moto94536 - I dont think its worth switching to synthetic for you because first off, you have a 2006 camry and so far has had no problems with prone engine sludging. My engine from what have read is prone to engine sludge because of a fualt in design on the pcv valve witch they made to small for emissions. Just type in toyota sludge on google and 10,000 links come up on the subject. So I will be switching to pennz platinum & I bought it today at walmart for $21 & change. For the price of platinum, you just cant beat it. You have 183000k miles with no problems, I would just keep with what your doing and you will be on your way to 300000k miles.
2001 Camry LE 2.2 liter Pennzoil Platinum
- Thread starter revelation9985
- Start date
- Status
I also found an article today on google that toyota has come out offcially and has a list of engines that are pron to engine sludge. Toyota also said that if your engine is on the list they recommend you use SYNTHETIC oil in those effected engines. Below is the toyota engines that are prone to engine sludge.
List of Toyota vehicles with affected engines 3.0 L 1MZ V6
August 1996-July 2001 Toyota Camry
June 1998-May 2001 Toyota Camry Solara
July 1997-May 2001 Toyota Sienna
July 1996-May 2001 Toyota Avalon
November 2000-July 2001 Toyota Highlander
August 1998-July 2001 Lexus ES300
.
January 1998-July 2001 Lexus RX300
1996-2001 Toyota
List of Toyota vehicles with affected engines 5SFE I4
August 1996-July 2001 Toyota Camry
June 1998-May 2001 Toyota Camry Solara
August 1996-April 1999 Toyota Celica
1998 Toyota Corolla
List of Toyota vehicles with affected engines 3.0 L 1MZ V6
August 1996-July 2001 Toyota Camry
June 1998-May 2001 Toyota Camry Solara
July 1997-May 2001 Toyota Sienna
July 1996-May 2001 Toyota Avalon
November 2000-July 2001 Toyota Highlander
August 1998-July 2001 Lexus ES300
.
January 1998-July 2001 Lexus RX300
1996-2001 Toyota
List of Toyota vehicles with affected engines 5SFE I4
August 1996-July 2001 Toyota Camry
June 1998-May 2001 Toyota Camry Solara
August 1996-April 1999 Toyota Celica
1998 Toyota Corolla
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: moto94536
I don't know if synthetic is worth using in my camry.
High Mileage oil changed cost $35 @ walmart
Synthetic oil changed cost $55 @ walmart
my best was 33.5 mpg using castrol gtx hm.
I will probably do my oil changed at 9,000 miles. I never put synthetic oil in my car. conventional all the time..
any recommend switching to synthetic? will it leak? 183,000 miles..
183,000 miles PROVES what you have been doing WORKS.
Why change?
Known sludger = frequent OCIS in my book with ANY oil. Syn does not get rid of the byproducts that NEED to be removed.
JMO, Bill
Well I will change to pennz platinum like someone said, it cant hurt. Toyota has come out and stated to use synthetic in the prone engines that sludge. What about gold varnish I see under the oil cap? Not a good sign? I was told by a poster not to worry about it.
Originally Posted By: moto94536
I don't know if synthetic is worth using in my camry.
High Mileage oil changed cost $35 @ walmart
Synthetic oil changed cost $55 @ walmart
my best was 33.5 mpg using castrol gtx hm.
I will probably do my oil changed at 9,000 miles. I never put synthetic oil in my car. conventional all the time..
any recommend switching to synthetic? will it leak? 183,000 miles..
183,000 miles PROVES what you have been doing WORKS.
Why change?
Known sludger = frequent OCIS in my book with ANY oil. Syn does not get rid of the byproducts that NEED to be removed.
JMO, Bill
Well I will change to pennz platinum like someone said, it cant hurt. Toyota has come out and stated to use synthetic in the prone engines that sludge. What about gold varnish I see under the oil cap? Not a good sign? I was told by a poster not to worry about it.
