After driving on the highway for 2+ hours, it feels like the torque converter or either 4th gear "lets go". RPM's will go up to around 3200 going 70 MPH. You feel a slight clunk as this happens. After 5 minutes or so of driving with the higher RPM's it will shift back down and behave normally, then about 10 minutes later...clunk, then RPMS are pegged over 3K again. This process will repeat until allowed to sit for a while, or until driving in slower city traffic. This only takes place at highway speeds and ONLY after driving for 2+ hours. I read the codes today and got P0716 - turbine / input shaft speed sensor A circuit range / performance. Not sure exactly what this means. This is happening on my mothers 2005 Chevrolet Uplander 3.5 with the 4 speed 4T65E transmission. She wants to get it fixed soon before going on a long trip. Do any of you know what would cause this behavior. The transmission fluid is about 3 years old and is still red and smells like it should. Ive done plenty of searches on google with no luck.
2005 Chevy Uplander transmission issues....
- Thread starter gregk24
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Get ready for a rebuilt trans job. Most likely you have a failing part and the debris is being picked up by the magnetic shift solenoids. I would drop the trans pan and see if you have debris. If you have zero debris then you probably have a bad shift solenoid. My guess is that the 3rd gear and 4th gear is shot.
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Originally Posted By: Doog
Get ready for a rebuilt trans job. Most likely you have a failing part and the debris is being picked up by the magnetic shift solenoids. I would drop the trans pan and see if you have debris. If you have zero debris then you probably have a bad shift solenoid. My guess is that the 3rd gear and 4th gear is shot.
Not sure about that, it was rebuilt 2.5ish years ago and all soft parts and torque converter plus a couple solenoids were replaced. Fluid is still clean and smells fresh. If you shift down into 3rd on the gear shift it behaves fine.
Get ready for a rebuilt trans job. Most likely you have a failing part and the debris is being picked up by the magnetic shift solenoids. I would drop the trans pan and see if you have debris. If you have zero debris then you probably have a bad shift solenoid. My guess is that the 3rd gear and 4th gear is shot.
Not sure about that, it was rebuilt 2.5ish years ago and all soft parts and torque converter plus a couple solenoids were replaced. Fluid is still clean and smells fresh. If you shift down into 3rd on the gear shift it behaves fine.
Originally Posted By: bioburner
2.5 years, half year past the warranty?
But you said transmission fluid was three years in first post?
Its somewhere between 2 to 3 years, its not my car so I'm not totally sure. I tried to get them to take it in earlier
.
2.5 years, half year past the warranty?
Its somewhere between 2 to 3 years, its not my car so I'm not totally sure. I tried to get them to take it in earlier
Does it drive normal if you take it out of over drive and use drive?
The 4T65e is a problematic transmission, I have one in my Buick and got it replaced with a triple edge rebuild.
Unfortunately most transmission rebuilds are done with cost in mind and even a good transmission shop may not know enough about this specific transmission to do a good job.
Take a look at this for some more information.
common codes for 4t65e
The 4T65e is a problematic transmission, I have one in my Buick and got it replaced with a triple edge rebuild.
Unfortunately most transmission rebuilds are done with cost in mind and even a good transmission shop may not know enough about this specific transmission to do a good job.
Take a look at this for some more information.
common codes for 4t65e
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Does it drive normal if you take it out of over drive and use drive?
The 4T65e is a problematic transmission, I have one in my Buick and got it replaced with a triple edge rebuild.
Unfortunately most transmission rebuilds are done with cost in mind and even a good transmission shop may not know enough about this specific transmission to do a good job.
Take a look at this for some more information.
common codes for 4t65e
Yes, if you put it into 3rd with the gearshift it drives fine.
Does it drive normal if you take it out of over drive and use drive?
The 4T65e is a problematic transmission, I have one in my Buick and got it replaced with a triple edge rebuild.
Unfortunately most transmission rebuilds are done with cost in mind and even a good transmission shop may not know enough about this specific transmission to do a good job.
Take a look at this for some more information.
common codes for 4t65e
Yes, if you put it into 3rd with the gearshift it drives fine.
GM transmissions, what can I say? This exact issue is one I've dealt with years ago on the dustbuster gen Pontiac van. In my case it was fine when cold, OD and lockup were in effect and as soon as the transmission warmed up they went away, leaving me stuck with 3rd gear and unlocked TC. At the time I had read something about GM using a bimetallic strip for something-something. That little tidbit stayed in my mind for years, until I dropped the pan on a 2005 4t45 less than a week ago. I'm not sure how different the 45 and 65 are, other than torque capacity. Is a 60/65 just a 40/45 with more clutches and wider bands? Maybe someone else knows but this relates to my 45 pan drop story in that as I removed the filter, I noticed another plastic thing right next to the filter shaped like a coffin. Apparently, it just clips on and I removed it. Apparently, there's that bimetallic strip I read about previously.
