Well, so much for dino oil and orange filters causing an engine to blow up in 1000 miles!
2 years on conventional -- pics
- Thread starter Drivebelt
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What do you have against changeing at least once a year? I do not think anyone would bust you ba!!'s over a yearly oil change given the insanely low miles you seem to put on. I did read that correctly that is 2800 miles over the course of 2 years???
I had ~ 2500 km (1600 miles) in the fall of 2007 after a little over a year. I thought -- even with all city driving (and idling for winter warm-up) I just don't see a Group II+ SM based oil being in bad condition after that mileage. If that same 2500km had been run over a 3 - 4 month period, most people who do 6 month OCI's probably wouldn't have thought the oil needed to be changed.
Some people change the oil no matter what mileage at set time intervals. I don't think that is necessary if one is gauging the service conditions vs the quality of the oil one is using. I assessed the conditions and thought the oil should go quite a bit longer. Everything I've seen points to; a) oils don't break down just sitting in the crankcase b) either that or they deteriorate … very … slowly. I was thinking of changing the oil early in the year (spring), but …
… we need some entertainment here at BITOG.
No guts -- no glory!
We frequently get questions here about low mileage vehicles that have a year on the oil, and whether the oil needs to be changed. I thought, why not run the oil close to 2 years, get a UOA and take some pictures on how things are holding up.
Some people change the oil no matter what mileage at set time intervals. I don't think that is necessary if one is gauging the service conditions vs the quality of the oil one is using. I assessed the conditions and thought the oil should go quite a bit longer. Everything I've seen points to; a) oils don't break down just sitting in the crankcase b) either that or they deteriorate … very … slowly. I was thinking of changing the oil early in the year (spring), but …
… we need some entertainment here at BITOG.
We frequently get questions here about low mileage vehicles that have a year on the oil, and whether the oil needs to be changed. I thought, why not run the oil close to 2 years, get a UOA and take some pictures on how things are holding up.
Kestas
Staff member
Someone did report doing a UOA on an oil that was 2 or 3 years old in a classic car that was not driven much. Results showed that the oil was good for even longer.
Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
What do you have against changeing at least once a year?....
What do you have against his two-year OCI? Reckon the oil maybe ferments or something, eh? Perhaps the manufacturers put time-release chemicals in there that turns it into pumpkin pie at the stroke of midnight? I dunno, just seems wasteful to dump perfectly good oil the way a woman throws away good shoes.
Joe
What do you have against changeing at least once a year?....
What do you have against his two-year OCI? Reckon the oil maybe ferments or something, eh? Perhaps the manufacturers put time-release chemicals in there that turns it into pumpkin pie at the stroke of midnight? I dunno, just seems wasteful to dump perfectly good oil the way a woman throws away good shoes.
Joe
Neat the cam caps have the word Mexico on it. Is the VW 1.8 made in Mexico? BTW: The motor is nice and clean inside...
Ok drivebelt where is the UOA and TBN so we can see how the oil was doing?
The car is made in Germany (according to the VIN). The engine very well could have been made in Mexico as VW did make the Jetta there in the 1980's (shipped to Germany?). VW currently makes a City Jetta in Puebla, Mexico (a restyled Mk IV) …City Jetta. It's only available in Canada (no US versions).
Quote:
Ok drivebelt where is the UOA and TBN so we can see how the oil was doing?
Looking into a sample kit this week..
Quote:
Ok drivebelt where is the UOA and TBN so we can see how the oil was doing?
Looking into a sample kit this week..
What's that noise? Nope, not the Jetta. It's a bunch of BITOGers grinding their teeth in consternation!
I hope my farm tractors do as well on their new biennial OCIs.
Anyway, nice to see something out of the ordinary. Your courage and independence does you credit, Drivebelt!
I hope my farm tractors do as well on their new biennial OCIs.
Anyway, nice to see something out of the ordinary. Your courage and independence does you credit, Drivebelt!
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Funny the fact that probably the most hated brand of car on here, run on "yucky old dino" ends up with one of the cleanest engines
Now I feel like I'll be wasting the Mobil1 extended performance 5W30 I was just given with an accompanying M1 #M104 filter for my 2008 Hyundai Accent. The neighbor next door gave it to me like a "housewarming" gift cause they knew I just gotta brand new car. He said I better get the new-car oil out of it quick. Awful stuff. And, he thinks the oil will be all full of metal shavings from break-in. Eeeesh.. My 2005 had an OCI of MobilClean5000 with 4K on it and it hadn't even started to darken when I traded it. I figure the factory oil (whatever it is) should be good for 3K anyway, right? Then Drivebelt posts pics of a 20 year old car run on dino it's whole life that looks like new..
And I should worry over the factory fill? I wonder if this oil stuff matters at all anymore, the oils are so good anymore..
And I should worry over the factory fill? I wonder if this oil stuff matters at all anymore, the oils are so good anymore..
Originally Posted By: toocrazy2yoo
Now I feel like I'll be wasting the Mobil1 extended performance 5W30 I was just given with an accompanying M1 #M104 filter for my 2008 Hyundai Accent. The neighbor next door gave it to me like a "housewarming" gift cause they knew I just gotta brand new car. He said I better get the new-car oil out of it quick. Awful stuff. And, he thinks the oil will be all full of metal shavings from break-in. Eeeesh.. My 2005 had an OCI of MobilClean5000 with 4K on it and it hadn't even started to darken when I traded it. I figure the factory oil (whatever it is) should be good for 3K anyway, right? Then Drivebelt posts pics of a 20 year old car run on dino it's whole life that looks like new..
