Hello all i just purchased a 08 Dodge durango with the newer 4.7 liter with 303 hp. I still have my 2003 Durango with the older 235hp 4.7. I have been using MC5w20 in that motor with 7-9k miles changes with out any problems. You guys think I should be ok with the newer 4.7 and the changes? I do have a stash of syntetic for wifes MB as well that I can use instead of MC.
2008 Dodge Durango
- Thread starter SEBZX79
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SEBZX79,
I've been using synthetic oil in my 01' Durango 4.7 since bought new and have had good results from doing the switch. Like the others have said using dino I woun'd go those miles without doing any type of UOA on it. Your much better off using a high mileage synthetic like Mobil 1 "extended" or Castrol "edge" amd going a full 10K. You know using that type of synthetic you won't wear out the additive package for sure.
Make sure you get a oil filter that'll do those miles.
Durango
I've been using synthetic oil in my 01' Durango 4.7 since bought new and have had good results from doing the switch. Like the others have said using dino I woun'd go those miles without doing any type of UOA on it. Your much better off using a high mileage synthetic like Mobil 1 "extended" or Castrol "edge" amd going a full 10K. You know using that type of synthetic you won't wear out the additive package for sure.
Make sure you get a oil filter that'll do those miles.
Durango
Originally Posted By: SEBZX79
Hello all i just purchased a 08 Dodge durango with the newer 4.7 liter with 303 hp. I still have my 2003 Durango with the older 235hp 4.7. I have been using MC5w20 in that motor with 7-9k miles changes with out any problems. You guys think I should be ok with the newer 4.7 and the changes? I do have a stash of syntetic for wifes MB as well that I can use instead of MC.
If you have any concerns about warranty then I would not run your OCI that long. Max allowed is 6 months or 6K while under warranty. If warranty is not an issue for you then you could go as long as you are comfortable going. IMO 7K is about as far as I would take MC( blend variety ). Full synthetic to 10K would be ok. Any longer and a used oil analysis would be called for IMO.
Page 392 Owner's Manual: "NOTE: Under no circumstances should oil change intervals exceed 6,000 miles (10 000 km) or 6 months whichever comes first."
Hello all i just purchased a 08 Dodge durango with the newer 4.7 liter with 303 hp. I still have my 2003 Durango with the older 235hp 4.7. I have been using MC5w20 in that motor with 7-9k miles changes with out any problems. You guys think I should be ok with the newer 4.7 and the changes? I do have a stash of syntetic for wifes MB as well that I can use instead of MC.
If you have any concerns about warranty then I would not run your OCI that long. Max allowed is 6 months or 6K while under warranty. If warranty is not an issue for you then you could go as long as you are comfortable going. IMO 7K is about as far as I would take MC( blend variety ). Full synthetic to 10K would be ok. Any longer and a used oil analysis would be called for IMO.
Page 392 Owner's Manual: "NOTE: Under no circumstances should oil change intervals exceed 6,000 miles (10 000 km) or 6 months whichever comes first."
Any perticular reason why? I am sure their 6k mile max is based on bulk dino from the dealer. I am not worried about the warrenty coverage just trying to get the best oil to do the job.
If it was your vehicle what oil and interval would you use?
I will take the avg of the answers and use that...
If it was your vehicle what oil and interval would you use?
I will take the avg of the answers and use that...
Originally Posted By: Durango
SEBZX79,
I've been using synthetic oil in my 01' Durango 4.7 since bought new and have had good results from doing the switch. Like the others have said using dino I woun'd go those miles without doing any type of UOA on it. Your much better off using a high mileage synthetic like Mobil 1 "extended" or Castrol "edge" amd going a full 10K. You know using that type of synthetic you won't wear out the additive package for sure.
Make sure you get a oil filter that'll do those miles.
Durango
What kind of avg milage you are seeing from your 4.7? I am at 13.1
SEBZX79,
I've been using synthetic oil in my 01' Durango 4.7 since bought new and have had good results from doing the switch. Like the others have said using dino I woun'd go those miles without doing any type of UOA on it. Your much better off using a high mileage synthetic like Mobil 1 "extended" or Castrol "edge" amd going a full 10K. You know using that type of synthetic you won't wear out the additive package for sure.