Originally Posted By: revelation9985
Well I will change to pennz platinum like someone said, it cant hurt. Toyota has come out and stated to use synthetic in the prone engines that sludge. What about gold varnish I see under the oil cap? Not a good sign? I was told by a poster not to worry about it.
Please post the TSB (or whatever you have) that shows Toyota STATING that if you have a sludge prone engine that you USE syn oil in the engine.
Could it hurt to use PP in your engine? Nope. Gold varnish is not a problem and people that use syn have it in their engines too. So it does NOT hurt.
But its your $20 difference. $35 vs $55 EACH oil change.
My point is for others who read this thread the difference from NEED vs want. You WANT to run it so go for it.
It also can not hurt to change your oil every 2,000 miles.
Bill
Well I will change to pennz platinum like someone said, it cant hurt. Toyota has come out and stated to use synthetic in the prone engines that sludge. What about gold varnish I see under the oil cap? Not a good sign? I was told by a poster not to worry about it.
Please post the TSB (or whatever you have) that shows Toyota STATING that if you have a sludge prone engine that you USE syn oil in the engine.
Could it hurt to use PP in your engine? Nope. Gold varnish is not a problem and people that use syn have it in their engines too. So it does NOT hurt.
But its your $20 difference. $35 vs $55 EACH oil change.
My point is for others who read this thread the difference from NEED vs want. You WANT to run it so go for it.
It also can not hurt to change your oil every 2,000 miles.
Bill
Known sludger = frequent OCIS in my book with ANY oil. Syn does not get rid of the byproducts that NEED to be removed.
JMO, Bill [/quote]
Bill... can you explain why the 2003 Focus I bought that had regular conventional oil changes (see my last post)and was full of sludge....but after my change to a SYN and two short OCI's...all the sludge was essentially gone?
My last change was at 7,500...and the oil was almost as clear as when I put in in (no more sludge).
IMO, this proves, at least to me, that synthetic is a superior sludge and engine cleaner.
______________________________________
2003 Ford Focus SE (2.3L) / 86,500K
Current Oil: Mobil 1 5w30EP / OCI: 1 year or 10,000K
Filter: Purolator PureOne
JMO, Bill [/quote]
Bill... can you explain why the 2003 Focus I bought that had regular conventional oil changes (see my last post)and was full of sludge....but after my change to a SYN and two short OCI's...all the sludge was essentially gone?
My last change was at 7,500...and the oil was almost as clear as when I put in in (no more sludge).
IMO, this proves, at least to me, that synthetic is a superior sludge and engine cleaner.
______________________________________
2003 Ford Focus SE (2.3L) / 86,500K
Current Oil: Mobil 1 5w30EP / OCI: 1 year or 10,000K
Filter: Purolator PureOne
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Oregoonian
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Known sludger = frequent OCIS in my book with ANY oil. Syn does not get rid of the byproducts that NEED to be removed.
JMO, Bill
Bill... can you explain why the 2003 Focus I bought that had regular conventional oil changes (see my last post)and was full of sludge....but after my change to a SYN and two short OCI's...all the sludge was essentially gone?
My last change was at 7,500...and the oil was almost as clear as when I put in in (no more sludge).
IMO, this proves, at least to me, that synthetic is a superior sludge and engine cleaner.
Okay a few things to learn.
1. Byproducts are from combustion and need to be drained.
2. Color means NOTHING when discussing oil.
So you took off the valve covers and pan and saw the sludge both before and after? How have you decided that it was full of sludge?
What is the total history (actual) of oil changes from day one with this vehicle when you bought it new? What oil(s) did you use? How about other maintenance?
How do you explain my changing oil every 5-8k with my Corolla with all sorts of oil and no sludge? And I've repeated this with many vehicles? MY 394k Jetta has seen nothing but SG/SH/SJ/SL 10w-30 and towards the end 5w-30 all the time and never a issue with varnish or sludge?
So if you run conventional oil you will have sludge?
Bill
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Known sludger = frequent OCIS in my book with ANY oil. Syn does not get rid of the byproducts that NEED to be removed.
