2010 Accord: 150k Maintenance

[Phishin]

Last night after work, my 2010 Accord, sitting with 150k miles on her, received a little TLC:
--6 fresh quarts of Honda DW-1 ATF with 10 oz. Lubegard Red (1.5 quarts x 4 sucked out of the dip stick hole)
--3 pints of fresh Honda PSF (multiple D&F's out of the reservior)
--New OEM Bando serpentine belt
--New OEM PCV Valve
--Napa Gold Air Filter
--New Trico Wiper Blades

This fall, I'll probably do another freshening of the ATF. Besides that, she's probably go to go until the 200k mile mark. Then I'll be ready for valve adjustment, all kinds of new fluids, and plugs.

 

[bubbatime]

Forget sucking the ATF out of the dip stick hole. Do the drain and fill. 2.8 quarts at a time. I have almost 750K miles on Honda cars and the drain and fill is actually easier and quicker than an oil change. Ive done a drain and fill every 30K miles and have never had a transmission problem, even high mileage cars.

 

[Phishin]

Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Forget sucking the ATF out of the dip stick hole. Do the drain and fill. 2.8 quarts at a time. I have almost 750K miles on Honda cars and the drain and fill is actually easier and quicker than an oil change. Ive done a drain and fill every 30K miles and have never had a transmission problem, even high mileage cars.


It only took me 30-40 minutes to do four 1.5 quart D&F's....

I'm having a hard time removing the drain plug. Plus, I don't like to crawl under the car unless I have to (oil changes).

 

[maxdustington]

Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Forget sucking the ATF out of the dip stick hole. Do the drain and fill. 2.8 quarts at a time. I have almost 750K miles on Honda cars and the drain and fill is actually easier and quicker than an oil change. Ive done a drain and fill every 30K miles and have never had a transmission problem, even high mileage cars.


He got more than double the fluid out that you do with a D&F, leave him be. No spilling it everywhere or having to transfer the fluid from the drain pan to a graduated container.

 

[SatinSilver]

Originally Posted By: maxdustington
He got more than double the fluid out that you do with a D&F, leave him be. No spilling it everywhere or having to transfer the fluid from the drain pan to a graduated container.


No he got about half of what a drain and fill removes. The first time getting the drain bolt off can be tough. Have a mechanic get it off the first time for you. After that should be easy. Get some new washers also. This is the method Honda recommends also.

Good job on getting a fair amount of work done to it.

Phishin, are those wheels powder coated and how much were they to do that?

 

[maxdustington]

Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
Originally Posted By: maxdustington
He got more than double the fluid out that you do with a D&F, leave him be. No spilling it everywhere or having to transfer the fluid from the drain pan to a graduated container.


No he got about half of what a drain and fill removes. The first time getting the drain bolt off can be tough. Have a mechanic get it off the first time for you. After that should be easy. Get some new washers also. This is the method Honda recommends also.

Good job on getting a fair amount of work done to it.


Did you read the post bud? He did 4 1.5 D&Fs for a total of 6 quarts to 2.8

6>2.8 in Canada anyway.....

EDIT: Getting a mechanic to break a bolt lose for you? Do you ask the cashier at the check out to crack your jar of pickles open, too?

 

[Schmoe]

I do the suck/refill thing on the CRV, removing that shroud is a PITA. I get two quarts almost exactly through the fill pipe. The wife drives it for about a couple of days, then I do it again, 4 quarts total. Then do that about every 50K or so. I'll say one thing, that DW-1 ATF has a smell that no other ATF I've ever used as, wonder what it is. I know a lot of us Honda owners still remember the AT problems Honda had around 2000, but are we overdoing it now? I'm really not hearing a lot of transmission failures any more post 2004.

 

[Phishin]

Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
Good job on getting a fair amount of work done to it.

Phishin, are those wheels powder coated and how much were they to do that?


Satin: I actually sucked out 1.5 quarts, but did the process 4 times. So I actually removed 6 quarts (not actually six quarts, since a bit of the drains after the first one was a mix of new ATF as well)....so let's call it 5 quarts of old ATF that I removed. LOL!!

Yeah, those wheels are factory Honda wheels (18" that came off of a 2013 Sport, I believe). My car came with steelies and wheel covers....so when it was time for new tires, I bought a tire and wheel combo from Detroit Wheel and Tire. They have a website and sell on Ebay. It's a very reputable place.

Originally Posted By: Schmoe
I do the suck/refill thing on the CRV, removing that shroud is a PITA. I get two quarts almost exactly through the fill pipe. The wife drives it for about a couple of days, then I do it again, 4 quarts total. Then do that about every 50K or so. I'll say one thing, that DW-1 ATF has a smell that no other ATF I've ever used as, wonder what it is. I know a lot of us Honda owners still remember the AT problems Honda had around 2000, but are we overdoing it now? I'm really not hearing a lot of transmission failures any more post 2004.


Yeah, I like the smell of this stuff. It's unique, for sure.

I used to do the "drive around for a few days and do the D&F's again....but I'm confident that a 5-10 minute brisk run around is really all that's needed to mix the old with the new. Maybe I'm wrong???

I don't know about "over doing it"....since I plan to drive this car to 500k miles. I know the engine won't have a problem. The tranny is the only thing that could give me trouble. So to me, it's cheap insurance.

 

[THORROMIG]

Good for you with the TLC on the Honda -- looks sharp with the Gold paint paired with those rims. I just put a new Bando Serpentine belt on the Acura in signature last Saturday. Im at 103,066 on the mileage on the Acura and getting ready to order the OEM timing belt replacement kit for the 105,000 mile required change. My buddy who lives a block away from me only charges $250.00 to do it after I buy the kit.

Dale

 

[maxdustington]

Originally Posted By: BAJA_05
Good for you with the TLC on the Honda -- looks sharp with the Gold paint paired with those rims.