Make sure you get a oil filter that'll do those miles.
Durango
What kind of avg milage you are seeing from your 4.7? I am at 13.1
Originally Posted By: SEBZX79
Originally Posted By: Durango
SEBZX79,
I've been using synthetic oil in my 01' Durango 4.7 since bought new and have had good results from doing the switch. Like the others have said using dino I woun'd go those miles without doing any type of UOA on it. Your much better off using a high mileage synthetic like Mobil 1 "extended" or Castrol "edge" amd going a full 10K. You know using that type of synthetic you won't wear out the additive package for sure.
Make sure you get a oil filter that'll do those miles.
Durango
What kind of avg milage you are seeing from your 4.7? I am at 13.1
13.1?!?!?!?!?!?!? I am getting 18 mixed and 22 highway as long as I am 70mph or less--add hills and it is in the low 18's city is 16 or better.. with the new 4.7, sludge hasn't been a problem but my buddy had a first gen durango with the 4.7 that had the pan cleaned out several times before it seized----looked like black asphalt..
Originally Posted By: Durango
SEBZX79,
I've been using synthetic oil in my 01' Durango 4.7 since bought new and have had good results from doing the switch. Like the others have said using dino I woun'd go those miles without doing any type of UOA on it. Your much better off using a high mileage synthetic like Mobil 1 "extended" or Castrol "edge" amd going a full 10K. You know using that type of synthetic you won't wear out the additive package for sure.
Make sure you get a oil filter that'll do those miles.
Durango
What kind of avg milage you are seeing from your 4.7? I am at 13.1
13.1?!?!?!?!?!?!? I am getting 18 mixed and 22 highway as long as I am 70mph or less--add hills and it is in the low 18's city is 16 or better.. with the new 4.7, sludge hasn't been a problem but my buddy had a first gen durango with the 4.7 that had the pan cleaned out several times before it seized----looked like black asphalt..
yup 13.1 (on my 2003) but my is the awd one so i cant turn off the front wheels. its been like this for 80k plus miles so i dont think anything is wrong with it and and never had any issues and the truck runs great i think one of the best engines chrysler has ever made with the internals being spotless. The 2008 has 34k miles and I dont know what the milage will be but it is awd as well. I am hoping for a little better milage.
I wouldn't worry too much about the warranty concern, Chysler isn't real big on voiding warranties due to maintenance like some manufacturers, last week I had had the heads off of a caravan that I'd swear hadn't ever had an oil change, was full of sludge, pulled the timing cover, and oil pan, threw everything in the parts washer for a couple hours, put a new timing chain on it, threw it back together, things like that are pretty routine, we never even question maintenance history for warranty.
But, back to your question, if it works well in the 01 with no issues it'll work in the 08, there's not really that much difference between the engines. The 01 is a JTEC engine while the 08 is an NGC engine, and the new 4.7's have 16 spark plugs but that's about it for major differences. A used oil analysis wouldn't be a bad move though.
But, back to your question, if it works well in the 01 with no issues it'll work in the 08, there's not really that much difference between the engines. The 01 is a JTEC engine while the 08 is an NGC engine, and the new 4.7's have 16 spark plugs but that's about it for major differences. A used oil analysis wouldn't be a bad move though.
Originally Posted By: Jss21382
I wouldn't worry too much about the warranty concern, Chysler isn't real big on voiding warranties due to maintenance like some manufacturers, last week I had had the heads off of a caravan that I'd swear hadn't ever had an oil change, was full of sludge, pulled the timing cover, and oil pan, threw everything in the parts washer for a couple hours, put a new timing chain on it, threw it back together, things like that are pretty routine, we never even question maintenance history for warranty.
But, back to your question, if it works well in the 01 with no issues it'll work in the 08, there's not really that much difference between the engines. The 01 is a JTEC engine while the 08 is an NGC engine, and the new 4.7's have 16 spark plugs but that's about it for major differences. A used oil analysis wouldn't be a bad move though.
