I think my father-in-law's thermostat is stuck open. Which coolant should I use when replacing this to top everything off? It's probably never been changed (the coolant) so I'll most likely drain and fill a couple times.
2000 Volvo C70 possible thermstat/Which coolant?
- Thread starter Chris Meutsch
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If you are topping up, I would just bite the bullet and get a gallon on the Volvo stuff. (Not big on mixing).
But, you say you are going to "drain and fill a couple times." In non-freezing climate, I would run straight water for an hour or so. Drain and flush again, then fill it with top of the line EG/PG coolant of your choice. Prestone is OK.
But, you say you are going to "drain and fill a couple times." In non-freezing climate, I would run straight water for an hour or so. Drain and flush again, then fill it with top of the line EG/PG coolant of your choice. Prestone is OK.
Do you know what type of bit is needed to remove the two bolts holding the pipe there?
I'm pretty sure older Volvo cars needed G-05 coolant, you can buy that at some auto parts stores.
That "Universal Long Life" coolant from some companies might be a good choice too.
That "Universal Long Life" coolant from some companies might be a good choice too.
I'm going to use Peak Global Lifetime if required.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Really, who knows what is in there now. Likely a shop-grade Dexclone. I'd start fresh with G-05, isn't that what Ford uses in Euro cars?
Originally Posted By: Chris Meutsch
Do you know what type of bit is needed to remove the two bolts holding the pipe there?
I replaced the 'stat on a 1998 S70 (that failed after only 4.5 years btw). I used a torx bit (looks like an asterisk, right?) but I don't recall the size.
If I were you I'd just buy one of those cheap torx bit sets and you'll be good to go on torx forever
Edit: 5 bucks says that the actual bracket on the stat is broken...that is what happened to mine. In the early days of my automotive awareness I realized that the car never seemed to get warmed up. Everybody said "oh, it's nothing" but I was right. So proud.
Do you know what type of bit is needed to remove the two bolts holding the pipe there?
I replaced the 'stat on a 1998 S70 (that failed after only 4.5 years btw). I used a torx bit (looks like an asterisk, right?) but I don't recall the size.
If I were you I'd just buy one of those cheap torx bit sets and you'll be good to go on torx forever
Edit: 5 bucks says that the actual bracket on the stat is broken...that is what happened to mine. In the early days of my automotive awareness I realized that the car never seemed to get warmed up. Everybody said "oh, it's nothing" but I was right. So proud.
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We got it opened yesterday, sort of. If I would have completely removed the upper thermostat housing, it would have gushed coolant all over the alternator and timing belt. It was coming up from the bottom, not down from the top/hose. It wouldn't let up either. Plus the car was at the in-laws and my ramps were at home, so I couldn't drive it up and drain some from the radiator to alleviate the flow. So we didn't change the thermostat. Bunk. He'll have to take it to his shop for the quick drain and fix.
Originally Posted By: Chris Meutsch
We got it opened yesterday, sort of. If I would have completely removed the upper thermostat housing, it would have gushed coolant all over the alternator and timing belt. It was coming up from the bottom, not down from the top/hose. It wouldn't let up either. Plus the car was at the in-laws and my ramps were at home, so I couldn't drive it up and drain some from the radiator to alleviate the flow. So we didn't change the thermostat. Bunk. He'll have to take it to his shop for the quick drain and fix.
Sounds like one of my typical repair jobs (the gushing, that is)...
We got it opened yesterday, sort of. If I would have completely removed the upper thermostat housing, it would have gushed coolant all over the alternator and timing belt. It was coming up from the bottom, not down from the top/hose. It wouldn't let up either. Plus the car was at the in-laws and my ramps were at home, so I couldn't drive it up and drain some from the radiator to alleviate the flow. So we didn't change the thermostat. Bunk. He'll have to take it to his shop for the quick drain and fix.
Sounds like one of my typical repair jobs (the gushing, that is)...
I used the pink VW/Audi G12 after I flushed the coolant on my volvo. From what I have learned it offers very good protection for Al heads, head gaskets, water pump, etc.
I have also used the mercedes coolant (G05) in that past. Many have said to avoid the green prestone like the plague. F.e. http://www.thesaabsite.com/Coolantinfo.htm
I used to have to change water pumps in saabs around every 60-75k until I switched to the G05. I have never had to change one since using G05 or G12 (knock on wood ha ha).
As others have said, use regular Volvo stuff if that was there before and you are topping up. Don't mix coolant types as they can gel. A good flush is wise if you haven't done it in the last 2 years and this removes all the old coolant from the system. You can then fill with G05, G12, or whatever you think is best.
I have also used the mercedes coolant (G05) in that past. Many have said to avoid the green prestone like the plague. F.e. http://www.thesaabsite.com/Coolantinfo.htm
I used to have to change water pumps in saabs around every 60-75k until I switched to the G05. I have never had to change one since using G05 or G12 (knock on wood ha ha).
As others have said, use regular Volvo stuff if that was there before and you are topping up. Don't mix coolant types as they can gel. A good flush is wise if you haven't done it in the last 2 years and this removes all the old coolant from the system. You can then fill with G05, G12, or whatever you think is best.
The Volvo coolant is G-48. IIRC, it is equivalent to the old VW G11 and the VW G12 is a dexcool clone.
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The only coolants that are not "compatible" (according to a chart I had at one time) are high silicated Olde Prestone with anything else. That is, everything else mixes. That is partly why I assumed G-11 was high silicate, but supposedly it's not.
The G-48 does contain silicates, but I would not call it a high-silicate formula like the old green. It is very similar to a G-05 coolant, which as you pointed out is what Zerex recommends as a replacement.
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