2003 GM Truck Decision - Gas or Diesel?
- Thread starter Auae85
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At that price, those mileages, and load capacities, the ¾ ton diesel would be hard to turn down for me. The only issue I see is your expected use ... will you be hauling with the truck or running empty most of the time? The half ton will ride better unloaded, the three-quarter ton better loaded.
Duramax's might require some comparatively expensive maintenance, but those costs can be amortized over what is potentially a million mile motor. If neglected (what are your habits?) they can instead be a cost sink. Do you put off maintenance of take car of it right away? Those are the kind of questions you need to ask yourself.
Duramax's might require some comparatively expensive maintenance, but those costs can be amortized over what is potentially a million mile motor. If neglected (what are your habits?) they can instead be a cost sink. Do you put off maintenance of take car of it right away? Those are the kind of questions you need to ask yourself.
I really like the Duramax engine......But I wouldn't recommend going out & buying a '01-'04 LB7 without doing a TON of reading on the subject.
Injectors wear out on these & NO amount of voodoo/additives/wishful thinking will change that! First design Injectors had a problem with cracked bodies....I doubt any LB7 still has it's original Injectors!!!
There are several service precaution while changing them out, Not a job for most hobbyists.
Water pumps aren't that bad....Especially the LB7 & LLY without the engine mounted fan shroud, Toughest thing is getting the balancer bolt off.
The later LBZ & LMM are far superior in MANY ways.
Quadrasteer is VERY reliable, The same set-up was used in 1500 & 2500 pick-up's & is based on a Dana 60.
The ONLY pattern failure I ever seen with them is the rear steer motor position sensor getting water in it. Unfortunately this is becoming more & more frequent as the trucks age & the seals in the sensor shrink-up. And yes it IS discontinued by GM.
Injectors wear out on these & NO amount of voodoo/additives/wishful thinking will change that! First design Injectors had a problem with cracked bodies....I doubt any LB7 still has it's original Injectors!!!
There are several service precaution while changing them out, Not a job for most hobbyists.
Water pumps aren't that bad....Especially the LB7 & LLY without the engine mounted fan shroud, Toughest thing is getting the balancer bolt off.
The later LBZ & LMM are far superior in MANY ways.
Quadrasteer is VERY reliable, The same set-up was used in 1500 & 2500 pick-up's & is based on a Dana 60.
The ONLY pattern failure I ever seen with them is the rear steer motor position sensor getting water in it. Unfortunately this is becoming more & more frequent as the trucks age & the seals in the sensor shrink-up. And yes it IS discontinued by GM.
I would agree the prices are insane-if they're this expensive, even an old 1 ton SRW 6.2/4L80E 2WD (like the one in my sig with 154K) must be worth a chunk of change, still. It would be a lot easier to repair and keep on the road, too-in the last few years I replaced the water pump, harmonic balancer, and front seal & cover gasket on it-all the parts combined were under $200! These newer trucks are just too expensive to keep on the road, like the company's $4500 Transit torque converter replacement.
Thanks for all the responses.
Well, after a little checking, the Chevy 2500HD has been for sale about 3 weeks, so apparently it has something wrong or on the verge of going that way. A few more of those similarly configured and also local, that were more expensive, sold rather quickly. Based on that and responses here, I'll pass on it.
I test drove the GMC 1500 this afternoon. The Quadrasteer was non-functional, apparently due to a faulty dash switch. Even if the system is inoperable, the "2WS" is supposed to be illuminated, which it was not. Then, as I drove it, a howling / /roaring noise was coming from somewhere in the front, and I could feel it slightly through the steering wheel. I couldn't tell if it was wheel bearings, front differential, or transfer case, or all of those together. It changed pitch as speed changed, so it was a rotational something or other. Based on what I heard and felt, I'll pass on this one too.
Well, after a little checking, the Chevy 2500HD has been for sale about 3 weeks, so apparently it has something wrong or on the verge of going that way. A few more of those similarly configured and also local, that were more expensive, sold rather quickly. Based on that and responses here, I'll pass on it.
I test drove the GMC 1500 this afternoon. The Quadrasteer was non-functional, apparently due to a faulty dash switch. Even if the system is inoperable, the "2WS" is supposed to be illuminated, which it was not. Then, as I drove it, a howling / /roaring noise was coming from somewhere in the front, and I could feel it slightly through the steering wheel. I couldn't tell if it was wheel bearings, front differential, or transfer case, or all of those together. It changed pitch as speed changed, so it was a rotational something or other. Based on what I heard and felt, I'll pass on this one too.
