2010 Honda Fit, 3,050 miles, factory fill
- Thread starter Erik
- Start date
- Status
Looks like a typical factory fill to me. High moly (good). TBN was also very strong, supporting the notion that Honda really does intend for you to keep the oil in for whatever the OLM says (probably 8-10k miles).
The viscosity is well down into the 20wt grade. It had some fuel in it. Did you start the engine cold and then change the oil right then?
Nice report, and thanks for posting it!
The viscosity is well down into the 20wt grade. It had some fuel in it. Did you start the engine cold and then change the oil right then?
Nice report, and thanks for posting it!
Originally Posted By: Jason Adcock
Looks like a typical factory fill to me. High moly (good). TBN was also very strong, supporting the notion that Honda really does intend for you to keep the oil in for whatever the OLM says (probably 8-10k miles).
The viscosity is well down into the 20wt grade. It had some fuel in it. Did you start the engine cold and then change the oil right then?
Nice report, and thanks for posting it!
Thanks for the quick reply! I did a minimal warm-up before changing the oil. It felt warm on my hands, but certainly not up to normal operating temperature. What is the best practice for me to use on future changes?
Thanks!
Looks like a typical factory fill to me. High moly (good). TBN was also very strong, supporting the notion that Honda really does intend for you to keep the oil in for whatever the OLM says (probably 8-10k miles).
The viscosity is well down into the 20wt grade. It had some fuel in it. Did you start the engine cold and then change the oil right then?
Nice report, and thanks for posting it!
Thanks for the quick reply! I did a minimal warm-up before changing the oil. It felt warm on my hands, but certainly not up to normal operating temperature. What is the best practice for me to use on future changes?
Thanks!
Generally, you'd want to take a sample after a long drive. If your commute to/from work thoroughly heats the oil up (as long as it's 15-20 minutes or longer), changing the oil after you get home would be reasonable. The engine runs richer when cold, and that excess fuel sometimes washes down the cylinder walls into the oil. Of course, this problem is so minimized on modern engines, but in order to all but eliminate it, you'd want to take your sample on HOT oil.
As far as actually CHANGING the oil, it doesn't really much matter. Here again, though, theory states that the hotter the oil is, the quicker (and the more complete) it will drain.
As far as actually CHANGING the oil, it doesn't really much matter. Here again, though, theory states that the hotter the oil is, the quicker (and the more complete) it will drain.
Originally Posted By: Erik
Originally Posted By: Jason Adcock
Looks like a typical factory fill to me. High moly (good). TBN was also very strong, supporting the notion that Honda really does intend for you to keep the oil in for whatever the OLM says (probably 8-10k miles).
The viscosity is well down into the 20wt grade. It had some fuel in it. Did you start the engine cold and then change the oil right then?
Nice report, and thanks for posting it!
Thanks for the quick reply! I did a minimal warm-up before changing the oil. It felt warm on my hands, but certainly not up to normal operating temperature. What is the best practice for me to use on future changes?
Thanks!
If possible, you'll want to get the oil good and hot before changing it, especially so if you're taking a UOA sample. That will tend to burn off any fuel and/or condensation that might have snuck in there
So either after a planned long run (after work maybe) or make up a reason to go for a 20 minute drive or so, preferably some highway driving in there.
Thanks for sharing your report with us~
Originally Posted By: Jason Adcock
Looks like a typical factory fill to me. High moly (good). TBN was also very strong, supporting the notion that Honda really does intend for you to keep the oil in for whatever the OLM says (probably 8-10k miles).
The viscosity is well down into the 20wt grade. It had some fuel in it. Did you start the engine cold and then change the oil right then?
Nice report, and thanks for posting it!
Thanks for the quick reply! I did a minimal warm-up before changing the oil. It felt warm on my hands, but certainly not up to normal operating temperature. What is the best practice for me to use on future changes?
Thanks!
If possible, you'll want to get the oil good and hot before changing it, especially so if you're taking a UOA sample. That will tend to burn off any fuel and/or condensation that might have snuck in there
So either after a planned long run (after work maybe) or make up a reason to go for a 20 minute drive or so, preferably some highway driving in there.Thanks for sharing your report with us~
Many people say follow the owner's manual when it comes to which oil to use, so why do so many people not follow it when it comes to oci?
