2000 Silverado AT Drain Plug - kinda rounded

[JeffKeryk]

Hi All - Earlier today I offered to help our landscaper spill-and-fill the trans in his new-to-him Silverado.
15mm drain plug... Using a 6 point Snap-On 3/8 socket, we could not hold the ratchet head enough to break torque.

The plug's head is shallow by design, so it fits flush in the pan detent.
So, do I break out the impact or perhaps an extractor?

He will be back next Sunday and I will put it in the garage on jack stands instead of 2 wheels on the curb...

Thanks for your guidance.
If an extractor makes sense, are the HF cheapies an option?

 

[Tomioka]

Use an impact lined up to your chest, push hard and give it quick bursts till it gets loose. You don't want to round off of whats left of the head. Not sure about the extractor, I used an Irwin set and was able to remove the bolt.

 

[spasm3]

I changed my pan as that drain plug sucks and will get stuck again. There are some decent steel pans with a better drain plug on amazon or rock auto.

 

[JamesBond]

Since it's not your vehicle and you don't want to be stuck fixing it if it goes south, I might just use a fluid extractor or the cheap orange fluid transfer pump from HF.

 

[tomcat27]

Ditto on the extractor

 

[cpayne5]

I have successfully removed a couple without rounding them, but they were the exception. Most round off. It is what it is. I have the Irwin set mentioned above, and that's what I've used to remove them when the heads round off.

 

[maxdustington]

Knipex Cobras or Vice Grips, hammer a slightly smaller SAE/metric socket on it, turbo sockets. You could also heat it with a propane torch.

If the bolt is mangled enough for you to be concerned, hammer a socket on it and impact it off. That's what I would do.

As soon as something seems too tight to be cracked by hand, switch to impact. It's better to spray some oil on it, and try to impact it off than damaging the fastener with hand tools and being left with a damaged, stuck fastener.

You have snappy sockets but stumped by a stuck drain plug? Those sockets must be well polished!

 

[JeffKeryk]

Just so you know, I tried a long Matco 1/2" breaker with an adapter to a 15mm Snap-On 3/8" impact socket.
1st I tried the standard socket....
With Antonio (beefy strong man, bet he benches 350 # easy) pressing up on the back of the breaker bar and me pulling on the bar.

Slipped right off.
GM made the heads shallow and the metal is chintzy.
Ordered another off Amazon, will torque it to 15 lb/ft.

First gotta get that mutha off.
Will get it in the garage, lift it up and get the impact.
I wanna hammer on a socket, but don't wanna damage the pan.

Man, my old Tundra is easy-peasey in comparison.

Thanks for the replies.

 

[fcjeep]

Originally Posted by JamesBond
Since it's not your vehicle and you don't want to be stuck fixing it if it goes south, I might just use a fluid extractor or the cheap orange fluid transfer pump from HF.


+1

Yep. No good deed goes unpunished.
I'd use an extractor/fluid pump.

 

[JamesBond]

Using an an adapter, breaker bar and two people seems like the perfect way to round off a low profile bolt like that. The distance this set-up sticks out from the fastener would make it too easy to slip off. I'd prefer a 6 point box wrench and hit it with a hammer, actually, no, I'd just use a fluid extractor.

 

[clinebarger]

A oil drain plug for the same truck makes a better replacement when you get the old one out. I use a air hammer with a chisel bit to remove stuck ones.

The oil drain plug trick only works on 4L60E's, 4L80E's have a larger O/D nut welded in the pan & it will leak,

 

[cpayne5]

Originally Posted by clinebarger
A oil drain plug for the same truck makes a better replacement when you get the old one out. I use a air hammer with a chisel bit to remove stuck ones.

The oil drain plug trick only works on 4L60E's, 4L80E's have a larger O/D nut welded in the pan & it will leak,


Good tip on the oil drain plug. I discovered last time I did this that it was the same thread, and figured it would work, but the trans plug was already on its way. All the parts stores keep the oil plugs in stock, but not the trans plugs.

Your air chisel comment reminded me that I've used a hand chisel to get these loose, too.

 

[JeffKeryk]

Not sure if I mentioned it, but the bolt was rounded when he got the truck.
The last guy thought it was a lug nut or something.
So half GM poor design and half over zealous wrench.
Otherwise the Snap-On long flex head and 15mm socket would have eased it out.

By the way, I inherited the tools from my older brother who was a mechanic in Santa Cruz, CA.

 

[The Critic]

Try hammering on a 9/16" socket (preferably one that you are willing to lose) and impacting it off.

 

[JeffKeryk]

Originally Posted by The Critic
Try hammering on a 9/16" socket (preferably one that you are willing to lose) and impacting it off.

Your guidance is much appreciated; you know your stuff.
I did try pushing a 9/16" on by hand, knowing it it slightly smaller than 15mm.
A nice ball peen (universal tool?) should do the trick.

 

[Rhymingmechanic]

Originally Posted by clinebarger
A oil drain plug for the same truck makes a better replacement when you get the old one out. I use a air hammer with a chisel bit to remove stuck ones.

The oil drain plug trick only works on 4L60E's, 4L80E's have a larger O/D nut welded in the pan & it will leak,


Thanks for that tip, Clinebarger. Will the factory type oil drain plug with the magnetic tip fit? I seem to remember the trans plug being a little shorter, but it's been a couple years.

OP, these came tight from the factory, and I'll bet a lot got messed up on the first try. Good luck.

 

[clinebarger]

The OE magnetic tipped one's do work.

 

[Rhymingmechanic]

That's good to know. Thanks.