Here's another vote for patching the hole, putting on a new filter and oil, and seeing if it will run. You're talking about spending, what, $50 vs thousands? Take the easier/cheaper route first, see what happens. If all is good, congrats. Like another poster said, there may still have been enough oil clinging to parts to prevent major damage.
2008 Ford Escape 4 cyl driven w/o oil in it
- Thread starter LoneRanger
- Start date
- Status
Get a reman Marshall engine via RockAuto.
If you patch it and it runs for another year you've put off a major financial commitment. I don't see a major risk in trying it as is. You'll know pretty soon if things are in rough shape, I would think.
I agree. Slap a filter on it, fill it with some PYB of Havoline DS 10W-30 for a thousand miles, and change it with the regular 5W-20 and filter. Check the filter for metal shavings, and get a UOA done. Also, check for oil burning. If the UOA comes back relatively clean, and it doesn't burn any oil, you could have gotten away mostly scot free. I think these engines are a lot more durable than people are giving them credit for.
An oil pressure gauge is a good idea, you can pick one up for relatively cheap too.
An oil pressure gauge is a good idea, you can pick one up for relatively cheap too.
It might be fine. Put a filter on it and see if it will run, if it does I'd trade it in.
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2007
- Messages
- 5,293
Just googling, I found this place selling used engines. Assume the price is with core credit applied. For example, #11 in the list: $1582 w/ free shipping for a 42,000 engine with 1 yr warranty.
http://www.automotix.net/usedengines/200...1&seq_num=5
http://www.automotix.net/usedengines/200...1&seq_num=5
Originally Posted By: LoneRanger
Just googling, I found this place selling used engines. Assume the price is with core credit applied. $1582 w/ free shipping for a 42,000 engine with 1 yr warranty.
http://www.automotix.net/usedengines/200...1&seq_num=5
You can if you want. I still say you should try it as is. IMO the engine will probably be fine once it has oil and any junk washed out.
Just googling, I found this place selling used engines. Assume the price is with core credit applied. $1582 w/ free shipping for a 42,000 engine with 1 yr warranty.
http://www.automotix.net/usedengines/200...1&seq_num=5
You can if you want. I still say you should try it as is. IMO the engine will probably be fine once it has oil and any junk washed out.
OP get some Supertech in either the recommended grade or one grade up and see what happens. There was a BMW Mini Cooper driven something like 304 quarts low on oil at high speeds for EXTENDED perioids of time and all it did was run normal when new oil was added (seems it eats up its sludge when oil is low/not there.)
How does it run after you put OIL in there? And did the light come on? Re-reading..
You may not necessarily have trashed your engine although if that also happens the one time you wanted to pretend you have a Ferrari when you had no/low oil you may have. Tell us how it acts when it is full to the crosshairs of the dipstick on Supertech.
FTR i had to run a car with about two quarts of oil in it to get across town once, and it didnt much lik eit.. the engine got very hot and it wasnt a good idea to change oil BEFORE having enough oil to put back in. It lived, but not for as long as i would have liked. Heat was the giveaway it was low. Very hot, very unlubricated.
How does it run after you put OIL in there? And did the light come on? Re-reading..
You may not necessarily have trashed your engine although if that also happens the one time you wanted to pretend you have a Ferrari when you had no/low oil you may have. Tell us how it acts when it is full to the crosshairs of the dipstick on Supertech.
FTR i had to run a car with about two quarts of oil in it to get across town once, and it didnt much lik eit.. the engine got very hot and it wasnt a good idea to change oil BEFORE having enough oil to put back in. It lived, but not for as long as i would have liked. Heat was the giveaway it was low. Very hot, very unlubricated.
Originally Posted By: LoneRanger
Family member encountered a road hazard that took out the oil filter. Filter completely sheered off, hanging by about a 1/2" shard of the outter casing. Literally dangling like a fuzzy dice from a rear view mirror. Oil warning light on instrument panel lit up, but Einstein chose to continue driving approx 5 or 6 miles to get home. Also put about a nickel sized hole in the base of the dipstick tube where it connects to the oil pan.
I'm thinking the engine is a spalled up galled up scored mess inside. Suppose I need to have it taken apart and inspected. Although I'm inclined to repair the dipstick foundation damage, throw a filter on, put oil in and see what happens.