Originally Posted By: Jason Adcock
The viscosity is well down into the 20wt grade.
As this Honda would have had 0W20 as the factory fill.
The viscosity is well down into the 20wt grade.
As this Honda would have had 0W20 as the factory fill.
Thanks for posting this. It's interesting comparing it to the UOA I had for an '09 Fit's factory fill that went 10k miles.
The major difference is the oil viscosity. Seems like the fuel really brought it down. It's still in the 20 range, though, so presumably it's not the Honda 0w10 I've heard about elsewhere on this board.
The major difference is the oil viscosity. Seems like the fuel really brought it down. It's still in the 20 range, though, so presumably it's not the Honda 0w10 I've heard about elsewhere on this board.
Originally Posted By: 21Rouge
As this Honda would have had 0W20 as the factory fill.
Right, but it's still lower than what I'm used to seeing, even for 20wts. I'm used to seeing 7.5-8.5 cSt. I'm not saying it's too low, just saying that it's definitely a 20wt oil.
As this Honda would have had 0W20 as the factory fill.
Right, but it's still lower than what I'm used to seeing, even for 20wts. I'm used to seeing 7.5-8.5 cSt. I'm not saying it's too low, just saying that it's definitely a 20wt oil.
Keep an eye on that fuel level.
My friend's 09 Fit just came back from the dealer as it had tight valves that were causing intermittent misfires. The adviser told me that it is common on these newer Fits to have tight valves that cause issues down the road.
My friend's 09 Fit just came back from the dealer as it had tight valves that were causing intermittent misfires. The adviser told me that it is common on these newer Fits to have tight valves that cause issues down the road.
Originally Posted By: gib
Thanks for posting this. It's interesting comparing it to the UOA I had for an '09 Fit's factory fill that went 10k miles.
The major difference is the oil viscosity. Seems like the fuel really brought it down. It's still in the 20 range, though, so presumably it's not the Honda 0w10 I've heard about elsewhere on this board.
If the Fit is made in Japan then this likely is the Honda brand "Ultra Green" 0W-10 FF. See below:
www.honda.co.jp/auto-parts/oil/ultragreen/
Thanks for reporting.
Thanks for posting this. It's interesting comparing it to the UOA I had for an '09 Fit's factory fill that went 10k miles.
The major difference is the oil viscosity. Seems like the fuel really brought it down. It's still in the 20 range, though, so presumably it's not the Honda 0w10 I've heard about elsewhere on this board.
If the Fit is made in Japan then this likely is the Honda brand "Ultra Green" 0W-10 FF. See below:
www.honda.co.jp/auto-parts/oil/ultragreen/
Thanks for reporting.
I just took delivery of a 2010 Fit. The owners guide recommends not changing the initial fill oil until it says 15 percent or less oil life remaining. They mention that it is a special break in oil. This UOA shows nothing special, additive-wise, but it may be on the thin side of 20 for a reason.
Good to know about the possibility of tight valves. The '09 engine had a new intake rocker arrangement compared to the previous engine.
Good to know about the possibility of tight valves. The '09 engine had a new intake rocker arrangement compared to the previous engine.
Hello all,
I just did my second oil change and had another analysis done. Blackstone's only significant comment (I think) concerns fuel. I do LOTS of in-town driving and the fact that I live less than half a mile from my job means that there are many days when the car never gets fully warmed up. Anyone have any thoughts or observations?
Edited to add: The oil I changed out was a 50/50 blend of Super Tech 0-20 and 0-30. I don't usually mix oils, but it's what I had on hand when I did the change.
I just did my second oil change and had another analysis done. Blackstone's only significant comment (I think) concerns fuel. I do LOTS of in-town driving and the fact that I live less than half a mile from my job means that there are many days when the car never gets fully warmed up. Anyone have any thoughts or observations?
Edited to add: The oil I changed out was a 50/50 blend of Super Tech 0-20 and 0-30. I don't usually mix oils, but it's what I had on hand when I did the change.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: iunderpressure
Many people say follow the owner's manual when it comes to which oil to use, so why do so many people not follow it when it comes to oci?
I would say because everyone has a different driving regimen, as witnessed here with fuel etc.
