2010 Ford 5.4L 3V - MC 5W20 or M1 AFE 0W20

[thr_wedge]

I recently purchased a 2010 Ford Expedition, 3V 5.4L. It was serviced by the dealer just prior to buying the vehicle. Currently it has Castrol 5W20 and a Federated LF110 filter, based on the sticker that says to change at 71k (vehicle was purchased with 68k).

I plan to change the oil in December (which should also be ~71k). I am sure the oil will still be fine with only 3k on the it, but I want to 1) know exactly what is in the vehicle 2) get it onto my 2x a year OCI schedule.

Vehicle will see 85% city driving, 15% highway. Could be as high as 90%/10% city/highway. It is almost all short trips (under 5 miles). I plan to use a Motorcraft filter. I am debating whether to use MC 5W20 Semi-synthetic, or Mobil1 0W20 AFE. Mileage between oil changes will generally be ~4k (of stop and go short trip city driving). Difference in cost between the two oils is ~$20/year (based on 2x year OCI).

I also drive a 2012 Mazda6 i which is spec'd for 0W20. I still have a two free oil changes on the Mazda6 i, and then plan to use a MC filter, and 0W20 AFE. The Mazda6 sees ~60 miles a day, 50% stop and go, 50% highway. So I am partially leaning towards 0W20 for the 5.4L only for inventory simplicity.

Thanks for the help!

 

[dparm]

AFE is going to be a waste if you're not planning to run a longer change interval.

Go for the Motorcarft 5w20.

 

[lubedude13]

I'd use a 0w20. Pennzoil if you can find it. Mobil or Amsoil has 3 offerings

 

[SwampSurvivor]

I would use the 0w-20 for longer drain intervals and stock the same oils for both vehicles. Seems like it would be the most straightforward thing to do.

With that said, the MC5w-20 is also a good oil.

Do you want to use the same oil for both or do you not mind having two seperate oils?

 

[thr_wedge]

I don't mind using two oils, I am the only one doing oil changes so it is not a concern that the wrong oil will be used.

My only real concern is that the Expedition only sees super short trips of under 5 miles.

I have good anecdotal experience with both oils.

My sis-in-law once went over 15k and over a year on 5W20 and MC filter (my fault I should have just taken her car and did the change one day, I had been doing all maintenance on the vehicle). Filter looked good when I cut it open, under the valve cover didn't look any worse than last times I had looked, car was running fine. I did not get a UOA.

Our previous cars were both Turbos that required 5W30. Used Mobil1 and never had an oil related issue in either vehicle. I never had a warranty issue. Needed to get the VVT actuator in the CX7 changed out, a lot of people were getting it denied saying sludge caused the issue, my engine was clean as a whistle, they changed it that day. My friend swears by M1 in his race car.

Like dparm says though, the M1 is probably overkill and a waste on a 4k change...

 

[Falcon_LS]

I'd go for the AFE and extend your oil changes to 6k or so.

 

[Lex94]

Mobil 1 0w20 has a Dexos 1 spec that assures higher wear performance over other 0w20 oils.

 

[KCJeep]

You're in Texas, Motorcraft 5w20 all the way.

 

[stchman]

Seeing as the OP lives in Texas, using 0W oil is not necessary.

I would recommend using Mobil 1 5W-20(5W-20 is the viscosity Ford recommends) over Motorcraft synthetic blend. I don't know how much Motorcraft oil costs, but Walmart has Mobil 1 for ~$23 a 5 quart jug.

 

[toneydoc]

You live in TX use the motorcraft 5w20 and don't sweat it

 

[lubedude13]

When you can buy mobil 0w20 for about $4.50 a quart why pay the same for motor craft???

 

[CarbonSteel]

Howdy Neighbor!

As an owner of the exact engine/year that you have I can state unequivocally that it will not care (within reason) what you run in it (I have run M1, MC, MS5K, and PU in mine). I am in the process of a 15K run with M1 0W-20 AFE and it looked really good at 10K. For simplicity sake and cost too (if you buy a few jugs to prevent buying single quarts) I would run M1 0W-20 in both vehicles. Since this is a synthetic, you could run a couple of UOAs to set your baseline and go from there. There is quite a bit of headroom in the OEM OCIs (5,000 and 7,500 miles) so you could likely go past your one year deadline--a UOA will tell you for sure.

I have ran MC oil filters on mine and they work great (in fact, price versus performance they are hard to beat). Hope this helps!

 

[thr_wedge]

Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Howdy Neighbor!

As an owner of the exact engine/year that you have I can state unequivocally that it will not care (within reason) what you run in it (I have run M1, MC, MS5K, and PU in mine). I am in the process of a 15K run with M1 0W-20 AFE and it looked really good at 10K. For simplicity sake and cost too (if you buy a few jugs to prevent buying single quarts) I would run M1 0W-20 in both vehicles. Since this is a synthetic, you could run a couple of UOAs to set your baseline and go from there. There is quite a bit of headroom in the OEM OCIs (5,000 and 7,500 miles) so you could likely go past your one year deadline--a UOA will tell you for sure.

I have ran MC oil filters on mine and they work great (in fact, price versus performance they are hard to beat). Hope this helps!


Thanks for all the feedback. Looks like you are racking up the miles on your 2010. I know that the previous owner did on ours as well! My biggest concern is all the short trips. I'll have to just get a UOA and see. I am sure I am over thinking the situation.

 

[dave1251]

I would do a UOA at 5K with the PCMO of your choice and then go from there. As a fellow 2010 5.4 owner you could almost use canola oil and your engine would not complain.

 

[thr_wedge]

Originally Posted By: dave1251
I would do a UOA at 5K with the PCMO of your choice and then go from there. As a fellow 2010 5.4 owner you could almost use canola oil and your engine would not complain.


Thanks again for all the feedback. It's great to hear so many happy 5.4L owners.

I prefer EVOO, it smells better.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Originally Posted By: thr_wedge
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Howdy Neighbor!

As an owner of the exact engine/year that you have I can state unequivocally that it will not care (within reason) what you run in it (I have run M1, MC, MS5K, and PU in mine). I am in the process of a 15K run with M1 0W-20 AFE and it looked really good at 10K. For simplicity sake and cost too (if you buy a few jugs to prevent buying single quarts) I would run M1 0W-20 in both vehicles. Since this is a synthetic, you could run a couple of UOAs to set your baseline and go from there. There is quite a bit of headroom in the OEM OCIs (5,000 and 7,500 miles) so you could likely go past your one year deadline--a UOA will tell you for sure.

I have ran MC oil filters on mine and they work great (in fact, price versus performance they are hard to beat). Hope this helps!


Thanks for all the feedback. Looks like you are racking up the miles on your 2010. I know that the previous owner did on ours as well! My biggest concern is all the short trips. I'll have to just get a UOA and see. I am sure I am over thinking the situation.



Are you able to get it on the highway once a week to get it up to temperature? If you are able to get it up to temperature somewhat regularly, the short tripping won't be a problem.

 

[thr_wedge]

Originally Posted By: Miller88
Are you able to get it on the highway once a week to get it up to temperature? If you are able to get it up to temperature somewhat regularly, the short tripping won't be a problem.


Good question. That's a bit of a variable. It's the family truckster, so it all depends on what the weekend plans hold. Some weekends it's a 150 mile round trip out somewhere, other weekends it's going to a local park 5 miles away.

 

[KD0AXS]

I've also got a 3V 5.4 currently with 108,000 miles on it. It's been very happy on Maxlife 5W-20, but I've now got a stash of 50 quarts of PP 5W-20, so that's what it will be getting for a few OCIs.