And I should worry over the factory fill? I wonder if this oil stuff matters at all anymore, the oils are so good anymore..
Just got a Hyundai Elantra and the factory oil seems thin, it was burning up and every time I checked the oil it was going down slightly.
I changed it out at 500 miles and put in PP 5W-30 and then drove it to Fl. on vacation it went 1600 miles and did not burn a drop of oil.
I love my Hyundai .
Now I feel like I'll be wasting the Mobil1 extended performance 5W30 I was just given with an accompanying M1 #M104 filter for my 2008 Hyundai Accent. The neighbor next door gave it to me like a "housewarming" gift cause they knew I just gotta brand new car. He said I better get the new-car oil out of it quick. Awful stuff. And, he thinks the oil will be all full of metal shavings from break-in. Eeeesh.. My 2005 had an OCI of MobilClean5000 with 4K on it and it hadn't even started to darken when I traded it. I figure the factory oil (whatever it is) should be good for 3K anyway, right? Then Drivebelt posts pics of a 20 year old car run on dino it's whole life that looks like new..
And I should worry over the factory fill? I wonder if this oil stuff matters at all anymore, the oils are so good anymore..
Just got a Hyundai Elantra and the factory oil seems thin, it was burning up and every time I checked the oil it was going down slightly.
I changed it out at 500 miles and put in PP 5W-30 and then drove it to Fl. on vacation it went 1600 miles and did not burn a drop of oil.
I love my Hyundai .
Does yours spec 5W20 GF3 on the cap like my Accent, Bad? Odd they would spec GF3. No mention of GF4. Mine isn't burning the factory fill, it's clean and clear as can be after only a thousand miles, I'm thinking it would be a waste to change it absent a situation such as yours. I got to where I was doing 5K on dino on the 2005 and 7500 on syn, and that car was clean as a whistle when I got rid of it. I figure they fill it at the factory with ultra-cheapo dino, but who knows? But it's hard to say it matters looking at the pics at the top of this thread, eh?
It is surprisingly clean, almost too clean for short trips over two year OCI.
Actually I worry more about residue in the pan from extended drains, not so much top end.
Please pull the pan !
Actually I worry more about residue in the pan from extended drains, not so much top end.
Please pull the pan !
Originally Posted By: Fuzz1
awesome stuff !!!!
My dad owned a VW Golf 3 GTi 2.0 8 valve (2E) and we did 7500km OCI's on 20w50 Shell Helix Dino. At 350 000km on a dyno it still still produced 100% of its spec BHP. Engine was never opened and it consumed minimal oil.
It took a bus running into it to stop it from driving
FUZZY old son, how is Cape Town and your Opel doing? Bryce from Johannesburg here...ex OPC Club
awesome stuff !!!!
My dad owned a VW Golf 3 GTi 2.0 8 valve (2E) and we did 7500km OCI's on 20w50 Shell Helix Dino. At 350 000km on a dyno it still still produced 100% of its spec BHP. Engine was never opened and it consumed minimal oil.
It took a bus running into it to stop it from driving
FUZZY old son, how is Cape Town and your Opel doing? Bryce from Johannesburg here...ex OPC Club
Drivebelt,
Great pics there. Those motors take a lot of beating, your oil changes seem to be doing well.
I had a 1996 2.0 Golf 3 Gti and pounded that car all the way to 200k km, used FINA First 5w-50 (Grp 4) on 30k km OCI and it looked like yours inside before I sold it on...never added a drop between changes either...
SO much for VW being junk
Great pics there. Those motors take a lot of beating, your oil changes seem to be doing well.
I had a 1996 2.0 Golf 3 Gti and pounded that car all the way to 200k km, used FINA First 5w-50 (Grp 4) on 30k km OCI and it looked like yours inside before I sold it on...never added a drop between changes either...
SO much for VW being junk
I don't think that this proves or disproves that VWs are junk. I think it proves that simple engine designs last longer than complex designs.
Originally Posted By: Yuk
I don't think that this proves or disproves that VWs are junk. I think it proves that simple engine designs last longer than complex designs.
Hmm, can’t say I agree. At about the same time that the Golf 3 Gti came out, Opel (GM) released a comparative motor, also a 8V 2.0L, which was equally as simple, yet it was nowhere near as long lasting. Honda had the 16V VTEC and Toyota the 1.8 VVTI at the time which were far more complex and if service correctly would last just as long as the VW 8v.
In fact I would say precision, the use of superior quality components and build quality/accuracy determine longevity not simplicity.
I don't think that this proves or disproves that VWs are junk. I think it proves that simple engine designs last longer than complex designs.
Hmm, can’t say I agree. At about the same time that the Golf 3 Gti came out, Opel (GM) released a comparative motor, also a 8V 2.0L, which was equally as simple, yet it was nowhere near as long lasting. Honda had the 16V VTEC and Toyota the 1.8 VVTI at the time which were far more complex and if service correctly would last just as long as the VW 8v.
In fact I would say precision, the use of superior quality components and build quality/accuracy determine longevity not simplicity.
those are the niceist looking (used) cam lobes I've seen all year.
3 cheers for the orange can of death-I never gave up on you
3 cheers for the orange can of death-I never gave up on you
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