2003 Civic EX with 225,000 miles Burning Oil

[Andya26]

Hey all, I am driving a 2003 Civic EX with 225,000 miles on it and I am currently burning about 3/4 of a quart every 1500 miles. I have been using 5W-30 full synthetic for my last three oil changes. I have used Mobil 1 HM, Castrol, and Quaker State. My question is what can I do to slow down the oil burning? Is 0W-40 the next step or is there an additive I can use? Obviously the engine is old and there is something that needs to be replaced but at this point the cost of that repair isn't reasonable, so I just need something to slow the burn down. Whatcha got?

 

[RooflessVW]

Take it to a conventional 10W-30 or 40 and save yourself some money.

A quart in 2000 miles isn't too extreme.

 

[mx5miata]

Give this a try

https://lucasoil.com/products/engine-oil-additives/high-mileage-oil-stabilizer

 

[WyrTwister]

Check / replace the PCV valve , if you can get to it . May or may not help .

In my youth , 1 quart every 1000 miles was not good , but it was not terrible . If you checked oil regurally , and topped it off , you usually just kept on driving .

This was typical on American V-8's around 100,000 miles .

Dad drove a company truck that had the Chevy 235 ci 6 cylinder . They were VERY busy & could not take the time to put it in the shop for re-build .

It was burning so much oil , it was fouling out the plugs .

 

[ZZman]

try a product called engine restore.

 

[Andya26]

Conventional was also a thought I had. I may try that.

What is everyone's overall thoughts on oil additives? I know I have read some very negative perspectives about them on this board.

My father-in-law has had a little success with the Lucas Oil Treatment in terms of stopping leaks, does it have any poor effects on your engine?

 

[BrocLuno]

The Lucas will prolly not help. But freeing the rings might... It's a 4 banger right? So full can of BG109 in the crankcase and pull the plugs. Big shot of Break-Free gun solvent in each cylinder. Re-install plugs and let it sit overnight. Fire it up and drive it 100 miles, change the oil.

It's getting warmer where you live, so no freezing nights to worry about. Use Delo 400 15W-40 and drive on. The engine is loose enough at that age that the thicker oil will not hurt a thing.

Change the PCV and make sure it's timed to the max (occasional ping up hill) and you are as good as goinna get

 

[Chris142]

Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
Take it to a conventional 10W-30 or 40 and save yourself some money.

A quart in 2000 miles isn't too extreme.
This!

 

[Andya26]

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
The Lucas will prolly not help. But freeing the rings might... It's a 4 banger right? So full can of BG109 in the crankcase and pull the plugs. Big shot of Break-Free gun solvent in each cylinder. Re-install plugs and let it sit overnight. Fire it up and drive it 100 miles, change the oil.

It's getting warmer where you live, so no freezing nights to worry about. Use Delo 400 15W-40 and drive on. The engine is loose enough at that age that the thicker oil will not hurt a thing.

Change the PCV and make sure it's timed to the max (occasional ping up hill) and you are as good as goinna get

Is this the bg109 you are referring to? https://www.amazon.com/Bg109-Engine-Perf...;keywords=bg109

And this the break free? https://www.amazon.com/Break-Free-Cleane...ree+gun+solvent

 

[CharBaby]

Originally Posted By: ZZman
try a product called engine restore.


First and foremost, check your PCV as stated earlier.

DO NOT use RESTORE!...it's only a band-aid at best.

If you're blowing oil past the piston rings, the RESTORE will eventually plug your catalytic converter$$$. Switch to a bit heavier oil and go back to using regular/conventional oil as they tend to burn or slip past the rings less.

Also, if you need something thinner in the MN winters, then switch to a syn and maybe a 0W30 or again the 5W30 syn. 1/qt every ~2000 miles is not bad. Stay with the modern SN/GF-5 and newer oils as there is less ZINC to pollute the cat.

Good Luck,

CB

 

[Andya26]

Originally Posted By: Char Baby
Originally Posted By: ZZman
try a product called engine restore.


DO NOT use RESTORE! If you're blowing oil past the rings, it's eventually plug your catalytic converter. Switch to a bit heavier oil and go back to using regular oil and not synthetic.

And as stated, check your PCV.

Good Luck,

CB



Agreed, I have heard horror stories about restore.

 

[CT8]

How has the engine been maintained before the previous 3 oil changes?

 

[Andya26]

Originally Posted By: CT8
How has the engine been maintained before the previous 3 oil changes?


Not sure, bought it with 196,000 on it. I mean it does run very well, so I am assuming it has been maintained reasonably well.

 

[Andya26]

So, the plan I have formulated is....

1) Execute the BG109/Break Free concoction

2) Change oil and PCV valve with conventional 10W-40 Quaker State (cheapest on Amazon)

3) See what happens

Any objections to this plan? Speak now or forever hold your peace.

 

[CharBaby]

Originally Posted By: Andya26
Originally Posted By: CT8
How has the engine been maintained before the previous 3 oil changes?


Not sure, bought it with 196,000 on it. I mean it does run very well, so I am assuming it has been maintained reasonably well.


I am curious if the engine was using/burning oil pervious to the 3 synthetic oil changes?

I have heard of, and have experienced engines with synthetic losing/using more than with regular oil especially late in the engine life such as yours. Personally, I'd just check the PCV and go back to regular 5W30 oil. The 5W or 10W isn't going to matter as the lower # is just the cold startup wgt.

5W30 regular/conventional(a.k.a. dino) is my go to oil and is already a syn/blend as compared to a 10W30 conventional(dino) oil which is not.

 

[Andya26]

Originally Posted By: Char Baby
Originally Posted By: Andya26
Originally Posted By: CT8
How has the engine been maintained before the previous 3 oil changes?


Not sure, bought it with 196,000 on it. I mean it does run very well, so I am assuming it has been maintained reasonably well.


I think that CT8 is curious(as am I) if the engine was burning oil pervious to the 3 synthetic oil changes?

I have heard of, and have experienced engines with synthetic losing/using more than with regular oil especially late in the engine life such as yours. Personally, I'd just check the PCV and go back to regular 5W30 oil. The 5W or 10W isn't going to matter as the lower # is just the cold startup wgt.

5W30 dino is my go to oil.


Good to know.

It had standard 5W-30 conventional oil from the dealership when I purchased it. Obviously that doesn't tell us much about the history though.

For what it's worth, I have noticed this oil burning issue getting worse as I have owned the car. I drive it back and forth to work, which is about 100 miles a day. So I notice the oil level dropping fairly quickly. This is also the main reason I have used synthetic oil, so I don't have to change it every six weeks.

 

[JeffKeryk]

I would run a good high mileage 10w30 and see what happens.
I would use (at least) Semi synthetic like MaxLife. Good stuff.

Also, check for leaks, just in case.
Good luck.

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: Chris142
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
Take it to a conventional 10W-30 or 40 and save yourself some money.

A quart in 2000 miles isn't too extreme.
This!



I'm on-board with this too.

 

[WobblyElvis]

Is the engine wet and dirty with oil? If the valve cover gasket is leaking on the forward side of the engine, it can leak quite a bit and not drip on the ground.

 

[Andya26]

Originally Posted By: WobblyElvis
Is the engine wet and dirty with oil? If the valve cover gasket is leaking on the forward side of the engine, it can leak quite a bit and not drip on the ground.


It is not, I actually changed this gasket not long ago.