Originally Posted by Trav
Originally Posted by PandaBear
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Swap the coil and plug to another cylinder and see if the misfire moves. If it does, then you know it was either the plug or coil. If it doesn't move then you got more troubleshooting to do..use or borrow an OBD2 reader if you don't have one, to see what's going on with the suspect cylinder in real time. Be sure to pull the plug and look for fouling/moisture. Your coil could be good but your plug bad or even worse.
If the bad coil is hard to get to like under a plenum, replace with the OE. If the bad coil is easy to get to (staring at you) and cost is a factor, buy a Duralast from AutoZone. But replacing it with the OE is always the preferred choice when it comes to coils. It's worth mentioning that you normally would replace coil and plugs in sets; cyl 1 &:3, 2 & 4.
This
I wouldn't change a coil just for laughs unless the vehicle was a known for having coil issues, I don't believe this one is but to each their own. Not my place to tell people how to spend their money.
When I recently had a failed original factory coil on my cyl 1, I had to make a decision just to replace the one or do all 3 on that bank which coincidentally is a pain in the azzz to do, easily a 2hr job. I chose to replace all 3 because the last thing I wanted to happen was have another fail 3months down the road and have to take everything off again. While the other 2 factory coils still technically worked, they were showing signs of wear after 10yrs of service (shocking, I know). And by getting a deal on 3 coils as opposed to buying just the 1, it brought the cost per coil down a lot. For me it was a no brainier, replace all 3 plugs and put new coils on and not have to (likely) worry about that bank for the remaining time I own the car. I didn't spend the money willy nilly, the cost to benefit in my estimation clearly favored doing them all. As I clarified in my subsequent post, this might not be the preferred approach for someone with an inline 4. However even in a 10yr old 4cyl w/factory coils in there where the windings on one coil are going bad, it's probably not long before another coil fails. Leave them in and pray if another one fails that it happens while parked in the driveway or take the chance your 10yr old coils will last another 100k? There's no hard and fast rule in my book when you're talking about a 10yr old car. So to each his own, everyone has different concerns..like can they even afford to replace more than one? - I get that.
(a lot of things should be factored in like what caused that coil to fail? Was it poor maintenance changing out plugs, causing the coil packs to work harder for extended periods of time? Has low grade fuel or additive overuse caused fouling, causing the coils to work harder? And so on and so on..)
Originally Posted by PandaBear
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Swap the coil and plug to another cylinder and see if the misfire moves. If it does, then you know it was either the plug or coil. If it doesn't move then you got more troubleshooting to do..use or borrow an OBD2 reader if you don't have one, to see what's going on with the suspect cylinder in real time. Be sure to pull the plug and look for fouling/moisture. Your coil could be good but your plug bad or even worse.
If the bad coil is hard to get to like under a plenum, replace with the OE. If the bad coil is easy to get to (staring at you) and cost is a factor, buy a Duralast from AutoZone. But replacing it with the OE is always the preferred choice when it comes to coils. It's worth mentioning that you normally would replace coil and plugs in sets; cyl 1 &:3, 2 & 4.
This
I wouldn't change a coil just for laughs unless the vehicle was a known for having coil issues, I don't believe this one is but to each their own. Not my place to tell people how to spend their money.
When I recently had a failed original factory coil on my cyl 1, I had to make a decision just to replace the one or do all 3 on that bank which coincidentally is a pain in the azzz to do, easily a 2hr job. I chose to replace all 3 because the last thing I wanted to happen was have another fail 3months down the road and have to take everything off again. While the other 2 factory coils still technically worked, they were showing signs of wear after 10yrs of service (shocking, I know). And by getting a deal on 3 coils as opposed to buying just the 1, it brought the cost per coil down a lot. For me it was a no brainier, replace all 3 plugs and put new coils on and not have to (likely) worry about that bank for the remaining time I own the car. I didn't spend the money willy nilly, the cost to benefit in my estimation clearly favored doing them all. As I clarified in my subsequent post, this might not be the preferred approach for someone with an inline 4. However even in a 10yr old 4cyl w/factory coils in there where the windings on one coil are going bad, it's probably not long before another coil fails. Leave them in and pray if another one fails that it happens while parked in the driveway or take the chance your 10yr old coils will last another 100k? There's no hard and fast rule in my book when you're talking about a 10yr old car. So to each his own, everyone has different concerns..like can they even afford to replace more than one? - I get that.
(a lot of things should be factored in like what caused that coil to fail? Was it poor maintenance changing out plugs, causing the coil packs to work harder for extended periods of time? Has low grade fuel or additive overuse caused fouling, causing the coils to work harder? And so on and so on..)
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