I have a 2000 Impala LS that has the 3800 engine that is beginning to buck on acceleration and stall ocassionally. I just put a new fuel pump in it (sending unit quit working) along with new fuel/air filters, cleaned MAF sensor, new PCV valve and still it acts up. No check engine light on and other forums pointed the crank sensor could be the culprit. Fuel pressure regulator vacuum line has no raw fuel in it either. I thought it might be a coil pack going out but I'm not sure how to test them at home. Has anyone had this problem before? It had 228,000 miles on original pump so I thought that was it. Thanks for any tips.
2000 Impala 3800 Crank sensor going bad?
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Crank Position Sensor on my Caprice (3800 L67) was playing up recently.
Sometimes (rarely) no starts, sometimes it would stall/cut-out for no real reason, almost anywhere, but my commute it stopped at the same spot 3-4 times, about 7 or 8 minutes into the trip.
If it stalled on the highway, pouring a litre of cold water (in the passenger seat just for the occasion) would get it fired again, as it apparently cools it down or something.
Replacement part was $20 on ebay, but getting the balancer pulley off was a pain...ultimately took an old belt and made a rope brake with it to stop it spinning when a long bar was applied.
Sometimes (rarely) no starts, sometimes it would stall/cut-out for no real reason, almost anywhere, but my commute it stopped at the same spot 3-4 times, about 7 or 8 minutes into the trip.
If it stalled on the highway, pouring a litre of cold water (in the passenger seat just for the occasion) would get it fired again, as it apparently cools it down or something.
Replacement part was $20 on ebay, but getting the balancer pulley off was a pain...ultimately took an old belt and made a rope brake with it to stop it spinning when a long bar was applied.
Crank sensor failures are pretty common on 3.8s. If you can get a scanner with live data and a fast enough refresh time, you should be able to catch it in the act.
Another problem is corrosion build up between the ICM and coils, and the ICM and mounting bracket. Take them apart and inspect.
If it is the crank sensor, then you'll have to pull the crank damper off- it takes a special puller to remove it. Lisle makes a good one. I think the newer ones had a non adjustable air gap, but check and be careful, as you can snarf a sensor pretty quick if it's adjusted wrong and the reluctor ring hits the sensor.
Another problem is corrosion build up between the ICM and coils, and the ICM and mounting bracket. Take them apart and inspect.
If it is the crank sensor, then you'll have to pull the crank damper off- it takes a special puller to remove it. Lisle makes a good one. I think the newer ones had a non adjustable air gap, but check and be careful, as you can snarf a sensor pretty quick if it's adjusted wrong and the reluctor ring hits the sensor.
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