JMO, Bill
Bill... can you explain why the 2003 Focus I bought that had regular conventional oil changes (see my last post)and was full of sludge....but after my change to a SYN and two short OCI's...all the sludge was essentially gone?
My last change was at 7,500...and the oil was almost as clear as when I put in in (no more sludge).
IMO, this proves, at least to me, that synthetic is a superior sludge and engine cleaner.
Okay a few things to learn.
1. Byproducts are from combustion and need to be drained.
2. Color means NOTHING when discussing oil.
So you took off the valve covers and pan and saw the sludge both before and after? How have you decided that it was full of sludge?
What is the total history (actual) of oil changes from day one with this vehicle when you bought it new? What oil(s) did you use? How about other maintenance?
How do you explain my changing oil every 5-8k with my Corolla with all sorts of oil and no sludge? And I've repeated this with many vehicles? MY 394k Jetta has seen nothing but SG/SH/SJ/SL 10w-30 and towards the end 5w-30 all the time and never a issue with varnish or sludge?
So if you run conventional oil you will have sludge?
Bill
If you change your oil every 5,000 miles or less and use dino then you'll be ok. If you use platinum then you'll get some extra cleaning.
We have the same engine and i've used dino oil for most of its life and have a pretty clean(non-sludged) engine for its age.
We have the same engine and i've used dino oil for most of its life and have a pretty clean(non-sludged) engine for its age.
History...had regular conventional oil changes every 4 to 5K...until I bought it.
Valve covers: Yes...checked both before and after....and now its clean.
Question: What was it that caused my SYN oil change to be black after 1000K....and be black at 4500K on my 2nd SYN oil change?
And now...after 7500 (3rd chg)...the oil is close to clear?
Yes, IMO, if you run conventional, especially with longer OCI's, the chances are greater that you'll devolop sludge issues...while with a SYN...you won't.
But thanks for the education.......
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: Oregoonian
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Known sludger = frequent OCIS in my book with ANY oil. Syn does not get rid of the byproducts that NEED to be removed.
JMO, Bill
Bill... can you explain why the 2003 Focus I bought that had regular conventional oil changes (see my last post)and was full of sludge....but after my change to a SYN and two short OCI's...all the sludge was essentially gone?
My last change was at 7,500...and the oil was almost as clear as when I put in in (no more sludge).
IMO, this proves, at least to me, that synthetic is a superior sludge and engine cleaner.
Okay a few things to learn.
1. Byproducts are from combustion and need to be drained.
2. Color means NOTHING when discussing oil.
So you took off the valve covers and pan and saw the sludge both before and after? How have you decided that it was full of sludge?
What is the total history (actual) of oil changes from day one with this vehicle when you bought it new? What oil(s) did you use? How about other maintenance?
How do you explain my changing oil every 5-8k with my Corolla with all sorts of oil and no sludge? And I've repeated this with many vehicles? MY 394k Jetta has seen nothing but SG/SH/SJ/SL 10w-30 and towards the end 5w-30 all the time and never a issue with varnish or sludge?
So if you run conventional oil you will have sludge?
Bill
Valve covers: Yes...checked both before and after....and now its clean.
Question: What was it that caused my SYN oil change to be black after 1000K....and be black at 4500K on my 2nd SYN oil change?
And now...after 7500 (3rd chg)...the oil is close to clear?
Yes, IMO, if you run conventional, especially with longer OCI's, the chances are greater that you'll devolop sludge issues...while with a SYN...you won't.
But thanks for the education.......
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: Oregoonian
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Known sludger = frequent OCIS in my book with ANY oil. Syn does not get rid of the byproducts that NEED to be removed.
JMO, Bill
Bill... can you explain why the 2003 Focus I bought that had regular conventional oil changes (see my last post)and was full of sludge....but after my change to a SYN and two short OCI's...all the sludge was essentially gone?
