or Home Depot and get a canister of propane, with any ole nozzle you can grab. It'll be in the plumbing section, in most stores, for sweating copper pipes together. Their cheap, and come in handy when working on stubborn / frozen nuts and bolts under the car. Rust under a car will make you're life miserable when trying to disassemble things. The blue wrench works wonders.
 
True, you can give it a whack if the plug is mounted on the transfer case, but, in my case , the plug was in the steel tranny pan. Whack it, dent it, no bueno. But, I have a 13' Honda CRV with the plugs in the transfer case. I'll give it a whack if need be. BTW, I did see a video on you-tube where the mechanic put a tiny smear of anti-seize on the plug threads. Not too much. You don't want that stuff mixing with the ATF or rear diff fluid.
 
I have pretty good tools in my garage for a DIY guy, but no smoke wrench. I am considering the chisel approach. I will get another crack at the car next week.

Thanks for your guidance.
They sell 'em at the Gittin' Place

We have the technology, you too can own a torch ;) Honestly I'd consider leasing tanks from the LWS. Call for prices, the tank lease can be surprisingly affordable. The torch itself runs mild $ to wild $$$$$$
 
Yeah, just go to Lowe's or Home Depot and get a canister of propane, with any ole nozzle you can grab. It'll be in the plumbing section, in most stores, for sweating copper pipes together. Their cheap, and come in handy when working on stubborn / frozen nuts and bolts under the car. Rust under a car will make you're life miserable when trying to disassemble things. The blue wrench works wonders.
Come to think of it, my BIL left one when he was here. Not sure I know which end is the business end...
 
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I appreciate your help. I also know my limitations. All good.
You could also buy one of the budget mini-ductors (I have one, it gets bolts hot) but honestly I've had so little success. It gets fasteners boiling off penetrant, but it just never seems enough. Maybe I just need to keep heating.

Still, I'm glad to have it in the arsenal.

No flame so arguably safer than a torch.
 
You could also buy one of the budget mini-ductors (I have one, it gets bolts hot) but honestly I've had so little success. It gets fasteners boiling off penetrant, but it just never seems enough. Maybe I just need to keep heating.

Still, I'm glad to have it in the arsenal.

No flame so arguably safer than a torch.
My current plan is to use a chisel to break torque, and/or take it to a local shop, 2 of which are outstanding.
Of course my plans are apt to change...

Or take a spin over to @The Critic and let him bang away at it? He is always willing to help.
I am gonna give it another shot, because when it is done the sense of satisfaction is always worth the effort. I am responsible for the problem.
 
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