Cool I will not worry about the warranty. I dont plan on having any issues with the new truck. Do you guys still see that sludge under the filler cap ( the condinsation issue) on the 08 on? Thats one thing I never liked always taking it off and cleaning. So would you push it to 10k with any good synthetic 5w20?
I wouldn't worry too much about the warranty concern, Chysler isn't real big on voiding warranties due to maintenance like some manufacturers, last week I had had the heads off of a caravan that I'd swear hadn't ever had an oil change, was full of sludge, pulled the timing cover, and oil pan, threw everything in the parts washer for a couple hours, put a new timing chain on it, threw it back together, things like that are pretty routine, we never even question maintenance history for warranty.
But, back to your question, if it works well in the 01 with no issues it'll work in the 08, there's not really that much difference between the engines. The 01 is a JTEC engine while the 08 is an NGC engine, and the new 4.7's have 16 spark plugs but that's about it for major differences. A used oil analysis wouldn't be a bad move though.
Cool I will not worry about the warranty. I dont plan on having any issues with the new truck. Do you guys still see that sludge under the filler cap ( the condinsation issue) on the 08 on? Thats one thing I never liked always taking it off and cleaning. So would you push it to 10k with any good synthetic 5w20?
Originally Posted By: SEBZX79
Any perticular reason why? I am sure their 6k mile max is based on bulk dino from the dealer. I am not worried about the warrenty coverage just trying to get the best oil to do the job.
If it was your vehicle what oil and interval would you use?
I will take the avg of the answers and use that...
If you are not worried about warranty than pick a good synthetic and filter and go to 10K. Although it has already been discussed I would still be leary of the infamous 4.7L sludge issues until I was SURE Chrysler had solved it. Hopefully one of the changes made for the new 4.7L starting in 08 was a change to the PCV system that was at the heart of the sludge problems?
I have run Royal Purple oil in just about everything( new & used )since 1990 +/-. That includes 6 new Dodge Rams. Even my current 08 1500 HEMI Quad Cab. Ran it in my 03 1500 4.7L Ram as well and it did great. If you have no warranty concerns( it is only API SL )it is a very good choice and would be my top recommendation to you. I would run a Royal Purple oil filter with it as well( #20-820 )and it would be good to go for 10K. Should be good for even longer( another 3-5K )in a healthy engine that is not abused. I would run a used oil analysis at 10K just to verify everything is ok however at least the first time or 2 you do it to make sure your engine is not overly hard on oil. I would do that with any oil I planned to take over 10K.
If RP is too $$$ for you or just not your cup of tea so to speak( that is cool )I would use one of the following oils and filters listed in order of my personal preference( all are 5W-20 )...
NOTE - If $$$ is not an issue but you just don't like RP then Redline would be my top alternative option followed by Schaeffers 9000 series. Both are EXCELLENT oils but cost a bit more and are harder to get. I would run a RP oil filter with these as well. Otherwise the list below uses name brand, more affordable, oil & filter options.
OIL:
1 - Kendall GT1 Full Synthetic( now w/ Liquid Titanium ). Has become a real favorite of mine. Good performer for decent cost( $4.99 p/qt @ PepBoys ).
2 - Pennzoil Platinum
3 - Valvoline Synpower
4 - Quaker State Ultimate Durability/HP
5 - Schaeffers 7000 Series Blend
FILTERS:
1 - K&N( up to 10K )
2 - Mobil 1( up to 10K )
3A - Purolator PureOne( up to 10K )
3B - Purolator( up to 7500 )
4 - Wix/Napa Gold( up to 7500 )
5 - MOPAR( up to 5K )
Any perticular reason why? I am sure their 6k mile max is based on bulk dino from the dealer. I am not worried about the warrenty coverage just trying to get the best oil to do the job.
If it was your vehicle what oil and interval would you use?
I will take the avg of the answers and use that...
If you are not worried about warranty than pick a good synthetic and filter and go to 10K. Although it has already been discussed I would still be leary of the infamous 4.7L sludge issues until I was SURE Chrysler had solved it. Hopefully one of the changes made for the new 4.7L starting in 08 was a change to the PCV system that was at the heart of the sludge problems?
