I have a 2003 GMC 2500HD 8.1 Liter 8100 V8 Vortec Engine. Its Been 3000 miles since my last oil change and my check oil level light came on my DIC and my dipstick only has about 1/4 inch of oil showing on it. Whats the deal?
2003 GMC 2500HD Oil Problems
- Thread starter MLeBlanc
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Well, you are defiantly burning oil. What brand/viscosity do you use?
Using a thicker viscosity, such as 15W-40, might help to reduce oil consumption. Make sure to check your oil level frequently so that you don't run out of oil.
You might have an oil leak (check for oil leaks under the car). If not, it might be worn valve-stem oil seals, the usual cause of burning excessive oil. You might also have worn or dirty/stuck rings.
You might have an oil leak (check for oil leaks under the car). If not, it might be worn valve-stem oil seals, the usual cause of burning excessive oil. You might also have worn or dirty/stuck rings.
BB Chevy's do consume some oil. It seems that the bigger the bore the more oil they use.
454 engines have used a bit of oil since i can remember, as far back as the 70s
What brand & viscosity of oil is in the 8.1L now? What are your driving habits? How many miles on the 8.1L?
Rotella T6 5W-40 {might} have your name all over it...
Rotella T6 5W-40 {might} have your name all over it...
Valvoline Maxlife 10W40/10W30 may reduce oil consumption.
I agree with T6 5w40, or MaxLife synthetic 10w40.
ive checked for oil leaks on nothing visible. Also doesn't seem to be burning oil. If it is I havent smelled it. The truck has 103 some odd miles on it and im using Valvoline snthetic blend 5w-30 which is reconmmended for my truck. I have been doing alot of Highway driving lately but usually a mix between highway and city/suburbs.
103,000 miles i mean
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2024
5W-30 is to thin for a big block. If you want to run it go ahead. The RV guys use oil in the 8.1. Nature of the beast. Many use a quality 40 to 50 weight. Be it 10 or 5. So 10W-40 and so on.
Do you tow? Can you get your Cylinder pressures up?
Do you tow? Can you get your Cylinder pressures up?
I agree that IMO 5w30 is not the best choice. I would go with 10w30 and see if that improves it any. But as I said before all big blocks use some oil.
only reason i was using 5w-30 is cause thats what the manual said to ust said anything else wasn't recommended
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2024
I run 10W-30 or 10W-40 in everything. Even though it all calls for 5W-30, well the Buick actually ask for 10W-30.
ML: Good Advice above... With that many miles, even though these days 100K is really nothing... You might think of a High Mileage oil or like stated above a 10W-40 or 10W-30... Even a 5W-40 HDEO Diesel Oil w/the more Robust Additive Package, might just do the trick...5W-30 with that big motor and 100K is too low of viscosity... It obvious! Only way to find out is try something different...
I agree with the others,although I may use 5w 30 during the winter if you live in a cold climate.
454 is alot of inches so you will use more that an engine half its size.
Did you do your last oil change yourself? If not you may have something else in it,never know.Some cheaper oil will be beat to death in 1000 miles and be "disappearing" due to evaporation and viscosity loss {the viscosity loss usually shows on the oil pressure gauge at idle with a warmed engine}
I would get 10w 30 Max life and change it myself.
Also make sure your engine hasnt been running hot..fan clutch,thermostat that only partial opens and the like.
If you have a temp gauge 200 or so is normal if it running warmer you cooling system is not be keeping up.
Although rare the pcv valve can stick and cause oil to get pushed past the rings..this would need to be fixed pronto as seals will be in danger of getting pushed out.
Last but not least,hard usage such as towing can sometimes make an engine use a little oil.
454 is alot of inches so you will use more that an engine half its size.
Did you do your last oil change yourself? If not you may have something else in it,never know.Some cheaper oil will be beat to death in 1000 miles and be "disappearing" due to evaporation and viscosity loss {the viscosity loss usually shows on the oil pressure gauge at idle with a warmed engine}
I would get 10w 30 Max life and change it myself.
Also make sure your engine hasnt been running hot..fan clutch,thermostat that only partial opens and the like.
