2004 Ford Explorer For Sale

[AJB0009]

Greater Charlotte NC area.
First $3,500 cash takes it.

 

[AJB0009]

I tried to attach a Word document but was not able to. So, I guess I will copy and paste:
2004 Ford Explorer XLT, 2WD, 152,800 miles, 4.0L SOHC Engine, 5R55S Transmission (5-Speed Auto), Towing Package (Limited-Slip Rear Differential), 1FMDU63K24ZA52359

White exterior, Grey interior

I purchased 6JAN18 from a private party in Greenville, SC with 120,000 miles on it.

Items replaced by previous owner:

• Harmonic balancer (OEM)
• Radiator (SPI)
• Water pump (OEM)
• Throttle body (OEM)
• Brakes at all four wheels (OEM)

Work that I have completed since:

• Fuel filter (OEM) (17FEB18; 120,716)
• Spark plugs (OEM) (18FEB18; 120,733)
• Transmission filter and 5 Qt fluid (OEM) (17MAR18; 121,103)
• Intake breather tube and PCV (OEM) (18MAR18; 121,118)
• Thermostat, housing, heater hoses, coolant temperature sensor, new anti-freeze (OEM) (31MAR18, 121,485)
• Alternator (Reman, lifetime warranty) (1APR18; 121,501)
• Serpentine idler and tensioner (7APR18; 121,614)
• Lower oil pan (OEM) (14JUL18; 123,403)
• Windshield washer pump (5JAN19; 126,792)
• Rear differential fluid (OEM, full synthetic) (2MAR19; 128,152)
• Heater hoses, Tee, rear heat control/bypass valve, new anti-freeze (OEM) (23MAR19; 128,538)
• Left rear door window regulator (23JUN19; 130,283)
• All, front and rear, sway bar links and bushings (Moog) (16MAY20; 135,841)
• Valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets, timing cover gaskets, front main seal (All Fel-Pro). Timing chain tensioners, Jack shaft chain tensioner and guide (All OEM). Lower radiator hose and new anti-freeze (19DEC20; 139,385)
• Battery (Napa Legend Premium) (15JAN21; 139,646)
  • EGR valve (Advance) and Crankshaft position sensor (OEM) (5JUN21; 140,519)
  • Intermediate and overdrive transmission servo valves (AJ1E kit) (19JUN22; 142,870)
  • Coil pack, plug wires, transmission filter and 5 Qt fluid (OEM). Air filter (Fram Ultra) (23JUL22; 143,050)
  • Four new Falken Wildpeak tires (4AUG22; 143,122)
  • Spark plugs (OEM) clean MAF sensor (6AUG22; 143,143)
  • Left front hub/bearing assembly, adjust transmission bands, windshield washer nozzles (20AUG22; 143,250)
  • Pinion seal (OEM) and hood support struts (26NOV22; 143,908)
  • Rear brake pads, rotors, and calipers (3JUL23; 145,825)
  • Throttle body (Reman, lifetime warranty) (7OCT23; 146,439)
  • Right front hub/bearing assembly (23DEC23; 147,077)
  • Brake light switch (13JUL24; 149,655)
    • Both upstream oxygen sensors, new anti-freeze (16AUG25; 152,727)
• Oil and filter changes:
  
  • 120,134 (15JAN18)
  • 123,403 (14JUL18)
  • 126,001 (10NOV18)
  • 128,538 (23MAR19)
  • 131,835 (17AUG19)
  • 135,351 (1MAY20)
  • 139,389 (19DEC20)
  • 141,760 (6NOV21)
  • 143,908 (26NOV22)
  • 147,077 (23DEC23)
  • 150,058 (30AUG24)
  • 152,727 (16AUG25)
  • Known Issues:
    