I have run Royal Purple oil in just about everything( new & used )since 1990 +/-. That includes 6 new Dodge Rams. Even my current 08 1500 HEMI Quad Cab. Ran it in my 03 1500 4.7L Ram as well and it did great. If you have no warranty concerns( it is only API SL )it is a very good choice and would be my top recommendation to you. I would run a Royal Purple oil filter with it as well( #20-820 )and it would be good to go for 10K. Should be good for even longer( another 3-5K )in a healthy engine that is not abused. I would run a used oil analysis at 10K just to verify everything is ok however at least the first time or 2 you do it to make sure your engine is not overly hard on oil. I would do that with any oil I planned to take over 10K.
If RP is too $$$ for you or just not your cup of tea so to speak( that is cool )I would use one of the following oils and filters listed in order of my personal preference( all are 5W-20 )...
NOTE - If $$$ is not an issue but you just don't like RP then Redline would be my top alternative option followed by Schaeffers 9000 series. Both are EXCELLENT oils but cost a bit more and are harder to get. I would run a RP oil filter with these as well. Otherwise the list below uses name brand, more affordable, oil & filter options.
OIL:
1 - Kendall GT1 Full Synthetic( now w/ Liquid Titanium ). Has become a real favorite of mine. Good performer for decent cost( $4.99 p/qt @ PepBoys ).
2 - Pennzoil Platinum
3 - Valvoline Synpower
4 - Quaker State Ultimate Durability/HP
5 - Schaeffers 7000 Series Blend
FILTERS:
1 - K&N( up to 10K )
2 - Mobil 1( up to 10K )
3A - Purolator PureOne( up to 10K )
3B - Purolator( up to 7500 )
4 - Wix/Napa Gold( up to 7500 )
5 - MOPAR( up to 5K )
No love for M1 or synpower?
I was thinking about Valvoline Synthetic 3k run first and then move to 5k then 7k and then 10k with a used oil analysis. I got some Valvoline and Castrol Syntec at AAP sale before new years so I will stick with that for a little while.
I was thinking about Valvoline Synthetic 3k run first and then move to 5k then 7k and then 10k with a used oil analysis. I got some Valvoline and Castrol Syntec at AAP sale before new years so I will stick with that for a little while.
Originally Posted By: SEBZX79
Cool I will not worry about the warranty. I dont plan on having any issues with the new truck. Do you guys still see that sludge under the filler cap ( the condinsation issue) on the 08 on? Thats one thing I never liked always taking it off and cleaning. So would you push it to 10k with any good synthetic 5w20?
There is still some condensation in the filler tube, but if you pull the valve covers they're pretty clean as long as the oil has been changed reasonably often, the goo/slime/yellow is just a side effect of how the pcv system was routed right through the filler tube. Most engines have that yellow goo near the location of the pvc air intake, but usually it's hidden from view so no one notices. Instead, on the 4.7 it's visible and your average quick lube tech freaks out and claims they have a leaking head gasket...we see that at least a few times a month, it's a pain trying to explain that there's nothing wrong with the truck, contrary to what the kid at the local quick lube said.
Since you were going 7-9k in what's essentially the same engine using MC I wouldn't hesitate to go 10k with a full synthetic, I'd suggest a used oil analysis every now and again just to be safe.
Cool I will not worry about the warranty. I dont plan on having any issues with the new truck. Do you guys still see that sludge under the filler cap ( the condinsation issue) on the 08 on? Thats one thing I never liked always taking it off and cleaning. So would you push it to 10k with any good synthetic 5w20?
There is still some condensation in the filler tube, but if you pull the valve covers they're pretty clean as long as the oil has been changed reasonably often, the goo/slime/yellow is just a side effect of how the pcv system was routed right through the filler tube. Most engines have that yellow goo near the location of the pvc air intake, but usually it's hidden from view so no one notices. Instead, on the 4.7 it's visible and your average quick lube tech freaks out and claims they have a leaking head gasket...we see that at least a few times a month, it's a pain trying to explain that there's nothing wrong with the truck, contrary to what the kid at the local quick lube said.
Since you were going 7-9k in what's essentially the same engine using MC I wouldn't hesitate to go 10k with a full synthetic, I'd suggest a used oil analysis every now and again just to be safe.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: SEBZX79
No love for M1 or synpower?
