1kzte - any oils to specifically avoid?

[OM617YOTA]

Alrighty, new here, first post.

1996 Land Cruiser Prado, 1KZTE. 160k kms / almost 100k miles, doesn't use any oil between changes, minimal blowby. Ambient temps 15F-105F. Used for highway commuting, no towing or hard work.

I'm not too fussed about oil, will be running whatever oil meets specs and beyond that whatever is cheapest. Have run O'Reilly's house brand, Rotella, and ST, and magically the engine hasn't blown up. Next oil change will be to the Delo XSP 5w40 we all stocked up on.

So my question is kinda backwards on this one. Rather than ask which oil I should run, are there any oils I should specifically avoid even if I come across them cheap?

Thanks everyone.

(Yes I know caring about oil is down the list for the 1KZ. The entire cooling system has been serviced, and I might proactively buy a replacement head and gasket set to stick on the shelf just so I already have them when the day they're needed inevitably comes.)

 

[ripcord]

As long as they are certified for diesel and are an appropriate viscosity, choice of oil brand is not going to harm your engine. Keeping it cool and the injectors working correctly are key to keeping those motors running, though I suspect you know all about that.

 

[fantastic]

CK-4 or 5w-40 Euro oil?

 

[OM617YOTA]

CK-4 or 5w-40 Euro oil?

Not sure what you're asking, would you please clarify?

 

[fantastic]

Not sure what you're asking, would you please clarify?

I can surely clarify, But could you kindly post back what your manual states for oil specification? That way we know whether to discuss which oil.

 

[OM617YOTA]

 

[rollins.]

I would definitely avoid API FA-4 / ACEA F01 HDEO's and low ht/hs ACEA passenger-car categories. Just stick to xw-40 oils.

Also, I'd make sure the pump at the station has at least 2% FAME content ...or better yet use some proven lubricity additive in the ULSD.

As for the aftertreatment-friendlier heavy-duty and passenger car diesel oils like ACEA E8 and ACEA Cx while they need to address the same (or similar) wear requirements in their resp. categories (as strict as the OEM ones can be) as their full-SAPS cousins , one could only guess how well they'd perform in direct comparison (especially in engines of older design) .

https://www.acea.auto/files/2024-ACEA-oil-sequences-heavy-duty-engines-December-2024-Rev1.pdf

https://www.infineuminsight.com/en-gb/articles/acea-hd-sequences-released/

 

[SureshR]

Use CK4 or use Euro A3/B4 or C3 and you should be all set. Yeah don't use FA/4 types. And stick to 40 weight oils, 5w 0w 15w whatever should all be perfectly fine at the temperatures you're living in.

 

[OM617YOTA]

Thanks folks.

Oregon has a B5 mandate, no worries about fuel lubricity.

Any particular reason for avoiding thinner oils, if the manual says they're fine? Planned on staying with Xw40, personal flavor preference. Gave some thought to running 5w30 so I could run one oil in all four of our vehicles. Would install an oil pressure gauge first vs. just the idiot light that's there now.

If low SAPS is a problem then Delo XSP may be a poor choice. I know the manufacturer doesn't just remove the old stuff and not replace it with something else that's supposed to be at least as good. Maybe I'll be the guinea pig there, had planned on running two OCIs and getting a UOA at the end of the second OCI.

 

[SureshR]

This is an old fashioned engine but needs a relatively thick oil and one with a good slug of esters in it to protect your seals and gaskets. Tractor supply or other dollar store HDEO will do just fine.