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
15 YO 200K trucks really go for that kind of money?
Seems like a lot for even a rust free Alabama truck.
I've seen a few articles online that stated used car prices are on the rise again, and no one is sure why.
I guess not everyone is taking advantage of 72 month loans on new cars--the used car market is alive and well.
15 YO 200K trucks really go for that kind of money?
Seems like a lot for even a rust free Alabama truck.
I've seen a few articles online that stated used car prices are on the rise again, and no one is sure why.
I guess not everyone is taking advantage of 72 month loans on new cars--the used car market is alive and well.
2003 models in the rear view mirror now. Found a 2009 GMC Sierra 1500 Z71 that was a trade-in at a local dealership. Has the 315HP 5.3L Flex fuel engine. It drives more like a car than a truck, compared to my last experience. Working the deal this afternoon, if they'll give a little credit on trading in one of my son's college car, a beater 2003 Nissan Sentra SE-R that I have been driving back and forth to work. The "boss" said I had to get rid of a few "ugly lawn ornaments", and this will solve part of that.
Congratulations!
You do know it has AFM/Cylinder Deactivation that can be problematic to a otherwise really good engine? Keep an eye on oil consumption!
You do know it has AFM/Cylinder Deactivation that can be problematic to a otherwise really good engine? Keep an eye on oil consumption!
Having used a 3/4 ton truck for the exact kind of applications that the OP is intending, I would recommend getting a half ton instead.
If you need to haul a 2 ton load of gravel in the bed, or tow a 10K trailer you need the 3/4 ton truck. Otherwise, it ain't worth it.
If you need to haul a 2 ton load of gravel in the bed, or tow a 10K trailer you need the 3/4 ton truck. Otherwise, it ain't worth it.
Been driving the truck for a few days, to get used to its characteristics. The cruise control wasn't working when I bought it, but a quick Google search identified the brake light switch as the likely culprit. Got one at AZ (they were the only ones in town having one in stock) and changed it this morning in about 20-30 minutes. Sure enough and thankfully, cruise works now, I got the dealer to print out copies of any work they did when it was traded in; replaced a window switch, evap control valve, console lid. They also did a 4-wheel alignment, rotated tires, and changed the oil and filter; Motorcraft stuff, but 5W20 oil. I think they only put in 5 quarts, because it was down a quart this morning, and was changed less than 100 miles ago. I added a quart of 10W30; this truck is supposed to use 5W30, so now I have a hybrid weight going. It has a button that I can toggle to see real time mileage, and watch it change with the AFM for V8 to V4. Unlike Honda's VCM debacle with the Accord, I think GM's AFM varies cylinders instead of deactivating the same ones over and over. In another thread, I described the cylinder misfire and minor engine rebuild issue we had with my parent's Accord; I am putting a VCM Tuner on it this weekend.
Originally Posted by Auae85
I think GM's AFM varies cylinders instead of deactivating the same ones over and over.
Incorrect, Cylinders 1,4,6,7 are the only cylinders that have deactivation hardware.
I think GM's AFM varies cylinders instead of deactivating the same ones over and over.
Incorrect, Cylinders 1,4,6,7 are the only cylinders that have deactivation hardware.
Originally Posted by Chris142
The Duramax is a maintenance night mare. The cost to replace the water pump can be over $1k. Injectors plus labor can be $8k. You can replace the water pump and spark plugs easily on the gas engine.
Remember that in 2003, we were running LSD in most of the nation. California led the way in 2006 with ULSD. I would not be surprised if injector failure coincided with the move to ULSD. I suggest doping the fuel with a lubricity additive every tank. Opti-Lube, FPPF, Allied, Schaeffer, FP-60, Stanadyne all make fuel adds that provide lubricity, keep injectors happy, and increase cetane.
A couple of diesel shops market an upgraded water pump for the 2003. IMO, at 219k, that's a maintenance item on a light duty diesel.
The Duramax is a maintenance night mare. The cost to replace the water pump can be over $1k. Injectors plus labor can be $8k. You can replace the water pump and spark plugs easily on the gas engine.
Remember that in 2003, we were running LSD in most of the nation. California led the way in 2006 with ULSD. I would not be surprised if injector failure coincided with the move to ULSD. I suggest doping the fuel with a lubricity additive every tank. Opti-Lube, FPPF, Allied, Schaeffer, FP-60, Stanadyne all make fuel adds that provide lubricity, keep injectors happy, and increase cetane.