My last change was at 7,500...and the oil was almost as clear as when I put in in (no more sludge).
IMO, this proves, at least to me, that synthetic is a superior sludge and engine cleaner.
Okay a few things to learn.
1. Byproducts are from combustion and need to be drained.
2. Color means NOTHING when discussing oil.
So you took off the valve covers and pan and saw the sludge both before and after? How have you decided that it was full of sludge?
What is the total history (actual) of oil changes from day one with this vehicle when you bought it new? What oil(s) did you use? How about other maintenance?
How do you explain my changing oil every 5-8k with my Corolla with all sorts of oil and no sludge? And I've repeated this with many vehicles? MY 394k Jetta has seen nothing but SG/SH/SJ/SL 10w-30 and towards the end 5w-30 all the time and never a issue with varnish or sludge?
So if you run conventional oil you will have sludge?
Bill
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: revelation9985
Well I will change to pennz platinum like someone said, it cant hurt. Toyota has come out and stated to use synthetic in the prone engines that sludge. What about gold varnish I see under the oil cap? Not a good sign? I was told by a poster not to worry about it.
Please post the TSB (or whatever you have) that shows Toyota STATING that if you have a sludge prone engine that you USE syn oil in the engine.
Could it hurt to use PP in your engine? Nope. Gold varnish is not a problem and people that use syn have it in their engines too. So it does NOT hurt.
But its your $20 difference. $35 vs $55 EACH oil change.
My point is for others who read this thread the difference from NEED vs want. You WANT to run it so go for it.
It also can not hurt to change your oil every 2,000 miles.
Bill
Bill. Give me a day or two or more to come up with the article. I just searched for 30min. just now but cant find it. It's the 4th of july & cant spend more time on it now at this moment. I have no reason to lie or make up stories. Just concerned about my vehicle & the longevity of it. I will find the article. I found it last night at about 1am in the morning, Im a nut/fanatic about this stuff as Im a motor head. If this is just a fualt in toyota design though, no oil I believe can fix the problem. I believe the synthetic can only help the situation of course and not hurt it. Proud to say the platinum is in my camry today with a napa gold filter! Now going back out to drain mustang & fill with platinum as well. I will keep an eye on the gold varnish and I hope it goes away over time. Note the mustang V8 has no gold varnish from what I can see and ran flawless with the pennz yellow bottle soon to have platinum.
Originally Posted By: revelation9985
Well I will change to pennz platinum like someone said, it cant hurt. Toyota has come out and stated to use synthetic in the prone engines that sludge. What about gold varnish I see under the oil cap? Not a good sign? I was told by a poster not to worry about it.
Please post the TSB (or whatever you have) that shows Toyota STATING that if you have a sludge prone engine that you USE syn oil in the engine.
Could it hurt to use PP in your engine? Nope. Gold varnish is not a problem and people that use syn have it in their engines too. So it does NOT hurt.
But its your $20 difference. $35 vs $55 EACH oil change.
My point is for others who read this thread the difference from NEED vs want. You WANT to run it so go for it.
It also can not hurt to change your oil every 2,000 miles.
Bill
Bill. Give me a day or two or more to come up with the article. I just searched for 30min. just now but cant find it. It's the 4th of july & cant spend more time on it now at this moment. I have no reason to lie or make up stories. Just concerned about my vehicle & the longevity of it. I will find the article. I found it last night at about 1am in the morning, Im a nut/fanatic about this stuff as Im a motor head. If this is just a fualt in toyota design though, no oil I believe can fix the problem. I believe the synthetic can only help the situation of course and not hurt it. Proud to say the platinum is in my camry today with a napa gold filter! Now going back out to drain mustang & fill with platinum as well. I will keep an eye on the gold varnish and I hope it goes away over time. Note the mustang V8 has no gold varnish from what I can see and ran flawless with the pennz yellow bottle soon to have platinum.
hey revelation, those 2.2 5SFEs are pretty decent engines. The S block has been around forever. From working on the sludgers, I've concluded that the crankcase ventilation is very poor, and this causes a great deal of vapour buildup in the head, which cannot escape and will re condense into carbon deposits. This process will continue until the carbon buildup is great and cooked. Also moisture is trapped in with this mess and begins to gel up the carbon condensate. You can correct this issue with great success and continue to use decent quality petroleum oils like any other engine.
