2010 Toyota Corolla
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Originally Posted By: Gokhan
If you need part diagrams and nos., this is the best site:
http://www.toyomotorparts.com/
Awesome, thanks! I'll definitely use this a lot.
EDIT: And that'll be useful if I want to rebuild the starter or something. Since the starter is a common problem, there's actually a manufacturer on ebay that makes aftermarket replacement internals, but it's nice to know that I could order the factory parts and have some clue about pricing.
EDIT 2: Yeah, that just made my day. Those part diagrams are awesome.
If you need part diagrams and nos., this is the best site:
http://www.toyomotorparts.com/
Awesome, thanks! I'll definitely use this a lot.
EDIT: And that'll be useful if I want to rebuild the starter or something. Since the starter is a common problem, there's actually a manufacturer on ebay that makes aftermarket replacement internals, but it's nice to know that I could order the factory parts and have some clue about pricing.
EDIT 2: Yeah, that just made my day. Those part diagrams are awesome.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
They later changed it and 0W-20 is the only recommended oil. 5W-20 is no longer recommended:
http://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/document/om/OM12C22U/pdf/sec_06-01.pdf
Thanks for the link, it reads:
Quote:
0W-20 is the oil that provides the optimal level of fuel efficiency.
Can't disagree with that. It doesn't mean it the best oil for the car.
They later changed it and 0W-20 is the only recommended oil. 5W-20 is no longer recommended:
http://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/document/om/OM12C22U/pdf/sec_06-01.pdf
Thanks for the link, it reads:
Quote:
0W-20 is the oil that provides the optimal level of fuel efficiency.
Can't disagree with that. It doesn't mean it the best oil for the car.
Originally Posted By: Bandito440
I had a 2005 with the 1.8 a few years back. It was good, basic transportation.
Different engine.
I had a 2005 with the 1.8 a few years back. It was good, basic transportation.
Different engine.
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
The reliability is excellent but it has a weird, vague steering at the center.
Agree 100%. I test drove one in 2010 and couldn't take the electric steering. I have 3 toyota cars with EPS and none of them are as bad as corolla.
The reliability is excellent but it has a weird, vague steering at the center.
Agree 100%. I test drove one in 2010 and couldn't take the electric steering. I have 3 toyota cars with EPS and none of them are as bad as corolla.
Originally Posted By: fresham
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
If you need part diagrams and nos., this is the best site:
http://www.toyomotorparts.com/
Awesome, thanks! I'll definitely use this a lot.
EDIT: And that'll be useful if I want to rebuild the starter or something. Since the starter is a common problem, there's actually a manufacturer on ebay that makes aftermarket replacement internals, but it's nice to know that I could order the factory parts and have some clue about pricing.
EDIT 2: Yeah, that just made my day. Those part diagrams are awesome.
Sure! Toyota OEM starters are usually factory-remanufactured; so, they should be affordable with core exchange.
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
If you need part diagrams and nos., this is the best site:
http://www.toyomotorparts.com/
Awesome, thanks! I'll definitely use this a lot.
EDIT: And that'll be useful if I want to rebuild the starter or something. Since the starter is a common problem, there's actually a manufacturer on ebay that makes aftermarket replacement internals, but it's nice to know that I could order the factory parts and have some clue about pricing.
EDIT 2: Yeah, that just made my day. Those part diagrams are awesome.
Sure! Toyota OEM starters are usually factory-remanufactured; so, they should be affordable with core exchange.
I have 2009 Corolla I bought in late 2009 with 36K miles on it. It just went past 120K miles this last week. I used PP 5W-20 in it and did 5000 mile OCIs until about 90K miles and I've stretched them out to 7500 miles ever since after getting a couple UOAs. This winter I decided to try QSUD 0W-20 and I have 5000 miles on the oil and haven't had any problems.
As for filters, I mainly used the purolator cartridge since that was the easiest thing to find around here. Although now the local Walmart is carrying the Fram Tough Guard version.
One thing I will say about the cartridge wrench is stay away from the cheap pressed steel ones you find at the parts stores. They flex a bit and that can be enough to cause them to slip. Also it is best if you drive the car for about 10 minutes before trying to take the filter housing off. It's much easier if the engine is at least warm.
This is the wrench I use and it works great. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015PK3AG/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
As for filters, I mainly used the purolator cartridge since that was the easiest thing to find around here. Although now the local Walmart is carrying the Fram Tough Guard version.
One thing I will say about the cartridge wrench is stay away from the cheap pressed steel ones you find at the parts stores. They flex a bit and that can be enough to cause them to slip. Also it is best if you drive the car for about 10 minutes before trying to take the filter housing off. It's much easier if the engine is at least warm.
This is the wrench I use and it works great. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015PK3AG/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Regarding it won't shift to OD when it's cold: It's standard for all Toyota ATMs, including my 1985 Corolla. They won't start shifting to OD until the coolant temperature reaches 55 C (131 F) and they will stop shifting to OD if it cools to 43 C (109 F).
Most will retard all upshifts during warmup.
Follow-up question: This will be my first UOA on this car (and overall). What should I get tested? What do I look for? I read the page on here about it, but I'm still unclear as to what I should expect.