A couple of diesel shops market an upgraded water pump for the 2003. IMO, at 219k, that's a maintenance item on a light duty diesel.
Originally Posted by beanoil
Originally Posted by Chris142
The Duramax is a maintenance night mare. The cost to replace the water pump can be over $1k. Injectors plus labor can be $8k. You can replace the water pump and spark plugs easily on the gas engine.
Remember that in 2003, we were running LSD in most of the nation. California led the way in 2006 with ULSD. I would not be surprised if injector failure coincided with the move to ULSD. I suggest doping the fuel with a lubricity additive every tank. Opti-Lube, FPPF, Allied, Schaeffer, FP-60, Stanadyne all make fuel adds that provide lubricity, keep injectors happy, and increase cetane.
A couple of diesel shops market an upgraded water pump for the 2003. IMO, at 219k, that's a maintenance item on a light duty diesel.
Unfortunately, LB7 Injectors started failing (Cracked bodies) a few months after the first one's were sold......I did my first set in December 2000.
Ball Seat Erosion manifested a little later on but was still well before ULSD.
GM extended LB7 Injector warranty to 7 years 200,000 miles, I never saw any claim denied while I was a dealer tech. Doesn't matter now though.
Chris142 doesn't care for GM products, That's fine......But pulling prices out of thin air isn't cool! I have NEVER seen a invoice over $5,700 for all 8 injectors, Labor & incidentals.
I do them for right around $5,000 & includes 8 NEW Injectors, Adjust Valve Clearance, 8 NEW Branch Lines, New Valve Cover bolts, Return Line Seals, Fuel Filter, & a Oil Change.
Originally Posted by Chris142
The Duramax is a maintenance night mare. The cost to replace the water pump can be over $1k. Injectors plus labor can be $8k. You can replace the water pump and spark plugs easily on the gas engine.
Remember that in 2003, we were running LSD in most of the nation. California led the way in 2006 with ULSD. I would not be surprised if injector failure coincided with the move to ULSD. I suggest doping the fuel with a lubricity additive every tank. Opti-Lube, FPPF, Allied, Schaeffer, FP-60, Stanadyne all make fuel adds that provide lubricity, keep injectors happy, and increase cetane.
A couple of diesel shops market an upgraded water pump for the 2003. IMO, at 219k, that's a maintenance item on a light duty diesel.
Unfortunately, LB7 Injectors started failing (Cracked bodies) a few months after the first one's were sold......I did my first set in December 2000.
Ball Seat Erosion manifested a little later on but was still well before ULSD.
GM extended LB7 Injector warranty to 7 years 200,000 miles, I never saw any claim denied while I was a dealer tech. Doesn't matter now though.
Chris142 doesn't care for GM products, That's fine......But pulling prices out of thin air isn't cool! I have NEVER seen a invoice over $5,700 for all 8 injectors, Labor & incidentals.
I do them for right around $5,000 & includes 8 NEW Injectors, Adjust Valve Clearance, 8 NEW Branch Lines, New Valve Cover bolts, Return Line Seals, Fuel Filter, & a Oil Change.
Originally Posted by clinebarger
Originally Posted by beanoil
Originally Posted by Chris142
The Duramax is a maintenance night mare. The cost to replace the water pump can be over $1k. Injectors plus labor can be $8k. You can replace the water pump and spark plugs easily on the gas engine.
Remember that in 2003, we were running LSD in most of the nation. California led the way in 2006 with ULSD. I would not be surprised if injector failure coincided with the move to ULSD. I suggest doping the fuel with a lubricity additive every tank. Opti-Lube, FPPF, Allied, Schaeffer, FP-60, Stanadyne all make fuel adds that provide lubricity, keep injectors happy, and increase cetane.
A couple of diesel shops market an upgraded water pump for the 2003. IMO, at 219k, that's a maintenance item on a light duty diesel.
Unfortunately, LB7 Injectors started failing (Cracked bodies) a few months after the first one's were sold......I did my first set in December 2000.
Ball Seat Erosion manifested a little later on but was still well before ULSD.
GM extended LB7 Injector warranty to 7 years 200,000 miles, I never saw any claim denied while I was a dealer tech. Doesn't matter now though.