The procedure is really simple: locate the breather hose that comes off the coilpack side of the engine and runs into the rubber intake hose. Joining the vent hose and the intake hose is a creme coloured double male coupling, one side sticks into the breather hose, the other side into the intake hose. That creme coloured coupling is the problem. It appears to the unwitting that it's just a straight shot passage, the continuous inner diameter of the hose right through, but in fact there is a restrictor orifice- very tiny, inside of the creme coloured plastic coupler! This basically prevents any crankcase ventilation from blowby gasses, condensate and volatile vapour. The solution is simply to ream the coupler out to the original diameter. Ventilation is restored and the engine's performance is unaffected. I strongly suggest that procedure, it can save you a lot of headaches!
The procedure is really simple: locate the breather hose that comes off the coilpack side of the engine and runs into the rubber intake hose. Joining the vent hose and the intake hose is a creme coloured double male coupling, one side sticks into the breather hose, the other side into the intake hose. That creme coloured coupling is the problem. It appears to the unwitting that it's just a straight shot passage, the continuous inner diameter of the hose right through, but in fact there is a restrictor orifice- very tiny, inside of the creme coloured plastic coupler! This basically prevents any crankcase ventilation from blowby gasses, condensate and volatile vapour. The solution is simply to ream the coupler out to the original diameter. Ventilation is restored and the engine's performance is unaffected. I strongly suggest that procedure, it can save you a lot of headaches!
Remember, ultra is $28 compared to platinum which is $20. $8 bucks more?? what are you getting that is so great and more significant over the platinum? I dont see it. I need to see it in proven tests that ultra is that much better then platinum for the extra $8 bucks. I could care less that a road course/racing Ferrari uses ultra as they say thay do. Pennz is just trying to sell product of course when they use Ferrari's name, who knows the truth behind it. I sell Ferrari/Maserati auto parts for a living. To me its some what hype. Not saying pennz is not a great oil it is, but dont go over board. I have now today switched both of my vehicles, most important the camry over to pennz platinum. Pennz is most popular in america mostly because its cheap at a good price to purchase. Again though, I trust and use it, and believe its a fine motor oil that won't disappoint from my experiences.
Originally Posted By: revelation9985
Bill. Give me a day or two or more to come up with the article. I just searched for 30min. just now but cant find it. It's the 4th of july & cant spend more time on it now at this moment. I have no reason to lie or make up stories. Just concerned about my vehicle & the longevity of it.
That is my major concern, making engines last a long time. For decades I've taken many an engine well past 200k before I sell it to a friend/family and then watch it go even longer with no problems. So I walk what I talk.
I'm not concerned that you are telling stories, But I'm very interested in this stuff also and have NEVER seen Toyota state to run syn oil in any sludger. So that is why I'd love to see the TSB from Toyota.
I'm going to be putting on another 1,000 miles on the Subaru in the next few days (after almost 6,000 miles last month) so I'll be back late Thursday/Friday.
Take care, bill
Bill. Give me a day or two or more to come up with the article. I just searched for 30min. just now but cant find it. It's the 4th of july & cant spend more time on it now at this moment. I have no reason to lie or make up stories. Just concerned about my vehicle & the longevity of it.
That is my major concern, making engines last a long time. For decades I've taken many an engine well past 200k before I sell it to a friend/family and then watch it go even longer with no problems. So I walk what I talk.
I'm not concerned that you are telling stories, But I'm very interested in this stuff also and have NEVER seen Toyota state to run syn oil in any sludger. So that is why I'd love to see the TSB from Toyota.
