2005 Acura MDX 100,000 mile report

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I thought I'd write a report on how our 2005 Acura MDX is doing at the 100,000 mile mark. Vehicle history: my parents bought it new on June 30, 2005, from Pikes Peak Acura in Colorado Springs. They drove it for 58,000 miles giving it what I would call "non-standard duty". It has been parked for months on end on more than one occasion in Tucson, Arizona (where my brother lives) while they towed their other car, and I'd say that at least a third of its first 58,000 miles were spent being towed behind their RV. And yes, the miles are accurate; the car is towed four-down, in neutral, with the key in the ignition. Because of Honda's unique manual-like automatic transmission, all Honda automatics are towable four-down, and you thusly often see Hondas being towed behind RVs (if it's not a Jeep or something with a manual transfer case).

Anyway, we bought it from them in late November of 2010, to replace a very unreliable 2007 model minivan we had, from which we just couldn't get reliable service. This MDX has proven to be a wonderful family vehicle for us; we use the seven seats regularly...not often, but regularly. The third row seats are large enough that I can ride back there, but it's pretty uncomfortable. They're perfect for youngsters, though, which is how they get used with us. This MDX is the Touring model, which comes with a few extras, and my folks also optioned the in-dash navigation system and rear seat DVD video system.

As the car has been in the family for its whole life, I have the complete service history on it. I list below the parts that have been repaired or replaced due to failure or wear-out (except for fluids):

04/24/2006 (no miles noted): windshield replacement due to a rock
09/28/2008 (44,540): install new battery
11/14/2008 (45,913): front catalytic converter replacement*
11/20/2008 (46,112): intermediate steering joint replaced due to notchy operation
10/05/2009 (53,236): install four new tires (Michelin Energy MXV4+)
11/29/2010 (57,804): reprogram transmission via TSB
12/03/2010 (58,029): install adjustable rear upper control arms
12/11/2010 (58,300): install four new tires (Michelin Cross Terrain SUV)**
12/18/2010 (58,673): install front/rear brake pads, front rotors
04/19/2011 (63,935): install new battery
03/23/2012 (no miles noted): install new serpentine drive belt
06/30/2012 (81,973): install new front brake pads/hardware kit
04/26/2013 (93,700): install new spark plugs, timing belt/pulleys/tensioner, water pump
11/02/2013 (100,027): install new brake hardware and rear brake pads, new PCV valve

Note *: the front catalytic converter was replaced after an E-85 kit installed by my dad didn't turn out well. I don't know what caused the catalytic converter failure, but the timing is too coincidental to ignore. The kit was removed after only a week or two, and converter failure occurred a few months later. Cause-and-effect? I will never know. Just one of the converters was replaced, so maybe not...who knows.

Note **: the existing Michelin tires at the time had only 5,000 miles on them, and were near full tread depth, but they dry-rotted severely during over-summer storage in Tucson, Arizona in 2010. They had a car cover on it, but the cover had blown off and the car had sat exposed for many months in the desert sun. I elected to replace them when we bought the car out of an abundance of caution.

It has been a faithful servant in our household, and we hope to get another hundred thousand miles out of it. I recently replaced both the spark plugs and the timing belt (and its associated components, like tensioners and water pump). The total parts bill for that was about 400 bucks if I recall correctly, and labor was about six hours of my time in the garage, with a friend helping me. It was a breeze to do, and was quite enjoyable as well. Which is pretty much like all other maintenance on this car; Honda engineered a fantastically easy maintenance experience for a DIY owner. There's nothing on this car that is difficult to do. Fluids are easy to change, the engine and transmission both have dipsticks, the brakes are easy to service, the timing belt job was very straight-forward in terms of what had to be removed and when. It's just a very enjoyable vehicle to maintain.

What has impressed me the most about this vehicle is the quality of the parts used. All of the timing belt components looked like they had another hundred thousand miles left in them. The exhaust system is all original, the dampers are all original, the bushings are all original, the end links are all original. On the inside, the interior leather is in excellent condition still, there are no cracks in any of the plastic (like dashboard cracks), all of the lights and switches work as they should, both video screens (navigation and DVD video) work as they should. I don't mind replacing parts for maintenance (like the timing belt), and it makes me feel good to know that the new OEM parts that I'm installing should last as long as the old ones did, and be in as good of a condition as the old ones were at the stated end of their life.

The only area where the OEM parts are sub-par, at least in my experience, is the brake linings. I have found the Akebono Pro-ACT Ceramic pads to be superior to the OEM pads in most measures, and I use them with confidence now on my own cars and also on cars that I service for others.

The 3.5L V-6 continues to spin up with ease. It's got enough torque down low to get the car moving with tires trying to spin (against the VSA and VTM-4), and has plenty of top-end horsepower to really shove you in the back. On a wet road with VSA off, the VTM-4 will actually put the car into a bit of a drift if accelerating out of a corner. The transmission continues to shift better than it did when we first bought it, and is very predictable in its operation and its shifting. The programming on Honda transmissions is excellent. It's quick to downshift with more throttle and also quick to downshift if you're on the brakes, which provides engine braking and also sets you up for getting back on the gas. It's very unlike traditional automatic transmission programming that I'm used to, and I really appreciate how it works. It's a very active companion to the engine.