Chris142 doesn't care for GM products, That's fine......But pulling prices out of thin air isn't cool! I have NEVER seen a invoice over $5,700 for all 8 injectors, Labor & incidentals.
I do them for right around $5,000 & includes 8 NEW Injectors, Adjust Valve Clearance, 8 NEW Branch Lines, New Valve Cover bolts, Return Line Seals, Fuel Filter, & a Oil Change.
That's the price one of my customers said it all cost. Still $5700 for any " maintenance " work is unreal.
Originally Posted by beanoil
Originally Posted by Chris142
The Duramax is a maintenance night mare. The cost to replace the water pump can be over $1k. Injectors plus labor can be $8k. You can replace the water pump and spark plugs easily on the gas engine.
Remember that in 2003, we were running LSD in most of the nation. California led the way in 2006 with ULSD. I would not be surprised if injector failure coincided with the move to ULSD. I suggest doping the fuel with a lubricity additive every tank. Opti-Lube, FPPF, Allied, Schaeffer, FP-60, Stanadyne all make fuel adds that provide lubricity, keep injectors happy, and increase cetane.
A couple of diesel shops market an upgraded water pump for the 2003. IMO, at 219k, that's a maintenance item on a light duty diesel.
Unfortunately, LB7 Injectors started failing (Cracked bodies) a few months after the first one's were sold......I did my first set in December 2000.
Ball Seat Erosion manifested a little later on but was still well before ULSD.
GM extended LB7 Injector warranty to 7 years 200,000 miles, I never saw any claim denied while I was a dealer tech. Doesn't matter now though.
Chris142 doesn't care for GM products, That's fine......But pulling prices out of thin air isn't cool! I have NEVER seen a invoice over $5,700 for all 8 injectors, Labor & incidentals.
I do them for right around $5,000 & includes 8 NEW Injectors, Adjust Valve Clearance, 8 NEW Branch Lines, New Valve Cover bolts, Return Line Seals, Fuel Filter, & a Oil Change.
That's the price one of my customers said it all cost. Still $5700 for any " maintenance " work is unreal.
Originally Posted by Chris142
Originally Posted by clinebarger
Originally Posted by beanoil
Originally Posted by Chris142
The Duramax is a maintenance night mare. The cost to replace the water pump can be over $1k. Injectors plus labor can be $8k. You can replace the water pump and spark plugs easily on the gas engine.
Remember that in 2003, we were running LSD in most of the nation. California led the way in 2006 with ULSD. I would not be surprised if injector failure coincided with the move to ULSD. I suggest doping the fuel with a lubricity additive every tank. Opti-Lube, FPPF, Allied, Schaeffer, FP-60, Stanadyne all make fuel adds that provide lubricity, keep injectors happy, and increase cetane.
A couple of diesel shops market an upgraded water pump for the 2003. IMO, at 219k, that's a maintenance item on a light duty diesel.
Unfortunately, LB7 Injectors started failing (Cracked bodies) a few months after the first one's were sold......I did my first set in December 2000.
Ball Seat Erosion manifested a little later on but was still well before ULSD.
GM extended LB7 Injector warranty to 7 years 200,000 miles, I never saw any claim denied while I was a dealer tech. Doesn't matter now though.
Chris142 doesn't care for GM products, That's fine......But pulling prices out of thin air isn't cool! I have NEVER seen a invoice over $5,700 for all 8 injectors, Labor & incidentals.
I do them for right around $5,000 & includes 8 NEW Injectors, Adjust Valve Clearance, 8 NEW Branch Lines, New Valve Cover bolts, Return Line Seals, Fuel Filter, & a Oil Change.
That's the price one of my customers said it all cost. Still $5700 for any " maintenance " work is unreal.
I never argued that it was acceptable or advised anyone to buy a LB7 Duramax.
It seems your lumping every Duramax into a single category? The LBZ & LMM reliability.......ESPECIALLY the Injectors is outstanding! And they are the easiest injectors to replace of the Big-3 diesel trucks made since the last P7100 Cummins 12 Valve.
Originally Posted by clinebarger
Originally Posted by beanoil
Originally Posted by Chris142
The Duramax is a maintenance night mare. The cost to replace the water pump can be over $1k. Injectors plus labor can be $8k. You can replace the water pump and spark plugs easily on the gas engine.
Remember that in 2003, we were running LSD in most of the nation. California led the way in 2006 with ULSD. I would not be surprised if injector failure coincided with the move to ULSD. I suggest doping the fuel with a lubricity additive every tank. Opti-Lube, FPPF, Allied, Schaeffer, FP-60, Stanadyne all make fuel adds that provide lubricity, keep injectors happy, and increase cetane.