I had one heck of a time on the net for the nest 15 minutes trying to figure out what it is and what it does. It seems no one has ever documented this mystery part before...... it would seem. Finally found it on a parts explosion chart and looked up the PN it's described as a "Automatic Transmission Fluid Level Control Valve" with no more detailed information about it's operation.
[*the following is speculation]
Studying it, I've come to the conclusion that this thing retards the return of ATF to the sump when the ATF reaches a certain temperature, effectively removing a certain volume of fluid from circulation. Once heated, the bimetallic strip applies increasing pressure to (what has to be the cheapest flap of metal) valve that is plugged into the bottom of a cup-like reservoir in the transmission housing. Imagine a cup, with this temperature controlled valve plugged into the bottom and a regular 'overflow' hole on the side, near the top of the 'cup'. Now, IF the ATF pump bypass or return empties into this cup as I suspect it does, then the fluid leaks out the bottom through the "ATF level control valve" when the ATF is cold, therefore the cup holds nothing when ATF is cold.
As the ATF heats up, the "valve" closes and now the ATF has to build up in the cup until it reaches the top hole, thus reducing the amount of ATF available for circulation in the pan. I presume this is GMs elegant manner of compensating for ATF expansion which would change the fluid level. In our case with the 4t45 for some reason it was causing a buzzing noise at certain throttle positions in the 2005 transmission I dropped that pan on- I'd previously thought it was a solenoid going out prior to discovering the weird clip on valve. After cleaning the grey ferrous material on that valve and refilling the trans with the prescribed volume of fluid that buzzing went away.
Here it is btw:
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-24207185-Equipment-Automatic-Transmission/dp/B0016IWIT6/
Greg, I suspect the fluid level in your Uplander may be low or that this ATF level control valve may be operating incorrectly. These transmissions are "sealed" [read: designed to survive the warranty] and the fluid level can and will change over time. There is a procedure for checking the level that is much like a manual transmission but also required a level vehicle and certain ATF temp using the check plug
but you may just have better luck dropping the pan, possibly replacing the filter and/or that bimetallic strip part and refilling with the prescribed volume of fluid for a pan drop. On the 4t45 it's 7 liters.
Good luck
I had one heck of a time on the net for the nest 15 minutes trying to figure out what it is and what it does. It seems no one has ever documented this mystery part before...... it would seem. Finally found it on a parts explosion chart and looked up the PN it's described as a "Automatic Transmission Fluid Level Control Valve" with no more detailed information about it's operation.
[*the following is speculation]
Studying it, I've come to the conclusion that this thing retards the return of ATF to the sump when the ATF reaches a certain temperature, effectively removing a certain volume of fluid from circulation. Once heated, the bimetallic strip applies increasing pressure to (what has to be the cheapest flap of metal) valve that is plugged into the bottom of a cup-like reservoir in the transmission housing. Imagine a cup, with this temperature controlled valve plugged into the bottom and a regular 'overflow' hole on the side, near the top of the 'cup'. Now, IF the ATF pump bypass or return empties into this cup as I suspect it does, then the fluid leaks out the bottom through the "ATF level control valve" when the ATF is cold, therefore the cup holds nothing when ATF is cold.
As the ATF heats up, the "valve" closes and now the ATF has to build up in the cup until it reaches the top hole, thus reducing the amount of ATF available for circulation in the pan. I presume this is GMs elegant manner of compensating for ATF expansion which would change the fluid level. In our case with the 4t45 for some reason it was causing a buzzing noise at certain throttle positions in the 2005 transmission I dropped that pan on- I'd previously thought it was a solenoid going out prior to discovering the weird clip on valve. After cleaning the grey ferrous material on that valve and refilling the trans with the prescribed volume of fluid that buzzing went away.
Here it is btw:
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-24207185-Equipment-Automatic-Transmission/dp/B0016IWIT6/
Greg, I suspect the fluid level in your Uplander may be low or that this ATF level control valve may be operating incorrectly. These transmissions are "sealed" [read: designed to survive the warranty] and the fluid level can and will change over time. There is a procedure for checking the level that is much like a manual transmission but also required a level vehicle and certain ATF temp using the check plug
but you may just have better luck dropping the pan, possibly replacing the filter and/or that bimetallic strip part and refilling with the prescribed volume of fluid for a pan drop. On the 4t45 it's 7 liters.
Good luck
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Sounds like it's time to trade in
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Sounds like it's time to trade in
I think if they can spend $500 ish for a fix they will have it fixed. If its more than that they will likely ride on. Overall this vehicle has been pretty reliable, its had a transmission rebuild (not uncommon at all for ANY make of van) and some front suspension work. Other than that and some small annoyances its been great, its currently sitting at 140K and driving pretty smooth.