Also, if in a pinch, you can JB-Weld the pan. Ive done it before, and if done right and left to cure and not rushed it WILL hold. (And if rushed it will somewhat hold but drip, and you will eventually have to do it again, the less oil in there the better for that.)
Tell us what happens!
If that engine cranks, it might have life left. Not pretty in there, no, but im thinking it may run.
Family member encountered a road hazard that took out the oil filter. Filter completely sheered off, hanging by about a 1/2" shard of the outter casing. Literally dangling like a fuzzy dice from a rear view mirror. Oil warning light on instrument panel lit up, but Einstein chose to continue driving approx 5 or 6 miles to get home. Also put about a nickel sized hole in the base of the dipstick tube where it connects to the oil pan.
I'm thinking the engine is a spalled up galled up scored mess inside. Suppose I need to have it taken apart and inspected. Although I'm inclined to repair the dipstick foundation damage, throw a filter on, put oil in and see what happens.
Also, if in a pinch, you can JB-Weld the pan. Ive done it before, and if done right and left to cure and not rushed it WILL hold. (And if rushed it will somewhat hold but drip, and you will eventually have to do it again, the less oil in there the better for that.)
Tell us what happens!
If that engine cranks, it might have life left. Not pretty in there, no, but im thinking it may run.
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2007
- Messages
- 5,293
Going to try the filter, oil, and JB Weld repair first. Nothing to lose at this point. Do you all think I should put in the usual 5W20 this motor is supposed to take or up it to 10W30 for better initial film strength etc.?
JB Marine Weld, house brand filter, and 5 qts Mobil Super $27.75 after tax @ Advance Auto Parts :~)
Pan is good. No holes. Its the little bell shaped sheet metal type fitting that is attached to top edge of pan that the dispstick tube attachs to that has the nickel size hole punched in it. I figure since this is not under pressure during normal (no PCV system probs) operation, that patching it with a piece of sheet metal and JB Weld should be fine. Question is, did anything fall into the hole and thus into the pan?
JB Marine Weld, house brand filter, and 5 qts Mobil Super $27.75 after tax @ Advance Auto Parts :~)
Pan is good. No holes. Its the little bell shaped sheet metal type fitting that is attached to top edge of pan that the dispstick tube attachs to that has the nickel size hole punched in it. I figure since this is not under pressure during normal (no PCV system probs) operation, that patching it with a piece of sheet metal and JB Weld should be fine. Question is, did anything fall into the hole and thus into the pan?
Originally Posted By: LoneRanger
Going to try the filter, oil, and JB Weld repair first. Nothing to lose at this point. Do you all think I should put in the usual 5W20 this motor is supposed to take or up it to 10W30 for better initial film strength etc.?
JB Marine Weld, house brand filter, and 5 qts Mobil Super $27.75 after tax @ Advance Auto Parts :~)
Pan is good. No holes. Its the little bell shaped sheet metal type fitting that is attached to top edge of pan that the dispstick tube attachs to that has the nickel size hole punched in it. I figure since this is not under pressure during normal (no PCV system probs) operation, that patching it with a piece of sheet metal and JB Weld should be fine. Question is, did anything fall into the hole and thus into the pan?
As I said earlier, I would pick up some 10W-30, (5W-30 if you are in a place where it's cold) Havoline DS if you can find it, and a PureONE filter. Havoline is an excellent conventional oil, and a good price. Go with the good filter to help filter out any junk. Leave that in for about a thousand miles, and change it out with Motorcraft Blend 5W-20, and a Motorcraft filter.
Going to try the filter, oil, and JB Weld repair first. Nothing to lose at this point. Do you all think I should put in the usual 5W20 this motor is supposed to take or up it to 10W30 for better initial film strength etc.?
JB Marine Weld, house brand filter, and 5 qts Mobil Super $27.75 after tax @ Advance Auto Parts :~)
Pan is good. No holes. Its the little bell shaped sheet metal type fitting that is attached to top edge of pan that the dispstick tube attachs to that has the nickel size hole punched in it. I figure since this is not under pressure during normal (no PCV system probs) operation, that patching it with a piece of sheet metal and JB Weld should be fine. Question is, did anything fall into the hole and thus into the pan?