    • Fuel gauge does not always work (I fill it up and reset the trip odometer). It will sometimes throw a check engine light code for fuel level signal wrong.
    • Rear wheel bearings are starting to howl.
    • When it is warm outside (summer) and it gets hot in the engine compartment (after extensive idling or driving) it will buck or jerk when put under load (such as acceleration, going up a hill, or when A/C is on). The root issue is the PCM (Powertrain control module). The main chip loses communication with engine sensors. I have tried a few different used PCM’s, however they all do the same thing, to varying degrees. A new PCM is not available from Ford. I have not tried a remanufactured PCM. I sent my original PCM to a place to have it repaired, they sent it back and said they do not have access to the defective chip.
      • Dent in left quarter panel
      • Rear main seal drips
      • Rear gate window does not open (broken cable)
  • Notes:
    
    • Very clean inside and out
    • Less than 10,000 miles on tires
    • Drivetrain (Engine, transmission, and rear differential) are strong and solid
    • Does not use/burn any oil
    • Original, undamaged windshield
    • Not a speck of rust anywhere
    • Third row seats
    • All back seats fold flat
    • Rear heat and A/C
    • Clean title

 

[Lubener]

Very nice. Too bad you are not in Ohio.

 

[Analog-1]

It's a 2004 with high miles it's not worth 3500.00 to be honest. 2500 tops. Blue book would show less.

 

[SC Maintenance]

It's a 2004 with high miles it's not worth 3500.00 to be honest. 2500 tops. Blue book would show less.

If its been in the South its whole life and rust free, should sell fast at that price I think.

 

[Analog-1]

If its been in the South its whole life and rust free, should sell fast at that price I think.

Possibly. But those vehicles are money pits. Just saying.

 

[ripcord]

Early 2000s Explorers were some of the worst. It's going to need timing chains and guides if it doesn't already.

 

[AJB0009]

It's a 2004 with high miles it's not worth 3500.00 to be honest. 2500 tops. Blue book would show less.

You think 152,800 miles is high for a 21-year-old vehicle? That's an average of 7,276 per year.

 

[ripcord]

You think 152,800 miles is high for a 21-year-old vehicle? That's an average of 7,276 per year.

It's high for that year and model in terms of average time until a major repair.

 

[Rand]

Possibly. But those vehicles are money pits. Just saying.

I think you are 100% wrong about the price $3500 is reasonable have you been car shopping recently..
What you can get for 3500?
NO RUST?

It's a 2004 with high miles it's not worth 3500.00 to be honest. 2500 tops. Blue book would show less.

Who goes by blue book on a 21year old vehicle. It worth more than any rusty piles that age you would see in Ohio or Michigan.

 

[Zee09]

If you're not interested in the vehicle why attack the OP on the price...
Would you want the same treatment

 

[Analog-1]

If you're not interested in the vehicle why attack the OP on the price...
Would you want the same treatment

No attack here, just simply pointing out the facts.

 

[Zee09]

No attack here, just simply pointing out the facts.

He can ask $35k for it if he wants

 

[JavierH19]

It's a 2004 with high miles it's not worth 3500.00 to be honest. 2500 tops. Blue book would show less.

3500 if it's rust free, in decent cosmetic shape inside and out which it seems to be a bit of paint off the bumper and a few cracks in the drivers seat isn't bad, runs good, ac and heater work good yeah it's worth 3500 in this economy. If the drivetrain was on its last legs no, if it was rusty and in poor shape inside and out then no and especially if the evaporator and heater core are bad and the dash needs to be torn into. I can live with the fuel gauge not working and a drip. New rear bearings aren't bad on these older fords.

 

[SatinSilver]

Maybe @RooflessVW might be interested in it.

 

[Rand]

No attack here, just simply pointing out the facts.

I'd say "simply giving your opinion"
Those facts aren't factual

 

[RooflessVW]

Maybe @RooflessVW might be interested in it.

Not a bad looking rig. Maybe if one of my kids was closer to driving.

 

[dnewton3]

Folks -

If you're not interested in buying the listed item(s) then there's no reason for you to participate.
The conversation and negotiations would take place between seller and prospective buyer(s). Pricing negotiations should be done in PMs.

 

[TiGeo]

Looks solid. I had an '03. Good vehicles. $3500 in 2025 is fair for a safe older vehicle in good mechanical shape. GLWS.

 

[TiGeo]

No attack here, just simply pointing out the facts.

So offer $2500 with cash in hand. It's worth what the market will bare. It's not like he's here asking ten grand.