I'm going to be putting on another 1,000 miles on the Subaru in the next few days (after almost 6,000 miles last month) so I'll be back late Thursday/Friday.
Take care, bill
Originally Posted By: Oregoonian
My last change was at 7,500...and the oil was almost as clear as when I put in in (no more sludge).
IMO, this proves, at least to me, that synthetic is a superior sludge and engine cleaner.
My last change was at 7,500...and the oil was almost as clear as when I put in in (no more sludge).
IMO, this proves, at least to me, that synthetic is a superior sludge and engine cleaner.
Originally Posted By: Oregoonian
History...had regular conventional oil changes every 4 to 5K...until I bought it.
Sorry to interject, but how was this history verified? Lots of people claim to have maintained their vehicles properly when selling them, but things turn out differently when one actually checks things out.
Oil being black is irrelevant. In the Ford 4.9L I had rebuilt over winter, I ran mostly Delvac 1300 15w-40 for short OCIs to clean it. It's a conventional. The oil was black after every oil change, including the last one before the rebuild. The engine was spotless inside.
History...had regular conventional oil changes every 4 to 5K...until I bought it.
Sorry to interject, but how was this history verified? Lots of people claim to have maintained their vehicles properly when selling them, but things turn out differently when one actually checks things out.
Oil being black is irrelevant. In the Ford 4.9L I had rebuilt over winter, I ran mostly Delvac 1300 15w-40 for short OCIs to clean it. It's a conventional. The oil was black after every oil change, including the last one before the rebuild. The engine was spotless inside.
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: revelation9985
Bill. Give me a day or two or more to come up with the article. I just searched for 30min. just now but cant find it. It's the 4th of july & cant spend more time on it now at this moment. I have no reason to lie or make up stories. Just concerned about my vehicle & the longevity of it.
That is my major concern, making engines last a long time. For decades I've taken many an engine well past 200k before I sell it to a friend/family and then watch it go even longer with no problems. So I walk what I talk.
I'm not concerned that you are telling stories, But I'm very interested in this stuff also and have NEVER seen Toyota state to run syn oil in any sludger. So that is why I'd love to see the TSB from Toyota.
I'm going to be putting on another 1,000 miles on the Subaru in the next few days (after almost 6,000 miles last month) so I'll be back late Thursday/Friday.
Take care, bill
Bill, I just spent one more Hr. trying to find this article. To be frank, I'm more then [censored] I can't find it for U at this moment.I will do my best in finding it. If I don't find it for you disregard it. I know what read though. U do know that toyota has indeed listed engines that are prone to sludging right?? I will search over this week for it. If I cant list the article here on bonistheoilguy then forget it, but be aware of the problem.
Originally Posted By: revelation9985
Bill. Give me a day or two or more to come up with the article. I just searched for 30min. just now but cant find it. It's the 4th of july & cant spend more time on it now at this moment. I have no reason to lie or make up stories. Just concerned about my vehicle & the longevity of it.
That is my major concern, making engines last a long time. For decades I've taken many an engine well past 200k before I sell it to a friend/family and then watch it go even longer with no problems. So I walk what I talk.
I'm not concerned that you are telling stories, But I'm very interested in this stuff also and have NEVER seen Toyota state to run syn oil in any sludger. So that is why I'd love to see the TSB from Toyota.
I'm going to be putting on another 1,000 miles on the Subaru in the next few days (after almost 6,000 miles last month) so I'll be back late Thursday/Friday.
Take care, bill
Bill, I just spent one more Hr. trying to find this article. To be frank, I'm more then [censored] I can't find it for U at this moment.I will do my best in finding it. If I don't find it for you disregard it. I know what read though. U do know that toyota has indeed listed engines that are prone to sludging right?? I will search over this week for it. If I cant list the article here on bonistheoilguy then forget it, but be aware of the problem.