The rims really bug me on this car. I am not a huge fan of blacking out cars, that is so 2008. I am glad that fad has passed. You see a lot more black rims on new cars now, I assume because it is cheaper than chroming them or polishing them.

Personally I think they need a really bright colour to contrast with. They look good with a loud colour, I will admit that. It reminds me of the cars that someone put cheap black aftermarket rims on that are too big and now the car looks like a 4X4. I just think it is over done and tacky.

No offense OP, my sister has the same car.

 

[zorobabel]

Rather than doing consecutive drain/fills, I would space them out at 10k or 15k.

 

[dgunay]

Nice. Did you adjust the valves at 100k? or is it going to be the first time at 200k?

Also, why did you add Lubegard stuff in ATF?

 

[bubbatime]

Originally Posted By: maxdustington
Did you read the post bud? He did 4 1.5 D&Fs for a total of 6 quarts to 2.8


So I was curios and did the math....

His transmission does not have 6 quarts of new fluid in it. His transmission has a capacity of 6.9 quarts. He changes 1.5 quarts at a time. He changes 21.7% of the oil each time.

First change - 1.5 quarts of new oil, 5.4 quarts of old oil, 21.7% new oil
Second change - 2.67 quarts of new oil, 4.23 quarts of old oil 38.7% new oil
Third oil change - 3.59 quarts of new oil, 3.31 quarts of old oil, 52% new oil
Fourth change - 4.32 quarts of new oil, 2.58 quarts of old oil 62% new oil

So 6 quarts of new oil was used, but only 4.32 quarts of new oil was in the transmission afterwards, and 1.68 quarts of new oil was discarded.

A drop and fill using the drain changes 81% of the oil after 3 drop and fills, and changes 43% of the oil each time.

If you are going to do a drop and fill every 30K miles, it looks like you will need to do a suck and fill every 15k miles, using your method for the same amount of fluid exchange.

So keep doing what you are doing. Change 1.5 quarts every 15K miles.


Use one of these extend a ratchets to loosen the transmission drain plug (use the 3/8 square, no socket needed). Replace the crush washer each time. They are cheap on eBay.

 

[SatinSilver]

Originally Posted By: maxdustington
I assume because it is cheaper than chroming them or polishing them.


You know what they say about people that assume too much. I'm sure you do it a lot.

 

[Phishin]

Originally Posted By: dgunay
Nice. Did you adjust the valves at 100k? or is it going to be the first time at 200k?

Also, why did you add Lubegard stuff in ATF?


The valves have never been adjusted. Car runs great. MPG's are still near as they were when new. I've read MANY reports stating that after 100--120k miles, the valves were usually within spec or just outside and they were adjust back to the middle of the spec. So I figured, I'd wait until 200k miles, as long as I don't notice any difference in how it runs, before I have this service completed. I'm not going to do it myself.

I've always used LubeGard Red in my vehicles. I'm not trying to "fix" any problem. I think there's a real benefit it running this product and use it as a preventative measure.

Originally Posted By: bubbatime

His transmission does not have 6 quarts of new fluid in it. His transmission has a capacity of 6.9 quarts. He changes 1.5 quarts at a time. He changes 21.7% of the oil each time.

First change - 1.5 quarts of new oil, 5.4 quarts of old oil, 21.7% new oil
Second change - 2.67 quarts of new oil, 4.23 quarts of old oil 38.7% new oil
Third oil change - 3.59 quarts of new oil, 3.31 quarts of old oil, 52% new oil
Fourth change - 4.32 quarts of new oil, 2.58 quarts of old oil 62% new oil

So 6 quarts of new oil was used, but only 4.32 quarts of new oil was in the transmission afterwards, and 1.68 quarts of new oil was discarded.

A drop and fill using the drain changes 81% of the oil after 3 drop and fills, and changes 43% of the oil each time.


Thanks for the math!! But for my ease and lack of mess, I'm going to continue to use my MityVac 8100 and the protocol I've described above. This car is usually only driven on the highway for long stretches (to take my son across the country to BMX races), so the tranny doesn't shift much.

I did a complete 100% fluid exchange (using a machine at the Honda dealer) at 96k miles. Then at 128k, I swapped out 4.5 quarts using (3 x 1.5 quarts) and then yesterday, I did swapped out 6 quarts (4 x 1.5 quarts). I'm fairly confident, considering how the car is driven, that I'm being overly cautious in my ATF schedule. Thanks for the info Bubbatime!!

 

[Patrick_T]

Nice car! I wish my white 2008 looked that nice.

I may try that method of doing ATF ... that plastic shield is no fun to remove to do drain and fill.

What size tires do you run 225 or 235-45-18? I just picked up some gunmetal HFP 18's I am going to install soon.

Do you swap between 0w20 and 10w30 or just mix them?

I am 200+ now and everything is fine so far ... will be doing valve adjustment soon and will take pics of valve train (200k on 20wt).

Cheers

 

[Phishin]

Originally Posted By: Patrick_T
Nice car! I wish my white 2008 looked that nice.

I may try that method of doing ATF ... that plastic shield is no fun to remove to do drain and fill.

What size tires do you run 225 or 235-45-18? I just picked up some gunmetal HFP 18's I am going to install soon.

Do you swap between 0w20 and 10w30 or just mix them?

I am 200+ now and everything is fine so far ... will be doing valve adjustment soon and will take pics of valve train (200k on 20wt).

Cheers


I am doing a 50/50 mix of VSP 0w20 and MaxLife 10w30 with BioTech onboard.
Current tires are 235/45R18 Michelin Primacy

Please post pics of your valve train when you do it. I'm anxious to see how mine looks when I pull the valve cover off. Probably next year.....