Just last weekend, I did its 100k mile service, which for me was oil/filter, transmission fluid drain-and-fill, power steering fluid suck-and-fill, brake service (re-lube pins, etc), and replacement of the PCV valve. Items that I would have done, but didn't because they've been done in the past year or two, include: coolant (replaced with timing belt change), brake fluid bleed, other driveline fluids (transfer case and VTM-4 fluid). I did take some pictures of the underside of the car, and will post them to this thread later.

I must say, if this car were totalled today, I'm not sure we'd get another MDX (cost), but I'm pretty sure our first choice would be a used Pilot (same chassis). Though I prefer the quicker responses of our CR-V, my wife loves the heck out of this car; she says the size of it works good for her and she likes how easy it is to park (backup camera), etc. Happy wife, happy life, right?
 
Originally Posted By: edwardh1
I thought akebono was oem ? at least on Toyota?


Akebono has a number of brake pad series, and none of the aftermarket ones (like the Pro-ACTs) would be the same as OEM anyway. They will say things like they have "OEM-specific" friction materials, but they're still an aftermarket product, and are likely superior to the OEM pads in a number of ways.

The OEM pads on the Acura were Advics in the front and Nissin in the rear. The brake pads I installed in late 2010 were sourced from Beck/Arnley and were supposed to be the OEM linings, but I wasn't happy with either set. I replaced the front pads a year or so go, and finally replaced the rear pads here recently, both with the aftermarket Akobono Pro-ACT Ceramic pads.
 
The Akebono pads are a lot better than the Honda OEM, which somehow manage to pretty average performance in any sort of review/comparison but still cover wheels in brown dust as though they were performance pads. Definitely Akebono makes OEM pads and may for Honda, but they are pretty night and day when you swap them.

I'm surprised at the double battery exchange, otherwise this is a pretty reasonable deal you've got going.
 
I think the deal with the first two batteries (OEM and first replacement) is the type of service. The battery was dead everytime they got the car from storage (the car was "put away wet" and stored for seasons at a time). Three years out of a battery in the extreme heat of the desert southwest isn't all that unreasonable anyway, but given the nature of duty those two batteries saw, it doesn't surprise me. As you can see, the second replacement battery was installed just a few months after we bought the car, so it had probably gotten iffy already.

The battery I installed in 2011 is still going strong, and shows no signs of weakness. If the trend keeps up, I'll have to replace it next year. For reasons stated, I doubt the trend will keep up. Even if it does, it's an EverStart Maxx with a 3 year free replacement period, so it would be no money out of pocket anyway.
 
Very nice write-up, thanks for sharing. Honda is very competent at engineering their vehicles well and making them relatively easy to work on.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
Whats the deal with the batteries every 3 years?


HEAT build up from the V-6 in small engine compartment, destroys the battery. RAV4 V-6 has same problem
 
Just an update on the battery situation. The car has 112k miles now and the current battery has 3.5 years and 48,000 miles on it (with no signs of deterioration). I believe what got the first two batteries were the long periods of wet storage and intermittent use.
 
Did you do a valve adjustment yet? The exhaust valves on those have a tendency to tighten up over time. Surprising how much more power and smooth operation you get when the valves are adjusted correctly. Great motor when properly tuned.
 
I have not. The engine is incredibly smooth. Best V-6 engine I've ever owned, but the others have been lower tech OHV engines, so the bar wasn't that high to begin with. I may get curious enough to check the valve adjustment on a Saturday morning with good weather. I enjoy doing maintenance items like that; it's not "work" to me.
 
Very nice write-up, thanks. Modern vehicles certainly seem to offer a great deal of bang-for-buck to the consumer, especially when that consumer is willing to do the "checks" and routine maintenance that most service intervals seem to entail at relatively high-cost. Here, knowledge equals power equals more money in your pocket. Hokie, you seem to have the best of both worlds: a highly refined and well engineered product combined with a do-it-yourself disposition, a win-win. You know the work is being done correctly and with care; the long term health of the vehicle is all but guaranteed.
 
Quote:
(93,700)..All of the timing belt components looked like they had another hundred thousand miles left in them...There's nothing on this car that is difficult to do.
(58,673) install adjustable rear upper control arms

Had problem with leaky tensioner on a Honda V6. Replaced on recall near 35K and by 105K, was leaking when replaced with timing belt. Leaky tensioner if lost its tension could cause valve-piston collision.

Found the crankshaft pulley bolt hard to remove. The rest of the TB job tedious. Pins to locate water pump got stuck, some in block, some in old pump. Tediously removed them. Many timing chain vehicles would be sold long before needing timing chain service by 1st or 2nd owner. Whereas timing belts are often needed by the first or second owner.

