2006 Honda Accord EX V6 excessive brake dust on one wheel.

[t1snwrbrdr12]

Not uncommon for that generation to need rear calipers from time to time. I think I needed 2 sets in my 150k miles of ownership of mine (bought with 100k on it). Also needed a parking brake cable once.

You'll have to diagnose if it’s a brake cable binding or the caliper itself then make the repair. Neither is difficult.

 

[mosaud1998]

Not uncommon for that generation to need rear calipers from time to time. I think I needed 2 sets in my 150k miles of ownership of mine (bought with 100k on it). Also needed a parking brake cable once.

You'll have to diagnose if it’s a brake cable binding or the caliper itself then make the repair. Neither is difficult.

We shall see if it's the caliper sticking today. Ordered a IR temperature gun last night. That should be here today. But, lll physical check the temperature of both rear wheels after I drive to work to see if I notice a temperature difference

 

[mosaud1998]

Not uncommon for that generation to need rear calipers from time to time. I think I needed 2 sets in my 150k miles of ownership of mine (bought with 100k on it). Also needed a parking brake cable once.

You'll have to diagnose if it’s a brake cable binding or the caliper itself then make the repair. Neither is difficult.

Caliper seems like an easy replacement. But this is a midwestern car. So, I highly doubt it'll be easy to remove the bolts

 

[t1snwrbrdr12]

We shall see if it's the caliper sticking today. Ordered a IR temperature gun last night. That should be here today. But, lll physical check the temperature of both rear wheels after I drive to work to see if I notice a temperature difference

Your brake will get hot if the caliper is sticking, just be sure it’s not due to the brake cable sticking before just throwing a caliper or calipers at it or you’ll have the same issue.

 

[slo town]

We shall see if it's the caliper sticking today. Ordered a IR temperature gun last night. That should be here today. But, lll physical check the temperature of both rear wheels after I drive to work to see if I notice a temperature difference

Point the IR gun at the pad sweep area on the rotor.

Scott

 

[mosaud1998]

Your brake will get hot if the caliper is sticking, just be sure it’s not due to the brake cable sticking before just throwing a caliper or calipers at it or you’ll have the same issue.

Parking brake cable?

 

[mosaud1998]

I got to work. I felt the right side brake disc, which felt hotter than the left side brake disc. Also looks like the right side disc is messed up
compared to the left side. No lip on either rotor. I think the brakes where done not too long ago.

 

[slo town]

From the looks of the corrosion on those rotors and left side suspension bits I wouldn't spend much time or effort trying to fix it. So long as the brakes work well and there's enough pad left, just drive the thing.

You didn't waste money on the IR gun. They come in handy at times.

Scott

 

[KrisZ]

I got to work. I felt the right side brake disc, which felt hotter than the left side brake disc. Also looks like the right side disc is messed up
compared to the left side. No lip on either rotor. I think the brakes where done not too long ago.
View attachment 250400 View attachment 250399

The car likely sat for a while before you bought it and rust accumulated on the rotors. Couple this with a poor brake job and the brakes don't work evenly.
If you are able to DIY, you could clean up the rotors with some 80-100 grit sandpaper, re-lube the pins and clean up the brackets. I've done it many times with success. Otherwise you will need new rotors and pads because this kind of rust will not really be worn away by the pads alone and will cause vibration.

 

[mosaud1998]

From the looks of the corrosion on those rotors and left side suspension bits I wouldn't spend much time or effort trying to fix it. So long as the brakes work well and there's enough pad left, just drive the thing.

You didn't waste money on the IR gun. They come in handy at times.

Scott

So, I am assuming that means the caliper isn't frozen? Might just have all that brake dust on that one wheel because of the corrosion on the rotor.

 

[mosaud1998]

The car likely sat for a while before you bought it and rust accumulated on the rotors. Couple this with a poor brake job and the brakes don't work evenly.
If you are able to DIY, you could clean up the rotors with some 80-100 grit sandpaper, re-lube the pins and clean up the brackets. I've done it many times with success. Otherwise you will need new rotors and pads because this kind of rust will not really be worn away by the pads alone and will cause vibration.

Not sure how long the car sat. But, I think I'll take the right side wheel off, clean the brake rotor with brake cleaner and some sandpaper, clean the caliper up, re-grease the pins, clean the wheel up, and see if the wheel gets caked up with brake dust again.

 

[KrisZ]

So, I am assuming that means the caliper isn't frozen? Might just have all that brake dust on that one wheel because of the corrosion on the rotor.

No, if one wheel is hotter than the other, that means something is wrong on the caliper side. Rust on the rotor has nothing to do with the difference in temps.

 

[slo town]

So, I am assuming that means the caliper isn't frozen? Might just have all that brake dust on that one wheel because of the corrosion on the rotor.

If the caliper was frozen you either have no brakes or a smoking hot brake.

Do this. Jack up each side. Firmly press on the brake pedal with the engine running so you have vacuum assist. Release the brake, get out of the car and check to see if the wheel/tire rotates freely.

Scott

 

[KrisZ]

Not sure how long the car sat. But, I think I'll take the right side wheel off, clean the brake rotor with brake cleaner and some sandpaper, clean the caliper up, re-grease the pins, clean the wheel up, and see if the wheel gets caked up with brake dust again.

From my experience that will not work. You need to take the rotor off and clean up the backside of the rotor. And from your pics, the left side is not much better, so that rotor should be cleaned up as well IMO.

 

[mosaud1998]

If the caliper was frozen you either have no brakes or a smoking hot brake.

Do this. Jack up each side. Firmly press on the brake pedal with the engine running so you have vacuum assist. Release the brake, get out of the car and check to see if the wheel/tire rotates freely.

Scott

Yeah, that's what I was thinking. If the caliper was stuck or frozen, the rotor would be hot to the point where I wouldn't be able to put my finger on it at all. My brother-in-law has a BMW M3. The caliper on his M3 froze and he could smell the pads heating up and saw smoke.

I'll probably jack the car up on each side on my day off (Friday) and clean up both rotors. Probably re-grease the guide pins too while I am at it.

 

[mosaud1998]

all 4 pads and rotors where replaced at 104k miles. If that matters. So, about 20k miles ago.

 

[mosaud1998]

Update: put the car on a lift and rolled both wheels. I started the car and depressed the brake petal then released it. The same amount of friction on both rear wheels. I do apply the parking brake when I park (just a habit). I'll stop applying that and see if it makes a difference.