If you have a temp gauge 200 or so is normal if it running warmer you cooling system is not be keeping up.
Although rare the pcv valve can stick and cause oil to get pushed past the rings..this would need to be fixed pronto as seals will be in danger of getting pushed out.
Last but not least,hard usage such as towing can sometimes make an engine use a little oil.
dnewton3
Staff member
First of all, as I understand it, the 8.1L engine generally shares nothing in common with the old 7.4L engine, except that it's big. Do not compare those two; it is more fair to contrast them.
Second, there is nothing wrong with the use of 5w-30. You can move up to a slightly higher vis, but that is a band-aid to whatever ails your truck. Have you owned this truck since new? Did your truck always consume oil this much, or has it started recently? If this has been a "newer" phenomenon, then I suggest you have issues elsewhere.
I agree that useage has a lot to do with consumption; have you changed the way you use the truck or experienced a significant shift in the environment you operate in?
Sometimes, simple age might be creeping up on the engine. The accumulated effected of byproducts from combustion might be at play here. I would suggest trying a product called Auto-RX. I had fantastic documented success with that product to restore my engine compression in an older Taurus; long story short, the rings were coked in the lands. A few cycles of ARX properly administered, and everything was back to factory spec, like new condition. The thing about ARX is that it's easy to use, it's not very expensive (compared to the alternative of major engine work) and it has a very high success rate. It will "clean" your engine better than any HM oil ever could. It will not, however, fix a mechanical failure such as damaged seal, etc. But it can liberate seals to become pliable again, and it can liberate piston rings to restore oil control. If you're sure the engine is not leaking oil, then it is consuming it. You might very well be able to significantly reduce the consumption.
Second, there is nothing wrong with the use of 5w-30. You can move up to a slightly higher vis, but that is a band-aid to whatever ails your truck. Have you owned this truck since new? Did your truck always consume oil this much, or has it started recently? If this has been a "newer" phenomenon, then I suggest you have issues elsewhere.
I agree that useage has a lot to do with consumption; have you changed the way you use the truck or experienced a significant shift in the environment you operate in?
Sometimes, simple age might be creeping up on the engine. The accumulated effected of byproducts from combustion might be at play here. I would suggest trying a product called Auto-RX. I had fantastic documented success with that product to restore my engine compression in an older Taurus; long story short, the rings were coked in the lands. A few cycles of ARX properly administered, and everything was back to factory spec, like new condition. The thing about ARX is that it's easy to use, it's not very expensive (compared to the alternative of major engine work) and it has a very high success rate. It will "clean" your engine better than any HM oil ever could. It will not, however, fix a mechanical failure such as damaged seal, etc. But it can liberate seals to become pliable again, and it can liberate piston rings to restore oil control. If you're sure the engine is not leaking oil, then it is consuming it. You might very well be able to significantly reduce the consumption.
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The voice of reason speaks.
If this vehicle has not burned oil in the past, then why would it begin "suddenly?"
Have you recently switch oil brands?
Obviously, you can go up a grade if you want (I'm using 15w40 during summer), but I don't think switching grades is going to make any significant difference until ruling out mechanical issues.
If this vehicle has not burned oil in the past, then why would it begin "suddenly?"
Have you recently switch oil brands?
Obviously, you can go up a grade if you want (I'm using 15w40 during summer), but I don't think switching grades is going to make any significant difference until ruling out mechanical issues.
ML: Newton has brought up a few very good pts... Can you share with us the previous maintanence records of your truck? Was the oil changed every 3K to 5K miles? As well as the air filter maintanence... I for one am curious what brand of 5W-30 you have been using...
8.1 L = 502 ci.Running a 'car oil' based on GM's need to meet CAFE standards is not my idea of great protection,will it work?,sure.But it'll vaporize and shear that 30 weight in no time.Try working with a 5w40 to begin with and move up from there.You'll still use oil,but LOSE/vaporize less each oci, yes move higher up the viscosity scale using incremental changes and document oil usage along the way because you're not saving any gas with that engine no matter how thin GM/GOV thinks you should go.Now I'm off to put on my firesuit and welding mask.
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