A couple of diesel shops market an upgraded water pump for the 2003. IMO, at 219k, that's a maintenance item on a light duty diesel.
Unfortunately, LB7 Injectors started failing (Cracked bodies) a few months after the first one's were sold......I did my first set in December 2000.
Ball Seat Erosion manifested a little later on but was still well before ULSD.
GM extended LB7 Injector warranty to 7 years 200,000 miles, I never saw any claim denied while I was a dealer tech. Doesn't matter now though.
Chris142 doesn't care for GM products, That's fine......But pulling prices out of thin air isn't cool! I have NEVER seen a invoice over $5,700 for all 8 injectors, Labor & incidentals.
I do them for right around $5,000 & includes 8 NEW Injectors, Adjust Valve Clearance, 8 NEW Branch Lines, New Valve Cover bolts, Return Line Seals, Fuel Filter, & a Oil Change.
That's the price one of my customers said it all cost. Still $5700 for any " maintenance " work is unreal.
I never argued that it was acceptable or advised anyone to buy a LB7 Duramax.
It seems your lumping every Duramax into a single category? The LBZ & LMM reliability.......ESPECIALLY the Injectors is outstanding! And they are the easiest injectors to replace of the Big-3 diesel trucks made since the last P7100 Cummins 12 Valve.
After putting the VCM Tuner on my parent's Accord, I thought about it and read up on the GM AFM system. Well, it looks like I'll be getting an AFM disabler, like the Range Technology unit, to prevent plug fouling / oil consumption / etc. that seems to be common characteristics with cylinder deactivation systems. I also read about getting the ECM re-flashed, and Diablo tuners, but the RT unit is a plug-and-play right out of the box.
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2024
Originally Posted by Auae85
After putting the VCM Tuner on my parent's Accord, I thought about it and read up on the GM AFM system. Well, it looks like I'll be getting an AFM disabler, like the Range Technology unit, to prevent plug fouling / oil consumption / etc. that seems to be common characteristics with cylinder deactivation systems. I also read about getting the ECM re-flashed, and Diablo tuners, but the RT unit is a plug-and-play right out of the box.
I have the Range Technology in the Caprice and it works well, but it is on all the time so if you are not driving it for more than 4 or 5 days pull it out of the OBDII port.
The AFM disabler will make it run on all 8 all the time, but it will most likely not prevent the removal of the mechanical portions and replacing it with non AFM stuff down the road. I know in 14 they changed the mechanical portion on the Caprice and they are not seeing the failures like they have on the 11 to 13.
After putting the VCM Tuner on my parent's Accord, I thought about it and read up on the GM AFM system. Well, it looks like I'll be getting an AFM disabler, like the Range Technology unit, to prevent plug fouling / oil consumption / etc. that seems to be common characteristics with cylinder deactivation systems. I also read about getting the ECM re-flashed, and Diablo tuners, but the RT unit is a plug-and-play right out of the box.
I have the Range Technology in the Caprice and it works well, but it is on all the time so if you are not driving it for more than 4 or 5 days pull it out of the OBDII port.
The AFM disabler will make it run on all 8 all the time, but it will most likely not prevent the removal of the mechanical portions and replacing it with non AFM stuff down the road. I know in 14 they changed the mechanical portion on the Caprice and they are not seeing the failures like they have on the 11 to 13.
Originally Posted by Auae85
After putting the VCM Tuner on my parent's Accord, I thought about it and read up on the GM AFM system. Well, it looks like I'll be getting an AFM disabler, like the Range Technology unit, to prevent plug fouling / oil consumption / etc. that seems to be common characteristics with cylinder deactivation systems. I also read about getting the ECM re-flashed, and Diablo tuners, but the RT unit is a plug-and-play right out of the box.
I would seriously consider HP-Tuners, It's light years ahead of other Flash Tuning devices for GM vehicles.....The exception being EFI-Live.
While it doesn't have pre-written "canned" tunes, It does allow FULL access to the PCM & TCM, Being able to turn trouble codes Off/On can save you A LOT more than the cost of the tool!
*Lets say your truck develops a VERY small EVAP leak......That chime & message to tighten the gas cap will drive you crazy. Turn "Off" the EVAP trouble codes & be done with it!
