2010 Honda Fit, 3,050 miles, factory fill

[Erik]

Originally Posted By: HondaMan
Such a new engine and already a brew? Give the new car some love, at least pour in the same oil!
I'm not bashing Super Tech, just would not imagine not pouring in all 30wt or all 20wt.



Next change will be with a reputable synthetic. I've read recommendations to run dino until 10k or so, and then switch. I was just trying to get rid of the dino stuff I had laying around.

 

[Eddie]

+1 Hondaman all the way. In no way would the "blend" be as good as the FF oil.

 

[Hounds]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Hounds
Originally Posted By: Jimbo
I just took delivery of a 2010 Fit. The owners guide recommends not changing the initial fill oil until it says 15 percent or less oil life remaining. They mention that it is a special break in oil. This UOA shows nothing special, additive-wise, but it may be on the thin side of 20 for a reason. . . .

The moly # is what makes the FF a "special" break-in oil.

If the OP wants to stick with a high moly "special" oil, simply use the full syn' Honda brand 0W-20. The Toyota Brand 0W-20 would be another high moly option.

Yep, that would do it. Both, I think, are 900 ppm, and at $5 (or so) per quart for the Toyota house-brand, a pretty good deal.

 

[goodtimes]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: goodtimes
That dealer is so typically full of beans, what car is made consistently with over tight valves so as to cause misfire? Are burned valves also part of a special break in? They talk like it is supposed to be that way.

That's what the dealer told me, after they did the work. They said that they see overly tight valves on this vehicles which sometimes cause misfire problems. I am not familiar enough with engines to verify the info, but all I can say is that the car runs a little better now than it did before.

Also, some Honda 3.5L V6 engines have been known to have valves that are too tight as well. Just google it.


Yeah, after some miles it may be true, thought you talking new or near new cars. The valves aren't too tight from the factory, they don't have 10 year olds doing it. Honda does know how to set valves, I'm pretty sure by now they can do it, almost as well as the guy at the dealer. It looks like the valves are not keeping their adjustments long enough, which is a whole other thing.

 

[Artem]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM


If the Fit is made in Japan then this likely is the Honda brand "Ultra Green" 0W-10 FF. See below:

www.honda.co.jp/auto-parts/oil/ultragreen/

Thanks for reporting.

 

[Erik]

Sorry to dig up this old thread, but I just did my third oil change on this car and wanted to see if anyone has any thoughts or comments on the results of the analysis done by Blackstone. The oil was 5W/20 walmart dino. After 17k on the engine, I've finally made the switch to syn with 5w/20 PP.

Thanks in advance for any insights.

 

[jca]

I think it's hard for anyone to give you any good input now because everything you've done to this point has been so random.

1. You dumped perfectly good FF oil with 6.2 TBN at 3000 mi.
2. That was replaced with some frankenbrew of I'm not sure what.
3. Then you ran ST 5w20 dino for 9,118 mi.

I wouldn't have done any of those three, let alone all of them. The only real trend I see is the viscosity is low on all three probably because of fuel. Some of that may be your sampling technique as mentioned earlier.

I would say run this new fill 9,000 mi, and then at least you would have something comparable to look at. The ST looks pretty wrecked at 9,000 but the PP should hold up better. You also don't mention what the OLM was saying about any of these oils.

 

[zanzabar]

Ouch, iron and aluminum are not good! Trending upwards is not where you want to be going. Your cylinder walls and piston rings are taking a beating here. At least copper trended down. These oils really have thinned quite a bit, so I'm going to assume it's related to this accelerated wear. I assume the silicon is related to normal engine break in, but check your air filter anyway.

I think you need to work on your driving habits, take the long way to work (30 miles or so) and get the oil temps up high to burn off some of the fuel once a week.

 

[Hokiefyd]

I wouldn't necessarily say that the wear metals are trending up. As I understand, wear metals track fairly linearly with miles. His first OCI was 3,000 miles and his last was 9,000 miles. Yet none of the wear metals in the latest round were 3x the initial change, which is where they'd be if the engine was wearing at the same rate.

And on the converse, I'm a little bit impressed with the Super Tech 5W-20. The engine didn't wear any faster than it did during break-in, it stayed in grade over 9,000 miles, and still had a little bit of life left. And in the grand scheme of things, 98% of Fit owners out there will run the car on the cheapest conventional oil, and will run it to 0% on the MM (or further) before changing the oil, and the engine will still last 200-300k miles.