I was thinking about Valvoline Synthetic 3k run first and then move to 5k then 7k and then 10k with a used oil analysis. I got some Valvoline and Castrol Syntec at AAP sale before new years so I will stick with that for a little while.
certain grades of M1 and Syntec tend to be favored while the other grades not so much
No love for M1 or synpower?
I was thinking about Valvoline Synthetic 3k run first and then move to 5k then 7k and then 10k with a used oil analysis. I got some Valvoline and Castrol Syntec at AAP sale before new years so I will stick with that for a little while.
certain grades of M1 and Syntec tend to be favored while the other grades not so much
Was the 03 to 06 model required to use 5w30? If you are using 5w-20 with good result then don't fix what is not broken. I have a 06 newer body style with the older version 4.7. Manual requires 5w30. It is AWD with the option to go to 4 lock mode. My interstate mileage has been as high as 21 mpg. That is staying at 65 mph in MD and VA. Around town mileage drops to 13 to 14 at best. Has been a very reliable vehicle at 47,000 miles. My only complaint is some of the poor interior quality panels that cover the seat belt area. Has Chrysler allowed use of 5w-20 in older vehicles like ford did?
Originally Posted By: SEBZX79
No love for Mobil 1 or synpower?
I was thinking about Valvoline Synthetic 3k run first and then move to 5k then 7k and then 10k with a used oil analysis. I got some Valvoline and Castrol Syntec at AAP sale before new years so I will stick with that for a little while.
Valvoline Synpower is #3 on my list of name brand affordable synthetics.
No, I have no love, or use, for anything ExxonMobil related other than the oil filters and even then I would pick other filters. If you like Mobil 1 oils go for it.
No love for Mobil 1 or synpower?
I was thinking about Valvoline Synthetic 3k run first and then move to 5k then 7k and then 10k with a used oil analysis. I got some Valvoline and Castrol Syntec at AAP sale before new years so I will stick with that for a little while.
Valvoline Synpower is #3 on my list of name brand affordable synthetics.
No, I have no love, or use, for anything ExxonMobil related other than the oil filters and even then I would pick other filters. If you like Mobil 1 oils go for it.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: SEBZX79
Originally Posted By: Durango
SEBZX79,
I've been using synthetic oil in my 01' Durango 4.7 since bought new and have had good results from doing the switch. Like the others have said using dino I woun'd go those miles without doing any type of UOA on it. Your much better off using a high mileage synthetic like Mobil 1 "extended" or Castrol "edge" amd going a full 10K. You know using that type of synthetic you won't wear out the additive package for sure.
Make sure you get a oil filter that'll do those miles.
Durango
What kind of avg milage you are seeing from your 4.7? I am at 13.1
SEBZX79,
My mileage varies sometimes. My best MPG was achieved going from Los Angeles to Arizona using my overhead computer it indicated 21.3 MPG!!!!!
Yesterday I took it for a nice spin on the freeway for about a couple hours and using the same thing it indicated 20.1 MPG.
You should be able to do better with yours. Just check the tires for peoper tire pressure and make sure the air filter is reasonaly clean. Tank it up good and do what I did and don't go over 60-65MPH.
Durango
Originally Posted By: Durango
SEBZX79,
I've been using synthetic oil in my 01' Durango 4.7 since bought new and have had good results from doing the switch. Like the others have said using dino I woun'd go those miles without doing any type of UOA on it. Your much better off using a high mileage synthetic like Mobil 1 "extended" or Castrol "edge" amd going a full 10K. You know using that type of synthetic you won't wear out the additive package for sure.
Make sure you get a oil filter that'll do those miles.
Durango
What kind of avg milage you are seeing from your 4.7? I am at 13.1
SEBZX79,
My mileage varies sometimes. My best MPG was achieved going from Los Angeles to Arizona using my overhead computer it indicated 21.3 MPG!!!!!
Yesterday I took it for a nice spin on the freeway for about a couple hours and using the same thing it indicated 20.1 MPG.
You should be able to do better with yours. Just check the tires for peoper tire pressure and make sure the air filter is reasonaly clean. Tank it up good and do what I did and don't go over 60-65MPH.
