2003 Civic EX with 225,000 miles Burning Oil

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If the piston rings are stuck, you will get a lot of blow-by. Air will blow out of the oil filler hole while running with the cap removed. Also the oil filter accumulates black carbon/dirt in the pleats of the media, that is another indication of stuck/worn piston rings. If this is the case, a piston soak may free up the rings.
 
Originally Posted By: WobblyElvis
If the piston rings are stuck, you will get a lot of blow-by. Air will blow out of the oil filler hole while running with the cap removed. Also the oil filter accumulates black carbon/dirt in the pleats of the media, that is another indication of stuck/worn piston rings. If this is the case, a piston soak may free up the rings.


Describe a piston soak...
 
Originally Posted By: Andya26
Originally Posted By: WobblyElvis
If the piston rings are stuck, you will get a lot of blow-by. Air will blow out of the oil filler hole while running with the cap removed. Also the oil filter accumulates black carbon/dirt in the pleats of the media, that is another indication of stuck/worn piston rings. If this is the case, a piston soak may free up the rings.


Describe a piston soak...



Go back to BrocLuno’s comment.
 
I personally would use 10w-30 Maxlife in 3-5k intervals with a fair amount of spirited driving to potentially free the rings. I’ve had luck with maxlife.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
Take it to a conventional 10W-30 or 40 and save yourself some money.

A quart in 2000 miles isn't too extreme.
This!


+2, I would not sweat about it.
 
Originally Posted By: JeffKeryk
I would run a good high mileage 10w30 and see what happens.
I would use (at least) Semi synthetic like MaxLife. Good stuff.

Also, check for leaks, just in case.
Good luck.


I was wondering about that , too . Maybe a leak when the car is warmed up and oil under pressure . Not when engine is off & sitting in your driveway / garage .

Some of the folks have mentioned oil going past the rings . Possible . Do not think anyone has mentioned oil going past the valve seals . Both can be checked with a Wet / Dry compression test .

Any evidence of oil leaking past the front or rear seals ? Valve covers ?

But , again , check or replave the PCV valve .
 
Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
Take it to a conventional 10W-30 or 40 and save yourself some money.

A quart in 2000 miles isn't too extreme.
This!



I'm on-board with this too.


Yep . A quart of oil is not that expensive . And simpler / cheaper than chaseing grimlins on a high mileage car . Unless you discover a cheap fix / repair .
 
Check the PCV valve before you do anything. Unless you’re somewhat mechanically inclined, I would steer clear of doing any soaks. Your oil consumption isn’t bad, but could be made worse, say, if you partially hydro lock a cylinder...

Also, switch to the cheapest API-rated oil you can find. It’s a 1.7L engine in a Civic. As long as you have oil in there, it’s fine. Because of this, I wouldn’t assume previous maintenance was done well; these engines can take some abuse.

//

What’s the history of the timing belt, water pump, coolant and everything else that should also be checked on suck an old vehicle?
 
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
Check the PCV valve before you do anything. Unless you’re somewhat mechanically inclined, I would steer clear of doing any soaks. Your oil consumption isn’t bad, but could be made worse, say, if you partially hydro lock a cylinder...

Also, switch to the cheapest API-rated oil you can find. It’s a 1.7L engine in a Civic. As long as you have oil in there, it’s fine. Because of this, I wouldn’t assume previous maintenance was done well; these engines can take some abuse.

//

What’s the history of the timing belt, water pump, coolant and everything else that should also be checked on suck an old vehicle?



I already have the PCV valve on the way and have been considering doing this for a while.

I am going to switch to a 10W-30 conventional dino oil.

I am somewhat mechanically inclined, but I am going to skip the soak for now. I will see what the oil and PCV does and if it gets worse, then I will explore.

Any objections to putting BG109 or Seafoam in the oil roughly 100 miles prior to this oil change? Will that be too risky in any way?
 
I guess you can try any number of chemicals for a piston soak. If that doesn't work, just drive the car and keep an eye on the oil level as you have been. These Civic's will run a looooooonge way before the die. Use good but inexpensive oil and buy oil on sale/rebate/discontinued/closeout...in true bobistheoilguy fashion.
 
Since your not apposed to M1 I would try M1 10w30HM. It's an ACEA A3/B3 oil where M1 5w30HM is an ACEA A5/B5 oil. A totally different animal.

Yes on the PCV.
 
Keep in mind that these Civic's have V-Tec engines that do in fact require a thinner oil than a 40 wgt. If a 40 wgt is allowed in the OM fine but IIRC they require 5W20 from when new. Just an FYI!
 
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
Keep in mind that these Civic's have V-Tec engines that do in fact require a thinner oil than a 40 wgt. If a 40 wgt is allowed in the OM fine but IIRC they require 5W20 from when new. Just an FYI!


Not true. VTEC works just fine with whatever oil. Plenty of people run 20w-50 in their vtec hondas at our local dirt track.
 
Originally Posted By: ka9mnx
Since your not apposed to M1 I would try M1 10w30HM. It's an ACEA A3/B3 oil where M1 5w30HM is an ACEA A5/B5 oil. A totally different animal.

Yes on the PCV.


Arent those European ratings? Would you explain the difference AND as to why changing the 5w to a 10w is a big deal? Thanks, I dont run M1 but am interested in those ratings and how/why such a small change in viscosity spread denotes the oils as so different.


Thag Honda, well, my Saturn was having 3000 miles per quart, which was excellent. I just poured in a pint every weekend while I was driving 1500 miles per week for my work. Well, I must have been borex or couldnt leave well enough alone and did some of the stuff mentioned in this thread. Consumption went to double immediately (a quart a week/1500miles). Soon came a stretched timing chain which was probably not related, but in the end when I sold it with over 290k, it was burning, IIRC, a quart every 700 miles.

Sooooooooo...... You have to add a quart once a month????
 
Originally Posted By: Bxnanaz
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
Keep in mind that these Civic's have V-Tec engines that do in fact require a thinner oil than a 40 wgt. If a 40 wgt is allowed in the OM fine but IIRC they require 5W20 from when new. Just an FYI!


Not true. VTEC works just fine with whatever oil. Plenty of people run 20w-50 in their vtec hondas at our local dirt track.


OK! ^^^

But, if this engine is truly burning oil after checking the PCV check/replacement and/or a piston soak, then I don't think that 20W50 is the answer either and will probable burn as well.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
Originally Posted By: Bxnanaz
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
Keep in mind that these Civic's have V-Tec engines that do in fact require a thinner oil than a 40 wgt. If a 40 wgt is allowed in the OM fine but IIRC they require 5W20 from when new. Just an FYI!


Not true. VTEC works just fine with whatever oil. Plenty of people run 20w-50 in their vtec hondas at our local dirt track.


OK! ^^^

But, if this engine is truly burning oil after checking the PCV check/replacement and/or a piston soak, then I don't think that 20W50 is the answer either and will probable burn as well.

I didn’t say 20w-50 was the answer. You said vtec needs thinner than a 40wt to run, which I corrected.
 
Sorry for the delay. Been putting valve cover gaskets on the 4Runner...

API specs are derived from the u.s. oil industries. ILSAC specs come from manufacturers like Ford the the Japanese makers. ACEA specs come from the European auto makers.

What I find most interesting is the openness of the ACEA to the public. You can find the specs on ILSAC oils but forget API. Scroll down the ACEA pdf and compare the differences in the categories. I feel the ACEA oils are better because I think the specs are tougher to pass. But I could be wrong.

Goggle ACEA oil specs but here is a start:

http://www.acea.be/uploads/news_documents/ACEA_European_oil_sequences_2016.pdf
 
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