Sounds like it's time to trade in
I think if they can spend $500 ish for a fix they will have it fixed. If its more than that they will likely ride on. Overall this vehicle has been pretty reliable, its had a transmission rebuild (not uncommon at all for ANY make of van) and some front suspension work. Other than that and some small annoyances its been great, its currently sitting at 140K and driving pretty smooth.
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Sounds like it's time to trade in
I think if they can spend $500 ish for a fix they will have it fixed. If its more than that they will likely ride on. Overall this vehicle has been pretty reliable, its had a transmission rebuild (not uncommon at all for ANY make of van) and some front suspension work. Other than that and some small annoyances its been great, its currently sitting at 140K and driving pretty smooth.
What do you mean if it's over $500 they'll likely ride on? Keep driving t like it is?
Hopefully she doesn't get stranded on a trip.
I set a goal that no matter what I drive, I want to feel comfortable as far as reliability that it can drive across country the next day (I've had to do before) and not worry. One of the reasons my VW is gone.
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Sounds like it's time to trade in
I think if they can spend $500 ish for a fix they will have it fixed. If its more than that they will likely ride on. Overall this vehicle has been pretty reliable, its had a transmission rebuild (not uncommon at all for ANY make of van) and some front suspension work. Other than that and some small annoyances its been great, its currently sitting at 140K and driving pretty smooth.
What do you mean if it's over $500 they'll likely ride on? Keep driving t like it is?
Hopefully she doesn't get stranded on a trip.
I set a goal that no matter what I drive, I want to feel comfortable as far as reliability that it can drive across country the next day (I've had to do before) and not worry. One of the reasons my VW is gone.
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Sounds like it's time to trade in
I think if they can spend $500 ish for a fix they will have it fixed. If its more than that they will likely ride on. Overall this vehicle has been pretty reliable, its had a transmission rebuild (not uncommon at all for ANY make of van) and some front suspension work. Other than that and some small annoyances its been great, its currently sitting at 140K and driving pretty smooth.
What do you mean if it's over $500 they'll likely ride on? Keep driving t like it is?
Hopefully she doesn't get stranded on a trip.
I set a goal that no matter what I drive, I want to feel comfortable as far as reliability that it can drive across country the next day (I've had to do before) and not worry. One of the reasons my VW is gone.
I am the same way, but its not my car or my money.
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Sounds like it's time to trade in
I think if they can spend $500 ish for a fix they will have it fixed. If its more than that they will likely ride on. Overall this vehicle has been pretty reliable, its had a transmission rebuild (not uncommon at all for ANY make of van) and some front suspension work. Other than that and some small annoyances its been great, its currently sitting at 140K and driving pretty smooth.
What do you mean if it's over $500 they'll likely ride on? Keep driving t like it is?
Hopefully she doesn't get stranded on a trip.
I set a goal that no matter what I drive, I want to feel comfortable as far as reliability that it can drive across country the next day (I've had to do before) and not worry. One of the reasons my VW is gone.
I am the same way, but its not my car or my money.
Any issues with the 4t65e usually requires a full rebuild because of the location of everything once they do all the labor to open it up they should be replacing all the wear parts which is a $2000+ job if they're doing it right.
Some places will charge less because they'll actually open it up and just replace the bad parts and slap it together.
I told you before judge transmission rebuilders by their warranty. Avoid 12 months 12k miles warranty shops. Anyone offering a 3 year warranty with any mileage limits either 36k or unlimited is where you want to spend your money.
Some places will charge less because they'll actually open it up and just replace the bad parts and slap it together.
I told you before judge transmission rebuilders by their warranty. Avoid 12 months 12k miles warranty shops. Anyone offering a 3 year warranty with any mileage limits either 36k or unlimited is where you want to spend your money.
I wonder if the original trans shop that did the last re-build will cut them a break on fixing it again. Maybe the unit has a 3 yr warranty.
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
I wonder if the original trans shop that did the last re-build will cut them a break on fixing it again. Maybe the unit has a 3 yr warranty.
I highly doubt it, one's with 3 year warranty are harder to find. I only have one place in my area that offers 3 year and I still decided against using them based on the intricacies of this specific transmission that needs worn parts replaced when its torn down including hard parts that may not be worn yet just as a precaution.
I wonder if the original trans shop that did the last re-build will cut them a break on fixing it again. Maybe the unit has a 3 yr warranty.
I highly doubt it, one's with 3 year warranty are harder to find. I only have one place in my area that offers 3 year and I still decided against using them based on the intricacies of this specific transmission that needs worn parts replaced when its torn down including hard parts that may not be worn yet just as a precaution.
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