*Catalytic Converter drops below efficiency thresholds.....Turn off the converter efficiency codes!
*Speedo re-cal, Cooling Fan temp changes etc just like the Handheld devices.
Comes with a FULL function PCM/TCM Scan Tool & Graphing Data Logger along with Bi-Directional component controls.
*Reset the "Flex Fuel" alcohol content parameter.......This has been an issue since GM started using a "calculation algorithm" instead of an actual alcohol content sensor.
*Minimum airflow reset after throttle body cleaning.
If you need to Mechanically delete the AFM hardware in the future......The RT unit will be of NO use to you! You will have to pay someone with HP-Tuners/EFI-Live to disable the AFM in the PCM. Or buy tuning software, Now.....I'm assuming Diablo also does this?
The HP-Tuners MPVI-2 is relatively new, But it will save you $100 over the outgoing MPVI that I have.
*The Standard MPVI came pre-loaded with 8 credits & sold for $499.
*The new Standard MPVI-2 comes with NO credits & sells for $299.....You will need to purchase 2 credits for your truck at $50 a piece, Making the total around $400.
This absolutely sucks for us guys that tune a lot of vehicles.....We got $400 worth of credits & only had to pay $100 for the interface & software. For you guys that just need this for one vehicle, You save $100 & get a upgraded interface!
https://www.hptuners.com/product/mpvi2/
After putting the VCM Tuner on my parent's Accord, I thought about it and read up on the GM AFM system. Well, it looks like I'll be getting an AFM disabler, like the Range Technology unit, to prevent plug fouling / oil consumption / etc. that seems to be common characteristics with cylinder deactivation systems. I also read about getting the ECM re-flashed, and Diablo tuners, but the RT unit is a plug-and-play right out of the box.
I would seriously consider HP-Tuners, It's light years ahead of other Flash Tuning devices for GM vehicles.....The exception being EFI-Live.
While it doesn't have pre-written "canned" tunes, It does allow FULL access to the PCM & TCM, Being able to turn trouble codes Off/On can save you A LOT more than the cost of the tool!
*Lets say your truck develops a VERY small EVAP leak......That chime & message to tighten the gas cap will drive you crazy. Turn "Off" the EVAP trouble codes & be done with it!
*Catalytic Converter drops below efficiency thresholds.....Turn off the converter efficiency codes!
*Speedo re-cal, Cooling Fan temp changes etc just like the Handheld devices.
Comes with a FULL function PCM/TCM Scan Tool & Graphing Data Logger along with Bi-Directional component controls.
*Reset the "Flex Fuel" alcohol content parameter.......This has been an issue since GM started using a "calculation algorithm" instead of an actual alcohol content sensor.
*Minimum airflow reset after throttle body cleaning.
If you need to Mechanically delete the AFM hardware in the future......The RT unit will be of NO use to you! You will have to pay someone with HP-Tuners/EFI-Live to disable the AFM in the PCM. Or buy tuning software, Now.....I'm assuming Diablo also does this?
The HP-Tuners MPVI-2 is relatively new, But it will save you $100 over the outgoing MPVI that I have.
*The Standard MPVI came pre-loaded with 8 credits & sold for $499.
*The new Standard MPVI-2 comes with NO credits & sells for $299.....You will need to purchase 2 credits for your truck at $50 a piece, Making the total around $400.
This absolutely sucks for us guys that tune a lot of vehicles.....We got $400 worth of credits & only had to pay $100 for the interface & software. For you guys that just need this for one vehicle, You save $100 & get a upgraded interface!
https://www.hptuners.com/product/mpvi2/
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2024
Originally Posted by clinebarger
Originally Posted by Auae85
After putting the VCM Tuner on my parent's Accord, I thought about it and read up on the GM AFM system. Well, it looks like I'll be getting an AFM disabler, like the Range Technology unit, to prevent plug fouling / oil consumption / etc. that seems to be common characteristics with cylinder deactivation systems. I also read about getting the ECM re-flashed, and Diablo tuners, but the RT unit is a plug-and-play right out of the box.
I would seriously consider HP-Tuners, It's light years ahead of other Flash Tuning devices for GM vehicles.....The exception being EFI-Live.
While it doesn't have pre-written "canned" tunes, It does allow FULL access to the PCM & TCM, Being able to turn trouble codes Off/On can save you A LOT more than the cost of the tool!
