Fuel pressure leak down? might be able to test this by turning the key on a few times for like 2 seconds a time to repeatedly prime the fuel pressure, then try cranking. This works if it runs the pump for a second every time the key is switched to ”on”
2006 Pontiac vibe 1.8 1zze auto help!
- Thread starter Bry1234
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My bad Bry1234, I didn't read your initial post thoroughly. Came home from my teaching job utterly drained, brain fried lol. I cured an extended crank before starting issue on my 2008 Pontiac Grand Prix by cleaning out it's intake manifold and throttle body. What a difference that made. Worth looking in there with a good flashlight to check if its got crud build up.
Throttle is cleaned and I believe in this vehicle pump only primes when engine is cranking not in the on position. I did confirm there was pretty of pressure so there is no leak down. I’m leaning towards a old tsb that was never checked and still can’t rule out the fuel pump at this point
Ignition coils. Measure the resistances on one of them.
In my experience, the color of the lead on the multimeter matters. Red on the bottom, black on the top pins. The bottom of the coil-on-plug has a removable boot.
Don't use a Harbor Freight or similar Chinese multimeter. Use a Klein(or Fluke, but Flukes are expensive and not materially better).
For a new Denso ignition coil I bought, there were four pins.
Leftmost - 30 megaohms
2nd leftmost - 30 mega ohms
middle right- no reading(actually means extremely high resistance)
far right pin - about 4.8 megaohms.
The old coils had these measurements:
4.68 megaohms for the two left pins
18 megaohms for the middle right
4.8 megaohms for the far right pin.
It was taking 5 turns to start cold or hot on a Toyota Matrix 2007 I'm dealing with.
Then the other part to throw at is the fuel pump and fuel filter.
In my experience, the color of the lead on the multimeter matters. Red on the bottom, black on the top pins. The bottom of the coil-on-plug has a removable boot.
Don't use a Harbor Freight or similar Chinese multimeter. Use a Klein(or Fluke, but Flukes are expensive and not materially better).
For a new Denso ignition coil I bought, there were four pins.
Leftmost - 30 megaohms
2nd leftmost - 30 mega ohms
middle right- no reading(actually means extremely high resistance)
far right pin - about 4.8 megaohms.
The old coils had these measurements:
4.68 megaohms for the two left pins
18 megaohms for the middle right
4.8 megaohms for the far right pin.
It was taking 5 turns to start cold or hot on a Toyota Matrix 2007 I'm dealing with.
Then the other part to throw at is the fuel pump and fuel filter.
Actually, no.
The 2007Toyota Matrix I'm dealing with(almost the same thing as a Pontiac Vibe) did not have any codes I can say it directly caused by the coils themselves.
It did throw a P0171 when I was revving the engine hard, but that could have been the injectors, which simultaneously wore with the coils. Had I not driven "angry", no code would have even been thrown, although fuel trims did show a lean condition even after the P0171 cleared itself.
The injectors and/or coils might have been already worn 100k and 10 years before this check engine light. Every time I disconnected the battery, the car's default computer mix for fuel and air would cause it to stall itself out for the first couple of starts. Given the age of your is similar to the one I'm dealing with, would it be fair to presume that has happened to your vehicle?
I replaced the injectors first, and I did notice some slight improvement, but nowhere near the "insta-crank" of a new vehicle. I did not touch the coils at first.
I also had only one Denso 673-1300 coil. I removed one of the old coils and installed this one(the same one I took readings on). Cranking improved noticeably to only three turns or less, and that's just one new coil. If I replace the other coils, I think I can get back to an "insta-start" as if the car was back on the dealership lot.
It’s apples to crab apples but my Lawn Boy mower would start great when cold but if I stalled it then it was almost impossible to start until it cooled down. Replacing the coil fixed it.
Injectors are pretty expensive, so if you have a multimeter, you can first check for resistance both cold and hot.
My car has trouble starting when the engine is hot, I nev...
Q: I thought it was the battery but I changed it and I'm still having the same problem. I'm not sure what it could be that is being affected from the hot engine. Hi there. It sounds like the ignition coils are getting hot...
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Corollas(the Vibe is a Matrix, which is a Corolla, with a GM AC system) are fairly rudimentary machines compared to other cars. The fuel and ignition systems are pretty isolated from other systems.
Could be that the heat is causing the coils to enter the "failing" state.
Can an ignition coil quit when it gets hot?
66 c10 with a 250ci and bone stock quit on me the other day after about 20 miles, just like somebody shut the key off as it was going down the road....
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car wont start after it is warm - Third Generation F-Body Message Boards
Tech / General Engine - car wont start after it is warm - Hello everyone I have a 1991 z28 305. I changed the plugs wires coil pack and Distribitor. I timed it it will fire right up and runs nice. When hot Itturn it off and can fire It right back up. If I wait 5 minsthe car will not start till...
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Also, Toyota "designed" multiple things in the fuel/air part of the 1ZZ-FE cars to fail lean latently, thus putting a degree of stress on the ignition coils over time, culminating in a designed "failure" at around 200k and 15-20 years. One is the original intake manifold gasket, which creates a vacuum leak. If you get that corrected with a "corrected" intake manifold gasket, the other things that could still created a lean condition is worn out fuel injectors and possibly a stuck open PCV valve. The average customer isn't going to have the knowledge to fix these things themselves, and even mechanics or amateur wrenchers coming from other vehicles won't think about ignition coils first.
I checked a forum where he tested the stock secondary windings off a vibe which were good so I’m assuming my reading is translated 5700 ohms for the old ones and 30000 ohms for the new one. The guy that tested his old working ones were 24000 ohms.
For clarity, this issue you are having……..is it something that has been happening since taking ownership of the vehicle or is it something that recently presented itself?
Thanks.
edit: Disregard. Post #8 answers question.
Thanks.
edit: Disregard. Post #8 answers question.
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This is 100 percent true.
my suggestion- Toyota nation forum, reg , you choose right section and you describe the problem with the begging or better find Toyota’s specialist in your town, we are missing smth. They can run proper diagnostics and find the problem. The engine is well known, it’s not new.
You can save time and money replacing working parts. For me cleaning throttle body, I did a few times, has not effects on the car for exemple. I’ m
Still support that is dying knok sensor or bad starter , alternator. Or time for full capital work in entire engine.
I have experience 10 years with that engine.
You can save time and money replacing working parts. For me cleaning throttle body, I did a few times, has not effects on the car for exemple. I’ m
Still support that is dying knok sensor or bad starter , alternator. Or time for full capital work in entire engine.
I have experience 10 years with that engine.
Vibe and Corolla 8 gen are identical, talking about engines. Just to mention.
Thanks for the feedback.
when having extended crank issues any time need to check fuel pressure mechanically with a gauge in line and stop throwing parts at it and guessing
I may have missed it but did you ever try with just a small amount of throttle? Full throttle probably activates clear flood mode so it wouldn't start anyway....if it was an idle air control valve then cracking the throttle open would start it up.
Worth a try although it's weird for an iac issue to only present after sitting a specific amount of time.
Worth a try although it's weird for an iac issue to only present after sitting a specific amount of time.
