200,000 Mile Maintenance Marker

[RobbS]

I've reached 200,000 miles.
I have regular maintenance scheduled.
Am I missing anything?
-Iridium spark plugs OEM (Every 100k miles)
-PCV valve replacement (every 100k miles)
-Transmission drop and fill with Toyota fluid (every 30 k miles)
-Extended service oil change and filter from Amsoil.
All other fluids and filters have been serviced recently.
Thank you

 

[Astro14]

Just keep doing what you’re doing. I’ve owned several cars that went over 200,000. Some over 300,000.

Keep up the same interval. If you were doing spark plugs every 100,000, it’s time for plugs. If you were doing oil every 10,000, it’s time for oil. If you were doing differential fluid, say, every 60,000, well, then you got it at 180,000, and it won’t be due until 240,000.

One caveat.

Toyota says 100,000/10 years for coolant, but then it changes to every 60,000/6years after that. No idea why, but that’s the plan for the Tundra.

Congrats on keeping it running for a good life. You made it to 200,000 - next stop, 300,000 - and it will get there with your routine, if the rust, or bad drivers, don’t get it first.

 

[DCDG]

injectors..
hoses..
belts..
battery..

 

[AZjeff]

How old is the accesory belt? Hoses coming up on 20 YO.

 

[nwjones18]

I do a serpentine belt every 10yrs or 100k miles. As I approach 20yrs/200k I replace all hoses and sometimes even a radiator for good measure.. I have all OEM hoses, thermostat and a Denso radiator ready when I do the water pump on my 08 CRV.

 

[Patman]

injectors..
hoses..
belts..
battery..

Injectors are not a maintenance item. If they are still working fine don’t waste money replacing them. Wait until it’s necessary.

 

[Astro14]

Modern hoses last a remarkably long time. I’ve seen hoses on some of my Volvos go 20 years and they’re still soft and pliable. I would do those on condition, not on an arbitrary number. I would be more inclined to replace on age, not mileage.

Batteries depend on the car as well. 12-15 years on a Volvo or Mercedes, where it’s in the trunk and protected from the elements. 200,000 doesn’t magically kill a battery. If it’s good, it’s good.

Belts already have an interval. Some are 100,000, so, just like spark plugs, if it’s due, it’s due.

Injectors - great point. If they haven’t ever been cleaned, or replaced, I bet they would really benefit from sending them out to @Trav. I noticed significant performance (idle smoothness, MPG) improvements on injectors with over 100,000 miles after he has worked his magic.

https://hurstinjectorservice.com/

 

[kebabaluba]

Injectors are not a maintenance item. If they are still working fine don’t waste money replacing them. Wait until it’s necessary.

I agree. Just put some injector cleaner in the tank once in a while and don`t bother with them unless they start to act up.

 

[RobbS]

Just keep doing what you’re doing. I’ve owned several cars that went over 200,000. Some over 300,000.

Keep up the same interval. If you were doing spark plugs every 100,000, it’s time for plugs. If you were doing oil every 10,000, it’s time for oil. If you were doing differential fluid, say, every 60,000, well, then you got it at 180,000, and it won’t be due until 240,000.

One caveat.

Toyota says 100,000/10 years for coolant, but then it changes to every 60,000/6years after that. No idea why, but that’s the plan for the Tundra.

Congrats on keeping it running for a good life. You made it to 200,000 - next stop, 300,000 - and it will get there with your routine, if the rust, or bad drivers, don’t get it first.

Thank you. I had Toyota flush the coolant with correct fluid at 156k miles. It is good for quite a ride,.
I'm on top of it all, thanks for the compliment

 

[CR94]

... Toyota says 100,000/10 years for coolant, but then it changes to every 60,000/6years after that. No idea why, but that’s the plan for the Tundra.

That's very logical. They realize that truly complete changes are impractical (or at least a lot of trouble or expense), but a simple drain-&-fill gets better than 60% of the old coolant out. Therefore, changing it at intervals only 60% as long has the net result of keeping the coolant condition better at the end of the interval than going the original longer interval with factory-new coolant.