As I said earlier, I would pick up some 10W-30, (5W-30 if you are in a place where it's cold) Havoline DS if you can find it, and a PureONE filter. Havoline is an excellent conventional oil, and a good price. Go with the good filter to help filter out any junk. Leave that in for about a thousand miles, and change it out with Motorcraft Blend 5W-20, and a Motorcraft filter.
Last edited:
"If" it runs fine, it might not be a bad idea to drain the oil after a short run and strain it, looking for chunks and so on. I'd use a paint filter, then a coffee filter. Also, do this while the oil is still clean enough to make a careful visual inspection. Looking for glitter too.
Same goes for the filter element, inspect carefully! Don't cut it apart with a hacksaw, but rather, use a filter cutter, large pipe cutter, or chisel and tin shears. Pull the element apart and flatten it out. Look for aluminum slivers. They will be from the cam bearings in the head.
Just in case you were wondering, modern cars don't produce any metal swarf or slivers that would be visible in the oil filter element or drain oil. With the possible exception of the first oil change. Even then, none is expected.
Same goes for the filter element, inspect carefully! Don't cut it apart with a hacksaw, but rather, use a filter cutter, large pipe cutter, or chisel and tin shears. Pull the element apart and flatten it out. Look for aluminum slivers. They will be from the cam bearings in the head.
Just in case you were wondering, modern cars don't produce any metal swarf or slivers that would be visible in the oil filter element or drain oil. With the possible exception of the first oil change. Even then, none is expected.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2007
- Messages
- 5,293
Just rigged the dipstick tube hole with a patch & JB Weld. Will post some before/after pics after supper. And I do mean rigged. Was worth a try.
I'd go with the recommended oil even now. I also might initially use a cheap oil run it for up to 500 miles incase the condition of the engine stresses the oil and then refill with another fresh change.
I gotta be honest I think it will run but it will show accelerated wear at some point.
I gotta be honest I think it will run but it will show accelerated wear at some point.
We've had a couple cars come through my work with oil pressure lights on and absolutely no oil in the pan that are still chugging along after a filter change and oil top off. All of them were Hondas though. Keep your fingers crossed!
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2007
- Messages
- 5,293
Used pull tab from soft drink can for patch material. Correct general shape and little bit larger than hole so it can't enter. Had to work a bit to conform tab to contour of the hole.
Originally Posted By: dishdude
Wow, and idea what the road hazard was?
X2 what kind of "road hazard" was this? My friend was on a road that was being paved by the town. They had no signs or anything saying there was roadwork. He was driving normal speed when his car (chevy cobalt) dropped into a dug up part of the road, which wrecked his oil pan. Luckily he stopped right when it happened so he didn't wreck the engine. The town ended up buying him a new oil pan.
Wow, and idea what the road hazard was?
X2 what kind of "road hazard" was this? My friend was on a road that was being paved by the town. They had no signs or anything saying there was roadwork. He was driving normal speed when his car (chevy cobalt) dropped into a dug up part of the road, which wrecked his oil pan. Luckily he stopped right when it happened so he didn't wreck the engine. The town ended up buying him a new oil pan.
BTW anyone remember that thread where the guy bought the Camry from the Hyundai dealer that had engine damage. This kids is how that car got the engine warranty voided.
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
BTW anyone remember that thread where the guy bought the Camry from the Hyundai dealer that had engine damage. This kids is how that car got the engine warranty voided.
Or the guy who took his less than a year old Ford F450 diesel back to the dealer for a simple recall fix, and the tech spots an aftermarket propane kit on the engine.
Sir... here's your truck back. We got the recall taken care of, and by the way, we voided your warranty as well. Have a nice day.
BTW anyone remember that thread where the guy bought the Camry from the Hyundai dealer that had engine damage. This kids is how that car got the engine warranty voided.
Or the guy who took his less than a year old Ford F450 diesel back to the dealer for a simple recall fix, and the tech spots an aftermarket propane kit on the engine.
Sir... here's your truck back. We got the recall taken care of, and by the way, we voided your warranty as well. Have a nice day.
- Status