*Lets say your truck develops a VERY small EVAP leak......That chime & message to tighten the gas cap will drive you crazy. Turn "Off" the EVAP trouble codes & be done with it!
*Catalytic Converter drops below efficiency thresholds.....Turn off the converter efficiency codes!
*Speedo re-cal, Cooling Fan temp changes etc just like the Handheld devices.
Comes with a FULL function PCM/TCM Scan Tool & Graphing Data Logger along with Bi-Directional component controls.
*Reset the "Flex Fuel" alcohol content parameter.......This has been an issue since GM started using a "calculation algorithm" instead of an actual alcohol content sensor.
*Minimum airflow reset after throttle body cleaning.
If you need to Mechanically delete the AFM hardware in the future......The RT unit will be of NO use to you! You will have to pay someone with HP-Tuners/EFI-Live to disable the AFM in the PCM. Or buy tuning software, Now.....I'm assuming Diablo also does this?
The HP-Tuners MPVI-2 is relatively new, But it will save you $100 over the outgoing MPVI that I have.
*The Standard MPVI came pre-loaded with 8 credits & sold for $499.
*The new Standard MPVI-2 comes with NO credits & sells for $299.....You will need to purchase 2 credits for your truck at $50 a piece, Making the total around $400.
This absolutely sucks for us guys that tune a lot of vehicles.....We got $400 worth of credits & only had to pay $100 for the interface & software. For you guys that just need this for one vehicle, You save $100 & get a upgraded interface!
https://www.hptuners.com/product/mpvi2/
I have HP Tuners and I love it. It was just simple to get the Range Technology if you don't want to mess with tuning. The Caprice still had warranty when I picked it up. When the I do the DOD delete I will tune it. Just have not gotten around to it.
Originally Posted by Auae85
After putting the VCM Tuner on my parent's Accord, I thought about it and read up on the GM AFM system. Well, it looks like I'll be getting an AFM disabler, like the Range Technology unit, to prevent plug fouling / oil consumption / etc. that seems to be common characteristics with cylinder deactivation systems. I also read about getting the ECM re-flashed, and Diablo tuners, but the RT unit is a plug-and-play right out of the box.
I would seriously consider HP-Tuners, It's light years ahead of other Flash Tuning devices for GM vehicles.....The exception being EFI-Live.
While it doesn't have pre-written "canned" tunes, It does allow FULL access to the PCM & TCM, Being able to turn trouble codes Off/On can save you A LOT more than the cost of the tool!
*Lets say your truck develops a VERY small EVAP leak......That chime & message to tighten the gas cap will drive you crazy. Turn "Off" the EVAP trouble codes & be done with it!
*Catalytic Converter drops below efficiency thresholds.....Turn off the converter efficiency codes!
*Speedo re-cal, Cooling Fan temp changes etc just like the Handheld devices.
Comes with a FULL function PCM/TCM Scan Tool & Graphing Data Logger along with Bi-Directional component controls.
*Reset the "Flex Fuel" alcohol content parameter.......This has been an issue since GM started using a "calculation algorithm" instead of an actual alcohol content sensor.
*Minimum airflow reset after throttle body cleaning.
If you need to Mechanically delete the AFM hardware in the future......The RT unit will be of NO use to you! You will have to pay someone with HP-Tuners/EFI-Live to disable the AFM in the PCM. Or buy tuning software, Now.....I'm assuming Diablo also does this?
The HP-Tuners MPVI-2 is relatively new, But it will save you $100 over the outgoing MPVI that I have.
*The Standard MPVI came pre-loaded with 8 credits & sold for $499.
*The new Standard MPVI-2 comes with NO credits & sells for $299.....You will need to purchase 2 credits for your truck at $50 a piece, Making the total around $400.
This absolutely sucks for us guys that tune a lot of vehicles.....We got $400 worth of credits & only had to pay $100 for the interface & software. For you guys that just need this for one vehicle, You save $100 & get a upgraded interface!
https://www.hptuners.com/product/mpvi2/
I have HP Tuners and I love it. It was just simple to get the Range Technology if you don't want to mess with tuning. The Caprice still had warranty when I picked it up. When the I do the DOD delete I will tune it. Just have not gotten around to it.
I'm almost certain to buy the Range Technology unit at this point, because I bought the truck to have as a second vehicle, with semi-regular use. I don't plan on many, if any, modifications to it. I prefer dependability and longevity. I see on a few truck forums that the RT units seem to have decent resale values, if I use it for a while and decide to change to another system.
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