2001 Civic LX spark plug change - 65K miles

[y_p_w]

So I got a set of 4 NGK PZFR6F-11 "Laser Platinum" plugs for my wife's 2001 Civic LX. It was some 10% off special at Pep Boys if I ordered online and spent at least $50. I actually prefer Denso, but few shops carry them and NGK is the next best thing. Besides that, the only Denso plugs I can find for this application are the PKJ20CR-L11 (listed in Denso's application guide), when the OM specs the PKJ20CR-M11. The M supposedly means a larger ground electrode. I recently found my old tools, including an old Craftsman 6" locking extension bar, and a Husky beam-style torque wrench.

I know the manual specs a change at 110K miles, but I'm just itching to do something, and this seems like something I can handle without my wife yelling at me for destroying her car or taking too much time. It's also over 10 years old, although I understand often platinum plugs can last well beyond the spec'ed change interval. I looked at some DIY video for similar plugs, and it seems almost like I remember with my old Integras except for direct ignition coils and no plug wires. I did a dry run removing the cap nuts on the coils. There's a cover on the top that I think I can take off with a quarter on those plastic screws.

Anything tricky about this one? It looks pretty simple. Remove the cover, pull off the connectors, and then remove the cap nuts to extract the ignition coils. I'm thinking of maybe taking a vacuum cleaner to the tubes and examining them for anything loose/broken in there. I know NGK says no anti-seize with the metal plated body. In the past I would check platinum plugs after a while to see how they were doing. And one the washer is crushed, I'd use a torque wrench. I'm thinking of crushing it first, backing up, and re-tightening with my torque wrench.

I'm guessing new coils would probably be a waste.

I haven't messed around with the plugs on my WRX. I paid someone to do it since I didn't want to mess with taking apart everything on a boxer, although I'm thinking I was overcharged for it.

 

[PandaBear]

Just be careful not to over tighten it when putting it back, if it is a new plug you can just follow how much to tighten if you do not have a torque wrench.

Also at 10 year, it may bind if you have never removed it. I personally would just break it a little and inspect / put back in as platnium plugs aren't cheap, but it is also fine to just replace it too.

 

[andrewp1998]

Its an easy change if you have the right wrench,, I replaced the originals with iridiums at 100,000 then I had them done at 151k and they looked as bad as the OEMs ! There is another one called the V type and its supposed to be better? I think the originals were platinums. Have the valves checked as well. Mine were check twice , once at 100k and then at 151k and they are fine..

 

[SwampSurvivor]

I changed my first set of aluminum head spark plugs a few months ago. It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be!

I used anti-seize on the threads. My understanding is that you want to tighten them barely any tighter than finger tight. That's what I did.

 

[y_p_w]

Originally Posted By: PandaBear
Just be careful not to over tighten it when putting it back, if it is a new plug you can just follow how much to tighten if you do not have a torque wrench.

Also at 10 year, it may bind if you have never removed it. I personally would just break it a little and inspect / put back in as platnium plugs aren't cheap, but it is also fine to just replace it too.


Like I said - I'm just aching to do it and the plugs are already a sunk cost.

I know new plugs can be finger tight and then 2/3 turn while the gasket is crushed. However, it seems a bit imprecise and I've got torque wrenches. I'll probably check again next year, as I understand with extended life plugs it's a good idea to periodically break loose the threads to keep them from sticking.

 

[mclasser]

I think you're right to change out the plugs due to the age of the car. It's a very simple job and you really shouldn't encounter problems.

I replaced the factory NGK plugs in my 02 Accord at 166k miles. The night before, I shot some PB Blaster down into the spark plug holes and let it sit overnight. The plugs came out easy-peasy the next morning and looked remarkable for their age/mileage. NGKs have a coating on them so no anti-seize is needed. You have a torque wrench so you're golden (I'm terrible at "feeling the torque" by hand so my torque wrench is my buddy). Even if the box says the plugs are pre-gapped, check/adjust them anyway.

 

[y_p_w]

Originally Posted By: andrewp1998
Its an easy change if you have the right wrench,, I replaced the originals with iridiums at 100,000 then I had them done at 151k and they looked as bad as the OEMs ! There is another one called the V type and its supposed to be better? I think the originals were platinums. Have the valves checked as well. Mine were check twice , once at 100k and then at 151k and they are fine..

Sounds like you're referring to the standard "V-power" plugs. NGK has a V-shaped notch in the center electrode. Denso takes an opposite approach with the "U-Groove" ground electrode. NGK does have a V-Power plug in their application guide for my wife's Civic - ZFR6F-11:

I think they can be used, but at shorter intervals than the OEM platinum or aftermarket iridium. This is the OEM PZFR6F-11 plug. You can't really see that there's another spot of platinum fused to the ground electrode.

I mentioned Denso's U-Groove:

Both the V-Power and U-Groove designs have been around for decades. Also - they aren't like Splitfire, which charged a steep premium for something that doesn't really cost much to add or even do much.