Why the new rear control arms? Saggy springs, bad negative camber come to mind. Presuming adjustables as replacements to make up for saggy springs next time. Never had to replace control arms on any of my cars. Sometimes lower control arm adjustment for toe gets frozen. Have to cut the lower arm out and replace.

Intermediate steering mount? Never had do do that on my old cars either. From towing? Crash damage?

Also, engine mounts, valve adjustment, clean out EGR passages might typically be needed near 100k on these.

Hope yours does well in the future. Routinely, old Corollas even with AT seem to need even less repair.
My Honda V6 has been a too high repair vehicle. Disappointing. Needed transmission replacement, evap system, subframe shifting, pwr window repair, door lock actuator, spoiler gasket repair, valve adjustment, Egr passage cleaning, Srs system malfunction, all engine mounts as well as all routine maintenance.
 
Originally Posted By: thrace
Why the new rear control arms? Saggy springs, bad negative camber come to mind. Presuming adjustables as replacements to make up for saggy springs next time. Never had to replace control arms on any of my cars.


Yes, these are the upper control arms. They call them "control arms", but they're really just links. In fact, here's a picture of them, freshly installed:

2010-12-04_14-23-16_901.jpg


I don't like the design of the arms. As you can see, the outboard end has a ball joint, and I don't care to have another ball joint in the system if I don't need it. Our Honda has a similar upper control arm design, except that the outboard connection is a through-bolt, just like the inboard connection. I'm sure there's a reason that Honda used a ball joint in this rear suspension design (that is shared to some degree with the Pilot, Ridgeline, and Odyssey), but I prefer the through-bolt design.

On this vehicle, the rear springs are quite expensive and, although they may be sagging some, I'm satisfied with the rear ride height. So I elected to replace the control arms instead. With the factory arms, camber is fixed. There are no cam bolts to adjust camber. Adjustable arms are the only option.

I didn't have to replace these, but I enjoy tweaking alignment on my cars, and making it exactly the way I want it. Rear camber was at the very extreme end of the range (to negative). On this vehicle, I wanted less negative camber, for a more comfortable ride and more even tire wear. I have it set to about -0.5 deg right now. Our Honda has about -1.5 deg of camber, and I like it. Tire wear is less than optimal, but it handles GREAT.

Originally Posted By: thrace
Intermediate steering mount? Never had do do that on my old cars either. From towing? Crash damage?


It's hard to say why. The car has never been in an accident, so it's not from that. It could have been from towing it four-down for so many miles. The bearing in the mount could have become dry from season-long storage. It had a noise to it which was very similar to the problem with GM intermediate steering shafts. Cadillac replaced one of those for me under an extended warranty on a 2001 STS. Very common in those FWD platforms. I really don't know why it needed replacing. Acura replaced it under warranty.

Originally Posted By: thrace
Also, engine mounts, valve adjustment, clean out EGR passages might typically be needed near 100k on these.


I'm considering looking into replacing the large front engine mount. It's an active mount that is known to get "lazy" as it ages. Honda engine mounts aren't known to be all that robust in general from what I understand.
 
A nice write up about what would seem to be a nice ride.

But I am appalled at the amount of service required. I would be disappointed in my fleet trucks and even a bit lit up about my personal cars needing that much servicing.

Just an opinion from another enthusiast. And I would buy two Hondas if it made my Wife happy!
 
I think the two things that Acura takes the hit on are the intermediate steering shaft replacement and transmission software program update. And I'm not convinced that the steering shaft replacement couldn't be linked to being dragged around the country behind a motorhome for the first half of its life. Your personal and/or fleet vehicles may have different service requirements if they're stored for seasons at a time and/or towed around four-down behind another vehicle for tens of thousands of miles. Since we bought it (at about 58,000 miles), some of the things I attribute to its unconventional use have leveled out (like not needing batteries every two years, etc).
 
I have never been a huge fan of timing belts, but the Honda V6s are the smoothest I have ever experienced. I'm glad that, at 100K, the timing belt components looked like they had a lot of life left in them. I have a friend with a 2005 Accord with ~110K and he refuses to change the belt. He "can't afford" the change. Well, when your belt fails and takes out a $5000 engine ... guess the $500 timing belt change was cheap.

In a way, topics like this really make me wish I lived in the south. Where cars didn't rust. And I could buy something 10 years old and replace a control arm if needed. That type of stuff just is not possible here in the rust belt.
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88
I have never been a huge fan of timing belts, but the Honda V6s are the smoothest I have ever experienced. I'm glad that, at 100K, the timing belt components looked like they had a lot of life left in them. I have a friend with a 2005 Accord with ~110K and he refuses to change the belt. He "can't afford" the change. Well, when your belt fails and takes out a $5000 engine ... guess the $500 timing belt change was cheap.

In a way, topics like this really make me wish I lived in the south. Where cars didn't rust. And I could buy something 10 years old and replace a control arm if needed. That type of stuff just is not possible here in the rust belt.


Yep, there's a real advantage to being down here in FL. When I sold my 04 service van with a half million miles that was the first thing the guy from Michigan who bought it said.

"I can't believe how clean it is underneath"...
 
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