Run an Xw40 in it until it dies and then buy a JDM engine and swap it if you want to keep it. Probably get several more miles until this happens.
I’d question just how tight your tolerances are in that engine because you’re tossing some bearing material around inside that engine now. I wouldn’t worry about causing issues or if it ain’t broke don’t fix it, it is broke. I would bump that viscosity up and keep that thing going as long as I could.With the mileage, I’ve considered bumping up the viscosity, however, these VTEC engines have very tight tolerances and many oil controlled solenoids, therefore, I’m concerned that this may cause issues. I think we agree in that I should just keep running it like I have. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”. I guess I’ll plan to do another UOA at 300k and see where it’s at then.
Honda OEM filter will not make any difference.So now it's burning a little? Shorten the oci, use the Honda oem filter, and try an oil with more moly.
You’re totally fine I run 0/40 or 5/40 all day long. VTECH works normal and on strong at 3800rpm. If you look up the European manual it straight up says run 1540 if you’re in UAEWith the mileage, I’ve considered bumping up the viscosity, however, these VTEC engines have very tight tolerances and many oil controlled solenoids, therefore, I’m concerned that this may cause issues. I think we agree in that I should just keep running it like I have. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”. I guess I’ll plan to do another UOA at 300k and see where it’s at then.
Nobody knows how long it will last. There’s not many members on here with cases like this that actually see it thru till the end and REPORT BACK.
Yours is an amazing case for such experiments, especially being a one owner.
What was the oil life showing at the time of sampling? Maybe shorten it a bit and sample at the next OC to confirm the metal shedding.
It would be cool if you keep on running it and sample each time to monitor (see it increasing, for example) and see how it goes.
I wouldn’t be surprised if it easily makes it to 300k or beyond, even with a slowly failing motor.
Thanks for your input. In seeing a comparable UOA, I’ll probably drop the pan soon and inspect / replace the rod bearings.OP, below is a recent UOA of the K24 from my Accord of the same vintage and almost exact mileage on the car. Mine has had 7,500-12,500 mile OCI’s its entire life. 0w20 and 5w20 is all I’ve ever run in it.
You definitely have a problem.
Here are the options I see that you have:
1) drop the oil pan and inspect the rod bearings to see if they are the culprit. Hopefully, it is the rods and not the mains as rods are likely easier to swap (lots of contingencies here, though)
2) drive it until it quits (which could be tomorrow or years from now), and plan to either replace the engine or get rid of the car when it goes.
3) get rid of it now.
Also, I am jealous of your manual transmission. lol
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With the mileage, I’ve considered bumping up the viscosity, however, these VTEC engines have very tight tolerances and many oil controlled solenoids, therefore, I’m concerned that this may cause issues. I think we agree in that I should just keep running it like I have. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”. I guess I’ll plan to do another UOA at 300k and see where it’s at then.
And are still going 174,000 miles later ?Rod bearings are going. Just google K24 rod bearings. Started at 100k.
Yeah, wouldn’t shock me if he can get some more Mileage out of it, I’d like to see how far it would go like that as well.Nobody knows how long it will last. There’s not many members on here with cases like this that actually see it thru till the end and REPORT BACK.
Yours is an amazing case for such experiments, especially being a one owner.
What was the oil life showing at the time of sampling? Maybe shorten it a bit and sample at the next OC to confirm the metal shedding.
It would be cool if you keep on running it and sample each time to monitor (see it increasing, for example) and see how it goes.
I wouldn’t be surprised if it easily makes it to 300k or beyond, even with a slowly failing motor.
or M1 0w40Looks like you have worn main bearings. It would be logical to switch to a 5w40 and start shopping for a new car. Nothing lasts forever. Get yourself another used Acura with half the mileage.
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Its a k series, this should be very easy to do, and also boroscope the cylinders while he is at it.There is a possibility that the extended 9k OCI could be causing sludge
which is blocking oil passageways to the bearings and causing the high bearing wear
that the oil testing lab mentioned due to the high wear metals.
If it were my car I would do short oil change intervals,
and also have the valve covers removed to see if there is a sludge issue,
and do a valve adjustment at the same time.
Or drive what you have for another quarter of a million miles. Assessing main bearing wear from the information in this thread is not possible. Even if there is some wear, it does not necessarily mean the end of the road... I think that we are all adults and understand that anyone is on their own in a car with this mileage, but part of economical motoring is driving cars as long as possible. Acuras, Hondas, Lexuses, Toyotas often go starship distances.Looks like you have worn main bearings. It would be logical to switch to a 5w40 and start shopping for a new car. Nothing lasts forever. Get yourself another used Acura with half the mileage.
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