Durango
Originally Posted By: RedOak
Was the 03 to 06 model required to use 5w30? If you are using 5w-20 with good result then don't fix what is not broken. I have a 06 newer body style with the older version 4.7. Manual requires 5w30. It is AWD with the option to go to 4 lock mode. My interstate mileage has been as high as 21 mpg. That is staying at 65 mph in MD and VA. Around town mileage drops to 13 to 14 at best. Has been a very reliable vehicle at 47,000 miles. My only complaint is some of the poor interior quality panels that cover the seat belt area. Has Chrysler allowed use of 5w-20 in older vehicles like ford did?
Yes the Older 03-06 required 5w30 but I figured I would give it a shot just like I did with the Cirrus v6(2.5l) was running 5w20 in that for over 100k miles with 10k mile changes. When we took the valve cover off it was spotless. The 4.7 responded very well to 5w20 over the last 40 or so k miles. It was 16 degrees this morning and the motor started like it was 80 with out any noises. The durango has been very reliable so far this is why I bought the 08 with the 4.7 which has a little more hp which should help with some of the towing that I do. This was the only complain I had if I had two atvs on a trailer driving it would hunt for gears at higher speeds because of lock of torgue. I am hoping with this new 4.7 that will be eliminated. Also interior plastics are disapointing to say the least on the old durango. The new one is 100 times better...
Was the 03 to 06 model required to use 5w30? If you are using 5w-20 with good result then don't fix what is not broken. I have a 06 newer body style with the older version 4.7. Manual requires 5w30. It is AWD with the option to go to 4 lock mode. My interstate mileage has been as high as 21 mpg. That is staying at 65 mph in MD and VA. Around town mileage drops to 13 to 14 at best. Has been a very reliable vehicle at 47,000 miles. My only complaint is some of the poor interior quality panels that cover the seat belt area. Has Chrysler allowed use of 5w-20 in older vehicles like ford did?
Yes the Older 03-06 required 5w30 but I figured I would give it a shot just like I did with the Cirrus v6(2.5l) was running 5w20 in that for over 100k miles with 10k mile changes. When we took the valve cover off it was spotless. The 4.7 responded very well to 5w20 over the last 40 or so k miles. It was 16 degrees this morning and the motor started like it was 80 with out any noises. The durango has been very reliable so far this is why I bought the 08 with the 4.7 which has a little more hp which should help with some of the towing that I do. This was the only complain I had if I had two atvs on a trailer driving it would hunt for gears at higher speeds because of lock of torgue. I am hoping with this new 4.7 that will be eliminated. Also interior plastics are disapointing to say the least on the old durango. The new one is 100 times better...
Originally Posted By: SEBZX79
No love for M1 or synpower?
I was thinking about Valvoline Synthetic 3k run first and then move to 5k then 7k and then 10k with a used oil analysis. I got some Valvoline and Castrol Syntec at AAP sale before new years so I will stick with that for a little while.
SEBZX79,
If you want to use Valvoline/Castrol "synthetic" I see no reason why you couldn't. It's a good synthetic although I'm a fan of M1 myself. If 10K OCI's are on your mind I'd split the difference and do the OCI's every 5K instead. Just make sure you have a filter that'll go the distance. Most if not all standard OEM filters will handle that just fine for you.
Regarding your MPG if you have an AWD version then you might be getting the best mileage possible since you have a heavier SUV compared to my 2WD.
Durango
No love for M1 or synpower?
I was thinking about Valvoline Synthetic 3k run first and then move to 5k then 7k and then 10k with a used oil analysis. I got some Valvoline and Castrol Syntec at AAP sale before new years so I will stick with that for a little while.
SEBZX79,
If you want to use Valvoline/Castrol "synthetic" I see no reason why you couldn't. It's a good synthetic although I'm a fan of M1 myself. If 10K OCI's are on your mind I'd split the difference and do the OCI's every 5K instead. Just make sure you have a filter that'll go the distance. Most if not all standard OEM filters will handle that just fine for you.
Regarding your MPG if you have an AWD version then you might be getting the best mileage possible since you have a heavier SUV compared to my 2WD.
Durango
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