+1 on the tensioner , and sign me up for a water pump!
my2c
jorge
my2c
jorge
2005 Kia Spectra timing belt -- how urgent?
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Thanks, I'll make sure to suggest they do the tensioner and idlers. I think my dad talked to a dealer who suggested that the water pump probably didn't need to be changed on this engine at this interval but I may be making that up.
Originally Posted By: daves87rs
Originally Posted By: IndyIan
I wouldn't feel bad about driving the car for a few weeks more, especially if the miles were done on the highway.
Agreed. A few weeks should not hurt.
i would say you've prob got a safety gap of 10,000 miles. no need to stop driving tomorrow.
myself, i would change it.
Originally Posted By: IndyIan
I wouldn't feel bad about driving the car for a few weeks more, especially if the miles were done on the highway.
Agreed. A few weeks should not hurt.
i would say you've prob got a safety gap of 10,000 miles. no need to stop driving tomorrow.
myself, i would change it.
Out of all the Timing Belts I have done with my dad, I would say that DOHC engines are the worst and should be changed as closely to the manuals requirements as possible.
Most Hondas, Hyundai/Kia belts we have done come off looking like brand new at the 100K mark. We have even done a Hyundai with 300K KM (180K miles) that was in relatively good shape considering the owner forgot about the belt and it didn't snap.
I wouldn't recommend this but to give you some breathing space I wouldn't worry about it too much, but I would get it done as soon as possible. No need to stop driving.
Most Hondas, Hyundai/Kia belts we have done come off looking like brand new at the 100K mark. We have even done a Hyundai with 300K KM (180K miles) that was in relatively good shape considering the owner forgot about the belt and it didn't snap.
I wouldn't recommend this but to give you some breathing space I wouldn't worry about it too much, but I would get it done as soon as possible. No need to stop driving.
I don't buy that check the timing belt for cracks. I recently changed one on a Honda, that had 100K miles on it. It looked brand new when I removed it, I could bend it every which way to try to expose a crack, and non could be found.
BUT, it did stretch over the years. It wasn't nearly as tight as the new one that was installed.
Which makes me think that if they stretch too much, it could possibly jump a tooth, which obviously wouldn't be good.
BUT, it did stretch over the years. It wasn't nearly as tight as the new one that was installed.
Which makes me think that if they stretch too much, it could possibly jump a tooth, which obviously wouldn't be good.
My daughters 2005 Altima has a timing chain as does my 2001 Jeep Cherokee. I would not mind if the timing belt job was $250, but on my Camry its more like $600 or $700. Water pump, and on 2nd change tensioners.
But the current use of timing chains is not like the old V8 GM 5.7L engine, where it was a plain loop from crank to cam, now they wrap the timing chain all over the place and now they break also.
But the current use of timing chains is not like the old V8 GM 5.7L engine, where it was a plain loop from crank to cam, now they wrap the timing chain all over the place and now they break also.
I am seeing a lot of hyundais and kias for sale with busted belts/ busted motors with 85-90k. I'd get it taken care of next paycheck.
Belts aren't all bad; you only need two or three oil seals instead of a huge oil holding gasket around the timing cover area.
Belts aren't all bad; you only need two or three oil seals instead of a huge oil holding gasket around the timing cover area.
I don't think modern belts stretch, they seat in and compress and wear the teeth.
Maintence says change belt at 60,000 miles cost about $300.00
Don't change it and belt breaks, trashes engine, cost $3000.00
Your car, your money, just how lucky are you?
If you deside to change the belt change the idler pulley and tension springs, water pump at next change, at least thats what my mechanic told me.
Don't change it and belt breaks, trashes engine, cost $3000.00
Your car, your money, just how lucky are you?
If you deside to change the belt change the idler pulley and tension springs, water pump at next change, at least thats what my mechanic told me.
Originally Posted By: jcwit
Your car, your money, just how lucky are you?
If it were my car the belt would've been changed at 59k miles. I understand the math involved, but I don't have any control over this car (I don't even live close by). I was just trying to find out if there was any anecdotal or statistical evidence to support whether or not the recommended TB interval was conservative or not. Sounds like maybe it's not all that conservative.
Your car, your money, just how lucky are you?
If it were my car the belt would've been changed at 59k miles. I understand the math involved, but I don't have any control over this car (I don't even live close by). I was just trying to find out if there was any anecdotal or statistical evidence to support whether or not the recommended TB interval was conservative or not. Sounds like maybe it's not all that conservative.
Total cost parts and labor around $300, give or take. Dealer higher yet.
Here's a site I found that will give you an off the wall estimate, repairpal.com
Here's a site I found that will give you an off the wall estimate, repairpal.com
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Yeah like I said, she'll have it done. I'm not going to do it, I don't even live in the area. I was just trying to figure out how much I should annoy her about it until she takes it in.
I have changed many timing belts, and the old ones match up outside.
The teeth are compressed and worn, however. That is where the difference can be readily seen.
So I am not incorrect.
The teeth are compressed and worn, however. That is where the difference can be readily seen.
So I am not incorrect.
Originally Posted By: pbm
I also have wondered why some manufacturers still recommend 60K and others (like Honda) recommend 105K. My Accord has 86K on the original belt and I'm thinking of doing it next spring (when it should have approx. 95K)
There is an equation on how long a belt can last under different load and turn radius. I found it last time when someone call me shenanigan on the belt life issue (was it you pbm? I forgot).
From what I saw so far, all the engines that require 60k change cycle has the shorter belt going over only 1 cam gear on top, SOHC or DOHC with internal cam gear that turn another cam. Those with 90k-105k change cycle has the longer belt that goes over 2 cam gears on top.
The materials are the same or at least similar between them.
I also have wondered why some manufacturers still recommend 60K and others (like Honda) recommend 105K. My Accord has 86K on the original belt and I'm thinking of doing it next spring (when it should have approx. 95K)
There is an equation on how long a belt can last under different load and turn radius. I found it last time when someone call me shenanigan on the belt life issue (was it you pbm? I forgot).
From what I saw so far, all the engines that require 60k change cycle has the shorter belt going over only 1 cam gear on top, SOHC or DOHC with internal cam gear that turn another cam. Those with 90k-105k change cycle has the longer belt that goes over 2 cam gears on top.
The materials are the same or at least similar between them.
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