That said, you would generally want the engine to start wearing SLOWER than it did on break-in. If you're one to do UOAs on every oil change to see good numbers, I would suggest doing 5k mile OCIs on conventional oil and start to track progress. If you're just doing UOAs to see how well Honda's MM works and how appropriate it is, run it out to 15% and check again.

 

[Erik]

Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
I wouldn't necessarily say that the wear metals are trending up. As I understand, wear metals track fairly linearly with miles. His first OCI was 3,000 miles and his last was 9,000 miles. Yet none of the wear metals in the latest round were 3x the initial change, which is where they'd be if the engine was wearing at the same rate.

And on the converse, I'm a little bit impressed with the Super Tech 5W-20. The engine didn't wear any faster than it did during break-in, it stayed in grade over 9,000 miles, and still had a little bit of life left. And in the grand scheme of things, 98% of Fit owners out there will run the car on the cheapest conventional oil, and will run it to 0% on the MM (or further) before changing the oil, and the engine will still last 200-300k miles.

That said, you would generally want the engine to start wearing SLOWER than it did on break-in. If you're one to do UOAs on every oil change to see good numbers, I would suggest doing 5k mile OCIs on conventional oil and start to track progress. If you're just doing UOAs to see how well Honda's MM works and how appropriate it is, run it out to 15% and check again.


Hokie, thanks for your thoughtful and well-reasoned input. I too thought the Super Tech did well for what it cost. For what it's worth, the Maintenance Minder was at 20% when I changed the oil. I hadn't really thought about assessing the effectiveness of the MM, I was just curious to know what's going on inside my engine and figured a UOA every oil change was the best way to find out. This is the first car for which I have had an analysis done every oil change. I'm not well-versed in the subtleties of reading them, nor have I invested lots of time reading through all the valuable information in these forums. I simply wanted more than just the interpretation provided by Blackstone. My intention is to run the PP out to 10,000 miles and then get another analysis done. If history is any measure, I'll be back to bump this thread in another 18 months or so.

Finally, I'm sorry if my seemingly random choices offended or insulted anyone here.

 

[Artem]

Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
If you're just doing UOAs to see how well Honda's MM works and how appropriate it is, run it out to 15% and check again.


Honda's MM @ 15% means that service is coming up.

5% is when they actually suggest you change the oil.

From my experience with the MM system in my 07 Civic EX is that it's approximately 1,000 +/- from 15% down to 5% when the OC is due.

 

[Artem]

Originally Posted By: Erik
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
I wouldn't necessarily say that the wear metals are trending up. As I understand, wear metals track fairly linearly with miles. His first OCI was 3,000 miles and his last was 9,000 miles. Yet none of the wear metals in the latest round were 3x the initial change, which is where they'd be if the engine was wearing at the same rate.

And on the converse, I'm a little bit impressed with the Super Tech 5W-20. The engine didn't wear any faster than it did during break-in, it stayed in grade over 9,000 miles, and still had a little bit of life left. And in the grand scheme of things, 98% of Fit owners out there will run the car on the cheapest conventional oil, and will run it to 0% on the MM (or further) before changing the oil, and the engine will still last 200-300k miles.

That said, you would generally want the engine to start wearing SLOWER than it did on break-in. If you're one to do UOAs on every oil change to see good numbers, I would suggest doing 5k mile OCIs on conventional oil and start to track progress. If you're just doing UOAs to see how well Honda's MM works and how appropriate it is, run it out to 15% and check again.


Hokie, thanks for your thoughtful and well-reasoned input. I too thought the Super Tech did well for what it cost. For what it's worth, the Maintenance Minder was at 20% when I changed the oil. I hadn't really thought about assessing the effectiveness of the MM, I was just curious to know what's going on inside my engine and figured a UOA every oil change was the best way to find out. This is the first car for which I have had an analysis done every oil change. I'm not well-versed in the subtleties of reading them, nor have I invested lots of time reading through all the valuable information in these forums. I simply wanted more than just the interpretation provided by Blackstone. My intention is to run the PP out to 10,000 miles and then get another analysis done. If history is any measure, I'll be back to bump this thread in another 18 months or so.

Finally, I'm sorry if my seemingly random choices offended or insulted anyone here.


The PP @ 10k sounds pretty good in this engine right about now.

I say you resample @ 5-15% oil life remaining which should put you at about 10-11k depending on your driving conditions.

See you next year!