I find it interesting that there is a new definition of "break in oil." Break in oil is stuff that causes the engine to wear in faster, and should be dumped very early, after that process, not left in. Apparently this is a new definition.
That dealer is so typically full of beans, what car is made consistently with over tight valves so as to cause misfire? Are burned valves also part of a special break in? They talk like it is supposed to be that way.
Many people say follow the owner's manual when it comes to which oil to use, so why do so many people not follow it when it comes to oci?
I would say because everyone has a different driving regimen, as witnessed here with fuel etc.
I find it interesting that there is a new definition of "break in oil." Break in oil is stuff that causes the engine to wear in faster, and should be dumped very early, after that process, not left in. Apparently this is a new definition.
That dealer is so typically full of beans, what car is made consistently with over tight valves so as to cause misfire? Are burned valves also part of a special break in? They talk like it is supposed to be that way.
Originally Posted By: Jimbo
I just took delivery of a 2010 Fit. The owners guide recommends not changing the initial fill oil until it says 15 percent or less oil life remaining. They mention that it is a special break in oil. This UOA shows nothing special, additive-wise, but it may be on the thin side of 20 for a reason. . . .
The moly # is what makes the FF a "special" break-in oil.
I just took delivery of a 2010 Fit. The owners guide recommends not changing the initial fill oil until it says 15 percent or less oil life remaining. They mention that it is a special break in oil. This UOA shows nothing special, additive-wise, but it may be on the thin side of 20 for a reason. . . .
The moly # is what makes the FF a "special" break-in oil.
Originally Posted By: goodtimes
That dealer is so typically full of beans, what car is made consistently with over tight valves so as to cause misfire? Are burned valves also part of a special break in? They talk like it is supposed to be that way.
That's what the dealer told me, after they did the work. They said that they see overly tight valves on this vehicles which sometimes cause misfire problems. I am not familiar enough with engines to verify the info, but all I can say is that the car runs a little better now than it did before.
Also, some Honda 3.5L V6 engines have been known to have valves that are too tight as well. Just google it.
That dealer is so typically full of beans, what car is made consistently with over tight valves so as to cause misfire? Are burned valves also part of a special break in? They talk like it is supposed to be that way.
That's what the dealer told me, after they did the work. They said that they see overly tight valves on this vehicles which sometimes cause misfire problems. I am not familiar enough with engines to verify the info, but all I can say is that the car runs a little better now than it did before.
Also, some Honda 3.5L V6 engines have been known to have valves that are too tight as well. Just google it.
Kepp an eye on the fuel, but everything else looks good.
Originally Posted By: Hounds
Originally Posted By: Jimbo
I just took delivery of a 2010 Fit. The owners guide recommends not changing the initial fill oil until it says 15 percent or less oil life remaining. They mention that it is a special break in oil. This UOA shows nothing special, additive-wise, but it may be on the thin side of 20 for a reason. . . .
The moly # is what makes the FF a "special" break-in oil.
If the OP wants to stick with a high moly "special" oil, simply use the full syn' Honda brand 0W-20. The Toyota Brand 0W-20 would be another high moly option.
Originally Posted By: Jimbo
I just took delivery of a 2010 Fit. The owners guide recommends not changing the initial fill oil until it says 15 percent or less oil life remaining. They mention that it is a special break in oil. This UOA shows nothing special, additive-wise, but it may be on the thin side of 20 for a reason. . . .
The moly # is what makes the FF a "special" break-in oil.
If the OP wants to stick with a high moly "special" oil, simply use the full syn' Honda brand 0W-20. The Toyota Brand 0W-20 would be another high moly option.
Such a new engine and already a brew? Give the new car some love, at least pour in the same oil!
I'm not bashing Super Tech, just would not imagine not pouring in all 30wt or all 20wt.
I've mentioned my parents have a new Honda and while I am hundreds of miles away I know they have 9k on the FF ... it doesn't keep me up at night, but I think about it ... I am going to try real hard to UOA that FF.
I'm not bashing Super Tech, just would not imagine not pouring in all 30wt or all 20wt.
I've mentioned my parents have a new Honda and while I am hundreds of miles away I know they have 9k on the FF ... it doesn't keep me up at night, but I think about it ... I am going to try real hard to UOA that FF.
- Status