Originally Posted By: ItsuMitsubishi
hey revelation, those 2.2 5SFEs are pretty decent engines. The S block has been around forever. From working on the sludgers, I've concluded that the crankcase ventilation is very poor, and this causes a great deal of vapour buildup in the head, which cannot escape and will re condense into carbon deposits. This process will continue until the carbon buildup is great and cooked. Also moisture is trapped in with this mess and begins to gel up the carbon condensate. You can correct this issue with great success and continue to use decent quality petroleum oils like any other engine.
The procedure is really simple: locate the breather hose that comes off the coilpack side of the engine and runs into the rubber intake hose. Joining the vent hose and the intake hose is a creme coloured double male coupling, one side sticks into the breather hose, the other side into the intake hose. That creme coloured coupling is the problem. It appears to the unwitting that it's just a straight shot passage, the continuous inner diameter of the hose right through, but in fact there is a restrictor orifice- very tiny, inside of the creme coloured plastic coupler! This basically prevents any crankcase ventilation from blowby gasses, condensate and volatile vapour. The solution is simply to ream the coupler out to the original diameter. Ventilation is restored and the engine's performance is unaffected. I strongly suggest that procedure, it can save you a lot of headaches!
Great post. I will look into this asap. This is great information that makes sense, as well as great information. Thanks. Right along the lines of what I have been reading from other mechanics. Great job in correcting the problem. I will look into to this asap.
hey revelation, those 2.2 5SFEs are pretty decent engines. The S block has been around forever. From working on the sludgers, I've concluded that the crankcase ventilation is very poor, and this causes a great deal of vapour buildup in the head, which cannot escape and will re condense into carbon deposits. This process will continue until the carbon buildup is great and cooked. Also moisture is trapped in with this mess and begins to gel up the carbon condensate. You can correct this issue with great success and continue to use decent quality petroleum oils like any other engine.
The procedure is really simple: locate the breather hose that comes off the coilpack side of the engine and runs into the rubber intake hose. Joining the vent hose and the intake hose is a creme coloured double male coupling, one side sticks into the breather hose, the other side into the intake hose. That creme coloured coupling is the problem. It appears to the unwitting that it's just a straight shot passage, the continuous inner diameter of the hose right through, but in fact there is a restrictor orifice- very tiny, inside of the creme coloured plastic coupler! This basically prevents any crankcase ventilation from blowby gasses, condensate and volatile vapour. The solution is simply to ream the coupler out to the original diameter. Ventilation is restored and the engine's performance is unaffected. I strongly suggest that procedure, it can save you a lot of headaches!
Great post. I will look into this asap. This is great information that makes sense, as well as great information. Thanks. Right along the lines of what I have been reading from other mechanics. Great job in correcting the problem. I will look into to this asap.
Originally Posted By: chet2
revelation, my in laws car is a 99 camry with 4 cyl...i think ultra is worth the extra $$$ over platinum but i am not going to use it all the time
I dont't believe it is yet. My own local auto parts store decided not to carry the new ultra becuase they did not think it was worth it. I'm using platinum now. Have to see the evidence that ultra is so great. Platinum is fine for my applications from what I have read from responses here and everywhere else.
revelation, my in laws car is a 99 camry with 4 cyl...i think ultra is worth the extra $$$ over platinum but i am not going to use it all the time
I dont't believe it is yet. My own local auto parts store decided not to carry the new ultra becuase they did not think it was worth it. I'm using platinum now. Have to see the evidence that ultra is so great. Platinum is fine for my applications from what I have read from responses here and everywhere else.
Originally Posted By: revelation9985
Bill, I just spent one more Hr. trying to find this article. To be frank, I'm more then [censored] I can't find it for U at this moment.I will do my best in finding it. If I don't find it for you disregard it. I know what read though. U do know that toyota has indeed listed engines that are prone to sludging right?? I will search over this week for it. If I cant list the article here on bonistheoilguy then forget it, but be aware of the problem.
I am FULLY aware of the letter that Toyota sent out identifying the engines and the models of the "sludge" engines. They ALSO stated in that letter to FOLLOW the RECOMMENDED OCI stated in the manual. Nothing about syn oil.
