2005 Ford 500 Engine Issues

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Geauxtiger

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Originally Posted by KalapanaBlack
BEFORE you replace entire coils, does this happen worse when it's wet/damp outside? Ford Duratec COP systems are NOTORIOUS for cracked coil boots allowing the coil voltage to jump to the cylinder head, creating bad misfire conditions. Make sure when you're swapping coils (the boots might even come apart when trying to remove them) that much attention is paid to the coil boot condition. It might need 0 coils and 3-6 new boots to run well.
Both wet and dry. Had some stuff come up today and was unable to spend any time on the car. The supposed mechanic and his friend showed up this morning, cleared the limp mode, and was able to get the car to the local autozone ~10 mi up the road for a scan. From what I heard, there are coil issues and an O2 sensor issue. Their recommendation was to replace all 6 coils and at least the faulty O2 sensor. Then they left. Sux. Guess I will have to do this job myself, despite the lack of experience in doing this sort of thing. Good learning experience for me I guess!! Thanks for all the advice !
 
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P0351 is usually a Primary Winding problem inside the ignition coil.....I've seen Ford COP coil Secondary arc straight to ground & not set this code. An open circuit in either the Ignition Feed OR Coil Control Circuit WILL set P0351! A shorted Primary Coil/Winding will also set it!..... Visually check that the #1 COP harness connector is plugged in!
 

Geauxtiger

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Originally Posted by clinebarger
P0351 is usually a Primary Winding problem inside the ignition coil.....I've seen Ford COP coil Secondary arc straight to ground & not set this code. An open circuit in either the Ignition Feed OR Coil Control Circuit WILL set P0351! A shorted Primary Coil/Winding will also set it!..... Visually check that the #1 COP harness connector is plugged in!
I sorta think I understand what you are saying. But, let's assume I ain't so smart (not a huge assumption) Pretend I am a 14 year old and tell me what to check when I go over to work on the car tomorrow. thanks!
 

JOD

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Originally Posted by Geauxtiger
I sorta think I understand what you are saying. But, let's assume I ain't so smart (not a huge assumption) Pretend I am a 14 year old and tell me what to check when I go over to work on the car tomorrow. thanks!
Here's a quick tutorial on removing it. bdcardinal said, it's not bad. I think it was about 2 hours the first time I did it--and lots of that was the hard pipe connection of the EGR... You can clean the TB while you're doing this, and between coils and cleaning the TB, this should do it. Swapping coils really won't do it on this car w/those rear 3 plugs though, since you have to pull the IM. I think your best bet is to just replace those 3 straight away. It's weird though, since coil pack issues are not really that common on this car. It's not a VW, where they're seem like they're disposable.
 

Geauxtiger

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Update: Going to clear limp mode and bring the car to my house this evening so that I have access to all my tools and can work on it at my leisure. I will take everyone's advice as I remove the intake and associated stuff...starting with checking all electrical connections I can reach prior to pulling out the wrenches. I'll also clean and inspect the throttle body and MAF. If I find anything interesting, I'll post pics.
 

Geauxtiger

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Originally Posted by Ozonkiller
O2 faults are almost never the sensor itself. Get all of the other issues fixed and I'll bet the O2 code never returns
Thanks Ozonkiller. I was just about to ask a question about the O2 sensors. I planning to replace both upstream sensors. Just got the intake off today. I can't even see the upstream rear O2 sensor, so I assume it is normally replaced from underneath? If so, I will just continue with replacement of the ignition coils and button things back up. IF an O2 sensor still throws a code, I will just take the car to a shop where the car can be put on a rack and sensors changed in a fraction of the time of me trying to do it at home . So, question: For this car/engine, the rear upstream O2 sensor is replaced from topside or underneath engine? If topside, then I may try to figure out how to get to do it before putting the intake back on. If underneath, then I'll let shop do it later, if needed. thanks!
 
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Geauxtiger

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A look under the 710 cap. Seems to look good for 205k miles of unknown oil change interval or oil quality

20190110_150404.jpg
 
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Geauxtiger

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Would like to express my thanks to all who gave me advice on this repair. Seems that the ignition coil replacement did the trick. I did clean the throttle body and the MAF sensor as well as replacing the intake gaskets while I had her apart. Engine runs smooth as silk now. (FYI - plugs were replaced a few weeks ago by someone else). Thanks!
 

Geauxtiger

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[img]https://imgur.com/a/gbX7MlE[/img] Well, after a week or so of running great, we have a brand new problem. Check out the hole in the intake just downstream of the throttle body. Looks to be burned. Thin walls, and evidence of melted plastic (top of hole). Is this an EGR issue? The EGR is mounted diagonally opposite of the hole, more or less. I did not remove the EGR from the intake, but rather just disconnected the electrical and disconnected the EGR from the hard pipe when I did the coil replacements. Did the EGR fail in the open position? (I did double check my connections and all seemed to be in order). Looks like the upper intake will have to be replaced unless someone knows of a good way to patch this hole. I suppose the EGR valve needs replacing also? Another concern....I wonder if any pieces of plastic made it further into the intake, ready to take out an intake valve at any time? Advice? Observations? Thanks!

Burnt Intake.jpg
 
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