 

[y_p_w]

So anyone know if they're likely to be factory NGK or Denso? The factory plugs on my '89 Integra and '95 Integra GS-R were Denso (actually Nippondenso back in '89).

I guess I can do it tonight and report back.

 

[ThirdeYe]

We just had the plugs changed in our '01 Civic as well. It only had 55,000 miles on the car, but they didn't charge us any extra for it as it was part of the 105k service when we replaced the timing belt. I was going to just do it myself, but figured it would save me some time/money. I didn't know these used platinum plugs. I figured they used NGK V-Powers like in my Integra. I use a torque wrench as you don't want to over-tighten them. It's nice to see another low-mileage '01 Civic! I love the way they look and drive.

 

[y_p_w]

Originally Posted By: ThirdeYe
We just had the plugs changed in our '01 Civic as well. It only had 55,000 miles on the car, but they didn't charge us any extra for it as it was part of the 105k service when we replaced the timing belt. I was going to just do it myself, but figured it would save me some time/money. I didn't know these used platinum plugs. I figured they used NGK V-Powers like in my Integra. I use a torque wrench as you don't want to over-tighten them. It's nice to see another low-mileage '01 Civic! I love the way they look and drive.

Long life plugs are pretty standard these days and even for the past decade or so. It used to be only installed at the factor for high performance cars and V engines where it may be hard to reach.

The oddest thing I've heard of was a Toyota V6 where the plugs were likely installed at different times. One side was OEM NGK plugs and the other side was OEM Denso plugs. Apparently this is pretty common going back years.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/11682-3-ngk-3-denso-plugs-factory.html

 

[PandaBear]

It is possible that they buy different plugs from different OEM based on pricing and availability. If the plugs meet OEM spec they should perform good enough and match with each other, so one brand on one bank is going to be OK.

 

[y_p_w]

Originally Posted By: PandaBear
It is possible that they buy different plugs from different OEM based on pricing and availability. If the plugs meet OEM spec they should perform good enough and match with each other, so one brand on one bank is going to be OK.

I hear from some who insist that NGK is better and from others that Denso is better. I like Denso when I can find it because it's usually priced better. The only issue I had was that they didn't seem to sell the factory platinums (mine were ND) for my '95 Integra GS-R gapped to 1.3mm. The had the same exact part number except gapped to 1.1mm. I remember getting these and regapping them against the recommendations of the OM. Later a shop mistakenly installed a set when I didn't ask for them (I got them free as a result) and the work order said that they got these plugs and regapped them. I actually had a long call with Denso customer service and they claimed they would get me the right plugs, and that after I got them all I needed to do was return my old plugs to an authorized dealer. I never got any plugs, but somehow I received a Denso Spark Plugs trucker cap.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

A plug is a plug is a plug - that's the way I see it.

 

[Mykl]

Originally Posted By: y_p_w
I haven't messed around with the plugs on my WRX. I paid someone to do it since I didn't want to mess with taking apart everything on a boxer, although I'm thinking I was overcharged for it.


Plug change on an Impreza is easier than it looks. Just remove the air box and battery and you have good access to everything.

 

[Tosh]

If it ain't broke don't fix it.

 

[zzyzzx]

I would be tempted to pull one of the plugs and check the gap, but unless it's worn or needs regapping, that's all I would do.

 

[JamesBond]

I replaced the plugs in my '04 EX with some $3 Denso single platinums from AA. The COPs seal pretty well so there was no dirt in the coil tubes. Watch a video on youtube for this exact car. It took me about 20 minutes.

Just take off the cover, un-clip the coils take off the nuts and pull them out, then change the plugs. I used anti-seize on the threads and some coil boot grease on the rubber boot. They weren't in really tight, and I didn't put them back in real tight, no torque wrench used.

 

[y_p_w]

Finally got around to it when the engine was cold. Only needed a coin and a quarter turn of both connectors to remove the cover. I found that it was easier to remove the electrical connector by pulling each coil out partially, since there was little room to get my fingers in with the coils bolted down. Of course I was afraid to strip the threads if the plugs were seized, but it actually came out pretty easily.

All four plug gaps were still within spec, but the contacts all looked "fuzzy". They all had brown crud on the ceramic body, but NGK says this is normal from burning a small amount of oil vapor over the years. I think I could have put them back in, but since I'd already bought new plugs I installed the new ones. I flattened the washers first, backed up, and torqued them to spec (13 ft-lbs) with my beam torque wrench.

It seemed to run smoother, but that may just have been wishful thinking.

 

[y_p_w]

Oh - the factory plugs on the Civic were NGK platinums - part # PZFR6F-11. They weren't exactly like the new ones I installed. The nut portion of the threaded base was stamped "ASSEMBLED IN U.S.A. FROM JAPANESE PARTS". The printing on the ceramic looked a little bit different.