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Regarding it won't shift to OD when it's cold: It's standard for all Toyota ATMs, including my 1985 Corolla. They won't start shifting to OD until the coolant temperature reaches 55 C (131 F) and they will stop shifting to OD if it cools to 43 C (109 F).
This thermo-switch-prohibited OD with cold engine could be to prevent oil starvation in a cold engine, as the cold oil is too thick and low RPMs could result in insufficient oil flow.
This is yet another reason to prefer a 0W-20 with a high viscosity index (low 40 C viscosity) such as TGMO 0W-20 SN to a 5W-20 or 0W-20 with a lower viscosity index (VI) such as Mobil 1 0W-20 SN.
Regarding it won't shift to OD when it's cold: It's standard for all Toyota ATMs, including my 1985 Corolla. They won't start shifting to OD until the coolant temperature reaches 55 C (131 F) and they will stop shifting to OD if it cools to 43 C (109 F).
This thermo-switch-prohibited OD with cold engine could be to prevent oil starvation in a cold engine, as the cold oil is too thick and low RPMs could result in insufficient oil flow.
This is yet another reason to prefer a 0W-20 with a high viscosity index (low 40 C viscosity) such as TGMO 0W-20 SN to a 5W-20 or 0W-20 with a lower viscosity index (VI) such as Mobil 1 0W-20 SN.
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Regarding it won't shift to OD when it's cold: It's standard for all Toyota ATMs, including my 1985 Corolla. They won't start shifting to OD until the coolant temperature reaches 55 C (131 F) and they will stop shifting to OD if it cools to 43 C (109 F).
This is good to know!
Regarding it won't shift to OD when it's cold: It's standard for all Toyota ATMs, including my 1985 Corolla. They won't start shifting to OD until the coolant temperature reaches 55 C (131 F) and they will stop shifting to OD if it cools to 43 C (109 F).
This is good to know!
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Originally Posted By: fresham
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Regarding it won't shift to OD when it's cold: It's standard for all Toyota ATMs, including my 1985 Corolla. They won't start shifting to OD until the coolant temperature reaches 55 C (131 F) and they will stop shifting to OD if it cools to 43 C (109 F).
This is good to know!
My 86 300ZX turbo and my 98 3000GT were the same way. Manual stated that the a/t wouldn't shift into overdrive until the coolant reached a certain temp. Completely normal.
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Regarding it won't shift to OD when it's cold: It's standard for all Toyota ATMs, including my 1985 Corolla. They won't start shifting to OD until the coolant temperature reaches 55 C (131 F) and they will stop shifting to OD if it cools to 43 C (109 F).
This is good to know!
My 86 300ZX turbo and my 98 3000GT were the same way. Manual stated that the a/t wouldn't shift into overdrive until the coolant reached a certain temp. Completely normal.
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Regarding it won't shift to OD when it's cold: It's standard for all Toyota ATMs, including my 1985 Corolla. They won't start shifting to OD until the coolant temperature reaches 55 C (131 F) and they will stop shifting to OD if it cools to 43 C (109 F).
This thermo-switch-prohibited OD with cold engine could be to prevent oil starvation in a cold engine, as the cold oil is too thick and low RPMs could result in insufficient oil flow.
This is yet another reason to prefer a 0W-20 with a high viscosity index (low 40 C viscosity) such as TGMO 0W-20 SN to a 5W-20 or 0W-20 with a lower viscosity index (VI) such as Mobil 1 0W-20 SN.
First, 43C is not "cold engine."
Second, this cold shift logic has nothing to with oil starvation and everything to do with warming up engine/tranny/cats faster (lower emissions).
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Regarding it won't shift to OD when it's cold: It's standard for all Toyota ATMs, including my 1985 Corolla. They won't start shifting to OD until the coolant temperature reaches 55 C (131 F) and they will stop shifting to OD if it cools to 43 C (109 F).
This thermo-switch-prohibited OD with cold engine could be to prevent oil starvation in a cold engine, as the cold oil is too thick and low RPMs could result in insufficient oil flow.
This is yet another reason to prefer a 0W-20 with a high viscosity index (low 40 C viscosity) such as TGMO 0W-20 SN to a 5W-20 or 0W-20 with a lower viscosity index (VI) such as Mobil 1 0W-20 SN.
First, 43C is not "cold engine."
Second, this cold shift logic has nothing to with oil starvation and everything to do with warming up engine/tranny/cats faster (lower emissions).
Originally Posted By: fresham
I have a 2010 Corolla with a 1.8 L 4-cylinder (2ZR-FE) engine with 87,000 miles. I'd love to hear some feedback on what oil would work best for me.
Has the atf been changed yet?
I have a 2010 Corolla with a 1.8 L 4-cylinder (2ZR-FE) engine with 87,000 miles. I'd love to hear some feedback on what oil would work best for me.
Has the atf been changed yet?
Originally Posted By: satinsilver
Has the atf been changed yet?
Yeah, it was changed at 60k miles.
Has the atf been changed yet?
Yeah, it was changed at 60k miles.
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