Most people operate in severe service and in the manual that OCI was 3,000 miles. The normal service was 7,500. In 2005 it went to 5,000 miles no matter what service you do with conventional oil.
Most people (like the member here who bought a Focus with "5k ocis which were more likely 7,500) don't follow the manual. Many of the vehicles brought into Toyota had 20 some odd thousand with the FACTORY FITLER STILL ON! They swore up and down that they changed their oil every 7,500 miles. Toyota still took care of them.
Don't worry about it. I've been here many years and seen a lot between the site and in real life. But hey, what do we know. We have members who have just shown up and they know it all.
Originally Posted By: Mustang Man
Originally Posted By: Oregoonian
My last change was at 7,500...and the oil was almost as clear as when I put in in (no more sludge).
IMO, this proves, at least to me, that synthetic is a superior sludge and engine cleaner.
Speaking of...
Still have not spent much time reading through the board and learned anything?
Bill
Bill, I just spent one more Hr. trying to find this article. To be frank, I'm more then [censored] I can't find it for U at this moment.I will do my best in finding it. If I don't find it for you disregard it. I know what read though. U do know that toyota has indeed listed engines that are prone to sludging right?? I will search over this week for it. If I cant list the article here on bonistheoilguy then forget it, but be aware of the problem.
I am FULLY aware of the letter that Toyota sent out identifying the engines and the models of the "sludge" engines. They ALSO stated in that letter to FOLLOW the RECOMMENDED OCI stated in the manual. Nothing about syn oil.
Most people operate in severe service and in the manual that OCI was 3,000 miles. The normal service was 7,500. In 2005 it went to 5,000 miles no matter what service you do with conventional oil.
Most people (like the member here who bought a Focus with "5k ocis which were more likely 7,500) don't follow the manual. Many of the vehicles brought into Toyota had 20 some odd thousand with the FACTORY FITLER STILL ON! They swore up and down that they changed their oil every 7,500 miles. Toyota still took care of them.
Don't worry about it. I've been here many years and seen a lot between the site and in real life. But hey, what do we know. We have members who have just shown up and they know it all.
Originally Posted By: Mustang Man
Originally Posted By: Oregoonian
My last change was at 7,500...and the oil was almost as clear as when I put in in (no more sludge).
IMO, this proves, at least to me, that synthetic is a superior sludge and engine cleaner.
Speaking of...
Still have not spent much time reading through the board and learned anything?
Bill
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: Mustang Man
Originally Posted By: Oregoonian
My last change was at 7,500...and the oil was almost as clear as when I put in in (no more sludge).
IMO, this proves, at least to me, that synthetic is a superior sludge and engine cleaner.
Speaking of...
Still have not spent much time reading through the board and learned anything?
Bill
Nothing new to learn. Dino is not nearly as good as synthetic. This is why synthetic is made; it's better. You don't really hear too much if anything about synthetic causing sludge/varnish unless it has been ran WAY too long. Of course that is dino's problem as well except it cannot go as long as synthetic. So, in a nutshell, use synthetic, change it every 7500-10,000 miles or 1 year (whichever comes first), use an OEM or Wix/Purolator oil filter, and be happy.
Originally Posted By: Mustang Man
Originally Posted By: Oregoonian
My last change was at 7,500...and the oil was almost as clear as when I put in in (no more sludge).
IMO, this proves, at least to me, that synthetic is a superior sludge and engine cleaner.
Speaking of...
Still have not spent much time reading through the board and learned anything?
Bill
Nothing new to learn. Dino is not nearly as good as synthetic. This is why synthetic is made; it's better. You don't really hear too much if anything about synthetic causing sludge/varnish unless it has been ran WAY too long. Of course that is dino's problem as well except it cannot go as long as synthetic. So, in a nutshell, use synthetic, change it every 7500-10,000 miles or 1 year (whichever comes first), use an OEM or Wix/Purolator oil filter, and be happy.
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