2004 Harley Road King Amsoil TRO 20W-50 4,000 mile

[cfromc]

Total mileage on vehicle is 7,539 and oil was in service for one year (this OCI ended early November, 2006). Filter was HD 5 micron filter and make-up oil was cheapo Trak-Auto 20W-50 added about 3-4 ounces and actually overfilled it slightly. Most of the mileage was put on during a trip to Sturgis and back plus riding around SD (about 2,500 miles total). Previous OCI was with Amsoil's "old" MC formula 20W-50. Surprised about the high TBN, low viscosity and flash point.

(actual value/universal average)
ALUMINUM 3/4
CHROMIUM 1/1
IRON 7/12
COPPER 25/14
LEAD 1/2
TIN 1/1
MOLYBDENUM 94/104
NICKEL 0/0
MANGANESE 0/0
SILVER 0/0
TITANIUM 0/0
POTASSIUM 0/2
BORON 17/142
SILICON 8/9
SODIUM 4/5
CALCIUM 3000/2259
MAGNESIUM 28/322
PHOSPHORUS 1060/988
ZINC 1239/1248
BARIUM 0/1

SUS Visc @ 210: 78.1/82-95
Flashpoint: 380/>385
Fuel: TR/ Water: 0/ Insolubles: .1/
Blackstone's Comments: "Nice wearing bike engine. We would consider this copper reading high were it not for the
newness of the engine. As is, we think the copper will come down of its own account and eventually
read at about the same level as iron. The TBN was 9.7, so you have hardly touched the active additive
in this oil in the 4,000 miles you've run it. Universal averages show typical wear metals for an oil from
this type engine after about 3,505 miles run on the oil. Your oil was in use 4,000 miles, and could have
been run longer. Try 4,750 miles on the oil use next sample."

Filter was K&N and during the summer I switched to a Zipper's performance filter (K&N knock-off I believe). Surprised by the Moly, I didn't know Amsoil used moly and I don't believe that the 3-4 oz. of the make-up oil would put 94ppm when diluted with 4 quarts of Amsoil. This TRO is a little thin for a 20W-50 but it seems like it has even thinned out more. Wear looks very good except for copper, but the copper is not outrageous compared to the universal averages. Will see if it goes down next UAO. I have gone to Redline oil and an Amsoil EaO filter this OCI.

 

[Pablo]

Still breaking in. I have come to the conclusion the TRO was built to shear a bit, but you did have a trace of fuel and your flashpoint is low.

Yes Amsoil now use Mo and B in varying amounts in most synthetic formulations.

 

[cfromc]

It was drained cold which may account for the trace of the fuel although this is a carbed bike and I do warm it up before riding. Overall, I was happy with the UOA except for the copper. This run included a few times stuck in Sturgis traffic at over 90 degrees. One time it took me about 40 minutes to go less than 1 mile. I stopped for 5 minutes and then went another mile in 15 minutes. Probably hard on the oil but it stood up. I thought the racing oil was on the thin side for 20W-50 so its not as if it started at 21@100 and thinned to 17@100. I think its under 20 to start with.

Does the motorcycle oil 20W-50 have moly in it also? I will try the Redline once or twice and see what the UOA reads and maybe switch back to Amsoil.

 

[Laminar Lou]

Quote:

---

Does the motorcycle oil 20W-50 have moly in it also? I will try the Redline once or twice and see what the UOA reads and maybe switch back to Amsoil.

---

Yes, the Amsoil 20W50 does have Moly in it - at least my last UOA with it showed some. Not gobbs of Moly (I showed 36ppm), but a judicious amount.

 

[cfromc]

I almost forgot, this OCI had over 15 full RPM (6200-6700), full throttle, dyno runs. I'm pretty happy with this oil and may run it again in the future.

 

[TeeDub]

Baseline viscosity for this formulation is 18.3 Cst as I recall. The minimal viscosity change you see is mostly likely due to fuel dilution.

Given the TBN of 9.7 and the very low solids level of 0.1%, you could run this same batch of Amsoil for several years under these conditions and merely change oil filters occasionally. For dry clutch applications such as this, I like the Series 2000 Racing Oil even more than the Amsoil 20w-50 MC oil.

Amsoil has added some MoDTC to this formulation, but there's no need for the boron, since they still have a good slug of ZDDP in this add pack.

 

[blueglide88]

Quote:

---

Baseline viscosity for this formulation is 18.3 Cst as I recall. The minimal viscosity change you see is mostly likely due to fuel dilution.

Given the TBN of 9.7 and the very low solids level of 0.1%, you could run this same batch of Amsoil for several years under these conditions and merely change oil filters occasionally. For dry clutch applications such as this, I like the Series 2000 Racing Oil even more than the Amsoil 20w-50 MC oil.

Amsoil has added some MoDTC to this formulation, but there's no need for the boron, since they still have a good slug of ZDDP in this add pack.

---

THe Road King does not have a dry clutch. No new Harley has a dry clutch. Harley has not had a dry clutch since the early 1980's.

 

[TeeDub]

Thanks for the correction, but since the TRO formulation meets the "JASO MB" spec, it will also work just fine with wet clutch bikes....

Before Amsoil came out with their MC oils, I knew a number of folks locally who were using the Series 2000 racing oil with excellent results in Harleys, Ducatis, BMW's, etc.

The Amsoil MC oils were released more for marketing reasons than for any issues with wet clutch compatiblity. Their regular 10w-40 and 20w-50 have been used in wet clutch application for 25 years with no problems.

TD

 

[wileyE]

Sorry but Jaso MB is friction modified oil for engine use only. The non friction reduced MA spec is for shared engine/clutch/gearbox. If the bike uses separate fills, you could use the MB on the engine side, MA in the gearbox/clutch.

 

[cfromc]

Well, it is a wet-clutch, but fortunately, the primary, transmission, and engine all have separate sumps so it really doesn't matter what engine oil I run as far as the clutch is concerned. That is one of the reasons I chose the racing oil. I really like the way the BTs are set-up with the separate sumps. That way I can use the best fluids for each individual sump. The primary only needs a thin oil, even an ATF, to lube the chain and provide some cooling. The transmission, I believe, should have a gear lube type fluid like manual transmission lube or "gear lube". And the engine, obviously, engine oil, without major worry about moly or other friction modifiers damaging the clutch. The only complaint I have with the TRO is that the engine seemed a little louder mechanically, possibly due to the fact that the TRO is a little "thin" for a 20W-50. Next I'll be testing Redline, then perhaps Amsoil MCV and/or VP Racing. If the noise is the same for all, then I will base my ultimate decision mainly on the UAO's.

 

[KBFXDLI]

The fuel is not even a consideration for a TC carbed version. Even the FI models dump gas in the oil when cold and if you didn't fully warm it up once then you will get some fuel indication. As for the primary I am running redline MTL in mine because it's a 80w90 oil that pours like atf. MTL reduces cold clutch drag.

 

[KBFXDLI]

FWIW...I think you wouldlike the Amsoil MCV better with regard to the mechanical noise issue. I have 2 friends who use MCV and like it the best. Mobil1Vtwin 20w50 really quieted my engine dramatically as well. I'm going to try Redline 20w50 this Summer as well.